Rear end Rust/leak w Pics..

[eric70412]

Hello all, I love my Runner but unfortunately I think i'm finally going to have to get rid of her. The rear end is leaking due to the rust which is flaking off pretty bad. I knew it had a lot of rust on it when I got it but never looked at it close enough to realize how bad it was & now its leaking.

Is there a way that I could temperary fix this good enough so that I could maybe trade it in on something else. I'm not sure how long its been leaking I don't drive it every day but from the looks of the puddle it has been leaking for a few months now. I have now quit driving it all together so I can decide what I wanna do. I really don't think it would be worth replacing the whole rear end cause the vehicle is 13 years old & has a lot more rust other than the rear end. I'm not sure what to do.

Has anyone fixed the rust on theirs their self without having to replace the whole rear end?? Here are some pics of the severity. Not sure if it would be repairable at all! Appreciate any advice given!

Thank you, :sobbing:

Eric

 

[4yotaguy]

Just my two cents on this, but why not replace it? I guess from my perspective I usually really, really only junk a car for rust on a unibody car...although costs can be outta control. I would rather dump 10k into my 4r than drop it on a new car because of property taxes and other things...

But seriously, I would source a used rear and go from there. Tons of junk trucks out there for super cheap!!!

If you are trading it, you could try cleaning it as best as possible, JB weld, Rhino line it or something just to trade it Or even worse, drain it so there is barely anything left, clean, paint, and trade

 

[Doc2012]

Where are you located?

I've got a housing with the arms attached still.

All you'd need to do is swap diffs and axles.

 

[Tarzann]

There are a few threads I have seen of people doing weld work. One individual posted that they do it for a couple grand.
I guess it really depends how much you love it, and that will dictate your next step.
I have a rust battle going on with my vehicle but my rear end is not this rough. Like 4yota guy said get some type of sealant on there before you trade it. A lot of dealers probably wont look close enough to tell if you get it cleaned up first!
GOOD LUCK!

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I "fixed" mine but it really wasn't that bad. Wire wheel it down. Clean it up real good. Use some brake Clean, take it for a quick spin if the holes aren't obvious. Mine weren't. Yours might be. Then JB Weld it.
The only way to "fix" it is to replace the entire housing. I've been looking for one for months.

 

[eric70412]

I "fixed" mine but it really wasn't that bad. Wire wheel it down. Clean it up real good. Use some brake Clean, take it for a quick spin if the holes aren't obvious. Mine weren't. Yours might be. Then JB Weld it.
The only way to "fix" it is to replace the entire housing. I've been looking for one for months.

Thanks for the reply. This may be a dumb question but if I were to clean it up like you said and find the holes. Would I need to drain the remaining gear oil that is in there in order for the the JB Weld stuff to adhere properly to the metal?? Cause it looks as if its seeping through the rust.

I was able to get the plug out to check & see if there was any fluid in there still. I stuck my finger in there & dipped it right into the gear oil. It was just below the plug hole. When I pulled my finger out it was dripping with it and was not hard at all to reach. I assume that is the correct way to check the fluid level?? So ive been told anyway but just wanna make sure. As much as it was leaking I would of thought there would be hardly any in there.

Ive never used the JB Weld b4 & have no idea how to use it, but I think I would definitely like try that. Who knows I might get lucky. I actually thought about cleaning it up like you said and using the putty stuff that hardens like metal, but there might be a lot of area to cover..

 

[eric70412]

Where are you located?

I've got a housing with the arms attached still.

All you'd need to do is swap diffs and axles.

I'm in Uniontown PA. I think I am going to clean it up and try to JB Weld it first. Thanks for the offer though ill keep that in mind.

 

[southsidewaterman]

The cost of a replacement rear end will depend on which 4runner you have. If it is an automatic, you will have a much easier time finding a rear end to fit. If you have a manual, it may be a little more difficult to find and cost a bit more.

Due to all the variations between 4x2 vs 4x4, V6 vs 4cyl, 15in vs 16in wheels, automatic vs manual transmission, etc. there happens to be quite a few different rear ends out there for a 3rd gen 4runner and it isn't a one size fits all transaction.

When I lived in MA and was in need of a new rear end in my 4x4 V6 5spd, the only one that the shop could find in decent condition (based off of only pictures) was across the country in California and cost $950. I was told that if it had been an auto, it could have been sourced closer and cost a lot less.

I hope the temp fix works for you, but a replacement may not be a bad idea or nor be too cost prohibitive.

 

[eric70412]

The cost of a replacement rear end will depend on which 4runner you have. If it is an automatic, you will have a much easier time finding a rear end to fit. If you have a manual, it may be a little more difficult to find and cost a bit more.

Due to all the variations between 4x2 vs 4x4, V6 vs 4cyl, 15in vs 16in wheels, automatic vs manual transmission, etc. there happens to be quite a few different rear ends out there for a 3rd gen 4runner and it isn't a one size fits all transaction.

