Rock Rat's Imperial Jade Mica "Next Adventure" Build

So, turn that hobby of yours into a second job!!


I already tried that route. I do a lot of rock climbing. I live where I live because of it. I spent 5 years of my life living out of a van working as little as possible and climbing as much as possible. I met my wife because of it. I'm a lifer.

So, many year back, I was living in the Gunks. A very well known climbing area in the Hudson Valley of NY. I was working as a carpenter at the time and was making pretty good money. One day I come up with the idea. I should guide. Most of my friends where guides and they had fun with it. So I take the NY State guides course and pass. I'm stoked. I get a job guiding.

About 3 days into it I realize I don't like it. I'm not the teacher type. Some people have patience and truly enjoy teaching others the correct ways to do things. I am not one of those people. Maybe it'll grow on me? So I stick it out for the whole season.

I never went back for a second season. lol
 
I already tried that route. I do a lot of rock climbing. I live where I live because of it. I spent 5 years of my life living out of a van working as little as possible and climbing as much as possible. I met my wife because of it. I'm a lifer.

So, many year back, I was living in the Gunks. A very well known climbing area in the Hudson Valley of NY. I was working as a carpenter at the time and was making pretty good money. One day I come up with the idea. I should guide. Most of my friends where guides and they had fun with it. So I take the NY State guides course and pass. I'm stoked. I get a job guiding.

About 3 days into it I realize I don't like it. I'm not the teacher type. Some people have patience and truly enjoy teaching others the correct ways to do things. I am not one of those people. Maybe it'll grow on me? So I stick it out for the whole season.

I never went back for a second season. lol

Pretty insane how similar we are. Hard core rock climber back in the day when REI membership was $5 and Black Diamond was still called Chouinard before the lawsuit. I spent a lot of years living out of the back of my Mitsubishi Delica in Japan and Korea teaching Rock and Ice and then spent a few years as a Guide in the Himalayas. Loved it but it's all seasonal. When the weather changes it's time to guide on a different continent. I tried to get into Rainier and the Cascades as a guide but it's damn near impossible. The NPS is so restrictive, for a good reason though. Thought about bootlegging but if I was caught I would never be able to get a peak permit again. Brutal lifestyle. I'm heading to Nepal in the fall of next year to climb Ama Dablam via the standard route. Base camp, high camp, three more camps and summit. This is a on our bucket list. Will do Rainier this year up past paradise in August. Never climbed in the Gunks. Climbed in J-tree, Mt Lemon, Yosemite, Red Rocks and Overseas. Great trad climbing up in Leavenworth as well. I LOVE mixed multi-pitch trad type stuff. Here's a pic my buddy just posted on FB. One of my posters and my banner from back when I was a professional guide.

So here's pic of us during our Lobuje Expedition a "few years" back.
Lobuje Expedition.jpg

You can see the number of trips I made that year as a guide. Awesome time but brutal. I did all the logistics except flight reservations.
Old Guiding Poster.jpg


And the majestic mountain of Ama Dablam. (Not my photo since I'm at work) The route runs along the Arête.
Ama Dablam.jpg
 

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Unfortunately, I'm not the guy to ask "how much rust is too much?" Those of us who live in the PNW are extremely lucky to not have to deal with salting the roads and the problems of rust. Use the google search up top and plug in variations of rust, IE: too much rust, frame rust, is this too much rust, etc. There's ALWAYS someone from the midwestern and eastern states starting threads on the subject. You need to look west for a true rust-free rig but they're ridiculously expensive out here. In Portland, basic SR5's start at $7000 with 225K miles.

Still a good value if it goes to 400k miles

IF* being the keyword :P
 
First impressions - WOW! I love the instant pedal response from idle. There's a noticeable difference from stock and well worth it. If you find a good deal on an SC I would say "go four it." I picked mine up two years ago locally for I think $700 when TRD was still making them. The nose cone kit was around $225. Now they've gotten ridiculous on the prices. Not sure if I would pay the $3K for one or not. But yes, first impressions - awesome. Love the instant power with the additional weight.

EDIT: Want to clarify I picked it up from someone off CL who was looking for a new compound bow and just replaced his motor which was under warranty for three years. Rather than let the SC sit in his garage for that long, he opted to sell it. The original price from TRD at the time was around $2500. After TRD announced they weren't making them anymore the prices skyrocketed.



