kissmybass
New member
my 99 4WD V6 SR5 used the 2nd picture type.
Rear Axle Seals: The Ultimate Information and Replacement Thread (3rd gen)
- Thread starter BigFishAllDay
- Start date
JZiggy
Senior Member
Thanks! Was yours with ABS or not?
kissmybass
New member
Had ABS Ring
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
Hey guys,
I'm picking out parts for a rear wheel bearing job and was hoping for some clarification regarding the style of the bearing that is used.
My truck is a 99 4Runner, 3RZ manual, non-ABS.
Looking up the Toyota part number online yields 90363-40068. The picture of this bearing shows an extended inner race:
When I look up wheel bearing kits on sites like Marlin Crawler or even RockAuto they show a standard bearing without an extended race. When I did the wheel bearings on my 1988 4Runner I recall it had a standard race. Like this:
If I can confirm that my truck uses the standard bearing style without the extended race I can just order a premium Japanese 6308 double-sealed bearing and be good to go.
I seem to recall reading somewhere that the extended race actually appeared in the 2001-02 4Runners?
Any guidance here would be appreciated!
That bearing is for the 2001-2002 years
JZiggy
Senior Member
The one with the extended race is for the 01-02 axles?
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
Last edited:
I am looking for first hand experience or opinions of the Heavy Duty Rear Axle EcoSeal that Marlin Crawler offers. If you know anything about it please chime in. Besides it being for non-ABS units only are there any other considerations to using it?
Link to product below...
https://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/rear-axle-parts/heavy-duty-rear-axle-ecoseal
Link to product below...
https://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/rear-axle-parts/heavy-duty-rear-axle-ecoseal
Just to add some prices on having a shop do this repair. I have a '99 SR5 2wd v6, bought in Dec 2005 (with 90K miles on it).
- axles seals shot when I bought the car, so had them replaced for $1300 (this price included a transmission flush). Repair included axle seals, abs ring, rear brake shoes, resurface drums, flush brakes, diagnostic scan
- about 6 years and 35K miles later axle seals shot again. This was disappointing as this 4Runner was my first Toyota car and had heard they were super reliable. Cost $1200 this time. Shop owner said Toyota fixed the design so hopefully they won't fail again.
In the 11 years I've owned this SUV (168K miles now) I estimate I've paid for about $8000 worth of unscheduled repairs. That works out to about $750/year, not too bad I guess. Most recent repair was replacing 5 fuel injectors (two had failed so I pre-emptively had the remaining 4 replaced as well).
I really like driving it so hopefully it'll keep chugging along for a few more years. I wish I could get the same size vehicle from Toyota now but the newer models are super-sized compared to the 3rd gen - 800 lbs heavier, reduced road clearance, reduced rear legroom (due to unwanted 3rd row) and get no better gas mileage. The electronics are way, way better though!
- axles seals shot when I bought the car, so had them replaced for $1300 (this price included a transmission flush). Repair included axle seals, abs ring, rear brake shoes, resurface drums, flush brakes, diagnostic scan
- about 6 years and 35K miles later axle seals shot again. This was disappointing as this 4Runner was my first Toyota car and had heard they were super reliable. Cost $1200 this time. Shop owner said Toyota fixed the design so hopefully they won't fail again.
In the 11 years I've owned this SUV (168K miles now) I estimate I've paid for about $8000 worth of unscheduled repairs. That works out to about $750/year, not too bad I guess. Most recent repair was replacing 5 fuel injectors (two had failed so I pre-emptively had the remaining 4 replaced as well).
I really like driving it so hopefully it'll keep chugging along for a few more years. I wish I could get the same size vehicle from Toyota now but the newer models are super-sized compared to the 3rd gen - 800 lbs heavier, reduced road clearance, reduced rear legroom (due to unwanted 3rd row) and get no better gas mileage. The electronics are way, way better though!
Jason B
Official Vendor
Maybe I've just been luckier with mine. I've had the truck for 17 years now and the only thing I've done is the axle seals one time. Now, I'm not trying to make you spend more money but the Doug Thorley Headers for the 3.4 L do give quite a bit better gas mileage and a nice bump in power. Adding those will make a huge transformation of the truck. If you decide on them let me know. I also sell them.
Jhelms
New member
This is why you ALWAYS replace the bearings if you had an axle seal leak.
Long story as short as possible:
When I bought this runner, I thought I was good as the PO had a receipt for axle seals AND bearings being replaced around 40K miles ago. Few weeks ago I was driving to Cali from Az and coming off the hill into Thousand Palms area, I started to hear a funny noise. By the time I stopped, got gas and started to drive again, it was clear there was something VERY wrong. Felt like one of the rear brakes was hanging up and I had a terrible grinding noise. Luckily I brought tools with me and took off the drums / all was good with the brakes. Without a lift, not much more I could do in a parking lot so I took it into the only shop open on Sunday. We got it on a lift, did some troubleshooting as i could not pinpoint the noise driving or find where the hangup was. We found the left rear wheel hanging up. I pulled the ABS sensor and whoa! It was a MESS inside. Luckily the shop let me run the project / use their tech as a helper - labor as their techs experience was limited. Painfully, they only had a small press with limited tools in the back. This was more of an oil and tire shop willing to help but it ended up saving my bacon.
