Panhard bar question

[Tyler James Inc]

Hahahaha yeah, that makes about 500 percent more sense [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION]. I'm positive that's how he meant it. My brain works sometimes

I mostly agree with [MENTION=136095]poopypants[/MENTION] that it's fine to not be able to have fine-tuned adjustability. The only thing that would be nice for is if your axle wasn't centered while sitting there- then you could use the PH to pull/push it to center. But if that's the case, there's probably something not right that's causing it to be off-center, and that should be fixed before anything else.
At least, that's how I see it. I could very well be missing something.

 

[poopypants]

I think you're inadvertently proving my point: looking at the minuscule length changes needed to recenter the axle (see my drawing) - using repositioning as motivation for an adjustable panhard but then creating one without opposing threads for fine adjustment is nonsensical.

(And tie rods and almost all suspension links have opposite threaded ends specifically for exact adjustment, as I said.)


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Yes, we are in agreement that opposing threads allow for fine tune adjustability and if that's what you want, that's what you need to truly achieve it...

I don't agree that it's necessary for a panhard though in the first place and centering is hardly MY reason for pan hard correction, beyond "roughly there".

I don't think a mm off center at ride height(can't seeing it being any more than that with a half turn) is going to make a meaningful difference, negating the absolute need for opposing threads... Especially considering the accentuated travel path a panhard can travel in its cycle top-bottom anyways(especially ones not level to begin with/extended)


Now, to go big devils advocate on you here, I'll pose a reason why it's GOOD to stay away from opposing threads(something you know, but mentioning anyways)... If on opposing threads panhard bar, the jamb/lock nuts are loose, vibrations can cause the bar to run and extend/shrink and cause handling issues that start to show well beyond a 1mm difference.... With identical thread directions, the bar can run, BUT it will only shift left/right on the threads, stopped at the end of the threads/eye, never changing the length of the bar or cause handling issues...


Doubt they actually consider this in their choice, and probably just make both ends the same thread pattern due to cost efficiency.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

There is actually a PH bar made that has both ends threaded with RH threads? I figured only one side was threaded. If both are threaded, I definitely think they should be RH & LH.

 

[jkeith.w]

Yes, we are in agreement that opposing threads allow for fine tune adjustability and if that's what you want, that's what you need to truly achieve it...



I don't agree that it's necessary for a panhard though in the first place and centering is hardly MY reason for pan hard correction, beyond "roughly there".

We're pretty much in agreement about adjustable panhard bars, actually.

You say 'why bother with precise adjustment?', I say 'why bother with adjustment at all?'





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[jkeith.w]

There is actually a PH bar made that has both ends threaded with RH threads?

Yep.




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[Tyler James Inc]

Yeah, [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] that's just silly. As far as the growing/shrinking devils-advocate argument-
If both jam nuts became loose on a RH/RH bar, in order for the bar not to fall out(as poopy said it would only thread itself down the rod ends), they would have to be 100% identically engaged. By that, I mean if one RE is "in" further than the other- and the bar threads itself away from the lesser-engaged RE- the bar would fall out. So maybe not so harmless. In fact, it would be much harder for the bar to thread itself in either direction if the RE's were RH/LH, because it would have to push/pull the axle with it...

 

[Snowden]

Any one else mounted up their brackets yet?

I have not had a chance to find a welder to hook me up with getting these brackets mounted yet. Any one else get their brackets on recently?

I was hoping to see a before and after picture of the angle of the drive shaft as it comes into the pumpkin. Was hoping to see just how much closer the Uni is to the FT Skid after the lift and/or drop bracket was in.

Here's an interesting question; at stock height, is the drive shaft completely perpendicular to the axle to begin with do we know?

 

[Tyler James Inc]

[MENTION=133775]Snowden[/MENTION] I might be thinking about it wrong, but it seems like we could figure that out fairly easily. The Drive Shaft is going to be closest to the skid when the PH is parallel, right? Or, at least, you know the DS is going to be the furthest driver when the PH is parallel. If you have a flat spot to park your rig on, you could measure from the ground to where the DS hits the skid, and then from the ground to your PH frame mount. That way, you could see at what point your PH will be parallel, and where that point is in reference to your skid. Of course, you would have to take into account the brackets on both ends, as well as use your DS distance from ground for your equation.