No kidding, [MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION] did it the smart way. I regret not choosing the locker option for the rear when I ordered my gear upgrade from ECGS. Oh well, that's on the list for another time. A second "job" is what supported my hobby and all of my upgrades. I'm a B licensed soccer coach and have been coaching HS soccer for almost 15 years. I retired the teams last year and am now coaching a boys Academy team. I'll be turning them over to another coach in May then I'm hanging up the boots. I'll do some private goal keeper training but that's about it. So, turn that hobby of yours into a second job!!



Kotrin, it's a fantastic upgrade and I'm monitoring everything VERY closely right now. As you know I made sure all of my maintenance priorities were done FIRST to include opening up the exhaust and a complete suspension upgrade, to include the gussets. If I was to build a TRUE outback style "overlander" an SC would not be on the list. I'm now a slave to premium fuel. If and only IF you find a good deal on one I say pick it up. There's a huge noticeable difference and it adds that extra "umph" that you're looking for. Is it worth 3K, I'm not sure about that. The gears helped me tremendously and now of course, the combination of the entire TRD exhaust system, headers included, the 4.88's and the SC - The rig is amazing. Not to worry, I'm still heading to the Overland Expo next month but there's a chance I might make it your way before we leave. If we have another meet and greet up here, I'll let you know. Better yet, join the PDX Overlanders FB group.

I'm not on facebook or I would join the groups. I'm hoping that in the next year or so I can rejoin facebook but was directed to step away from facebook for a time(lawyer advice.
 
Wait, so you've climbed Mount Everest?

No, but the desire has always been there. I did 26-day Everest base camp treks and led expeditions on 6 and 7000 meter peaks. I happened to be on the same flight to Kathmandu as Jon Krakauer the year of the big disaster on Everest. That was the year we lost Rob Hall and Scott Fischer among other great mountaineers. My climbing partner proposed to his wife that year on our smaller expedition up Lobuje. They're happily married with two great kids now. He's going to meet up with me and my other climbing partner in flagstaff. Pretty stoked. A 21 year old bottle of Macallan will be opened!

Here's a picture for good laughs. I was in Irian Jaya ready to climb the Carstenz Pyramid (Punsak Jaya - the highest peak in "Australasia") when we were turned back. There was a report of cannibalism again and it wasn't safe for us to venture any further. The Government wouldn't stamp our peak permit. Stuck in the tiny town of Timika waiting for our flight out five LONG days later, hoping we didn't become an epicurean delight or fall prey to encephalitis! Yes I still have my Lowe Fanny pack!

Awesome time for us but such a difficult time for the Mountaineering community. My bud Ozzie proposing to his wife!
Ozzie.jpg

Stuck in the little village of Timika in Irian Jaya waiting for the next flight back out five days later. At least I wasn't thrown in a pot with carrots and potatoes.
Punsak Jaya.jpg
 

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Gotcha, I'm sure you've still seen more things than most people see in their entire lifetime. I just spent the last 30 minutes reading about that disaster on Everest... That last picture is kinda crazy, it's hard to believe people still live like that.
 
[MENTION=116467]Rock_Rat[/MENTION]

I never got into high altitude stuff. I always wanted to, not for anything other then to push myself and see if I could gut it out. It's something I'll probably do in the future as I get a little older. I've always had the idea in my mind to free climb as hard as I can until I stop making progress on that front. Then start to do more aid and high altitude stuff. Luckily, at the age of 43, I've yet to hit my free climbing ceiling. Somehow, I manage to get just a little stronger every year.

The highest I've ever been is Whitney. From my house, if I really, really, push it I can be on top via the East Buttress in about 7 hours. Two of that is drive time. What led me to live in Bishop is the Sierra. I've climbed in all the other Continental US and Canadian ranges and nothing beats this place, with the exception of the Bugaboos. The Winds are a close second but the weather here is better and the trailheads are higher. Add to that it's 70 minutes to Tuolumne Meadows, 120 minutes to the Valley, 4 hours Red Rocks, and about 5 hours to J-Tree and Taquitze. The local climbing is pretty damn good as well. The fishing and four wheeling are also well above average, so it's a win/win/win. lol

That West Face of Ana Dablam is really one striking set of features. It's hard for me to pick a bucket list climb right now since I've managed to knock off so many that used to be on the list. Lotus Flower Tower holds a special place in my mind though. I've almost gone twice now but both times partners bailed or logistics prevented it. My wife and I have never taken an official honeymoon so I keep thinking about surprising her with a trip in there. She's one of the best alpine partners I've ever had. I'm a pretty lucky guy.

