Panhard bar question

I have a completely stock panhard bar with the OEM bushings. I have not had the bushings limit my flex at all. Like [MENTION=136095]poopypants[/MENTION] said. Stock bushings are pretty soft, so they will flex out plenty. The problem is they tear easy and crack easier than poly. Also the panhard bar doesn’t twist like the control arm links do, so there is little torsional stress on the panhard bushings.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yes that will cause them to bind up your right.

But if you have 7 wraps or larger at full articulation the panhard can hold up 1-1.5" of articulation due to the bushings binding. SS has tested this and proven it. I also saw a 4th gen member stating the panhard polys gained 1.5" articulation.

Once you get everything poly out back it all moves freely. Even enlarging the eye bolt hole for the upper rear shock when running LC tokicos will let you gain some articulation.
lol... Where in the world did you get such exact numbers as that? And how can they be proven reproducible?

I'd take everything SS says with a grain of salt... Remember, he's the one who said these panhard brackets were useless and the only correct way to fix the panhard issue was his extended panhard bar...

Now he's trying to sell poly bushing, that no doubt he supplies.

His Sonoran steel 1.2 lift is marked up about $500 over that it would cost for you to source the parts(plus more) yourself.

Dudes in the business of making money and selling parts, not real world research and application.

The only thing binding the panhard are the other links themselves reaching a horizontal binding point, not the bushing.
 
lol... Where in the world did you get such exact numbers as that? And how can they be proven reproducible?

I'd take everything SS says with a grain of salt... Remember, he's the one who said these panhard brackets were useless and the only correct way to fix the panhard issue was his extended panhard bar...

Now he's trying to sell poly bushing, that no doubt he supplies.

His Sonoran steel 1.2 lift is marked up about $500 over that it would cost for you to source the parts(plus more) yourself.

Dudes in the business of making money and selling parts, not real world research and application.

The only thing binding the panhard are the other links themselves reaching a horizontal binding point, not the bushing.

Ive seen when I had my rig on stands and swapping my panhard that the bushings on it was binding up. I then researched and found about the info of tightening when on the ground and not when up in the air.

At that time I found research of someone on the 4th gen 4runners getting 1.5" additional flex after swapping the panhard when they did measurements. Everything seemed to add up and make sense after reading the same info on toytec website, SS website in my driveway and on another persons rig.

Once you get everything poly on the rear UCA's, LCA's, and panhard you have bind free articulation. Everything helps once you flexing out with big coils like we are.
 
I installed my panhard correction kit from eimkeith on my 2000 4Runner. I just want to compliment him on such an excellent design. It's obviously well designed and a perfect fit, which made it easy to weld into place.



I've been saying for many years how it's theoretically best to keep the center point of the panhard bar as high as possible, so it's important to raise at least the axle end of the panhard bar. I didn't previously install a panhard correction kit because all that was available was to lower the frame end, which would flatten the angle, but would worsen the leverage of the body from the midpoint across the panhard bar. I installed both ends of the eimkeith kit and love it. I noticed a change in the ride after the first bump I went over. I wish this was available 15 years ago.



I already had the extended bump stops, so I don't have a concern about the axle end hitting when articulating.



Here's a pic.



marmot-albums-jeff++marmot+-+2000+4runner-picture47412-panhard-bar.jpg



Did anyone else notice you got rear rotors and pads??? Or it just me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Did anyone else notice you got rear rotors and pads??? Or it just me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Holy smokes... Didn't notice!

But I noticed he's rocking a set of undocumented color codes giving more than 4" of lift, considering that slight tilt even with 4" of correction...

What's the details on those coils and the rear disc setup, [MENTION=165429]marmot[/MENTION] ????
 
Holy smokes... Didn't notice!

But I noticed he's rocking a set of undocumented color codes giving more than 4" of lift, considering that slight tilt even with 4" of correction...

What's the details on those coils and the rear disc setup, [MENTION=165429]marmot[/MENTION] ????
I got the Land Cruiser springs lots of years ago from someone else who did the research on that one. I actually forgot the details about the springs. Yes, it would provide about 4" of lift, but I typically carry so much tools and spare parts and recovery gear that it ends up at 3.5" or less.

The rear disks are included in the Front Range Off-Road Fabrication (FROR) full floater conversion kit. It includes Toyota Supra disks and calipers that allow the e-brake to be kept at the wheels (where I prefer it because there are more times where it's safer that way). The full floater kit includes really nice 4340 chromoly rear axles, which is overkill for 33's. One of the primary reasons why I got the kit years ago was because I was disgusted with leaky rear axle seals. The method of sealing the axle is different so I've never had a problem with axle leaks since the conversion (and no more drum brake issues). It's also reassuring to know that I never have to worry about the possibility of seeing my rear wheel and axle pass me on the road if the semi-floater axle/bearings decide to disassemble themselves.

I also had to get a little creative with e-brake cable routing since you might notice the cable is high on the axle and out of the way of rocks.
 
