Redarc brake controller install

[DragonRunner]

Be advised Redarc now offers this harness : TPH-021. Supposed to be direct from 4Runner harness to Redarc.

I of course bought the Redarc tekonsha harness, not the tekonsha harness (3040-P), and completely overlooked the new offering by redarc. I therefor have nothing. Back to Amazon I go…

 

[4Reak Show]

Be advised Redarc now offers this harness : TPH-021. Supposed to be direct from 4Runner harness to Redarc.

I of course bought the Redarc tekonsha harness, not the tekonsha harness (3040-P), and completely overlooked the new offering by redarc. I therefor have nothing. Back to Amazon I go…

Awesome. Any idea if it solves the false ABS warnings you get if you perform a trailer brake override command for more than 5 seconds?

What happens is the brake controller backfeeds the trailer’s and truck’s brake lights during the override function (all brake controllers do this). But the truck’s computers see the brake lights on without the brake pedal physically engaged so it flags an issue.

Some folks claim a couple diodes and/or relay may be needed in order for a brake controller to only engage the trailer’s lights during override.

As a test, hold down the override button without pushing the brake pedal. In about 5-7 seconds ABS and other lights will come on. They go off after turning off engine and restarting.

 

[DannyLlama]

Be advised Redarc now offers this harness : TPH-021. Supposed to be direct from 4Runner harness to Redarc.

I of course bought the Redarc tekonsha harness, not the tekonsha harness (3040-P), and completely overlooked the new offering by redarc. I therefor have nothing. Back to Amazon I go…

Thanks for sharing, let us know how the install goes.

My redarc has to be recalibrated for some reason every time i hook up the trailer. Not sure if anyone else has that issue.

 

[fourrunnerbill]

I don't know about a 2020 but I just installed the Elite on my 2016 Trail but used REDARC's Toyota cable that connects to the OEM connector without any mods. They also have a Toyota knob insert that also fits right in the blanks without doing any cutting. I was able to try it a few weeks back and I'm very happy with this controller and installation. The clean knob really makes for a clean look on this design.

 

[jmcelroy]

I installed the Redarc today. Took about 1.5 hours because I'm uppity about nice wiring and plumbing.

Used the TPH-021 harness that plugged directly into the port above the parking brake area. Used the vehicle specific knock-out plug to mount the dial nicely. Good piece of kit, both.

Rather than mount the box on the side panel near the accelerator as many in this thread have done, I mounted it vertically against a module in the left side of the dash at about the height of the steering column. Right above the parking brake pivot point. Used GoPro/3M mounting tape. Fits nicely, short wire run to both the dial and the towing port.

Everything tested out fine once done. The trailer plug tester (LED) I used does *not* trick the tow controller into thinking the trailer is attached so I hooked up to our camper. All good with one exception noted earlier in this thread: No brake lights at the truck or the camper when using the tow module brake override. Can't say I care much about this but maybe I'll get bored in the future and setup a diode and relay between the electric brakes and brake lights on the camper.

I had been using the Curt Echo for the last year but I find it tedious. The brake application curve (voltage curve) is horrible, intermittently being weaker than expected or too strong. Bluetooth connectivity can be spotty. It protrudes too far downward given the orientation of the 4Runner 7-pin jack too. Think I'll sell it on to someone else.

Reading this thread was helpful. Thanks all for your contributions.

Jason

 

[4Reak Show]

I installed the Redarc today....
Used the TPH-021 harness...
Everything tested out fine once done. The trailer plug tester (LED) I used does *not* trick the tow controller into thinking the trailer is attached so I hooked up to our camper. All good with one exception noted earlier in this thread: No brake lights at the truck or the camper when using the tow module brake override. Can't say I care much about this but maybe I'll get bored in the future and setup a diode and relay between the electric brakes and brake lights on the camper.

Good info thanks for checking in. So I don’t know which state you’re in but I think CA requires trailer brake lights operate when engaging trailer brakes manually. That’s just an FYI for legal nonsense yadda yadda

That being said it would seem this Redarc harness must have a diode to prevent backfeeding the brake light circuit. Interesting. I know for a fact I used the factory pigtail and wired it directly to Redarc pigtail and I can make it give me the ABS light issue. So this new harness would, and does appear to solve the phantom ABS light issue however does present a possible legal problem or whatever if stopped by CHP. Probably rare. But just wanted to inform everyone of a PSA.

It would suck to use the trailer brakes manually but then not have the trailer brake lights illuminate and then you get rear ended. Not sure if that’s any worse than ABS potentially not working due to a phantom code. Toyota should really address this. We hard wired a rav4 at work with a prodigy and it had the ABS light issue too. Seems like software could fix it. Oh well.

Again thanks for updating.

 

[DragonRunner]

Awesome. Any idea if it solves the false ABS warnings you get if you perform a trailer brake override command for more than 5 seconds?

What happens is the brake controller backfeeds the trailer’s and truck’s brake lights during the override function (all brake controllers do this). But the truck’s computers see the brake lights on without the brake pedal physically engaged so it flags an issue.

Some folks claim a couple diodes and/or relay may be needed in order for a brake controller to only engage the trailer’s lights during override.

As a test, hold down the override button without pushing the brake pedal. In about 5-7 seconds ABS and other lights will come on. They go off after turning off engine and restarting.

That seems terrible. Did you write to RedArc by chance?

 

[007Tacoma]

Awesome. Any idea if it solves the false ABS warnings you get if you perform a trailer brake override command for more than 5 seconds?

What happens is the brake controller backfeeds the trailer’s and truck’s brake lights during the override function (all brake controllers do this). But the truck’s computers see the brake lights on without the brake pedal physically engaged so it flags an issue.

Some folks claim a couple diodes and/or relay may be needed in order for a brake controller to only engage the trailer’s lights during override.

As a test, hold down the override button without pushing the brake pedal. In about 5-7 seconds ABS and other lights will come on. They go off after turning off engine and restarting.

So... I haven't had this issue, and I've done "drag brake" turns with my 4Runner accelerating and the trailer brakes locked up.

Now, I need to go hook up my trailer and try it all again to see if this happens. Also, does this happen in 2WD or 4WD(lo/hi)?

 

[007Tacoma]

Thanks for sharing, let us know how the install goes.

My redarc has to be recalibrated for some reason every time i hook up the trailer. Not sure if anyone else has that issue.

Mine does not do this, but it only recalibrates when the trailer is connected. They told me it calibrates with or without the trailer, but that has not been my experience.

I did notice that if the battery voltage gets too low (11V or less) that the controller loses its calibration. I run a dual zone fridge full time in my 4Runner, and I can knock it down to 10.5V if there is no sun for the solar panels over the course of a weekend of sitting parked.

 

[jmcelroy]

All,

I've created a diagram which shows how to alter your trailer wiring to provide for:
- trailer brake lights illuminating when override brake actuated
- not feeding back brake light voltage back to the tow vehicle
- supports shared use of right and left turn signal lamps as brake lamps
- provides full voltage to brake lamps independent of voltage at brake controller output

Probably about $20 in parts and an hour's work. Common 4 (or 5) post 12V auto relay. Four diodes. 10A diodes (overkill) are a couple bucks on Amazon.

Diagram indicates modifications in dotted lines.

I used a similar scheme to setup brake lights on my motorcycle top case when I started commuting up 101 from San Jose to work every day.

Jason

 

[4Reak Show]

So... I haven't had this issue, and I've done "drag brake" turns with my 4Runner accelerating and the trailer brakes locked up.

Now, I need to go hook up my trailer and try it all again to see if this happens. Also, does this happen in 2WD or 4WD(lo/hi)?

2wd for sure as far as I know. And it’s been reported with various brake controllers not just the Redarc. The key to getting the issue to pop up is holding the override button and not touching the brakes at all for like 5-7 seconds. It happened to me at a stand still while in drive. It may be that when rolling at any speed it doesn’t happen. I haven’t played around to know.

Manual override is only really necessary if the trailer sways and I have a pretty badass anti sway hitch so I’ve never had to actually use the override other than setting the brakes initially.

All,

I've created a diagram which shows how to alter your trailer wiring to provide for:
- trailer brake lights illuminating when override brake actuated
- not feeding back brake light voltage back to the tow vehicle
- supports shared use of right and left turn signal lamps as brake lamps
- provides full voltage to brake lamps independent of voltage at brake controller output

Probably about $20 in parts and an hour's work. Common 4 (or 5) post 12V auto relay. Four diodes. 10A diodes (overkill) are a couple bucks on Amazon.

Diagram indicates modifications in dotted lines.

I used a similar scheme to setup brake lights on my motorcycle top case when I started commuting up 101 from San Jose to work every day.

Jason

Well, looks like that would do it as long as the backfeed source (for the non-fancy new harness folks) occurs on the trailer side. If the brake controller instead feeds back thru it’s trigger wire (from brake pedal) this probably wouldn’t solve it since truck brake lights would still illuminate without the pedal pushed defying the computers logic. Another diode on the feed/trigger line to brake controller would solve that potentially. And that’s probably what the new harness has inside right? That’s why brake lights don’t work during manual override with the new harness from the looks of it.

The other issue is using the brake blue wire to fire a relay. That line is a varied voltage based on brake controller setting and even manual override only goes up to your specified brake setting to my knowledge. So if the relay doesn’t fire below let’s say 6 volts and the controller is set to roughly 50% of max output, there may not be enough voltage at the blue line to actually get the relay to operate. Maybe I dont know. Looks like someone has to test it out. I could totally be wrong.

That seems terrible. Did you write to RedArc by chance?

It’s not a Redarc issue. The Redarc (or any brake controller) is supposed to illuminate brake lights when manually engaging override function.

the issue is that the brake pedal on the 4Runner has multiple sensors and feeds multiple systems. So basically, the truck’s computers see the brake lights illuminated but the computer doesn’t verify the brake pedal is the source, or in another way, sees the brake pedal ISNT being pushed yet the lights are on.

 

[007Tacoma]

All,

I've created a diagram which shows how to alter your trailer wiring to provide for:
- trailer brake lights illuminating when override brake actuated
- not feeding back brake light voltage back to the tow vehicle
- supports shared use of right and left turn signal lamps as brake lamps
- provides full voltage to brake lamps independent of voltage at brake controller output

Probably about $20 in parts and an hour's work. Common 4 (or 5) post 12V auto relay. Four diodes. 10A diodes (overkill) are a couple bucks on Amazon.

Diagram indicates modifications in dotted lines.

I used a similar scheme to setup brake lights on my motorcycle top case when I started commuting up 101 from San Jose to work every day.

Jason

It may be overkill... but I like it!

I'll be doing this. THANKS!!!

 

[007Tacoma]

It’s not a Redarc issue. The Redarc (or any brake controller) is supposed to illuminate brake lights when manually engaging override function.

the issue is that the brake pedal on the 4Runner has multiple sensors and feeds multiple systems. So basically, the truck’s computers see the brake lights illuminated but the computer doesn’t verify the brake pedal is the source, or in another way, sees the brake pedal ISNT being pushed yet the lights are on.

That makes sense. I need to experiment with this a bit more to find out what is going on, and see if I need fix it or just be aware of it.

 

[4Reak Show]

That makes sense. I need to experiment with this a bit more to find out what is going on, and see if I need fix it or just be aware of it.

So the phantom ABS light issue Probably isn’t going to occur with the new Redarc harness since it appears there is a diode or something to prevent the brake lights from activating during override.

So that’s where the suggested diode/relay install would be the next attempt

 

[jmcelroy]

The other issue is using the brake blue wire to fire a relay. That line is a varied voltage based on brake controller setting and even manual override only goes up to your specified brake setting to my knowledge. So if the relay doesn’t fire below let’s say 6 volts and the controller is set to roughly 50% of max output, there may not be enough voltage at the blue line to actually get the relay to operate. Maybe I dont know. Looks like someone has to test it out. I could totally be wrong.

You make a good point. I had not considered the energizing voltage (pull-in) threshold to make the relay function. I looked it up and it seems pull-in is usually around 8-9VDC for these 12V relays so not a great candidate. I was going to test last night . . . but real life got in the way.

Can't find any documentation to support but can we assume that brake controller output on blue wire is between 3VDC and 12VDC depending on mode and pedal force applied?

Anyone got facts here?

I looked up a 6V relay and it may have the right specs to work for this use case.

