Question - Locked out of vehicle while it is running

[supawabb]

Ok, first off this is most likely my fault entirely, but trying to get some clarification.

I have a 2017 Limited with smart key.

Started the vehicle this morning before work as it was brisk outside (Celsius -29 / -41 windchill. Fahrenheit -20 / -41.8 windchill). It was plugged in the previous 13 hours, vehicle starts up, bit of a groan, but it started. I then (here is where it is most likely my fault), lock the doors with the interior door lock, close the door and head inside while it warms up. 10 minutes later I come out, use the fob to unlock the doors - drivers side - and nothing, doors will not unlock. I try the passenger door, rear front and pass doors, rear hatch, the smart unlock door handle. I then remember the the key on the fob, so I resort to trying the key. The key is not working, will not turn at all. So I turn the key 180 degrees, nothing. Key still does not turn. I am trying the fob and key on and off for 20 minutes, then decide to try the second remote. Still nothing. I take the key out of the second fob and after 1/2 dozen or so tries the doors finally unlock.

Toyota told me my lock had to be frozen. Possible I guess, but the vehicle has not been washed for over 3 weeks. Is there any other reason this would have happened?

I imagine the vehicle thought there was someone sitting in the drivers seat when I locked the doors from the inside and shut it, but I also would have thought the fob should have unlocked the doors for me from the outside.

Any advice, thoughts, knowledge would be appreciated.

 

[S54MCoupe]

Any advice, thoughts, knowledge would be appreciated.

Move somewhere warmer.

 

[live_discover]

Was the truck making the beeping nose like its trying to unlock when pressing the remote? If so then yes your locks froze. It happens from moisture in the air.

 

[supawabb]

Was the truck making the beeping nose like its trying to unlock when pressing the remote? If so then yes your locks froze. It happens from moisture in the air.

No beeping.

 

[(none)]

lock itself was frozen, but that wouldn't have anything to do with your remote not locking/unlocking the doors.

Try again, but lock it with the remote instead of using the interior button.

 

[supawabb]

Doors do not lock with fob when vehicle is running and I am outside of it. Got home from work, left vehicle running, unrolled drivers window and Stood outside of it and tried to lock the doors via the door lock switch on the door, wouldn’t lock. The lock would immediately open.

I am thinking it was so cold this morning it did something goofy to it. No other explanation.

 

[RAD4Runner]

...so I resort to trying the key. The key is not working, will not turn at all. ...
Toyota told me my lock had to be frozen. Possible I guess, but the vehicle has not been washed for over 3 weeks...

Mechanical parts of the lock's gotta be frozen...
It doesn't take washing for moisture to get inside. Plain condensation will do that.

.... Gotta have one of this... Take it surfing, swimming, diving, on a mud-run, get thrown into a pool by friends at party... etc keeps on working

 

[Tisoy281]

Mechanical parts of the lock's gotta be frozen...
It doesn't take washing for moisture to get inside. Plain condensation will do that.

.... Gotta have one of this... Take it surfing, swimming, diving, on a mud-run, get thrown into a pool by friends at party... etc keeps on working

*these

 

[supawabb]

Seems to only be an issue with the deathly cold we are experiencing. Once the vehicle has warmed up, the doors will NOT lock unless I am on the drivers seat.

As far as the key goes, it is a cheap key that slips into the smart key and is not all that solid feeling, and nor would a solid key help much if the locks were indeed frozen.

 

[mo_mo]

Was the power rear window up/down function from the tailgate working as an option to breaking in... presuming the backend isn't full of stuff.

 

[flea1983]

Was the power rear window up/down function from the tailgate working as an option to breaking in... presuming the backend isn't full of stuff.

When the vehicle is on, you can’t roll down the rear window from the outside.

 

[Jhalko]

Seems to only be an issue with the deathly cold we are experiencing. Once the vehicle has warmed up, the doors will NOT lock unless I am on the drivers seat.

As far as the key goes, it is a cheap key that slips into the smart key and is not all that solid feeling, and nor would a solid key help much if the locks were indeed frozen.

You aren’t supposed to be able to lock yourself out with the smart key inside with the limited. Had to be the freezing temps.

 

[mo_mo]

When the vehicle is on, you can’t roll down the rear window from the outside.

Ah. Not an issue with the non-keyless versions. One key in the ignition with engine on and transmission in Park with a second key in the gate to operate the window.

Good to know!

 

[SpicyMcHaggus]

Seems to only be an issue with the deathly cold we are experiencing. Once the vehicle has warmed up, the doors will NOT lock unless I am on the drivers seat.

As far as the key goes, it is a cheap key that slips into the smart key and is not all that solid feeling, and nor would a solid key help much if the locks were indeed frozen.

Your seat occupancy sensor was stuck. The truck is not supposed to allow you to use the remote buttons while the seat is occupied. Once it heated up enough, the truck didn't think anyone was in the seat, and allowed remote commands to work.

