Replace Axles with OEM Boots or Extended Boots

Update on the All-Pro Outer CV Boots

I gave All-Pro Off-road a call this morning to see if I ordered the correct CV boots. They are the correct boots. I spoke with Sam there and he told me to get these to fit I need to do pretty much exactly what needs to be done to the ORS inner boots - cut the flange off the original boot and slide this one over the top and install the band clamp. This isn't documented anywhere.

Since I have no problems with my outer boots, I'm going to just replace them with OEM and put these up for sale in the classifieds. Will throw this info in my build thread for those going back and forth on which boots to use.
 
Seeing everyone else have all these problems...I've done absolutely nothing to mine. I did purchase an extra set of OEM axles, just because I got them dirt cheap..but they're just sitting in my garage. Mine aren't making any noise so I'm standing by. I figured up, if you can get a good deal on a front axle...it would be about the same cost to just do a SAS. Which is the way I'm leaning towards. Heck, by the time I rebuild both axles, replace upper/lower ball joints, buy new UCA's and replace the rack-n-pinion...and I'd end up with a way better set up.

Just thinking at this time and saving up money. I'm hoping I can find a good (free) front axle...if not, I guess I'll just rebuild the complete front end and be done with it.
 
So I think I'm going to cycle through OEM boots as [MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] suggested. Just wondering what direction [MENTION=132311]SilvFx[/MENTION] and [MENTION=72272]RussToy[/MENTION] went with your replacement.

How are they holding up?

Sorry been on strike coverage duty for my company since April 13th. First time back home since then. With my daughters 4runner, I replaced the CV axle with the rebuilt Toyota OEM with OEM boots. Was surprisingly easy to install. Cost of axle was ~$150. For now, the CV boot is holding up just fine, but I would guess she has less than 3-4k miles on it since then.
 
Anyway, I'm done for the day. When I get to building these I'll take some pics and put it in my build thread.

Here's some pics.
201489d1461532253-replace-axles-oem-boots-extended-boots-cv-boot-replacement_4.jpg



Search turned up this thread, but I have a similar but different problem. My inner boots are the same ones, but purchased from CVJ Axles since they are local to me.

To get that outer boot on, remove the portion you cut off of the OEM boots from the tulip and slide in inside of the aftermarket boot first. At that point you pry/slide/push both of them as an assembly onto the tulip.

My issue is that with the added thickness of the OEM inside the CVJ boot, the clamp they provide doesn't have a large enough diameter to go around both boots. I'm probably going to get the screw type tomorrow morning similar to those that come with the kit you attempted to use.
 
I gave All-Pro Off-road a call this morning to see if I ordered the correct CV boots. They are the correct boots. I spoke with Sam there and he told me to get these to fit I need to do pretty much exactly what needs to be done to the ORS inner boots - cut the flange off the original boot and slide this one over the top and install the band clamp. This isn't documented anywhere.

Since I have no problems with my outer boots, I'm going to just replace them with OEM and put these up for sale in the classifieds. Will throw this info in my build thread for those going back and forth on which boots to use.

Yup. I did the same with mine. So far so good. And a good clamp from west marine stainless grade tops it of
 
Yup. I did the same with mine. So far so good. And a good clamp from west marine stainless grade tops it of

Hey guys awesome feedback on this thread. We need to find a way to consolidate all of this in one thread. Right now [MENTION=109102]MattJakobs[/MENTION] is building these. He and I have been texting back and forth on these. I ended up going OEM.

201489d1461532253-replace-axles-oem-boots-extended-boots-cv-boot-replacement_4.jpg



Search turned up this thread, but I have a similar but different problem. My inner boots are the same ones, but purchased from CVJ Axles since they are local to me.

To get that outer boot on, remove the portion you cut off of the OEM boots from the tulip and slide in inside of the aftermarket boot first. At that point you pry/slide/push both of them as an assembly onto the tulip.

My issue is that with the added thickness of the OEM inside the CVJ boot, the clamp they provide doesn't have a large enough diameter to go around both boots. I'm probably going to get the screw type tomorrow morning similar to those that come with the kit you attempted to use.

Good to know about the clamp. As mentioned above, it would be nice to consolidate all the info on these in one place. I think Matt said he's gonna try and take some pics and document. I know Torque of the Devil has these on his as well but thin on the "How To"
 
Right now [MENTION=109102]MattJakobs[/MENTION] is building these. He and I have been texting back and forth on these.

Not sure what you mean by he's "building" these? Building CV axles with these boots? Coming up with boots of his own?
 
This issue is driving me nuts. Got my passenger side cv rebooted with oem boot kit before heading out to the trail this weekend. I did the boot stretch mod and left the old inner cv boot inside the cv groove to act as a stopper for the new boot. The boots held up fine all week on road and the ribs werent rubbing at all.

I take it off road and at the end of the day, i see the boot has ripped near the end (skinny part) of the inner boot.

Any suggestions? This isnt something i want to do every time i go offroading.
 
This issue is driving me nuts. Got my passenger side cv rebooted with oem boot kit before heading out to the trail this weekend. I did the boot stretch mod and left the old inner cv boot inside the cv groove to act as a stopper for the new boot. The boots held up fine all week on road and the ribs werent rubbing at all.

I take it off road and at the end of the day, i see the boot has ripped near the end (skinny part) of the inner boot.

Any suggestions? This isnt something i want to do every time i go offroading.

