Servo sub-assy, damper replacement?

[rgcary]

Good morning. I need to replace the damper that controls the selection on where you would like the air to flow from (vents, defrost, etc). Mine is starting to click when on the dash vents only. Toyota wants $212.00 for this part, but online is 1/2 that cost for the exact part. What a joke when you buy from dealer, but we all know that.
Does anyone have a diagram on replacing this? Do I drop the glove box or go in through the center dash area below radio? Any pointers for getting to that part or tips for replacing? Thank you!

8710635120 Genuine Toyota SERVO SUB-ASSY, DAMPER(FOR MODE) 87106-35120 | eBay

Part Info
Part No. 87106-35120
Part Description SERVO SUB-ASSY, DAMPER
Comment
(FOR MODE)

 

[snowboardwcu]

mine just started the clicking this weekend, am interested in answers to your questions as well.

 

[rgcary]

mine just started the clicking this weekend, am interested in answers to your questions as well.

I hope someone responds because it's annoying and only does it in the summer. Odd, I know, but it's only in the summer when vehicle is hot. When it cools down with AC the noise is less and may even stop by rotating from vent to defrost, etc.

Keep in mind though there are same part numbers with different letters at the end. This is the one that changes the mode from vent, to defrost, floor, etc.

 

[MidwestT4R]

I am getting clicking under my dash too so I dug around on the forum a bit the other day and found two threads. I am not exactly sure of the part names that define each, but one is for the part that is closer to the center behind the dash and the other is for one on the right of the glove box (at least this is what it looks like to me). Here are the threads. Both have pics.

Center clicking (air mix servo motor)
Grinding/clicking under dash - air mix servo - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Right Clicking (recirculation actuator, courtesy of our very own BlackworksInc)
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/156776-replacing-re-circulation-actuator.html

Good luck

 

[rgcary]

I am getting clicking under my dash too so I dug around on the forum a bit the other day and found two threads. I am not exactly sure of the part names that define each, but one is for the part that is closer to the center behind the dash and the other is for one on the right of the glove box (at least this is what it looks like to me). Here are the threads. Both have pics.

Center clicking (air mix servo motor)
Grinding/clicking under dash - air mix servo - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Right Clicking (recirculation actuator, courtesy of our very own BlackworksInc)
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/156776-replacing-re-circulation-actuator.html

Good luck

Thank you. I've already replaced the one to the right of glove box. That was for the recycled vs fresh air. This one I'm assuming is to the left of glove box, possibly behind the vent knob controls. I think I might be able to access once glove box is removed (lower and upper portions). I'll buy the new motor for less than $120, but would be nice to know of someone that has done it. Looks like you'll need small fingers and a good back since you're going to be under that area on the floorboard. I'll give the thread a week to pick up traction and see what others post before buying part and digging in to explore on my own. Thanks again!

I'm going to miss this forum when I sell my 4Runner one day (not for a few more years)... It's such a big help and the 4Runner is not too bad to work on. Will be going to a Highlander most likely. I know, I know. I just wish 4Runners would get with the times and have more safety features.

 

[jdc62]

I performed this repair a few weekends ago. It wasn’t easy but doable. You’ll need to remove the glove box and as well as the assembly for the upper storage compartment to get access. The latter is held in place by 2 upper and 2 lower screws. You will also need to drop the bottom panel which is held in by clips and a couple of screws. They will be visible with the glovebox removed (this will make it easier to recover things when you drop them). This will give you enough access for the job.

Next, disconnect the connector from the top of the servo. I also disconnected other wires nearby and detached the strain relief connectors for the nearby wire bundle. I was able to easily remove the top front and back screws of the servo bracket but could not access the lower back screw. I could barely feel it with my finger, let alone get a screwdriver on it.

