Rearview camera mod WITH NAV

I want to do this on my 2010 Nav unit. A few questions about the switch options:
1. If the SPDT switch is one that has an ON-OFF-ON configuration, where its off if in the center position, does putting the switch in the center (OFF) position cause the nav screen to not have any backup cam image at all, even if I'm in reverse? And then the first "ON" side is "stock" as if the switch were never installed, and the other direction "ON" is always-on? Or should I just be looking at ones that are just ON-ON?? It's not clear to me if the RadioShack one is ON-OFF-ON or just ON-ON type switch.
2. Does the amperage rating of these switches matter? The RadioShack one that was used here is rated at 3amp at 125VAC, but some if the ones I see online are higher amperage ratings....?

Here are a few I was looking at:
round ON-OFF-ON
rectangular ON-ON
rectangular ON-OFF-ON

Any help is appreciated!

You're going to want an SPDT "ON-ON" switch because if you get the "ON-OFF-ON" you will end up with the middle position that disconnects everything and will cause the rear view camera to not activate at all (even when you put it in reverse).

With an "ON-ON" you have it either flipped to work like stock, or a manual override to be on all the time.

Check out this schematic and I think you will get what I am saying:

http://www.delcity.net/images/linedrawings/7500021.pdf

Also when shopping for switches make sure they are not "momentary on", because that means you need to hold the button down for it to stay on, which kind of defeats the intended purpose of this mod, lol.

I am not sure what size/shape you are looking for but if you need me to look it over before you find the one you like, shoot me a PM and I'd be glad to see if you're ordering the right one :)
 
Problem!

Thanks! Well, I just finished the mod, and it works fine, but the 4LO light and the trac light on the right side of dash are now illuminated. The check engine light is on now too. Car drives fine, despite the 4LO light blinking. I'm gonna undo the mod and see if it fixes it. I may have fried the switch during soldering...I usd the RadioShack one FWIW. I tried disconnecting the battery for thirty minutes but no dice.

I double and triple checked that the correct wires were hooked up etc. too...

Suggestions?

EDIT: it must have been the switch, because I hooked it back up to the stock configuration and dash lights all normal. i will pick up another one soon and update again....
 
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Thanks! Well, I just finished the mod, and it works fine, but the 4LO light and the trac light on the right side of dash are now illuminated. The check engine light is on now too. Car drives fine, despite the 4LO light blinking. I'm gonna undo the mod and see if it fixes it. I may have fried the switch during soldering...I usd the RadioShack one FWIW. I tried disconnecting the battery for thirty minutes but no dice.

I double and triple checked that the correct wires were hooked up etc. too...

Suggestions?

EDIT: it must have been the switch, because I hooked it back up to the stock configuration and dash lights all normal. i will pick up another one soon and update again....

Did you check to make sure the switch was wired up correctly? I think someone earlier in this thread described the same exact problem as you and it turned out he wired something wrong...I THINK, it might have been that he fed the 12v straight into the reverse feed instead of into the back of the head unit. Anyway, hope you have better luck with the new switch :)
 
Thanks! Well, I just finished the mod, and it works fine, but the 4LO light and the trac light on the right side of dash are now illuminated. The check engine light is on now too. Car drives fine, despite the 4LO light blinking. I'm gonna undo the mod and see if it fixes it. I may have fried the switch during soldering...I usd the RadioShack one FWIW. I tried disconnecting the battery for thirty minutes but no dice.

I double and triple checked that the correct wires were hooked up etc. too...

Suggestions?

EDIT: it must have been the switch, because I hooked it back up to the stock configuration and dash lights all normal. i will pick up another one soon and update again....

Did you check to make sure the switch was wired up correctly? I think someone earlier in this thread described the same exact problem as you and it turned out he wired something wrong...I THINK, it might have been that he fed the 12v straight into the reverse feed instead of into the back of the head unit. Anyway, hope you have better luck with the new switch :)

What you are describing will happen if you hook up the red wire backwards. This is from my first post in this thread;

SPDT switch. Cut red wire. Clip side of red wire to center of switch. Harness side of red wire to outside pole of switch (either side). Tap into blue wire and attach to other outside pole of switch.

When the red wire is cut, the side that is still connected to the main wiring harness MUST be attached to an OUTSIDE pole on the switch; NOT the center pole. Wiring this backwards makes the truck "think" it's in reverse while traveling forward and the computer has a hissy, LOL.