 

[mountain mike]

Had mine burned on by my local fabricator. He put in some tubing on the lift side to strength it up where the factory mount it. I didn't get a good pic, but will try to get a better one later.
FWIW, the 4unner handles A LOT better. I used to take a corner and the VSC would start beeping on me a lot. Since I have had this installed it has only beeped once or twice and only when I was getting a little aggressive.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Looks good [MENTION=108156]mountain mike[/MENTION]
I'm wondering how raising the frame-side mount would affect my RC. Now that we see how little it pushes the axle over, maybe having the PH 1" off-level would be worth the RC gained. My rig is VERY stable though, so I'm not sure that I even care to try to raise it(RC).

 

[AssBurns]

Looks good [MENTION=108156]mountain mike[/MENTION]
I'm wondering how raising the frame-side mount would affect my RC. Now that we see how little it pushes the axle over, maybe having the PH 1" off-level would be worth the RC gained. My rig is VERY stable though, so I'm not sure that I even care to try to raise it(RC).

Do it and let us know how it feels and handles. I've been debating on doing a small drop on the frame side again to get the PH bar a little more level, but have been too lazy to actually do it.


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[jkeith.w]

Do it and let us know how it feels and handles. I've been debating on doing a small drop on the frame side again to get the PH bar a little more level, but have been too lazy to actually do it.


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I know someone who can supply such a thing if you need it ...




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[AssBurns]

I know someone who can supply such a thing if you need it ...




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Unfortunately what you supply won't directly fit for me. I originally did a drop bracket when I initially did my lift but decided to cut it off so now the frame side bracket has some 3/16" plate welded all around it. I'd like to see what lowering it about an inch would feel like but just been lazy to test it out.


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[poopypants]

Had mine burned on by my local fabricator. He put in some tubing on the lift side to strength it up where the factory mount it. I didn't get a good pic, but will try to get a better one later.
FWIW, the 4unner handles A LOT better. I used to take a corner and the VSC would start beeping on me a lot. Since I have had this installed it has only beeped once or twice and only when I was getting a little aggressive.

[MENTION=108156]mountain mike[/MENTION]

What diff armor is that you have there?

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Looks like a BudBuilt [MENTION=136095]poopypants[/MENTION]
http://budbuilt-com.3dcartstores.com/96-02-4Runner-Diff-Skid_p_95.html

 

[mountain mike]

[MENTION=108156]mountain mike[/MENTION]

What diff armor is that you have there?

Looks like a BudBuilt [MENTION=136095]poopypants[/MENTION]
96-02 4Runner Diff Skid

Yep, it's Budbuilt. Fits great..

 

[poopypants]

Yep, it's Budbuilt. Fits great..

I had a guy sell me mine, claiming it was budbuilt... But when I got there to pick it up, it was def home made... But it was sturdy and offered great coverage over the bottom/e locker actuator and even extends fwd, just under the yoke and u joint... So I still snagged it right up.

How far fwd does the bud built actually cover?

 

[mountain mike]

How far fwd does the bud built actually cover?

It goes up pretty far. I think it goes to the u-joint as well. I'll see if I can snap a picture of it when I get home later.

 

[jkeith.w]

FWIW, the 4unner handles A LOT better. I used to take a corner and the VSC would start beeping on me a lot. Since I have had this installed it has only beeped once or twice and only when I was getting a little aggressive.

Liked this so much I had to repost it.

Looks terrific!

 

[mountain mike]

Big THANK YOU to [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION]. My fabricator really liked the kit. He said it fit very well and went on without issue. The only thing he wanted to add is a little tubing where the factory mount was on the lift side to give it a little extra strength. I tried to get a pic of it but it didn't turn out very well. I only wish a had a before pic to show the previous angle of the panhard.