560px-Tom_Frost_-_Lotus_Flower_Tower_-_1968.jpg
 
[MENTION=116467]Rock_Rat[/MENTION]

I never got into high altitude stuff. I always wanted to, not for anything other then to push myself and see if I could gut it out. It's something I'll probably do in the future as I get a little older. I've always had the idea in my mind to free climb as hard as I can until I stop making progress on that front. Then start to do more aid and high altitude stuff. Luckily, at the age of 43, I've yet to hit my free climbing ceiling. Somehow, I manage to get just a little stronger every year.

The highest I've ever been is Whitney. From my house, if I really, really, push it I can be on top via the East Buttress in about 7 hours. Two of that is drive time. What led me to live in Bishop is the Sierra. I've climbed in all the other Continental US and Canadian ranges and nothing beats this place, with the exception of the Bugaboos. The Winds are a close second but the weather here is better and the trailheads are higher. Add to that it's 70 minutes to Tuolumne Meadows, 120 minutes to the Valley, 4 hours Red Rocks, and about 5 hours to J-Tree and Taquitze. The local climbing is pretty damn good as well. The fishing and four wheeling are also well above average, so it's a win/win/win. lol

That West Face of Ana Dablam is really one striking set of features. It's hard for me to pick a bucket list climb right now since I've managed to knock off so many that used to be on the list. Lotus Flower Tower holds a special place in my mind though. I've almost gone twice now but both times partners bailed or logistics prevented it. My wife and I have never taken an official honeymoon so I keep thinking about surprising her with a trip in there. She's one of the best alpine partners I've ever had. I'm a pretty lucky guy.

Awesome looking spire. I can't lead 5.11's anymore and I know I couldn't lead a 5.10 trad. I haven't been on the sharp end in a LONG time. I wouldn't mind seconding or cleaning up a climb like that. Your lucky you have a great climbing partner as a wife! One day we'll get together and exchange some stories. So before I hi-jack my own thread (hmm is that possible?) I feel like such a dummy. I just put two-and-two together with you being in Bishop. I've attached a framed photo collection of pics of my buddy Jay and I somewhere VERY familiar to you! (picture of my framed picture) Now I know why I recognized the town of Bishop! Beautiful area! A winter ascent! - BRUTAL! We definitely need to get together.

One last quick question? Have you ever considered a multi-day mixed route? Take a look at photo# 6 in my WABDR post. This is the Stuart Range in the Enchantments! One of the best traverses in the WORLD! Think about it...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/gener...etion-wabdr-stevenson-canada.html#post2461761
 

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Awesome looking spire. I can't lead 5.11's anymore and I know I couldn't lead a 5.10 trad. I haven't been on the sharp end in a LONG time. I wouldn't mind seconding or cleaning up a climb like that. Your lucky you have a great climbing partner as a wife! One day we'll get together and exchange some stories. So before I hi-jack my own thread (hmm is that possible?) I feel like such a dummy. I just put two-and-two together with you being in Bishop. I've attached a framed photo collection of pics of my buddy Jay and I somewhere VERY familiar to you! (picture of my framed picture) Now I know why I recognized the town of Bishop! Beautiful area! A winter ascent! - BRUTAL! We definitely need to get together.

One last quick question? Have you ever considered a multi-day mixed route? Take a look at photo# 6 in my WABDR post. This is the Stuart Range in the Enchantments! One of the best traverses in the WORLD! Think about it...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/gener...etion-wabdr-stevenson-canada.html#post2461761

That looks a lot like Mt Humphrey's. It's hard to say for sure from that angle but it looks a lot like "Married Mens Point" and the true summit on that skyline. It's always a fun game to play trying to figure out what peak and from what angle. If it is Humphrey's it looks like it's shot from the SW col? If it's Basin or Tom I'm gonna cry. lol

I actually really enjoy traverses. I've done almost all of the classics in the Sierra except for the full Palisade traverse. I've done all of it in parts but have never linked the thing. It's on the tick list for this year. I haven't done much ice since moving to Cali 12 years ago but used to lead WI 5 all the time during the brutal East Coast winters. So yeah, I'd be down to do some long traversing.