When I lived in MA and was in need of a new rear end in my 4x4 V6 5spd, the only one that the shop could find in decent condition (based off of only pictures) was across the country in California and cost $950. I was told that if it had been an auto, it could have been sourced closer and cost a lot less.

I hope the temp fix works for you, but a replacement may not be a bad idea or nor be too cost prohibitive.

Thanks for the great info I'll keep that in mind..

 

[xcmtb83]

The cost of a replacement rear end will depend on which 4runner you have. If it is an automatic, you will have a much easier time finding a rear end to fit. If you have a manual, it may be a little more difficult to find and cost a bit more.

Due to all the variations between 4x2 vs 4x4, V6 vs 4cyl, 15in vs 16in wheels, automatic vs manual transmission, etc. there happens to be quite a few different rear ends out there for a 3rd gen 4runner and it isn't a one size fits all transaction.

When I lived in MA and was in need of a new rear end in my 4x4 V6 5spd, the only one that the shop could find in decent condition (based off of only pictures) was across the country in California and cost $950. I was told that if it had been an auto, it could have been sourced closer and cost a lot less.

I hope the temp fix works for you, but a replacement may not be a bad idea or nor be too cost prohibitive.

Don't let this guy complicate things for you...

There are only two different axle housing styles and they are easy to identify. All you need is a non-elocker axle housing and then just swap your differential into the new one, OR This would also be a good time to find an elocker and housing if you are feeling ambitious! What is important is the housing needs to be from a non-elocker model 96-02 if you want to do a direct replacement. All housings out of an 01 or 02 will work because the elocker was never an option. This is good for you because a lot of people that do the elocker swap have their old housing sitting in their garage collecting dust and would be willing to sell it. In fact I ended up throwing mine away after my swap.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-...r-axle-housing-3rd-member-$200-tucson-az.html

I am willing to bet you also have 4.10 ratio.

 

[southsidewaterman]

Don't let this guy complicate things for you...

There are only two different axle housing styles and they are easy to identify. All you need is a non-elocker axle housing and then just swap your differential into the new one, OR This would also be a good time to find an elocker and housing if you are feeling ambitious! What is important is the housing needs to be from a non-elocker model 96-02 if you want to do a direct replacement. All housings out of an 01 or 02 will work because the elocker was never an option. This is good for you because a lot of people that do the elocker swap have their old housing sitting in their garage collecting dust and would be willing to sell it. In fact I ended up throwing mine away after my swap.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-...r-axle-housing-3rd-member-$200-tucson-az.html

I am willing to bet you also have 4.10 ratio.

Swapping out the axle for the wrong ratio could potentially have severe consequences if your 4runner is 4WD and you don't match ratios with your front axle.

Swapping out the differential into a new housing is a great idea, if that's an option for you.

That price for the AZ axle is awesome if it's still available--I actually messaged him a few months ago to tell him he's leaving money on the table at that price as, in my experience, the prices I had found ranged from $700 to $950.

This page may help clarify which axle you have.
http://www.sonoransteel.com/includes/templates/SonoranSteel/TechArticles/1996-2004ToyotaGearRatio.pdf

 

[sashcraft]

This is a common problem, especially in the NE. I work at a dealer (website photographer) and I see these everyday on 4Runners, Tacomas & Tundras. I watched a tech replace the rounded cover yesterday during a Tacoma frame replacement. He cut off the cover and welded a new one on. The owner had supplied his own replacement cover and it was 3/16" thick steel. They charged him 4 hours labor - $365.00. The steel on the OEM cover is about 1/8" thick. I don't know where the new cover was purchased but I can ask if you want.

I've also heard of people trying to repair the leaking by cleaning up the rust, applying a rust treatment, then adhering Fiberglass cloth with JB Weld smeared over the whole thing and then paint. Who knows how long something like this would last.

I opted to replace my whole rear end. I was lucky enough to find a complete assembly with the matching axle code and minimal rust. Shipped it in from out of state and had them swap it. Rear end assembly $500.00, shipping $250.00, labor $400.00. I have wire brushed and/or rust converted the whole assembly and have applied 6 coats of underbody paint to it. Tip: don't use the rubberized stuff here because it holds in the heat and can cause others problems. The key is keeping it painted and preventing any rust.

Of course, who knew this would be such a widespread problem? Not me. I had no idea the metal on a rear differential would corrode like that. Now I look under there everyday.

 

[Kenworth]

Buy a needle scaler clean all that rust off find pin holes and Start welding them up/I'm in Lancaster pa you find a rear end and buy the beer we can swap that out in my shop in a few hours no big deal

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Thanks for the reply. This may be a dumb question but if I were to clean it up like you said and find the holes. Would I need to drain the remaining gear oil that is in there in order for the the JB Weld stuff to adhere properly to the metal?? Cause it looks as if its seeping through the rust.