Nominal Voltage: 6 VDC
Operate Voltage: 3.9 VDC MAX
Release Voltage: 0.6 VDC Min
Operate Time: 8 mSEC Max
Release Time: 8 mSEC Max
Temp Range: Operating -40 C to +85 C
Contact Arrangement: 1 Form C (SPDT)
Contact Material: AgSnO Silver Tin Oxide
Contact Millvolt Drop: 200mv @ 35A
Max Make Current: 90A/30A @ 16 VDC
Max Break Current: 40A/30A @ 16 VDC Resistive
Max Continuous Current: 40A/30A @ 23 C, 35A/25A @ 85C
Initial Breakdown Current: 500V RMS Contact to Coil
Expected Life: 100.000 Operation 40A 14 VDC Resistive on Normally Open Contact
SPDT(31.6x26.5x50.8)mm Plug-In​

I hear you on this being a tow vehicle wiring problem and not a controller issue. I don't know enough about it to weigh in but it seems reasonable. Given that the pinouts for all of the tow controllers I've looked up only have brake pedal signal as input and trailer connector (blue wire) as output, it seems even more reasonable.

Guess I'm gonna not gonna have override lights on my camper.

Thanks for your research on this.

Jason

 

[4Reak Show]

You make a good point. I had not considered the energizing voltage (pull-in) threshold to make the relay function. I looked it up and it seems pull-in is usually around 8-9VDC for these 12V relays so not a great candidate. I was going to test last night . . . but real life got in the way.

Can't find any documentation to support but can we assume that brake controller output on blue wire is between 3VDC and 12VDC depending on mode and pedal force applied?

Anyone got facts here?

I looked up a 6V relay and it may have the right specs to work for this use case.

Nominal Voltage: 6 VDC
Operate Voltage: 3.9 VDC MAX
Release Voltage: 0.6 VDC Min
Operate Time: 8 mSEC Max
Release Time: 8 mSEC Max
Temp Range: Operating -40 C to +85 C
Contact Arrangement: 1 Form C (SPDT)
Contact Material: AgSnO Silver Tin Oxide
Contact Millvolt Drop: 200mv @ 35A
Max Make Current: 90A/30A @ 16 VDC
Max Break Current: 40A/30A @ 16 VDC Resistive
Max Continuous Current: 40A/30A @ 23 C, 35A/25A @ 85C
Initial Breakdown Current: 500V RMS Contact to Coil
Expected Life: 100.000 Operation 40A 14 VDC Resistive on Normally Open Contact
SPDT(31.6x26.5x50.8)mm Plug-In​

I hear you on this being a tow vehicle wiring problem and not a controller issue. I don't know enough about it to weigh in but it seems reasonable. Given that the pinouts for all of the tow controllers I've looked up only have brake pedal signal as input and trailer connector (blue wire) as output, it seems even more reasonable.

Guess I'm gonna not gonna have override lights on my camper.

Thanks for your research on this.

Jason

Yeah it’s big bummer that Toyota computer logic can’t see passed it.

To answer your question on brake controller operation, they have inertia sensors so really the pedal application input is just on or off. The force with which the pedal is applied is calculated via the inertia sensor in the brake controller. The settings I would guess range from 0 volts to charging voltage (13-14volts?) In my trailer set up I run Redarc at about 4 on the dial so what’s that like 40% give or take of max? So on light brake application (less extreme inertia/momentum shift present) the brake controller is going to apply UP TO that 40% mark. So even less than the 5 or so volts.

But all we’re concerned with is manual override which does the full value of which you have it set. So the 40% in my case during manual override. During normal braking the brake lights operate just fine remember. We’re ONLY concerned with manual override having the issues.

Therefore it’s unlikely to ever be much less than the 5 or so volts for most folks with these 4runners. But it could be higher I would guess.

Meaning even further, your 6 volt relay idea would probably work just fine.

The idea I came up with used a seperate feed line off of the back-feed principle through the trigger line stated earlier since we know the brake input is a 12v feed we could use for a relay

I say “magic box” because on a trailer the turn/brake is the same light but on the 4runner they’re seperate. Somewhere they combine. On my 95 4Runner there’s a magic box you buy to install between tail lights and trailer plug that combines it all.

Basically you mimmick the feed source to the plug instead of the output source. Still need 3 diodes and a relay and run of wire to and from the 7 way plug and brake controller. Pain in the ass regardless.

