Panhard bar question

[Tyler James Inc]

Well , it was dead on before welding , I didn't check after though . I jacked up one side of the 4Runner until the outer passenger frame was level and matched up the bracket . If there is one thing I can do after 20 plus years as a carpenter it's read a level .:hello:

[emoji23]
Wouldn't be the first bet I lost.
I like your solution to the 3" position hole, nice work [emoji1360]

 

[Snowden]

After the install...

[MENTION=116470]Tyler James Inc[/MENTION]
[MENTION=102573]hounddogman[/MENTION]

have you guys had a chance to measure the axle? Are you squared up again and what is the net result on the driveshaft position?

 

[Tyler James Inc]

[MENTION=116470]Tyler James Inc[/MENTION]
[MENTION=102573]hounddogman[/MENTION]



have you guys had a chance to measure the axle? Are you squared up again and what is the net result on the driveshaft position?

I'm under the impression my axle is centered when on level ground, sitting on all 4 tires. I haven't measured, but the panhard lined up perfectly- at the 4" position- without forcing it either way. It also sits 100% parallel to the ground/axle. I was trying to find some place to flex on this weekend, but no luck. My shocks bump out before my bump stops or tires rub, so I need to fix that before anything else really anyway.

Edit to clarify-
The assumption that the axle is centered "on level ground on all 4 tires" was without the PH on.

 

[hounddogman]

I forgot to measure if the axle was centered before pulling out of the shop last night but I did sight down both sides and it looked very close . Before it was obviously off center . My panhard bar is 1/4" off from being level . Unfortunately the drive shaft can still hit the gas tank skid but it hits farther back now . Part of this is probably because I haven't lowered the bump stops yet and I'm running Tundra 5100 shocks , they are a lot shorter then LC shocks and allow a lot of up travel .

 

[jkeith.w]

the drive shaft can still hit the gas tank skid but it hits farther back now . Part of this is probably because I haven't lowered the bump stops yet and I'm running Tundra 5100 shocks , they are a lot shorter then LC shocks and allow a lot of up travel . View attachment 233767

 

[JayRolla]

I forgot to measure if the axle was centered before pulling out of the shop last night but I did sight down both sides and it looked very close . Before it was obviously off center . My panhard bar is 1/4" off from being level . Unfortunately the drive shaft can still hit the gas tank skid but it hits farther back now . Part of this is probably because I haven't lowered the bump stops yet and I'm running Tundra 5100 shocks , they are a lot shorter then LC shocks and allow a lot of up travel . View attachment 233767

View attachment 233768

Got a shot of the left rear tire fully stuffed of the bracket to see how much clearance you have between frame and bracket?

 

[hounddogman]

Up travel is good though!

I see the previously trimmed area of the skid; how much further back is the contact now?

Yeah , I do like the up travel just not went I start hearing that clankty-clank sound . Here's a little better angle . Originally the yoke was what hit and now it's the flange . It really only hits the corner of the skid .

 

[hounddogman]

Got a shot of the left rear tire fully stuffed of the bracket to see how much clearance you have between frame and bracket?

I might have a little more uptravel but I stopped when I heard the drive shaft hit .


P.S Sorry guys I'm trying to figure out how to resize the pictures on my newish computer .

 

[poopypants]

Just got mine welded up today... Still haven't got my tube bumper swapped over from my rolled truck, so with just a stock spare I'm still at 4.5"-5" and even with 4"of pan hard correction, I'm still not completely level... But the difference in ride, going over bumps, is a world of difference. No more tail wag and don't feel as tippy around corners now!

 

[hounddogman]

Looks Good . All these nice clear pictures make me want to get my camera out and charged up .

 

[Tyler James Inc]

No more tail wag and don't feel as tippy around corners now!

Tail wag...excellent description of the feeling! That's how mine felt without a PH- yours felt that way with one(before being corrected, obviously)?

Looks Good . All these nice clear pictures make me want to get my camera out and charged up .

Why'd you have to go and say that?! Now I gotta bust out the real pictures. My apologies in advanced for any bad photography. I shoot in manual, it was dark, I'm a noob, I was half lit, didn't wanna get the camera dirty, had to manual focus some shots, lighting was only from a flashlight, did I mention it was dark?...is that enough excuses? [emoji23]

This pic shows one of the edges I trimmed- 1/16" or so- before I trimmed it-

 

[fourfive]

What measuring points are you guys using to determine if the rear axle is centered? Upto this point I've just approximated with a tape measure how the rear tires line up with my fender but wondering if there's a more objective way of doing it?

 

[JayRolla]

What measuring points are you guys using to determine if the rear axle is centered? Upto this point I've just approximated with a tape measure how the rear tires line up with my fender but wondering if there's a more objective way of doing it?

Good question. I tried to center mine with my adjustable Panhard and was off .4" when I got aligned.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

In theory- if your tires are inflated equally- using a straight edge on the sidewallls, and measuring to your quarter panel or flare should be pretty darn accurate, yeah? I think it would work best if you overinflated the tires to- say- 50-55PSI? You would have to be on completely level ground for this method to work. Or, at least make sure the axle is parallel to the frame/body. Any articulation would throw it off fast.
No matter what method, the axle has to be parallel to the frame/body.
A second way I would try would be to take cross-measurements. Like, from the driver bump stop pad to the passenger lower shock mount, or somewhere.
Third, simply from each inner sidewall to the outside of the frame or bump stop...

 

[hounddogman]

Centering the axle

Ok, I did not do this on the 4Runner because I don't have anything that's adjustable but a couple of years ago I put a lift on the wife's jeep GC that had adjustable control arms and track bar and new tie rod and drag link . Everything on the front end ( solid front axle ) was new and completely out of whack . I took the wheels off and with jack stands under the axle so it sat level and I clamped a strait edge to the rotor or hub face . I did it horizontally to set the toe in and vertically to center the axle measuring to the same spot on a fender . The GC is a unibody so on the 4Runner I would measure to the frame . After I did my home alignment I took it to a shop for a free alignment check and asked them to make sure the axle was centered and it was spot on .

 

[fourfive]

Good question. I tried to center mine with my adjustable Panhard and was off .4" when I got aligned.

I had to adjust my panhard about 1/8" shorter than SS recomendation for a 3" lift in order to get the axle visually centered using the tire and fender flare as reference points. Think I have it pretty close but always wondered if there was a method similar to using center hub to fender for measuring ride height.

 

[fourfive]

...take cross-measurements. Like, from the driver bump stop pad to the passenger lower shock mount, or somewhere.
Third, simply from each inner sidewall to the outside of the frame or bump stop...

I'll have to try those and see how they compare to the tire-fender flare measurements.

 

[jkeith.w]

I had to adjust my panhard about 1/8" shorter than SS recomendation for a 3" lift in order to get the axle visually centered using the tire and fender flare as reference points. Think I have it pretty close but always wondered if there was a method similar to using center hub to fender for measuring ride height.

Would knowing the stock panhard length be helpful? I can go measure my spare for you.

Alternatively; if you know the delta between a level floor surface and each of the panhard bolts, Incould figure up the additional length needed over the stock bar length to position like a perfectly stock bar would..

Let me know, happy to work it up if that's helpful.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JayRolla]

I had to adjust my panhard about 1/8" shorter than SS recomendation for a 3" lift in order to get the axle visually centered using the tire and fender flare as reference points. Think I have it pretty close but always wondered if there was a method similar to using center hub to fender for measuring ride height.

I had to change mine also for my 3.5" lift. Still was off till I had the alignment shop adjust my rear to front.

 

[fourfive]

I had to change mine also for my 3.5" lift. Still was off till I had the alignment shop adjust my rear to front.

Are there measurements on the alignment sheet that confirm a centered rear axle?