My approach was to remove the three small screws that hold the metal bracket to the servo assembly. The top two were easy – the bottom was not. I would up using a small 90-degree ratchet screw driver I picked up at Harbor Freight (for $3 – worth every penny!). Patience is the key for this because there is very little clearance. Once the screws are out you need to bend the bracket outward to remove the servo. Just reverse all of the steps to finish the job. You’ll need to move the plastic slotted cam from the old servo to the new one. Use a screw driver to lift of the clip that holds it on. Also, be sure that the mode door arm is correctly fitted into the slot in the cam before you bundle everything up. It’s hard to see and you can only tell by running the climate control through its paces. The entire job took a couple of hours and much of the time was trying to figure out how to remove things without breaking them. Good luck and remember the key is patience.

 

[rgcary]

I performed this repair a few weekends ago. It wasn’t easy but doable. You’ll need to remove the glove box and as well as the assembly for the upper storage compartment to get access. The latter is held in place by 2 upper and 2 lower screws. You will also need to drop the bottom panel which is held in by clips and a couple of screws. They will be visible with the glovebox removed (this will make it easier to recover things when you drop them). This will give you enough access for the job.

Next, disconnect the connector from the top of the servo. I also disconnected other wires nearby and detached the strain relief connectors for the nearby wire bundle. I was able to easily remove the top front and back screws of the servo bracket but could not access the lower back screw. I could barely feel it with my finger, let alone get a screwdriver on it.

My approach was to remove the three small screws that hold the metal bracket to the servo assembly. The top two were easy – the bottom was not. I would up using a small 90-degree ratchet screw driver I picked up at Harbor Freight (for $3 – worth every penny!). Patience is the key for this because there is very little clearance. Once the screws are out you need to bend the bracket outward to remove the servo. Just reverse all of the steps to finish the job. You’ll need to move the plastic slotted cam from the old servo to the new one. Use a screw driver to lift of the clip that holds it on. Also, be sure that the mode door arm is correctly fitted into the slot in the cam before you bundle everything up. It’s hard to see and you can only tell by running the climate control through its paces. The entire job took a couple of hours and much of the time was trying to figure out how to remove things without breaking them. Good luck and remember the key is patience.

Thank you. This helps and know what to be prepared for. I'm wondering if I buy the part and take glove box out, etc. what Toyota would charge to repair? Our time is worth something in this busy world. Sounds like most of the labor would be replacing the motor and not taking the upper/lower blove box out along with lower foot sheild. I wonder what the service manual would say on this for the techs. Would be awesome to have one for this!

 

[TowMeOut]

My "mixing servo" which I think is the upper one to the left of the glove box is starting to "hunt". That's the term I found in a YouTube video where the contacts get contaminated so the computer gets confused about the arm position. It doesn't seem to do it all the time but gets worse when you're running the AC and the outside temperature is pretty close to where you have the preferred temperature set. In that case the flapper valve does a lot of "hunting" back and forth mixing the cooled AC air with either heat or maybe just straight outside air.

I just happened to have the dash already partially apart while I was bypassing the TPMS system (just swapped wheels/tires). and looked at taking that servo out, cleaning the contacts and putting it back in. I don't have a good ratcheting screwdriver handy and wasn't sure about how much of the dash to disassemble.

If I'm reading the other post correctly it's best to drop the bottom panel where the TPMS and 4WD computers are located, the glove box, and the top storage box. I saw the two screws in front but didn't notice anything toward the back to release that panel. I'm assuming this takes the storage box and the bottom piece of trip under the airbag loose as well (it looks like they're one piece). Anyone have pics of this procedure? It seems as about every old sticky post is suffering from the stupid picture hosting problem.

 

[revvhappy]

The servo that changes the flow of air to different vents started clicking 2 months ago, then started buzzing intermittently last week. I took my 05 Sport to a local Toyota independent and was told 5.3 hours of labor to replace it. I'm fairly handy with tools and decided to attempt the fix myself.

I found a youtube video that showed how to fix the buzzing issue by "shimming" a worm gear in the actuator, then started removing interior parts.

