Rear Axle Seals: The Ultimate Information and Replacement Thread (3rd gen)

Pic Trouble?

Anyone else having trouble viewing the pics. Im about to do this repair on my truck. Was only going to get the inner and outer seals, bearings, and new shoes. Is all that new stuff really necessary?
 
Anyone else having trouble viewing the pics. Im about to do this repair on my truck. Was only going to get the inner and outer seals, bearings, and new shoes. Is all that new stuff really necessary?

All the other stuff is necessary. Everything has to be pressed off (retainers, abs speed rings, etc.) to get to your bearing. The old stuff is not as strong and will not seat snug back onto the axle when the press work is done.

Figure out how to view the pictures and read through this thread thoroughly. It will answer most, if not all of your questions.
 
I reused everything when I did my upgrade to chomo axles, I also used 10T of pressure to assemble it, so I'd say it's plenty snug. If you're taking yours to a shop, or attempting it yourself and don't have a lot of experience, then have the extra's on hand at least.
 
Just did this job after discovering my seals and bearings were bad after pulling the axles for a locker install. Really great writeup! I chose to reuse parts where possible and really don't foresee any problems. I cut the outer retaining collars with a dremel and then applied some light (heavy) heat to the ABS ring and it slid right off. So the inner retaining collars and both ABS rings were re-used.With the help of the one and only Zuk , who was installing my locker, and his shop press and home-fab bearing puller it was all pretty smooth.

I was surprised to find that someone (previous owners) had done a really shoddy job at replacing the bearings previously. I found marks where a hammer and screwdriver was used to get the collars back in place and one of the C clips was literally halfway unseated. I am imagining it was just shoddy work (probably by the same people who botched a water pump and timing belt install on the vehicle) that led to the bearing and seal failure.

There is a surprising amount of play in the new bearings but Zuk assured me that is expected and this is corroborated by what others have said so don't be freaked out when there is some back and forth play when everything is assembled.

Thanks for the writeup!
 
I reused everything when I did my upgrade to chomo axles, I also used 10T of pressure to assemble it, so I'd say it's plenty snug. If you're taking yours to a shop, or attempting it yourself and don't have a lot of experience, then have the extra's on hand at least.

I assume the press you used was labeled 10 ton but in reality you used far less to assemble? The press we have at work lets you know the current tonnage and I never exceeded 1 ton with my install. I am trying to save someone someone on here from being worried about their install because they only used 1 ton like me.
 
Nope. It is a 50T electronic controlled hydraulic press, with a pressure gauge letting you know current working pressure. There is no need for anyone to be worried about what they're using, as long as you are able to press everything to the correct depth/location there is no matter how big or small of a press you use.
 
Just did this job after discovering my seals and bearings were bad after pulling the axles for a locker install. Really great writeup! I chose to reuse parts where possible and really don't foresee any problems. I cut the outer retaining collars with a dremel and then applied some light (heavy) heat to the ABS ring and it slid right off. So the inner retaining collars and both ABS rings were re-used.With the help of the one and only Zuk , who was installing my locker, and his shop press and home-fab bearing puller it was all pretty smooth.

I was surprised to find that someone (previous owners) had done a really shoddy job at replacing the bearings previously. I found marks where a hammer and screwdriver was used to get the collars back in place and one of the C clips was literally halfway unseated. I am imagining it was just shoddy work (probably by the same people who botched a water pump and timing belt install on the vehicle) that led to the bearing and seal failure.

There is a surprising amount of play in the new bearings but Zuk assured me that is expected and this is corroborated by what others have said so don't be freaked out when there is some back and forth play when everything is assembled.

Thanks for the writeup!

The bearings are self centering so yes they have an unusual amount of "rock" in them!
 
Just an FYI if this hasn't been posted prior. BFAD's amended parts # list for 2000-2002 4Runners.

inner seal - 90310-50006
bearing - 90363-40068
ABS rotor - 43517-35010
bearing retainer x2 - 42423-20010
outer seal - 90313-54001
snap ring - 90520-36045
O-ring - 90301-88077

Hope this helps.
 
I had the entire job done at a shop for $900. A year later I discovered tons of oil in the drums. I didn't notice for so long because I trusted the shops work. Took it back to the shop in hopes of them cutting me a deal but no luck.
I pulled the shafts out, planning on just replacing the shoes and the inner seals only to discover extremely poor press work and a nick in the shaft from a cut tool. The press work was so poor one side had the two retainers and toner ring pressed all the way against each other.
I put new inner retainers on, lining them up with new seals using the grease test. That lasted about 2 months until my previously soaked bearings completely failed.
Looks like I'll be building the puller tool for my press and doing the whole job. Which I should have from the start. Hopefully I can hide that nick with a retainer.
 
Bearing Press: How Far

So, I lucked out and found a buddy with a press and has the bearing fittings to do the job, free of charge! My question is, when I press on the retainers, how far do I press them back onto the axle? Is there a groove cut into the axle that will stop it, or does it need to be measured out?
 
First one gets pressed down onto the axle bearing. Second one needs to be measured, or guesstimated and checked via the grease test.
 
You'll wash out the grease in the wheel bearing and wear it out rather quickly. Then you'll have to do all the work involved with pressing or paying someone to do it for you, instead of changing a $12 seal in 30mins.
 
Hi all :usa2:

Is it a good chance that the rear axle seal is leaking?

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Pics didnt load but if your drum is wet on the back then I say 90% yes! Could be a leaky brake cylinder but you would know since brake fluid would be low.
 
Hi all :usa2:

Is it a good chance that the rear axle seal is leaking?










Looks pretty dry except the last pic! I think most people end up with their drum SOAKED. I think mine ended up being a slow leak or perhaps even the cylinder but here's what it looked like for reference.

rsz_2014-12-01pct20135720.jpg
 

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