Try it again!
 
What you are describing will happen if you hook up the red wire backwards. This is from my first post in this thread;

SPDT switch. Cut red wire. Clip side of red wire to center of switch. Harness side of red wire to outside pole of switch (either side). Tap into blue wire and attach to other outside pole of switch.

When the red wire is cut, the side that is still connected to the main wiring harness MUST be attached to an OUTSIDE pole on the switch; NOT the center pole. Wiring this backwards makes the truck "think" it's in reverse while traveling forward and the computer has a hissy, LOL.

Try it again!

Luckily it's just a hissy fit and not a smoke show, lol. I am so paranoid working on wiring with these newer vehicles and all there expensive electronics :(
 
Thanks [MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION] and [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] for your tips! And also thanks for doing this mod before I tried it!!! As it turns out, I did have it wired correct. The problem was that I ruined the RadioShack switch the first two times with the soldering iron. That switch is not very robust and CLEARLY is not heat resistant at all. Either that, or I bought two defective ones in a row. Anyways, I bought a third one and was super careful with the soldering iron and it works perfectly!

Word to others out there. If you use this particular switch, be very careful when soldering.

Another caution...if you have a Limited, and try to drive after unhooking the cable from the 4x4 transfer knob, your vehicle's center diff might lock itself until you hook it back up. Or it might not. LOL!

I have a few pics I will post soon hopefully.

Bottom line...great mod!!! Again, thanks to everybody who took the plunge before I did!
 
Here is the method I fallowed to ad the VTR input option on my 13' Entune, it works the same. -->Found 2012 Camry Audio/Video Input! - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


Now I am building a VSS override bypass box to be able to watch while in motion (as it is becomes locked out while in motion, blue screen) and use full nav features anytime as well.

**edit** When I am finished, I will make a new thread as to not clutter up this thread and confuse the two mods.
 
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Some we're asking about a factory looking switch for the backup camera anytime mod, I definitely recommend looking at otrattw

2m4aed5.jpg
 
I did the rear camera mod!

And it works great. Thanks to everyone who went before me, especially Antman and those with pictures! Without your blazing work, I wouldn't have attempted this. And, it'll come in handy when I'm pulling the flat-bed trailer.

But, While I had the NAV unit hanging exposed, it fell down and jerked a small coax cable out of its connector. The cable goes into a square connector, and is crimped. I doubt I can repair it, and wonder what I broke. It's the smaller coax cable covered in foam.

It looks like the GPS antenna cable. GPS still works, sorta, but it's off by several miles. Does anyone know where the GPS antenna is? Hopefully it's not in the sharkfin. I suspect I'll have to get a whole assembly unless I can find a replacement connector and crimp or solder it to the end of the cable. The cable pulled out of the connector at the back of the NAV unit.

Thanks,
John
 
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VTR in

Reviving this old thread to see if anyone else did the same mod as [MENTION=87226]NorthWest 4R[/MENTION] for video in (VTR Option). I have a 2012 Trail and was going to attempt this mod this weekend and was wondering if the wire colors were the same between the camary and 4runner.
 
Reviving this old thread to see if anyone else did the same mod as [MENTION=87226]NorthWest 4R[/MENTION] for video in (VTR Option). I have a 2012 Trail and was going to attempt this mod this weekend and was wondering if the wire colors were the same between the camary and 4runner.
Is your entune or JBL?

I added camera input to my JBL by doing the mod from this thread, and adding a double pole switch for the black and white wires in the G20 connector, which are the camera signal wires.
 
Just want to say I did is mod in my '14 Limited today. Thanks to the pioneers who paved the way to make this so easy!

Since the '14s don't have party mode, the blank where the PM button used to be was the perfect spot for this switch:

hAAxEJ3.jpg


I drove around for about ten minutes and it never timed out. Somewhere back in this thread or the original it said that after five minutes it would turn off the camera but that was not the case with the 2014 Entune setup.
 
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Single Pole Single Throw ON - OFF PUSH switch

Would that work?

I believe that it will work but the wiring is different and requires a diode to make it function as intended. If you read through this whole thread you'll find explicit instructions for wiring it with a SPST switch.
 
So I just did this mod on my 2013 Limited. Worked exactly like OP said. I used a SPDT switch with an OFF position. So it stays in reverse camera mode until I EITHER turn it to the OFF position, OR to the other ON position, which enables the SHIFT to reverse camera.

