Post your LIFTED pix here!

How does ome 884's in the front, and daystar 1.5" spacer in the rear sound?

Will be nose high. Most people only get 1" out of the DS 1.5" - might go with the 883 and the DS 1.5" - that would be a good combo or front 5100's set at 1.75 and the DS 1.5" rear.

The 884's you need to run OME 90010 or bilstein 5100 struts with.
 
Did you have the Dealership do it?

Yes and they screwed up. It is still at the dealership because according to them they got air in the system and now they need a special tool they don't have to get it out. So I'm driving a rental that they are paying for. I haven't even driven the damn thing for the first time and I'm already paying for it (Venting) I got a very expensive rental just a way to get back at them I guess.. $600 a week for a Limited MAX Expedition lol
 
The dealer here installs ready lift 3" kits for 840$ seems salty for like a what 400$ kit. That includes alignment though. Had anyone tried these lifts and had alignment issues, or do you think the daystar 2,5"/ 1.5" would be a better buy and less likely to need UCA's? And does a 3" kit look stupid with 265/70/17 tires ?
 
The dealer here installs ready lift 3" kits for 840$ seems salty for like a what 400$ kit. That includes alignment though. Had anyone tried these lifts and had alignment issues, or do you think the daystar 2,5"/ 1.5" would be a better buy and less likely to need UCA's? And does a 3" kit look stupid with 265/70/17 tires ?

Geez, $840 to instal a spacer kit? That's ridiculous. I had a full coil overs, UCA's, rear, tires and alignment done for i think around $600 or maybe even a less. But this wasn't done at a dealer. Go find somewhere else.
 
Are the 4 runners like tacoma's where if u go 2.5" u might need uca's but will for sure need them at 3" ? Sorry for all the questions I'm new to 4 runners and know nothing about them
 
Lifted

Well, finally got the lift. Toytec Boss with Light Racing UCAs. Took a few night shots of the setup, will take better daytime photos later.

Passenger side
20131211_235149_zps033c9aeb.jpg~original


Driver side
20131211_235137_zpsc7e9b999.jpg~original


Passenger side
20131211_235103_zpsd30260bb.jpg~original


Driver side
20131211_235124_zps501a85a0.jpg~original


Do you guys/gals think the angle is off? The fins are rubbing, but is it too much rubbing? I think I'll have to lower the front a bit, it sits level now, but I prefer the factory rake.

Edit: remembered a thread that was talking about cv angles, searched and found this http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/152119-post-lift-cv-angle.html I think his looks worse than mine?
 
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Well, finally got the lift. Toytec Boss with Light Racing UCAs. Took a few night shots of the setup, will take better daytime photos later.

Your angles are bad, you need to lower your coil overs. Fins touching is too much rubbing, there isn't an acceptable about of rubbing.

David
 
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Well, finally got the lift. Toytec Boss with Light Racing UCAs. Took a few night shots of the setup, will take better daytime photos later.

Do you guys/gals think the angle is off? The fins are rubbing, but is it too much rubbing? I think I'll have to lower the front a bit, it sits level now, but I prefer the factory rake.

Edit: remembered a thread that was talking about cv angles, searched and found this http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/152119-post-lift-cv-angle.html I think his looks worse than mine?

Have you measured to see the actual lift you gained? I remember when I just got done with my 883s up front only, it was pretty much level with the rear, and my CV angles were no where near as bad as your. Have you given it a quick drive around the block to see if it settles some?
 
Well, finally got the lift. Toytec Boss with Light Racing UCAs. Took a few night shots of the setup, will take better daytime photos later.

Driver side
20131211_235124_zps501a85a0.jpg~original


Do you guys/gals think the angle is off? The fins are rubbing, but is it too much rubbing? I think I'll have to lower the front a bit, it sits level now, but I prefer the factory rake.

Edit: remembered a thread that was talking about cv angles, searched and found this http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/152119-post-lift-cv-angle.html I think his looks worse than mine?

The joint closest to the front diff just doesn't look like it's sitting right. Is it just me?
 
Thanks for replying David. The tech said he's done plenty of lifts and that looks okay, he's even seen it worse on some Tundras, yikes!? I had them put it down 1inch and hopefully that improves the angle much more. I'll report back tonight.
 
Thanks for replying David. The tech said he's done plenty of lifts and that looks okay, he's even seen it worse on some Tundras, yikes!? I had them put it down 1inch and hopefully that improves the angle much more. I'll report back tonight.


Did you install the sway bar relocate kit, I can't tell from the pictures....
 
Have you measured to see the actual lift you gained? I remember when I just got done with my 883s up front only, it was pretty much level with the rear, and my CV angles were no where near as bad as your. Have you given it a quick drive around the block to see if it settles some?

Was extremely busy so no before measurements. But there's definately a lift because I was having a harder time getting in and out, I am adjusting to it though. Drove 20 miles so iit settled. We shall see after the drop.

I did take measurements after lift. From center of hub to wheel well 24in both sides, per phone call to toyteclifts you want to be between 23-24 up front. So I am going with the lower end.
 
Thanks for replying David. The tech said he's done plenty of lifts and that looks okay, he's even seen it worse on some Tundras, yikes!? I had them put it down 1inch and hopefully that improves the angle much more. I'll report back tonight.

The tech is wrong. There's no maybe in the discussion. Your CV boots won't survive for more than a few thousand miles if they are rubbing. When the boots fail, joint failure will follow shortly.

