Ordered 295/70r17 cooper discoverer stt pro

Something that nobody brought up is that the spacers you're considering cost as much or more than the $150 restocking fee for the wheels, when you could just get wheels with the proper backspacing.

This is not a smug statement toward you at all, but I genuinely hope that you document these mods in this thread so that others can see, once again, what all is involved with fitting 33"+ tires on a 4Runner. I look forward to seeing the final product when it's done, but like others I expect it to be a headache. :pop2:
I plan on it. I will probably update the op so if someone searching hopefully it will pop up. Like I said before when I did searches all that really popped up for me what threads about 285s and I figure a tire that was a little bit bigger wouldn't be that much different.

Also, I agree with you on the wheels, but the main issue is the wife. So like and of the FN wheels, and nothing particular about the SCS wheels either. So if I can keep her happy, spend more money, cut a new car, and keep it all safe. Then that's the key. I am working on getting her to look into other wheels though, so there is progress.
 
wait... so you drop $1k on tires that require $2k in mods to make them work and you are worried about what your wife thinks about the wheels? Sounds legit
 
Those are the exact tires I want OP, you're more than welcome to take my 285 Duratracs. 70% tread left.
Lol, sounds good. I wanted this specific tire. I was going to get these in 37s for my 2016 wrangler before it developed a "normal" engine tick. I will make them fit one way or another. I have plenty of weld gas, saw blades, cut off wheels, and off a few obligatory BFH'S. LOL
 
There is another solution. I've been itching to do - but alas my wife is not down with the idea (why do you need to waste money on your 4runner when you have another offroader you already waste money on? don't even get me started on the sailboat... - fair point).

The solution is lower control arms. Custom lower control arms that relocate the lower ball joint just 1 inch forward would solve a lot of the problems. (yeah you'd need custom uppers too!). Move that spindle forward and make clearance at the front. that would go a long way toward solving the larger tire issue.

If I ever go bigger without jumping to a SAS, my path would be lower control arms that are maybe +1.5" width, but for sure +1" forward relocation. I think even 35's would be pretty easy to clear with that setup.The rear would then require a relocate aft by maybe 1 inch as well extending the wheel base by 2 inches. The rear of the rear fenders is also much easier to open up.
 
Lol, sounds good. I wanted this specific tire. I was going to get these in 37s for my 2016 wrangler before it developed a "normal" engine tick. I will make them fit one way or another. I have plenty of weld gas, saw blades, cut off wheels, and off a few obligatory BFH'S. LOL

Yeah, I hear ya. Good luck.

I know @apex_overland has them on his rig. They look absolutely awesome in person on a 5th gen.
 
Just so I understand, adjustable UCAs actually allow more caster by moving the "top" of the wheel backward, correct?

Thanks!

Caster(and Camber) is dialed in at the cam-centric bolts which are located at the junction of the Lower Control Arm and the frame. Dialing in more positive caster moves the entire hub/wheel/tire assembly forward in the wheel well. If it helps you visualize, imagine the uniball or balljoint at the UCA is stationary, then adjust the Lowers for positive caster: The spindle between the upper and lower joints will have a slight incline towards the rear of the vehicle. Negative caster would cause the spindle to inclide towards the front of the vehicle, which would move the wheel rearward in the wheel well.
Through their design(typically some amount of positive caster angle built in), aftermarket Upper Control Arms allow for more forward movement before you run out of adjustability at the cams, while also serving to keep geometry within safe alignment limits after you've installed a lift.

Check out THIS link.
 
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No just trying to avoid changing wheels. My wife really likes them and that's the only thing I have working for me when it comes to her. So.....just trying. I know it will have it have more scrub, but I was wondering more if it will make it unsafe.

I understand correct wheels are the best option. And if it comes to it I will go that route.

Mind sharing which wheels? Honestly curious. There's a number of us here that came from jeeps, you'll figure it out soon enough. I personally think there's a lot more to know when building up jeep suspension than the Toyota's ifs. You just happened to jump into a tire size that requires more work than your "standard" 33.

Also, check these guys out they may be able to make you custom spacers that will get you close to the ideal offset.

Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Rings, and much more! | Motorsport Tech
 
Just checked, they have a 0.75" and 1.0" option as part of their regular stock. You may have to trim the factory lugs depending on how the inside of your wheels are formed, that or swap out the factory lugs for shorter shorter ones. Either way it could bring your offset into a more desirable range.
 
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Caster(and Camber) is dialed in at the cam-centric bolts which are located at the junction of the Lower Control Arm and the frame. Dialing in more positive caster moves the entire hub/wheel/tire assembly forward in the wheel well. If it helps you visualize, imagine the uniball or balljoint at the UCA is stationary, then adjust the Lowers for positive caster: The spindle between the upper and lower joints will have a slight incline towards the rear of the vehicle. Negative caster would cause the spindle to inclide towards the front of the vehicle, which would move the wheel rearward in the wheel well.
Through their design(typically some amount of positive caster angle built in), aftermarket Upper Control Arms allow for more forward movement before you run out of adjustability at the cams, while also serving to keep geometry within safe alignment limits after you've installed a lift.

Check out THIS link.
Thanks! I definitely understand how the LCAs move to adjust camber and caster. However, it does now make sense that if adjustable UCAs allow the top of the hub assembly to be pulled toward the vehicle's centerline, the LCAs could be adjusted for more caster without ending up with negative camber.
 
What about gearing with that tire size? I've been wheeling broncos for awhile and when I moved from a 30" tire to a 33", a gearing change was in order.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
What about gearing with that tire size? I've been wheeling broncos for awhile and when I moved from a 30" tire to a 33", a gearing change was in order.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

From what I've read, 295 is near the upper limit for the stock gears. OP can probably do it if he wants but it wouldn't be a requirement.
 
Mind sharing which wheels? Honestly curious. There's a number of us here that came from jeeps, you'll figure it out soon enough. I personally think there's a lot more to know when building up jeep suspension than the Toyota's ifs. You just happened to jump into a tire size that requires more work than your "standard" 33.

Also, check these guys out they may be able to make you custom spacers that will get you close to the ideal offset.

Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Rings, and much more! | Motorsport Tech
That's awesome. Thanks for the lead. I found one place yesterday that makes a 1 inch spacer made in USA with lifetime warranty. But the place you suggested has steel and aluminum spacers.

The wheels are a trd replica. We both really liked that wheel. But as we know they only come in 7 inch wide. I know it's not the end of the world to run a wide tire on a wheel like that, but considering clearances I wanted to keep the tire shorter. The wheels are currently on Craigslist, so if they sell before I can actually work it then I can change the wheel. I also called Total Chaos yesterday and told them about my wheel and tire combo. They said they have never ran that setup. Then said when they have uca rubbing issues, they run 1.25 inch spacers with no issues. So, I may just get 1 tire mounted and play with it on jack stands.

I should note also, the reason we didn't like the fn fx pro wheel was the flat center cap. They just look a little off or unfinished. We do like the scs stealth 6 and ae alloys 115. The ae alloy 115 come in 8.5" wide and 4.45" of back space. But really prefer the trd look.
 
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From what I've read, 295 is near the upper limit for the stock gears. OP can probably do it if he wants but it wouldn't be a requirement.
Exactly the conclusion I came to. The main concern I had was off the line. I think it will be just fine at freeway speeds. But most likely keep it stock gears for a while if I do want to change them.
 

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