As far as rock climbing goes I'm a 5.10 climber. One of my first mentors installed this idea that I have come to not only appreciate but fully embrace. He told me a long time ago that you can call yourself a climber of a given grade when you can on-sight 99% of the climbs at that grade anywhere in the world regardless of the style. It took me years to get there but I've been there for a while now. When I meet new climbers and they ask how hard I climb I always say "I'm a 5.10 climber" I've on-sighted 12- trad and 12c sport. I hardly ever fall off 5.11 but I never fall off 5.10. lol
 
That looks a lot like Mt Humphrey's. It's hard to say for sure from that angle but it looks a lot like "Married Mens Point" and the true summit on that skyline. It's always a fun game to play trying to figure out what peak and from what angle. If it is Humphrey's it looks like it's shot from the SW col? If it's Basin or Tom I'm gonna cry. lol

I actually really enjoy traverses. I've done almost all of the classics in the Sierra except for the full Palisade traverse. I've done all of it in parts but have never linked the thing. It's on the tick list for this year. I haven't done much ice since moving to Cali 12 years ago but used to lead WI 5 all the time during the brutal East Coast winters. So yeah, I'd be down to do some long traversing.

As far as rock climbing goes I'm a 5.10 climber. One of my first mentors installed this idea that I have come to not only appreciate but fully embrace. He told me a long time ago that you can call yourself a climber of a given grade when you can on-sight 99% of the climbs at that grade anywhere in the world regardless of the style. It took me years to get there but I've been there for a while now. When I meet new climbers and they ask how hard I climb I always say "I'm a 5.10 climber" I've on-sighted 12- trad and 12c sport. I hardly ever fall off 5.11 but I never fall off 5.10. lol

Man I could go on forever with you...great read. "Climb never to fall!" So the pic is the East face of Whitney looking back at it through the Needles after our climb. It was a 12 hour walk back to our car post holing through 2 feet of snow. We left there and headed to Vegas to go climb the "Hose Monster" (WI5) in Mt Charleston. We did another multi-pitch climb or two deep in the BLM area in Red Rocks but I don't recall the name. Lost a "friend" or two in a crack. (back when they made rigid friends) Frustrating there's no overnight camping there. Alright, I'm signing off...
 
Awesome Mike that the S/C is on! I think you should go high boost when you see that your engine can handle it. I wish I had the option of slapping it on & doing fuel mods later but I bought the High Boost kit from LCE & dont have the large pulley.

Cool climbing stories. I just watched a special about the Kathmandu earthquake & avalanche at Everest. I'm surprised more climbers didn't get killed when the ice came through camp. Lots of lucky people. Can't say the same for the locals & the surrounding towns that were wiped out. :sick:
(I'm scared of heights so none of that for me!)
 
Awesome Mike that the S/C is on! I think you should go high boost when you see that your engine can handle it. I wish I had the option of slapping it on & doing fuel mods later but I bought the High Boost kit from LCE & dont have the large pulley.

Cool climbing stories. I just watched a special about the Kathmandu earthquake & avalanche at Everest. I'm surprised more climbers didn't get killed when the ice came through camp. Lots of lucky people. Can't say the same for the locals & the surrounding towns that were wiped out. :sick:
(I'm scared of heights so none of that for me!)

I still might go with the 2.2 pulley and fuel mods later on but I thought it best to follow the Pyramid approach advise of @MTD with the AEM tuning. So far everything is fine with the exception of an 0171 code a few times last week which is a lean bank one indication. It would only come on when I let off the gas and the AFR's would jump to 17/18. I haven't seen the code at all since last Wednesday. My AFR's are still jumping up to 17.5/18 after slowing down from highway speeds for traffic ahead or exiting. I'm hoping it's the ECU just re-learning.

The earthquake that happened in Nepal is absolutely tragic. Part of my expeditions included tours of various Temples and Stupa's throughout the city. The damage, destruction, and loss of life was heart breaking for me. It's fortunate we didn't lose that many climbers in Everest Base Camp but extremely sad that we lost a lot of Sherpa's. These guides are barely paid enough for their families to survive on yet they put their lives at risk to quench our desire to summit these 8000 meter peaks.
The Khumbu Ice fall is the most dangerous section of the climb aside from the Hillary step (big bottle neck) and that's where we lost most of our Sherpas. If you ever have a chance, I would highly recommend you visit Nepal. They have such an amazing ethnic and religious diversity. If you ever watch the movie Everest, the Garuda Hotel is where my base camp in Kathmandu was. If you ever make it there, you'll also have to go have a beer at Rum doodles and look for my footprints. Namaste my friend!
 

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