We got in a replacement bearing, seal and race from Napa... the rest was a nightmare as I did not have any of my specialty tools with me. We ended up cutting off the seal race, somehow getting off the ABS ring and rigging up the assembly to press the axle out of the hub / bearing. In total, about 4 hours of pain and suffering for what would have taken me 30 minutes with my tools. But we got it all done and I continued to cali - no issues since...
What I found was: The shop that supposedly did both bearings and seals only changed the left seal! But charged the PO $1200+! (and people wonder why I trust 0.0 shops unless I am standing in the bay with the tech) It was noted left seal leaking which is why he had the work done. When I pulled the left side apart, it had an aftermarket seal but OEM bearing. Right side still had the OEM seal and bearing. It was clear the ABS ring, retainers and such had never been touched and both bearings were OEM.
This bearing was fine for the last 40K miles as it has been almost all in town and low speed. But when I got on the freeway / 80mph for hours on end, she let go in a bad way.
Mounted that bastard bearing on the wall in the shop.
Long story as short as possible:
When I bought this runner, I thought I was good as the PO had a receipt for axle seals AND bearings being replaced around 40K miles ago. Few weeks ago I was driving to Cali from Az and coming off the hill into Thousand Palms area, I started to hear a funny noise. By the time I stopped, got gas and started to drive again, it was clear there was something VERY wrong. Felt like one of the rear brakes was hanging up and I had a terrible grinding noise. Luckily I brought tools with me and took off the drums / all was good with the brakes. Without a lift, not much more I could do in a parking lot so I took it into the only shop open on Sunday. We got it on a lift, did some troubleshooting as i could not pinpoint the noise driving or find where the hangup was. We found the left rear wheel hanging up. I pulled the ABS sensor and whoa! It was a MESS inside. Luckily the shop let me run the project / use their tech as a helper - labor as their techs experience was limited. Painfully, they only had a small press with limited tools in the back. This was more of an oil and tire shop willing to help but it ended up saving my bacon.
We got in a replacement bearing, seal and race from Napa... the rest was a nightmare as I did not have any of my specialty tools with me. We ended up cutting off the seal race, somehow getting off the ABS ring and rigging up the assembly to press the axle out of the hub / bearing. In total, about 4 hours of pain and suffering for what would have taken me 30 minutes with my tools. But we got it all done and I continued to cali - no issues since...
What I found was: The shop that supposedly did both bearings and seals only changed the left seal! But charged the PO $1200+! (and people wonder why I trust 0.0 shops unless I am standing in the bay with the tech) It was noted left seal leaking which is why he had the work done. When I pulled the left side apart, it had an aftermarket seal but OEM bearing. Right side still had the OEM seal and bearing. It was clear the ABS ring, retainers and such had never been touched and both bearings were OEM.
This bearing was fine for the last 40K miles as it has been almost all in town and low speed. But when I got on the freeway / 80mph for hours on end, she let go in a bad way.
Mounted that bastard bearing on the wall in the shop.
Mark_BC
Senior Member
I'm going to put a "new" rear axle on with 226K on it, because I want the locker. Unknown history, from a front end collision write-off. Thinking that I should bite the bullet and replace the seals and bearings before putting it on. That will be a lot cheaper than a failure in the hinterlands of Mexico where I go. Agree?
poleclimber63
Member
From a fellow North Vancouverite to another, If you have a rear end sitting on your garage floor, I'd do everything. Especially the bearings and seals. Use OEM. When mine went, a few years back, for a 3rd party shop to do the seals and bearings, they quoted $1600 (that's CDN!)(that's including replacing the rear brakes!!) It's especially painful if you need to be somewhere and you have one vehicle! So, before you switch out the rear ends, do the work, it will be cheaper, as you will only have to take the shafts to a shop---- the rest is pretty easy--- just follow BFADs' instructions. PS make sure the diff breather is clear and when you do the switch do the diff breather extension.
I had the rear axle seal problem a few weeks ago. I paid a well-regarded mechanic $370 to change both seals. Now I know the recommendation on here is to go ahead and do the bearings as well but this mechanic was insistent that this was unnecessary/that the bearings looked good/that I should save my money.
Vehicle has only about 110k miles on it currently. Did I set myself up for failure in the long run?
Vehicle has only about 110k miles on it currently. Did I set myself up for failure in the long run?
You should be able to test the wheel bearings yourself and determine if the mechanic was BS'ing you or not.
Just google it.
Anyone?
Jason B
Official Vendor
Mine fixed itself. Check the rear diff and see how low it is. If it's low, refill it and wait.
kissmybass
New member
Well 2 things can happen: your rear brakes may fail due to all the oil leakage onto the drum/hardware and your rear diff will run low on oil and cause premature wear to your gears/differential.
If you have a tundra brake upgrade, the 1st issue may not be a huge concern. As for the diff running low, just keep refilling it. Not sure what affect the oil has on the wheel bearing though.
I'm not recommending EITHER of these as both are dangerous situations.
If you have a tundra brake upgrade, the 1st issue may not be a huge concern. As for the diff running low, just keep refilling it. Not sure what affect the oil has on the wheel bearing though.
I'm not recommending EITHER of these as both are dangerous situations.
