• If you plan to post to Classified forums, you must follow these rules, or your post will be deleted.

    1. Thread title must include at a minimum: FS or FT, Item(1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th or 5th gen), Price and Location. For Example: FS: 4th GEN Carpet Floor Mats - Tan, $50 Denver, CO.
    2. All Threads must contain the following information
      • What is for sale/trade (model, specs, etc.)
      • Condition
      • Price/What you want to trade for
      • Location of item
      • At least one picture of the item for sale or for trade
    3. No "Feeler" Threads - Its either for sale or it isn't.
    4. Moderators lock Classified Threads that have not had any activity in 90 days or when the part is announced SOLD.
    5. Threads not complying with the rules will be deleted without notice.

shok industries sound deadener

To provide a little non-biased info for this deal, I would like to chime in.
First, keep in mind that CDL (constrained dampening layer) is not really a noise reduction tool. It's primary purpose to to prevent the metal from resonating (or vibrating) Because of that, you only need about 30% coverage to be effective.

I ripped out my complete lower interior (everything below the windows) and I had 70 square feet to work with. When I finished, I had about 5 sheets left (about 8 sq ft) and I went much more than 30%.

CDL is very expensive to try to use as a sound deadened. It should be used in conjunction with CCF (closed cell foam) for higher frequencies (and also acts as a decoupler for the MLV) and MLV (mass loaded vinyl) for lower frequencies. Both which are much less per sq ft. No one of these alone will do a very good job of noise suppression but the 3 together will do an amazing job.
 
tigger said:
To provide a little non-biased info for this deal, I would like to chime in.
First, keep in mind that CDL (constrained dampening layer) is not really a noise reduction tool. It's primary purpose to to prevent the metal from resonating (or vibrating) Because of that, you only need about 30% coverage to be effective.

I ripped out my complete lower interior (everything below the windows) and I had 70 square feet to work with. When I finished, I had about 5 sheets left (about 8 sq ft) and I went much more than 30%.

CDL is very expensive to try to use as a sound deadened. It should be used in conjunction with CCF (closed cell foam) for higher frequencies (and also acts as a decoupler for the MLV) and MLV (mass loaded vinyl) for lower frequencies. Both which are much less per sq ft. No one of these alone will do a very good job of noise suppression but the 3 together will do an amazing job.
Click to expand...

Great information. What do you think the main areas of focus should be? Guessing by how you did yours, you'd say the bottom side? Roof at all?
 
tigger said:
To provide a little non-biased info for this deal, I would like to chime in.
First, keep in mind that CDL (constrained dampening layer) is not really a noise reduction tool. It's primary purpose to to prevent the metal from resonating (or vibrating) Because of that, you only need about 30% coverage to be effective.

I ripped out my complete lower interior (everything below the windows) and I had 70 square feet to work with. When I finished, I had about 5 sheets left (about 8 sq ft) and I went much more than 30%.

CDL is very expensive to try to use as a sound deadened. It should be used in conjunction with CCF (closed cell foam) for higher frequencies (and also acts as a decoupler for the MLV) and MLV (mass loaded vinyl) for lower frequencies. Both which are much less per sq ft. No one of these alone will do a very good job of noise suppression but the 3 together will do an amazing job.
Click to expand...


What you say here is correct for most products.

So far, with just the Shok deadener we have had MASSIVE success simply by using this product and this product by itself to successful reduce all ambient noise
This deadener has a very unique butyl formulation, and as quite a few of our customers can attest a single treatment with the shok deadener has done the job of all practically a 3:1 product.

With that said, Im still waiting for a head to head test with a fully complete job using all 3 products vs a truck with just one to do a qualitative and quantitative analysis and over cost/ install time

On a side note, i do understand what your saying though. 30 % treatment via deadener and the rest with ccf and MLV to be one option of doing the job on a cost basis
 
Manethon said:
What you say here is correct for most products.

So far, with just the Shok deadener we have had MASSIVE success simply by using this product and this product by itself to successful reduce all ambient noise
Click to expand...

I haven't used your product nor been in a vehicle with it, so can neither confirm nor deny what you say, but I have a hard time with this statement.
To say that a dampener can reduce ALL ambient noise is a very bold statement and I hope you have the data to back that up.

The amount you would have to apply to provide 100% coverage of all surfaces would be both cost prohibitive and extremely heavy. In addition, you would have to cover the complete inner metal door panels to prevent any noise intrusion into the vehicle. That makes it extremely difficult to service the door mechanics.

If your product works as well as you say, then you have found the holy grail of sound reduction and I applaud you. :tea:

I would invite you to submit your product to this thread for testing. He has done some extensive testing of CLDs.
Sound Deadening (CLD) Testing - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

I am not associated with that thread or any competitor. Just did a lot of research before my install.


And please don't let any of this discourage anyone from partaking in this group buy. I am sure this is an excellent product and anything you do to help reduce noise in your vehicle will make a big difference.

I encourage people to add noise reduction products to their vehicle. It will make a very noticeable difference to the sound quality of your stereo, as well as reduce driver fatigue caused by the increased ambient noise that is present in our vehicles, especially if you add more aggressive tires and roof racks. Even 1 sheet of CLD per door and some radiant barrier over the wheel wells in my Honda Civic made a noticeable difference.
 
Last edited:
ElysianComrade said:
Great information. What do you think the main areas of focus should be? Guessing by how you did yours, you'd say the bottom side? Roof at all?
Click to expand...

The roof is an area of concern, but I don't like messing with headliners. They are easy to damage and can be hard to reinstall. If you do remove the headliner, make sure you use a product with exceptional adhesion properties, especially if you live in high temp regions like the Southwest. Some CLDs have been known to melt and run. Also, adding in the 2nd two layers, CCF and MLV, if you chose to go that route, are very difficult to attach as you need to use some type of adhesive.

With that said, the biggest area of noise in the 4Runner are the windows.
Without spending thousands on acoustically dampened windows, you will never achieve true quietness. I do have a small layer of radiant barrier above my headliner but that was by accident. I had some sitting on my sunroof cover, as I was getting a lot of wind noise from the rack and light set after the initial install. The radiant barrier was just a larger scrap piece that I had left over and I just tossed it up there. It wasn't attached. When I slid the cover back, it got caught and stayed in the head liner area. Doesn't hurt anything and now I have a little extra noise reduction above.

But to answer your question, to do it right, you would want to do the roof, and pull out as much of the dash as possible and go all the way up the fire wall. But the newer 4Runners are pretty quiet to start with, so pick your battles based on time, cost and weight.
 
Last edited:
Manethon said:
I can chime in here. The bigger pack is not cheaper, your correct. The reason is this. These packs come standard in a 10 sheet pack. For the XL pack and the 1/2 pack i have to pay the warehouse to re-pack the XL packs which costs more money. That is offset by a SLIGHT increase in price per sheet Shipped.
The next reason its not cheaper is because of the massive discount as it is and that is based on a Group volume discount not a per pack or per single order size of x amount of units..

The Regular pack sheets are $12.50 per sheet shipped, the Xl is $12.88 per sheet shipped if you work it out...... so to pay an extra 38cents per sheet is by no means an issue for those that don't want to have extra sheets laying around and buying 3 packs.

The reason we decided to give the XL pack a trial run is because i was trying to help people out that wanted an odd number of sheets. i.e 13,23,26 instead of having to be short or have to much. The idea was mostly around people wanting 26 sheets for their double cabs. They can buy 2 XL boxes instead of buying 3 regular and having 1/2 box sitting around collecting dust.
Click to expand...

Wow! great break down and very thoughtful.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 423 (members: 0, guests: 423)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,111
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top