Panhard bar question

[jkeith.w]

Looks good.
I'll get you that measurement as soon as it lets up raining for a bit.

3 1/2 if you takeout the 1/4 from the top of the bolt head to the middle of the hole.

Thanks!

Looks like that is a 2.5" drop, possibly angled to the right side?

 

[MarkamisPrime]

Well it's straight but it follows the stock angle of the mount witch pulled my axle a little to the right but is ok for flex and clearance
Ima get an adjustable trac bar to correct that though
I could have installed it to be straight vertical but then the gap to fill with weld would have been huge.
So that's why I installed it the way I did.

 

[jkeith.w]

good data, thanks!

 

[73Duster440]

Interested in the drop bracket as well. Will keep watching for the end result

 

[Snowden]

Pdb

[MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] -- Sorry for my questions this isn't quite clear to me. What are the middle set of holes for, I see metal behind them? Also, since your design seems to angle straight down as opposed to the commercial one that follows the angle right contour of the factory piece, does yours help take out some of the shift right of the axle? Is that the intention?

 

[jkeith.w]

[MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] -- Sorry for my questions this isn't quite clear to me. What are the middle set of holes for, I see metal behind them?

The middle holes are the one inch drop to compensate for a 3 inch lift, the lower holes are a two inch drop for 4 inch lift, used in conjunction with the PLB.

So, my thinking is: worst case scenario is a 4 inch lift situation, where you will now have raised the axle end of the panhard by 2 inches, and lowered the frame mount by two inches, and maintained the roll center while correcting everything else. Correspondingly, as the height of the lift decreases, the roll center benefit increases. You guys agree?

There will be minor clearancing of the factory bracket at the one inch holes (a few millimeters of metal - the photo is misleading.)

All 3 sets of holes should still be usable with the bracket installed.

Also, since your design seems to angle straight down as opposed to the commercial one that follows the angle right contour of the factory piece, does yours help take out some of the shift right of the axle? Is that the intention?

Yes, straight down to center the axle.

I'm not sure why the commercial one would angle at all, using a drop should allow the axle to properly center using the stock panhard bar - so the holes should be in vertical alignment with the factory hole, to my thinking.

Perhaps the commercial drop is attempting to move the driveshaft away from the tank? - but that shouldn't be an issue if the panhard is horizontal at rest and is stock length...?

:shrug:



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[jkeith.w]

So the second try is better, but needs work.

I'm already on revision 3; it definitely needs to locate off of the factory holes on both sides to self-align. I'm hoping to make it completely self-aligning like the PLB, but may require a degree-finder to dial it in.

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[Tyler James Inc]

Holy smokes Keith; that upper bracket is GORGEOUS! I can't wait till I can give you more of my money.
10x more appealing and thought out than what's currently available.
Thank you.


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[jkeith.w]

I'm also thinking about upping the wall thickness from .120" (which is what the factory frame mount is) to 3/16" like the PLB; this will allow me to delete the flanges at the bar slot area (which will make it far easier to manufacture, and keep costs down.)

Thoughts?


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[Snowden]

I'm also thinking about upping the wall thickness from .120" (which is what the factory frame mount is) to 3/16" like the PLB; this will allow me to delete the flanges at the bar slot area (which will make it far easier to manufacture, and keep costs down.)
Thoughts?
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As long as you think you can be sure on the math but the flanges do appear to add 'sensible' strength.

You mentioned in earlier post that the factory section will need some clearancing for the bar mounted at the 1" hole can you elaborate please on how much grinding you are thinking? The welder in my area is a most impatient and cranky sort but he's all I have here...

And +1 to what [MENTION=116470]Tyler James Inc[/MENTION] said. That piece looks amazing Keith. Nice work Sir.

 

[jkeith.w]

As long as you think you can be sure on the math but the flanges do appear to add 'sensible' strength.

I'd prefer flanges turned inward like the factory mount, but I don't think that is feasible for a single bent piece of steel. I'll check with my manufacturer, but I doubt it.

