Patio's 2000 4Runner Buildup

Would you mind sharing some info on what you are using for the front extension of your cargo box to make it a sleeping platform? Do you remove the seat backs for that, or just the bottoms? I really like the way you've set up your cargo area, more than the other boxes I've seen. I'm planning to build one this summer, and I'll probably base it off of yours.

Age Of Octane,

I haven't had the front part in in a few years due to needing car seats now, but I will shoot you some pics of the part out of the vehicle. The back of the factory seats can stay in (I removed it just to have more storage room underneath the platform) but the seat bottoms that fold up towards the front needed to be remove. You could probably build it shorter in order to be able to leave the seat bottoms in but I wanted the most sleeping area possible.
 
Do you know if you need to run the spacers on the front if you have 265/75/16?

I am going to do a similar setup with secondary bypass but will move the bypass tubes if there are clearance issues.

Thanks!

4ADVTRS,

I have never test fit that size tire with the bypasses on, but I will shoot you some pics with my wheel cranked all the way so you can see how much room there is with my combination at least.
 
Hey man so how do you like the TC rear links? Are they noisey?
Worth $1250?

Bijan,

No more noisy than anything else with polyurethane on one end, just keep them greased and they aren't really noticeable. The adjustability of the panhard to re-center the axle is nice as is the extra wheel travel. The real benefit is the big upgrade in the strength department. After seeing a stock lower one fold from coming down on a rock (and the ensuing couple hour long rescue mission in the freezing cold) that was enough incentive for me to run them.
 
Do you think the compression adjuster knobs are worth their value not that you've been able to play with them and the new coils? I am planning on getting CO's in the future and am wondering if it's really even work the extra few hundred dollars. I'd really like to hear your input on how much difference they make from softest vs stiffest settings. Also if you actually adjust them or just find the right setting and leave it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

AssBurns,

I don't think they are even an option for the front as King doesn't offer their coilovers with a Remote Reservoir for the 3rd Gen 4Runner (at least not at the time I ordered mine). I do like them out back because that is where you have a varying amount of weight. I have them set one way for my normal day to day load then crank up the compression when I really weigh it down (out doing a delivery or loaded up for a weekend trip).
 
Wow, easily the absolute BEST drawer system I've seen! I was browsing the cargo box build thread and saw yours on there so I creeped to your build page! Super clean! Great job! Is it alright if I steal every songle aspect of your drawer build? I'm going to attempt to reverse engineer it based off of the pics, but if you happen to still have the measurement or plans, man, I'd pay money for those..

huckle.berry,

No real plans to speak of but if you need a specific measurement off of something or different pics just let me know.
 
How did you bevel the cutout for the wheelwell?

huckle.berry,

Very carefully, free hand on a table saw (and not in the traditional way a table saw is used). If you see it from underneath it isn't all that pretty but it gets the job done.
 

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[MENTION=9631]twitchee2[/MENTION]
Here are a couple of pics, this pre-fabbed lower shock mount comes in the secondary shock hoop kit from TOTAL CHAOS (part#96602). You cut/grind off the swaybar mount from your lower arm and weld-on the new shock mount. It indexes around the big rivets in the end of the stock lower arm so placement is a breeze.

So with only a rear anti-roll bar, do you notice any increase in oversteer on fast dirt roads?

Also, when you added the bypass shocks up front, did it change the oversteer vs. understeer due to the additional damping? I know it's been a while since yo did all that work, but hopefully you remember the "pre" setup vs. how it is now.

Thx
 
So with only a rear anti-roll bar, do you notice any increase in oversteer on fast dirt roads?

Also, when you added the bypass shocks up front, did it change the oversteer vs. understeer due to the additional damping? I know it's been a while since yo did all that work, but hopefully you remember the "pre" setup vs. how it is now.

Thx

With just a coilover up front (no bypass and with the swaybar removed) it had a decent amount of bodyroll. After adding the bypass it remains pretty flat, even when pitching it around corners.
 
Ran up to Big Bear to play in the snow last weekend:
 

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With just a coilover up front (no bypass and with the swaybar removed) it had a decent amount of bodyroll. After adding the bypass it remains pretty flat, even when pitching it around corners.

Thanks, that's kinda what I figured...and tunable to boot! Great pics in the snow, BTW.
 
Also, how do you like the Superflex spring with the 2.5 in the rear?
I'm running Fox 2.5 with resi up front and Superflex springs with Boss shocks in the rear and it can't keep up with the front. Trying to decide on a rear shock that will pair the superflex coil a bit better.
 
Patio Burrito great build. Giving me all kinds of new ideas. Can you elaborate on the axles you are running?
Thanks in advance.
 
do you know the extended length on the rear shock you are using? did the standard 25001-334 work or is that why you referenced the 25001-334A because its a little longer?

Thanks,
Gregg
 
Patio Burrito great build. Giving me all kinds of new ideas. Can you elaborate on the axles you are running?
Thanks in advance.

They are a stock 4Runner length 4340 Chromoly shaft with the Tundra splines so I can use the Tundra Inner CV Joint. The Tundra inner CV is a much better design (6-ball similar to a Porsche 930 vs the Taco/4runner tripod joint). Unfortunately you would be looking at over a thousand bucks to replicate (a pair of the shafts plus a pair of OEM Toyota Tundra axles/CV's to get the joints from). But they did solve my CV angle issue without running a diff drop and I never once had a broken CV joint.
 
do you know the extended length on the rear shock you are using? did the standard 25001-334 work or is that why you referenced the 25001-334A because its a little longer?

Thanks,
Gregg

The "A" at the end of the part # indicates it has the compression adjuster knobs. Mine are a custom length to work with the Toytec Superflex Springs. When ordering from King tell them it is for use with a 3" lift, I believe it cost an extra $200 per pair because it is then a "custom length".
 
Unfortunately the time had come to move on to something a little bigger. The 3rd Gen just wasn't big enough now that we have two car seats and two dogs. The 4Runner has been sold to a friend of mine and a 2005 GX470 has taken it's place. I will start a new build thread for that one once it has some fun stuff done to it.
 

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