2.5" is the max safe lift on a Toyota IFS. If you are looking for near factory reliability, that's it - no more. That is NOT the point where the boots are usually touching, that's just the max that's OK for the CV joints. 2.5" suspension lift + 0.5" from running 285/70R17's vs stock size and you have 3" lift, which is what most people are shooting for. The center hub to center of the fender measurement should be no more than 23" (more like 22.75", depends on the truck).

Lots of people push it past that point. Some do it because they don't know they have accelerated wear. Some do it because they are looking to maximize their Off Road potential and accept that breaking parts is part of the deal. It's impossible to say if you lift XXX amount your CV joints will fail in XXX miles, but it's pretty well accepted that once you go beyond 3" suspension lift (3.5" total w/ tires) you are living on borrowed time. Your center hub to top of fender measurement should be 23.5" max - even there, you may need to spread/secure your CV boots w/ hose clamps to keep the fins from touching.

Again, if the fins are touching, they are rubbing w/ every revolution of the wheel. That rubber will NOT stand up to that wear. It will fail and your CV joints will fail shortly after that.

My advice would be to drop it a full inch to 23" in the front, bare minimum a 1/2" drop to 23.5" and check your boots. The "look" isn't worth the expense in my book.

HTH
David
 
David, thank you for taking the time to explain things for me. I appreciate it very much! And thank you for all the other members who chimed in, and thank you in general to all the other members who always contribute to this site!

The dealer tried calling me twice, but apparently I missed their call. So I didn't get a chance to talk to the service tech. I was able to bring the 4R home.

Got her aligned too with caster 3+.

Measured from center of hub to fender on both sides, have 23inches. However, this was in the driveway with a slight incline, I will have to measure again on a flat surface.

Here are the pics in the order of, toytec default setting sitting at 24inches from center of hub to fender, then down to 23in at the dealership, then still at 23in when I drove home, about 20 miles.
liftprogressionpassengerside_zpseaef30b5.jpg~original

liftprogressiondriverside_zps0a5b84ec.jpg~original


It looks a lot better to me, is it in the "acceptable" range now, or at the very least "better than before range", David?

Not doing the lift for the looks (despite it really looking nicer), when at full lock and reversing, it would rub on the SW bumper's fluid reservoir, I didn't want to be in a situation where I had to do an emergency brake/aggressive steer and blow a tire. Got the bumper for the wife to add more stoutness to the 4R just in case she gets in an accident (she's a horrible stereotypical female asian driver, granted she has gotten much better after having 2 kids!). Working with Bud from budbuilt on a "custom" slider for side crashes, just a little different design for the full tread. He responded right away too, not something you get a lot from offroad venders I hear!

I know Greg (1engineer) talked about how adding these aftermarket bumpers, sliders, etc actually decrease the safety features of the stock 4R, but adding more "armor" just makes me "feel" safer, is it the most evidence based thing to do in terms of safety? nope, but having that extra metal cushion between my family and the other guy makes me feel a little better for some reason. sorry for the hijack! I will post daytime pics when I actually have time during the day to take one!
 
David, thank you for taking the time to explain things for me. I appreciate it very much! And thank you for all the other members who chimed in, and thank you in general to all the other members who always contribute to this site!

The dealer tried calling me twice, but apparently I missed their call. So I didn't get a chance to talk to the service tech. I was able to bring the 4R home.

Got her aligned too with caster 3+.

Measured from center of hub to fender on both sides, have 23inches. However, this was in the driveway with a slight incline, I will have to measure again on a flat surface.

Here are the pics in the order of, toytec default setting sitting at 24inches from center of hub to fender, then down to 23in at the dealership, then still at 23in when I drove home, about 20 miles.


It looks a lot better to me, is it in the "acceptable" range now, or at the very least "better than before range", David?

Not doing the lift for the looks (despite it really looking nicer), when at full lock and reversing, it would rub on the SW bumper's fluid reservoir, I didn't want to be in a situation where I had to do an emergency brake/aggressive steer and blow a tire. Got the bumper for the wife to add more stoutness to the 4R just in case she gets in an accident (she's a horrible stereotypical female asian driver, granted she has gotten much better after having 2 kids!). Working with Bud from budbuilt on a "custom" slider for side crashes, just a little different design for the full tread. He responded right away too, not something you get a lot from offroad venders I hear!

I know Greg (1engineer) talked about how adding these aftermarket bumpers, sliders, etc actually decrease the safety features of the stock 4R, but adding more "armor" just makes me "feel" safer, is it the most evidence based thing to do in terms of safety? nope, but having that extra metal cushion between my family and the other guy makes me feel a little better for some reason. sorry for the hijack! I will post daytime pics when I actually have time during the day to take one!

That looks a lot better! The inner CV boot looks like you've still got some minor touching/rubbing. You can see in the last pictures on each side the dark "clean" rub rings on the interior cv boots - that's where they were rubbing before.

Certainly where you are now, a lot of people drive for a long time and ignore w/ few problems. If it was mine, I would drive it for a few days and see if it settles more. If it doesn't, I would probably look at getting it dropped another 0.25", followed up w/ another 0.25" drop if needed to get the boots not to touch. I'm pretty conservative though, and I'm sure there are lots of people driving around w/ boots like yours are now w/ no problems.

Some interesting reading on the subject:

my CV boot mod - Tacoma World Forums

David
 
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Mr canazes, I hadn't thought about it much but now that you bring it up how do mine look?

Its not like I'm the expert on CV angles/boots! Lots of guys on here with more experience than me....

As to your question, yours look perfect to me! How much lift do you have? What's your measurement from center of hub to fender?

David
 
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