Rear Hatch "handle"

One thing I've noticed is that my 4Runner's liftgate seems to require much more effort to close than other SUVs. Specifically, this is the effort to pull the hatch down about 60% of the way. Once it's that far down, gravity and the auto-closing mechanism take over.

I noticed it last week at our local auto show. I took a close look at all of the other mid-size SUV contenders -- the Explorer, Jeep GC, Trailblazer, Pathfinder, Pilot, etc. and their hatches seemed far easier to close.

That being said -- I'm just careful when I close the hatch. Mine is white, so fingerprints aren't that big of an issue, and I don't wear any rings that could mar the paint.
 
qs933 said:


I noticed it last week at our local auto show. I took a close look at all of the other mid-size SUV contenders -- the Explorer, Jeep GC, Trailblazer, Pathfinder, Pilot, etc. and their hatches seemed far easier to close.

.

It has to do with the different type of shock they use depend on how heavy the rear hatch it.I'm sure the 4R rear hatch is heaver then all the SUV you mention cause it has the roll down rear window and the other don't. I'm sure once the shock wear in it will be a lot easy to close.
 
Close effort of the rear gate is overcoming the counterbalance force of the gas stays or springs. You will find that this effort is tied directly to the prevailing ambient temperature. [The internal pressure of the gas stays follow idea gas laws for the more technically inclined.] So to get the gate to stay up when it's real cold, there is overforce at higher temperatures. Also, gas constantly leaks over time, and you will find the lifting force deteriorates over the years and eventually during the winter months the gate won't stay up anymore.

I do find the 4runner gate force somewhat higher than average. You might notice that the gate doesn't go into a negative balance at the end of close like most gate do. Negative balance is used to help slam the gate closed. With the cinching latch this is unnecessary.
 
headscratch.gif
 
why not buy a handle and mount in on the liscense plate screws, might need to use longer screws but I've seen plenty of handles in HomeDepot that one could pick up spray paint with some paint and put on.

Biggest problem might be the force of pushing down on the new handle might snap the screws holding it on, gonna have to somehow bolt it on tight without damage to the rear tailgate
 
EDGE said:
why not buy a handle and mount in on the liscense plate screws, might need to use longer screws but I've seen plenty of handles in HomeDepot that one could pick up spray paint with some paint and put on.

Biggest problem might be the force of pushing down on the new handle might snap the screws holding it on, gonna have to somehow bolt it on tight without damage to the rear tailgate
See - just like I suggested - Home Depot! LOL
 
TeryT said:
Just go to Home Depot. Get a cabinet handle & some sheet metal screws. Drill a couple holes in the tailgate & viola! Eventually the holes will probably strip out, but just fill the holes with Liquid Nails & mount the handle somewhere else. There's enough space on the tailgate to move the handle around dozens of times!

Seriously, if you don't want to drill holes in the tailgate, just get a rope & tie to the rear wiper. Not one of those knarley lookin hemp ropes - get a good nylon one so it will look pretty.

I missed that LMAO, sure I would try a permanent solution without just drilling random holes all over the door but then again your idea will just eventually scare everyone away from parking or driving next to you:arrow:

Next up should be some chrome exterior handles outside the front and rear doors, take the oh shit grab handles to the next level;):
 
jason952's suggestion one of the best commercially available (and attractive) solutions for this problem. (the clearbra material on the lower part of the lid is idea is good too - Will see if my tint shop will give me some scrap clearbra material from one of their jobs) Also Might be ordering one of these handles myself tho...
 

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bryancos said:
jason952's suggestion is by far the best commercially available (and attractive) solution for this problem. I think I'll be ordering one myself! I have a license plate cover installed and was just using it when closing the liftgate, but too much pressure can crack the face... This handle makes much more sense and it's inexpensive.
I'm cut that you didn't like my suggestion of a cabinet handle & Liquid Nails! :lmao:
 
Perhaps this application is by far the best. However, correct me if I am wrong. There are only 2 (upper) holes for the license plate that are plastic anchor type. With this modification, which I am seriously contemplating, I would have to apply adhesive weatherstrip to the back of the bracket as wellas with the plate.
 
bryancos said:
jason952's suggestion one of the best commercially available (and attractive) solutions for this problem. (the clearbra material on the lower part of the lid is idea is good too - Will see if my tint shop will give me some scrap clearbra material from one of their jobs) Also Might be ordering one of these handles myself tho...

Would this work? Do we have bolts at the bottom of the plate to attach one of these?
 
I have large rubber bump stops installed behind the plate to keep it away from the tailgate, (the kind used for electronics) so I can still attach the handle to the lower bolts that are on the license plate cover that I already have.
 
qs933 said:
One thing I've noticed is that my 4Runner's liftgate seems to require much more effort to close than other SUVs. Specifically, this is the effort to pull the hatch down about 60% of the way. Once it's that far down, gravity and the auto-closing mechanism take over.

I like how strong the shocks for this are. The cars i have had in the past had weak ones that wouldnt open the gate up all the way and i would always hit my head:bash: I dont find closing the gate to be too difficult. Just grab the gate and give it enough of a fling that the auto latch grabs.
 

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