Swapping out the stock panhard bushing for polys will also allow more articulation since the oem bushings bind up.
Or another possibility is what I did with my rear lower control arms with 7/8" Summit Machine Jimmy Joints (basically large heims) that are rebuildable and greasable, threaded into a 7/8" bung that's welded into a 1/4" wall 1.5"(I think?) DOM tube with a stock Toyota rubber bushing pressed in the other end. The Jimmy Joint still fits in the Toyota frame mount, although you have to drill the hole a little larger for a 5/8" bolt. The Jimmy Joint deals with most of the arm rotation, which allows the rubber joint at the axle end to primarily worry about tension and compression in that link. The only slight issue for me was I had to use medium strength threadlock on the threaded ring of the Jimmy Joint so it wouldn't unscrew itself while off-road. I re-utilized/re-built links that I had previously spec'ed for SpiderTrax to build for me back in about 2003. I chose SpiderTrax because they are a combination machine shop and off-road supplier, so they have the capability to make the perfect size ends for the rubber bushings to press into. They don't actually have a product for 4Runner links. My original attempt was years ago when I tried using plain 3/4" heims on one end. Those 3/4" heims were too small and only lasted a year at a time. If someone wants to go down the Jimmy Joint path, I could help you with what you need to spec for SpiderTrax to help build it. They wouldn't know my latest revision of the links.
 
Last edited:
I got the Land Cruiser springs lots of years ago from someone else who did the research on that one. I actually forgot the details about the springs. Yes, it would provide about 4" of lift, but I typically carry so much tools and spare parts and recovery gear that it ends up at 3.5" or less.

The rear disks are included in the Front Range Off-Road Fabrication (FROR) full floater conversion kit. It includes Toyota Supra disks and calipers that allow the e-brake to be kept at the wheels (where I prefer it because there are more times where it's safer that way). The full floater kit includes really nice 4340 chromoly rear axles, which is overkill for 33's. One of the primary reasons why I got the kit years ago was because I was disgusted with leaky rear axle seals. The method of sealing the axle is different so I've never had a problem with axle leaks since the conversion (and no more drum brake issues). It's also reassuring to know that I never have to worry about the possibility of seeing my rear wheel and axle pass me on the road if the semi-floater axle/bearings decide to disassemble themselves.

I also had to get a little creative with e-brake cable routing since you might notice the cable is high on the axle and out of the way of rocks.
That's awesome!

I did in fact notice the e brake cable... Liked it, cause I have a rear diff skid plate and had to bend mine up and out a lil n wish I could realign it...
 

Attachments

  • Comb25062017064306.jpg
    Comb25062017064306.jpg
    116.9 KB · Views: 2,487
Had my brackets installed this morning. Very happy with the results. Thanks Keith much appreciated. Question being that it seemed better in the bottom hole than it did in the middle. I netted about three and a half inches of lift and found myself between holes in theory. Look better on the lower hole so I went in that direction. May move it up once I get bumpers and other weight on the truck. My rear axle was originally offset about a quarter inch. Haven't measured yet but looks much better to the naked eye.
7bba099568b6ebbaccacc8c2898f128b.jpg
20e441e8ad622069a788df17bc5e751d.jpg
512a15ba03ad9671a841ff22fb527eee.jpg
6272733e470f3cac92fd6f470760f90b.jpg


Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
Help. Rear end sway when gas is hit.

I had a 2000 4Runner sR5. It’s 4wd and has a 3in lift. My question is. When I’m driving down the highway. If I hit the gas it feels like the rear end shifts or twists and if I let off it feels like it shifts back. Any idea what this could be? I’m new to 4runners and such.
 
I had a 2000 4Runner sR5. It’s 4wd and has a 3in lift. My question is. When I’m driving down the highway. If I hit the gas it feels like the rear end shifts or twists and if I let off it feels like it shifts back. Any idea what this could be? I’m new to 4runners and such.

Loose or worn rear control arm bushings?
 
is there a simple answer to my question?

Installing toyteck superflex coils this weekend and didn't think of the panhard bar. Is keeping it stock for a few months or longer going to be a problem?

I drive my 4runner on the street but also in the desert sand whoops etc not high speed stuff usually though.
 
is there a simple answer to my question?

Installing toyteck superflex coils this weekend and didn't think of the panhard bar. Is keeping it stock for a few months or longer going to be a problem?

I drive my 4runner on the street but also in the desert sand whoops etc not high speed stuff usually though.

Won't be an issue keeping the stock one for a while. I did when I had superflexes for 6 months. Only thing you might notice is the rear axle being slightly off center (1/4-1/2").
 
Installed PCK today

Installed the panhard correction bracket kit today. Works great!

My truck had been lifted 3 inches for the past 10 years, all the while with completely stock rear links and geometry. The brackets definitely help re-centering the rear axle and with stability.
 

Attachments

  • 1BABA838-48E9-4F1D-ADB0-780360201430.jpg
    1BABA838-48E9-4F1D-ADB0-780360201430.jpg
    124.6 KB · Views: 910
Last edited:
New here

Hello, new here jst got my 3” lift delivered tday and would like to purchase the custom frame side and axle side panhard brackets please pm me what i need to do to get a set in the mail asap


Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • 59AC907D-3DE5-441A-97A1-626293F63C4D.jpg
    59AC907D-3DE5-441A-97A1-626293F63C4D.jpg
    128 KB · Views: 651

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,070
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top