I was able to get the plug out to check & see if there was any fluid in there still. I stuck my finger in there & dipped it right into the gear oil. It was just below the plug hole. When I pulled my finger out it was dripping with it and was not hard at all to reach. I assume that is the correct way to check the fluid level?? So ive been told anyway but just wanna make sure. As much as it was leaking I would of thought there would be hardly any in there.

Ive never used the JB Weld b4 & have no idea how to use it, but I think I would definitely like try that. Who knows I might get lucky. I actually thought about cleaning it up like you said and using the putty stuff that hardens like metal, but there might be a lot of area to cover..

Yes you would have to drain it as it looks like your leak(s) are below the drain plug. Mine were not and it only leak out when I drove it. Be prepared as when you start removing the rust you might make it leak more. With that being said, I would leave the oil in there so when you start removing the rust, the hole(s) are evident. Also, after putting on the JB weld, you need to allow a good 12 hrs before refilling it. Then after you sure you got the leaks fixed put some POR 15 or the like on it. Also check the Dif breather. Good Luck

 

[Brique]

My .02: if you're going to do a quick fix, then do it with a plan to keep the truck and replace the axle properly later. Don't just jb weld the thing and then trade it. Some single mom is gonna buy it from the dealer thinking she's got a good deal on a reliable truck and you know the dealer isn't gonna tell her about it. Three months down the road if the quick fix fails she's sitting there in the same boat you are now with no way to afford a repair.

 

[Nelsonmd]

xcmtb is right, only 2 housings on the 4runner. This does assume that you are keeping your original diff, which there really isn't any reason why you shouldn't. Non-e-locked housings should be relatively plentiful, but you may have to go outside of your area if you're in the rust belt.

As for that Sonoran steel PDF, it is not a 100% lock on your gear ratio. If you notice, the same model code is listed twice very often with multiple options for which diff you'd have (my code could be either 4.10 or 4.3, I have a 4.3). You still need to check you gear ratio by measuring or counting teeth. Search here for the spin test and you will find the procedure for measuring, it's pretty easy.

If you don't want to swap out the entire rear end, then there are several replacement covers available that you can have welded on. If I were to go through this again, I would just get a thicker cover and weld it on. Again, search here and you will find a couple different models of cover, or just google it.

x a billion on the needle scaler. If you have a compressor, the needle scaler will be 10 times faster than an angle grinder with a twisted wire brush, and infinitely faster than chipping that crap off yourself. If I'd known how much faster it would have been, I'd have bought a compressor just for the needle scaler and then maybe I could have had a social life from aug-dec of 2009; who knows what possibilities I missed out on...:doh:

 

[JohnMc]

This reminds me, I *really* need to strip/descale/derust/repaint my rear axle.

It's not that bad yet, by far, but it's an easier fix now to prevent it than to fix it later.

 

[eric70412]

xcmtb is right, only 2 housings on the 4runner. This does assume that you are keeping your original diff, which there really isn't any reason why you shouldn't. Non-e-locked housings should be relatively plentiful, but you may have to go outside of your area if you're in the rust belt.

As for that Sonoran steel PDF, it is not a 100% lock on your gear ratio. If you notice, the same model code is listed twice very often with multiple options for which diff you'd have (my code could be either 4.10 or 4.3, I have a 4.3). You still need to check you gear ratio by measuring or counting teeth. Search here for the spin test and you will find the procedure for measuring, it's pretty easy.

If you don't want to swap out the entire rear end, then there are several replacement covers available that you can have welded on. If I were to go through this again, I would just get a thicker cover and weld it on. Again, search here and you will find a couple different models of cover, or just google it.

x a billion on the needle scaler. If you have a compressor, the needle scaler will be 10 times faster than an angle grinder with a twisted wire brush, and infinitely faster than chipping that crap off yourself. If I'd known how much faster it would have been, I'd have bought a compressor just for the needle scaler and then maybe I could have had a social life from aug-dec of 2009; who knows what possibilities I missed out on...:doh:

What is a needle scaler & where would I get one?

 

[Nelsonmd]

What is a needle scaler & where would I get one?

It's a pneumatic chisel basically, but it has a bunch of little chisels and is blunted.

Air Needle Scaler & Other Needle Scalers - Harbor Freight Tools
Compact Air Needle Scaler

I have the compact one and it is a pretty good size for most stuff on the 4runner, though I wouldn't mind having a little more oomf if the full size provides that.

 

[eric70412]

Yes you would have to drain it as it looks like your leak(s) are below the drain plug. Mine were not and it only leak out when I drove it. Be prepared as when you start removing the rust you might make it leak more. With that being said, I would leave the oil in there so when you start removing the rust, the hole(s) are evident. Also, after putting on the JB weld, you need to allow a good 12 hrs before refilling it. Then after you sure you got the leaks fixed put some POR 15 or the like on it. Also check the Dif breather. Good Luck

Any Idea what the drain bolt size would be?? Going to go buy a socket to fit it and try and see if it will budge. I doubt its ever been removed. If I can get it lose I will go ahead with trying the repair.. Thanks