 

[rigtec]

Ok, first off this is most likely my fault entirely, but trying to get some clarification.

I have a 2017 Limited with smart key.

Started the vehicle this morning before work as it was brisk outside (Celsius -29 / -41 windchill. Fahrenheit -20 / -41.8 windchill). It was plugged in the previous 13 hours, vehicle starts up, bit of a groan, but it started. I then (here is where it is most likely my fault), lock the doors with the interior door lock, close the door and head inside while it warms up...

I think the electronics failed (not you) when it let you lock the doors from the inside with the engine running and they remained locked when you shut the door and not being in the vehicle; that's an electronics flaw. There should be a fail-safe feature to prevent that from EVER HAPPENING at any time! I don't even believe that if not but for the extreme weather conditions there (IMHO) that, that could have happened so there's nothing to fix or to repair at this time!

rig, cheers

 

[supawabb]

I think the electronics failed (not you) when it let you lock the doors from the inside with the engine running and they remained locked when you shut the door and not being in the vehicle; that's an electronics flaw. There should be a fail-safe feature to prevent that from EVER HAPPENING at any time! I don't even believe that if not but for the extreme weather conditions there (IMHO) that, that could have happened so there's nothing to fix or to repair at this time!

rig, cheers

Thank you very much. I am in complete agreement. Once the temps hit -20 Celcius (-4 Fahrenheit), no issues. The -40 Celcius (-40 Fahrenheit) is all together a different story. Electronics must be far too cold.

No issues since.

Thank you everyone for your replies.

 

[rigtec]

Thank you very much. I am in complete agreement. Once the temps hit -20 Celcius (-4 Fahrenheit), no issues. The -40 Celcius (-40 Fahrenheit) is all together a different story. Electronics must be far too cold.

No issues since.

Thank you everyone for your replies.

The subject has been raised before about the way most all of the newer vehicle's typical electrical system amenities e.g., lights, motors, temperature controls... even the Power-Train set-ups are designed to be software/firmware driven now. That's all fine and good but with that also comes it's downside which just happens to be it's vulnerability to EXTREME heat and cold ambient environments.

It's not just the automotive industry where this type of problem has had to be worked-around... just think about the commercial/industrial HVAC field (my trade) where the software driven equipment that keeps the buildings cool in the summer, and warm in the winter is often located on the roof of a facility. Well, to make a long story short, they use electronic control modules to operate these machines and in some cases, the circuit boards or modules will have heat trace tape/blankets for those extreme weather conditions (low ambient temps below 10 deg F) to warm-up the modules a bit to prevent the modules from failure due to any extreme cold weather conditions.

The modules are well insulated and have sensors to protect the circuit boards from temps below freezing. Not only can the module fail altogether under some truly cold temperatures, but the calibration and operating temperatures can swing way far out of range so it's very important that these control modules remain calibrated under all operating conditions! Perhaps the automotive industry can borrow a few ideas from some of the other 'Electronic Control Module' Developers with regards to this critical issue... 'Best to you',

rig, cheers!

 

[wcjeep]

How much energy does the vehicle plug in use? On my Diesel, the few times I've plugged it in I did do so an hour before leaving the house. I recall it used 7amps. Running that for 13hrs seems not necessary. Remote start would help avoid theft. Don't use the Toyota remote start. Go aftermarket.

 

[rigtec]

How much energy does the vehicle plug in use? On my Diesel, the few times I've plugged it in I did do so an hour before leaving the house. I recall it used 7amps. Running that for 13hrs seems not necessary. Remote start would help avoid theft. Don't use the Toyota remote start. Go aftermarket.

Hi wcjeep,

*I wasn't referring to keeping the block warm, but just the electronics!*

The ECU circuit board heaters would only be allowed to consume a nominal current draw with a great amount of attention given to energy conservation... much like the full amount of current draw that is already allocated to the 'Main Body ECU Compu Network' and the 25 to 30 ECU's under it's high ranking command... don't forget that this compu network is still in (lite duty) operation long after you've shut the vehicle off and have gone ...for the night!

And the "intermittent", temperature controlled circuit board trace heaters that I mentioned earlier would draw only milli-amps; just enough current (btu's) to maintain consistent circuit resistance/capacitance/inductance; cuz these are the parameters that change when ambient temps go to the EXTREME!! I believe some of the TOP-END European cars are (have been for a good while now) using temperature controlled PCM's, ECU's, etc, when things have to be right!

rig, Cheers!

 

[Arango]

You aren’t supposed to be able to lock yourself out with the smart key inside with the limited. Had to be the freezing temps.

It actually happened to me at the dealer today. I was at the maintenance appointment, when they were done called me to give me my car, went to get in the car and was locked, key fob inside. 2019 Limited. I was under the impression you couldn’t lock doors with key fob inside. They didn’t know what to do and on top tried to blame it on me!
They offered a ride home to get my spare (30-minute drive), and just before leaving, I remembered I had the Viper app and used it to unlock it.
Any idea why it locked?