 

[Scuba6]

TPSI-002 REDARC Tow-Pro Switch Insert Panel

Thanks for all the great info in this thread. I'm looking at installing one of these as I prep for a likely RV purchase.

Can anyone confirm that the TPSI-002 switch insert panel fits a 2011 LE?

The Redarc site shows it as fitting 2014 and later, but the sizing seems to be right for my 2011. I'm hoping to confirm before purchase.

EDIT: It does fit.

Thanks.

 

[2021nightshade4x4]

Yeah it’s big bummer that Toyota computer logic can’t see passed it.

To answer your question on brake controller operation, they have inertia sensors so really the pedal application input is just on or off. The force with which the pedal is applied is calculated via the inertia sensor in the brake controller. The settings I would guess range from 0 volts to charging voltage (13-14volts?) In my trailer set up I run Redarc at about 4 on the dial so what’s that like 40% give or take of max? So on light brake application (less extreme inertia/momentum shift present) the brake controller is going to apply UP TO that 40% mark. So even less than the 5 or so volts.

But all we’re concerned with is manual override which does the full value of which you have it set. So the 40% in my case during manual override. During normal braking the brake lights operate just fine remember. We’re ONLY concerned with manual override having the issues.

Therefore it’s unlikely to ever be much less than the 5 or so volts for most folks with these 4runners. But it could be higher I would guess.

Meaning even further, your 6 volt relay idea would probably work just fine.

The idea I came up with used a seperate feed line off of the back-feed principle through the trigger line stated earlier since we know the brake input is a 12v feed we could use for a relay

I say “magic box” because on a trailer the turn/brake is the same light but on the 4runner they’re seperate. Somewhere they combine. On my 95 4Runner there’s a magic box you buy to install between tail lights and trailer plug that combines it all.

Basically you mimmick the feed source to the plug instead of the output source. Still need 3 diodes and a relay and run of wire to and from the 7 way plug and brake controller. Pain in the ass regardless.

I suppose this is where Diode Dynamics got their “tail as turn” product idea.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SeedyBear]

I installed the Redarc today. Took about 1.5 hours because I'm uppity about nice wiring and plumbing.

Used the TPH-021 harness that plugged directly into the port above the parking brake area. Used the vehicle specific knock-out plug to mount the dial nicely. Good piece of kit, both.

Rather than mount the box on the side panel near the accelerator as many in this thread have done, I mounted it vertically against a module in the left side of the dash at about the height of the steering column. Right above the parking brake pivot point. Used GoPro/3M mounting tape. Fits nicely, short wire run to both the dial and the towing port.

Everything tested out fine once done. The trailer plug tester (LED) I used does *not* trick the tow controller into thinking the trailer is attached so I hooked up to our camper. All good with one exception noted earlier in this thread: No brake lights at the truck or the camper when using the tow module brake override. Can't say I care much about this but maybe I'll get bored in the future and setup a diode and relay between the electric brakes and brake lights on the camper.

I had been using the Curt Echo for the last year but I find it tedious. The brake application curve (voltage curve) is horrible, intermittently being weaker than expected or too strong. Bluetooth connectivity can be spotty. It protrudes too far downward given the orientation of the 4Runner 7-pin jack too. Think I'll sell it on to someone else.

Reading this thread was helpful. Thanks all for your contributions.

Jason

Hi, I just installed the Redarc Tow Pro Elite using the TPH-021 harness and I'm now seeing a warning on the dash of my 2022 4Runner. I've double checked and can't find anything that got disconnected during the install. I also tried disconnecting the Redarc and I still get the warning light. Adding to the challenge is that I don't see any information or description about this warning indicator anywhere in the manual and can't find it on the web. This is a 2022 4Runner. Any ideas / suggestions?


Thanks, Christian

 

[NB17Limited]

Hi, I just installed the Redarc Tow Pro Elite using the TPH-021 harness and I'm now seeing a warning on the dash of my 2022 4Runner. I've double checked and can't find anything that got disconnected during the install. I also tried disconnecting the Redarc and I still get the warning light. Adding to the challenge is that I don't see any information or description about this warning indicator anywhere in the manual and can't find it on the web. This is a 2022 4Runner. Any ideas / suggestions?


Thanks, Christian

Unplug the brake controller and see if it goes away. If it doesn’t, then correlation does not equal causation