Honestly, I gave up on the after market boots and the boot stretch. I now have two sets of OEM axles that I'll just rotate out as the boots tear. I have the OEM kits on my shelf and will just reboot and replace. I'm hoping to get 10,000 miles out of each installation. I also lowered the front and sprayed the inside boots with dry lube. Not sure what else there is we can do.
 
Honestly, I gave up on the after market boots and the boot stretch. I now have two sets of OEM axles that I'll just rotate out as the boots tear. I have the OEM kits on my shelf and will just reboot and replace. I'm hoping to get 10,000 miles out of each installation. I also lowered the front and sprayed the inside boots with dry lube. Not sure what else there is we can do.
Ugh. So frustrating. My boots have failed the same way twice after the boot stretch mod
c021a2508b6c8fc15237d6e3cec75129.jpg



Have performed the same stretch on my driver's side with no issues after several miles, however.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
Ugh. So frustrating. My boots have failed the same way twice after the boot stretch mod

Have performed the same stretch on my driver's side with no issues after several miles, however.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

There's got to be a better mouse trap. All that's needed is something to keep the grease inside the tulip and the ability to flex with the axle. Yours tore completely off. Has nothing to do with rubbing. The OEM boots are quality.
 
There's got to be a better mouse trap. All that's needed is something to keep the grease inside the tulip and the ability to flex with the axle. Yours tore completely off. Has nothing to do with rubbing. The OEM boots are quality.






Yeah it looks like there is a sweet spot with the "stretching"

Too much & you've exceeding the length this boot was intended to go

Too little & now your ribs are rubbing, The whole reason the boots ripped to begin with when the angle of your lift now causes your CV boot ribs to make contact with each other

Maybe no stretching with "O" rings where the ripping of the boot Is occurring to prevent the rubbing from Happening at all is the solution??????
 
I have all pro extended cv boots. I cut the flange of the old one. Slid the all pro over it. Used some west marine stainless steel clamp. Been good for 1 year.
 
I have all pro extended cv boots. I cut the flange of the old one. Slid the all pro over it. Used some west marine stainless steel clamp. Been good for 1 year.



Any pictures?...

Did you use any O rings? Or just a simple stretch over the old boots end remnant that you left on?
 
Old thread, I know, to OP, did you ever figure out a solution to this? If I'm following correctly, you bought a junkyard set to swap out when your current boots rip and in the mean time you'd reboot ripped ones with OEM, with no stretching. I will be tossing an SS 1.2 lift on my 97 here hopefully this month and am trying to weigh my options. I doubt the rubber on my 22 year old boots will stand up to just the simple "stretch" mod. What I initially was going to do is follow [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]'s write up for the boot replacement kit like you got and just stretch them. I also don't want to do nothing about it and have my current boots rip. I'd like to salvage the OEM CVs if I could.
 
Just ripped my drivers and passenger side boots. I've got a Toytec lift and it seems that the Toyota OEM CV boots really don't like being stretched. They both have ripped in roughly the same way (on the skinny end) and roughly at the same time.

Seeing how much longer the allpro (and possibly cvj) boots are I'll wager that putting them on correctly should last significantly longer than the Toyota ones. Its my personal opinion that one shouldn't remove the half shaft tulip out of the differential to swap cv axles. Just pop the clamp off and pull the shaft out, that way you're not dealing with gear oil or possibly ruining the seals. Popping the axle out of the differential is a pain and there's really no huge benefit to doing so. I think its fairly easy to load up the tulip with grease, some in the boot and just clamp it down.

Anyways this is my 3/4 CV boot rip and I'm tired of it. Swapping out boots every 2 oil changes isn't acceptable so I'll give the allpro / cvj boots a try.
 
Old thread, I know, to OP, did you ever figure out a solution to this? If I'm following correctly, you bought a junkyard set to swap out when your current boots rip and in the mean time you'd reboot ripped ones with OEM, with no stretching.

Late response I know. been on a short hiatus for a while. Yes, you're correct. I bought a set of OEM axles from the salvage yard and I just keep them rebuilt ready to go as needed. For the record, the OEM boots have been OK so far without stretching or anything else. Going on a few years now with moderate (few times a year) off-roading. When they tear, I'll just swap the axles out again and re-boot them. I spray mine down with a DRY LUBE anytime I'm under the rig.
 
Holy thread revival, Batman!

I'm working on a complete suspension refresh and 2" lift and just realized all of that grease on the floor means that I'm going to have to do CV boots as well. I don't really like the idea of the aftermarket boots having to use the OEM boot lip in order to work, so I'm just going to go with a factory boot replacement. It also seems that a few people have had tears after the boot stretch mod, so I'd like to avoid that altogether.

My question is, has anyone tried OEM boots, not stretched, but adding a regular ol' o-ring between the innermost ribs to prevent the rubbing? Seems like it could be the best of both worlds.
 
Holy thread revival, Batman!

I'm working on a complete suspension refresh and 2" lift and just realized all of that grease on the floor means that I'm going to have to do CV boots as well. I don't really like the idea of the aftermarket boots having to use the OEM boot lip in order to work, so I'm just going to go with a factory boot replacement. It also seems that a few people have had tears after the boot stretch mod, so I'd like to avoid that altogether.

My question is, has anyone tried OEM boots, not stretched, but adding a regular ol' o-ring between the innermost ribs to prevent the rubbing? Seems like it could be the best of both worlds.


Intriguing idea
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,085
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top