Flanges turned outward concern me because of possible interference with the parking brake cable guide on the axle..

Otherwise, I'm with you, flanges are sensible!

You mentioned in earlier post that the factory section will need some clearancing for the bar mounted at the 1" hole can you elaborate please on how much grinding you are thinking?

I'll get a photo of this tomorrow- it's likely just a sliver; easy Dremel or drill bit work.


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[CalBlackSheep]

Would it be worth it or even possible to extend the top of the bracket and add a second set of holes above the mounting bolt? That way we can drill through the frame allowing for two mounting bolts. I'm thinking this would help us who don't have access to a welder. But not sure how it would effect the integrity or if it's even possible to get a drill up there.

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[jkeith.w]

[MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION], if it's possible could you add me to the list? I just want to order one (1) lift bracket.

still need to get an email address and shipping address from you hawaiianeyz - PM me when you get a chance.

 

[jkeith.w]

Would it be worth it or even possible to extend the top of the bracket and add a second set of holes above the mounting bolt? That way we can drill through the frame allowing for two mounting bolts. I'm thinking this would help us who don't have access to a welder. But not sure how it would effect the integrity or if it's even possible to get a drill up there.

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I'd be very concerned about the two mounting bolts wallowing out their holes; plus you almost have to weld in tubes to be able to tighten them down without crushing the factory mount, I'd think..


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[jkeith.w]

Revision 4 gets my blessing :thumbsup: , let's see if I can get them manufactured as-drawn before I delete the flanges and increase the plate thickness:

Tasty.


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[MarkamisPrime]

Damn that looks sweet

 

[jkeith.w]

Here's the photo of the required clearancing of the factory mount (see middle hole):

Still need a bit of adjustment on my hole positioning, but very close now.


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[Renton4runner]

Keith,

Will this be usable without an adjustable panhard bar? I have ~4-4.5 inches of lift, and was originally planning on going with my existing stock panhard, your lift bracket, and the drop bracket from Toytec. Now that you have drawn up plans for the drop bracket, I am intrigued, but I was wondering if there was any possible issues with fitment if I didn't have an adjustable panhard. I know the Toytec drop bracket can be adjusted slightly when you weld it in, where as this looks like it has a fixed position for the mount.

Thanks,
Jesse

 

[JayRolla]

Keith,

Will this be usable without an adjustable panhard bar? I have ~4-4.5 inches of lift, and was originally planning on going with my existing stock panhard, your lift bracket, and the drop bracket from Toytec. Now that you have drawn up plans for the drop bracket, I am intrigued, but I was wondering if there was any possible issues with fitment if I didn't have an adjustable panhard. I know the Toytec drop bracket can be adjusted slightly when you weld it in, where as this looks like it has a fixed position for the mount.

Thanks,
Jesse

The panhard adjustment is precision work and needs an alignment machine to get it perfect. His drop and raise brackets will help position the panhard bar level for less body roll but to get it perfect a adjustable bar would be needed. I was almost .75" of center and now with my panhard aligned with just the adjustable bar it tracks perfect with zero sway or body roll.

 

[jkeith.w]

Here's how I think about it:

Since we are raising and lowering the panhard bar directly vertical to the factory mounts (up two inches on the bottom for a 2" lift, plus down one inch from the top for 3", or down two inches for 4") everything should be as-stock for 2", 3", and 4" lifts in respect to both the angle of the panhard bar (horizontal) and the designed length of the bar (stock.)

With this kit, where an adjustable bar might be beneficial is at lift heights between 2" and 3", 3" and 4", etc. - and the largest advantage would be directly at the 1/2" height between them.
How advantageous? I'd need to do cad on that to determine how far to the right the axle is positioned at a 1/2" lift; but that would be the most the axle centering would be impacted with this setup.
(I personally wouldn't invest in an adjustable bar if I were only lifting my truck 1/2 inch, fwiw)

So, yes - if I were in your situation, I'd give it a go with the stock bar, absolutely. This is one of the design motivations, in fact - to largely eliminate the need for an adjustable panhard bar in most scenarios.


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