While at this, since I had the center console removed anyway, I ran a wire from the glove box cigarette lighter to the center console and connected a two port usb charger there.

I have the reverse camera and the two port USB charger at the center cubby. Never understand why they build the center cubby anyway, it is very much useless.

Ok,...I am about 90% certain that the below picture is the correct plug and pins you need to splice into for the rear camera mod, but of course my car is not operational so I can't verify these pins during actual operation.

...It appears that most of the wiring harnesses are pretty similar between the 2010 and 2012 models throughout the vehicle, and only some wires were moved around to accommodate newer components.

The plug you are looking for is a 28 pin white plug, it should be pretty much self explanatory because this is the only plug back there that looks like this.

...
If the signals on each pin turn out to be correct according to your DMM, then the rest of the mod should be smooth sailing from there...(1) cut the red wire, (2) connect the nav end of the red wire to center pole of the SPDT, (2) connect the harness end of the red wire to one of the switched poles of the SPDT, (3) don't cut and just tap into the blue wire and connect that to the remaining switched pole of the SPDT.
...

If I beat you to this mod, I will of course update this thread, but please note that I work at a snail's pace when it comes to all things car related so don't hold your breath :p
 
This mod is on my to do list as well. I was planning on using one of the air on board switches like this.....

12 Volt 3amp ON-OFF Toyota OEM Replacement Push Switch with LED blue lights -Air On Board

Single Pole Single Throw ON - OFF PUSH switch

Would that work?

I will be using the same Air on Board switch. However, I will not be using the diode option. I will use a change over relay.



-Red reverse signal wire cut from radio on relay terminal 30
-Red reverse signal wire cut from harness on relay terminal 87A
-12V signal on relay terminal 87
-Air on board on-off switch wire on relay terminal 85
-12V on relay terminal 86

With the switch off, the relay will hold the original circuit
With the switch on, the relay will activate the new circuit and turn on the camera.

This is just one of many options. The diode option will eliminate the need of installing a relay. In my case I will already be installing a relay box in the cab for other systems and have 2 spare relay circuits to tap into!
 
I will be using the same Air on Board switch. However, I will not be using the diode option. I will use a change over relay.

I can’t see any real reason for that clean, simple and proved to be reliably working with diode mod, to make it more complicated with relay. :confused:
It's less reliable and will take unnecessary current, when ON.
In addition, you may end up with more wiring, and probably get video or audio noise on you NAV affected by relay....
 
I will be using the same Air on Board switch. However, I will not be using the diode option. I will use a change over relay.

I can’t see any real reason for that clean, simple and proved to be reliably working with diode mod, to make it more complicated with relay. :confused:
It's less reliable and will take unnecessary current, when ON.
In addition, you may end up with more wiring, and probably get video or audio noise on you NAV affected by relay....

You bring up some good points. I have yet to start this mod but when I do I will get a build thread going and prove or disprove yet another way to do this.

My bigger concern is the possibility of voiding the warranty on the NAV system with this mod. I am already going to take the 4R to the dealer as my sound is fading very intermittently for about 10 sec. If I had the wires tapped into the harness at the back of the NAV system they might not cover the diagnosis and repair of this issue. If they are unable to duplicate my issue this could drag out until the problem gets worse before they replace something (likely the NAV unit).

As such, I will definitely not be tapping into the wires at the back of the NAV unit. And, I will tie the mod into my rear lights switch not a rear camera switch so that it is not obvious that I have messed with the camera circuit. ...And, with the relay approach, I can simply remove the relay and add a jumper wire across terminals 87a and 30 to undo the mod. this way no technician at the dealer can play with my switches and find that I have modded the camera circuit.

I was a mechanic at various GM dealerships for 8 years and it was not uncommon for us to void warranties due to mods. Also, on two occasions that I can remember the dealership voided warranties on components that were not even problematic just because they saw that they were modded!!!
 
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YodaPride, whatewer mod you will do with back up camera, you MAST to cut or tap to that red wire. And that may void warranty.... I think the best way is to fix existing problem under warranty, and just then to start your mods.

P.S :
If I will automotive engineer, the first think I will do is to replace all outdated relays with "diods". Modern technologies are able to replace all relays and fuses in the cars by smart electronics, that is way much reliable and chipper then existing "fuse & relay boxes"
 

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