Video of IS300 actuator fix. 4runner worm gear/motor is identical in terms of repairing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9S5B1Dn3j4&t=1s

First the glovebox, then the upper "secret" storage area and lower panel below the glovebox. With these removed you have a clear view of two actuators, one above the other. The problem one for me was the upper.

The front and rear upper screws on the bracket holding the actuator are fairly easy to remove, but the lower rear is quite difficult. I went through an opening in the white blower box and found an angle with a phillips screwdriver. Others have removed three smaller screws that hold the actuator to the mounting bracket and bending the bracket out of the way.

I knew that getting this screw out would be simple compared to getting it back in - you can barely see it and there is no room to get a hand or tool in to install it. My solution was to slot that hole in the bracket which allowed me to start the screw without the actuator in place, then slide the slot onto the screw.

The next major problem is to align three pins on different arms into three different slots on the actuator cam. You cannot see these pins or the cam slots once the actuator is in position, it's just trial and error. On my first attempt I lost function of the center vents. My second attempt was mostly successful - I have face, foot, and windshield flow but it still seems a bit mixed up. Close enough for me.

Photo of cam
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-...3I/AAAAAAAADQo/5mLr5M-Xdmc/s1280/IMAG1933.jpg

It took about 3 hours total, but only because of that one difficult screw and the cam/pin alignment.

 

[ghs215]

I tried and failed. Said eff it and unplugged the servo and used a flat blade screwdriver to move the actuator to the position I wanted. It can stay there since its 110 deg in phx.:mad2::mad2::flame::flame:

 

[schwari1]

Servo sub assembly damper replacement

I just replaced mine. Difficult but not impossible. The dealer quoted me around $1500 as they required dash removal. After removing the glove box, upper storage area above glove box and lower kick panel, place your air circulating control as to ensure the air baffle on top of the blower unit is in the open position (flipped up) and that you have removed the cabin air filter. It is then possible to access the very forward bracket screw with a long Phillips screwdriver. Very hard to see but you can get eyes-on it. Access to the screw is at a funny angle so be patient. The forward 2 screws are not a problem. Remove wire harness connector and wire bundle tab from bracket. Once the bad unit is removed, carefully remove the plastic slotted cam from the servo (carefully pry small lock tab while lifting cam) and reinstall cam on actuator onto the control arm tabs before installing servo. Make sure all tabs are in their grooves. You can manually move cam to make sure you are controlling all three arms before installing servo or you could have a situation where not all three arm tabs are in their respective cam groove and you’ll have to start all over. Once everything appears to move correctly, carefully line up cam to servo unit to cam. Carefully install your three screws being careful not to drop them. (I bought a screwdriver magnetizing tool from a Home Depot which made things easier on removal and installation). Reinstall wire connector and harness clip onto bracket. Start her up and cycle through your different air settings to make sure things are good before buttoning everything up.

 

[46runner]

Replaced my servos. My write up is here http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/265473-diy-replace-servo-sub-assy.html#post3182903


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[eaglesfish]

TipS

Thanks to everyone's tips I replaced mine easily in short time.

The key things were to use a long magnetized Philips screwdriver to remove and reinstall the back bottom bracket screw keeping on eye on it with an automotive angled telescoping mirror. Keep the filter in the blower section so if the screw drops the filter will catch it.

Also, to make fitting the 3 plastic tabs/pins into the cam easier, don't put the cam on the new servo motor at first. Rather, put the cam on the 3 pins before installing the servo motor. This made lining up the tabs/pins with the cam and testing the function of the cam by rotating it a breeze. After the cam is in place, then install the new servo motor shaft into the cam hole and ensure the cam is locked into place by moving it a little along the servo motor shaft. Once in place, then secure servo motor bracket into position with the 3 screws. This eliminated all the frustration of aligning the cam!!!!
:dancin: