Sound Deadener Project - Spray Dead, Fat Mat
- Thread starter Rock_Rat
- Start date
Rock_Rat
Senior Member
Sound Deadening Project Continued
It's been a while since I had made any progress on my sound deadening. I didn't see a need to remove my door panels until I was ready to install new speakers. That time has come. (I went with the Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" Car Audio Component System). This is more than sufficient to meet my current needs and will also support future needs for my either of my sons when I pass this down to them in the future.
Door Panels (for the noob)
Sound Deadening
Lessons Learned
Do not completely seal along the path of the door handle. When you pull on the handle it articulates outward contacting the sound deadening material causing it to "stick"
The only reason why I used the Dynamat is because I had a package of the door panels from a while back and didn't want them lying around. I still have plenty of Fat Mat left over. I also opted not to use any closed cell foam inside the door.
So now I can say I'm 99.5% complete. I still have the two remaining doors in the back to take care of. Nobody sits back there - not in hurry to finish.
I don't see a need to do the roof.
I have a lot invested in this project but from start to finish, it's been fun and well worth the effort. I couldn't imagine what it would cost to have this done "professionally", and to be honest with you, it still wouldn't be completed to my satisfaction.
It's been a while since I had made any progress on my sound deadening. I didn't see a need to remove my door panels until I was ready to install new speakers. That time has come. (I went with the Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" Car Audio Component System). This is more than sufficient to meet my current needs and will also support future needs for my either of my sons when I pass this down to them in the future.
Door Panels (for the noob)
- Removed the arm rest by just lifting up and then removed the two cross-point screws that hold the panel in place.
- Removed the single cross-point screw that holds the door handle in place.
- Removed two fasteners on fore and aft of the panel.
- Removed speakers (five screws)
Sound Deadening
- I used two 9" tall lengths of the Rattle Trap Extreme for inside the door panel.
- After removing the plastic (not sure what it's there for, vapor barrier, protect the door during manufacturing, up for discussion I'm sure, ????) I installed a sheet and a half of Dynamat Extreme
- Completely sealed the door and trimmed as necessary.
Lessons Learned
Do not completely seal along the path of the door handle. When you pull on the handle it articulates outward contacting the sound deadening material causing it to "stick"
The only reason why I used the Dynamat is because I had a package of the door panels from a while back and didn't want them lying around. I still have plenty of Fat Mat left over. I also opted not to use any closed cell foam inside the door.
So now I can say I'm 99.5% complete. I still have the two remaining doors in the back to take care of. Nobody sits back there - not in hurry to finish.
I don't see a need to do the roof.
I have a lot invested in this project but from start to finish, it's been fun and well worth the effort. I couldn't imagine what it would cost to have this done "professionally", and to be honest with you, it still wouldn't be completed to my satisfaction.
Attachments
Last edited:
Rock_Rat
Senior Member
Carpet Installation Complete
I finally finished up my carpet installation. All I've had left to do for the past ...hmmm...at least a year(or two) now is carpet the back of the rear seats. Anyway I did the complete write up in my build thread but here's a pic on how it turned out.
This should just about finish up this thread/project with the exception of adding sound deadener to the rear doors.
I finally finished up my carpet installation. All I've had left to do for the past ...hmmm...at least a year(or two) now is carpet the back of the rear seats. Anyway I did the complete write up in my build thread but here's a pic on how it turned out.
This should just about finish up this thread/project with the exception of adding sound deadener to the rear doors.
Attachments
infamousRNR
Senior Member
[MENTION=116467]Rock_Rat[/MENTION]
Dude. Very good tips for a successful instal. Thank you for this information
Dude. Very good tips for a successful instal. Thank you for this information
Rock_Rat
Senior Member
Thanks Treverd. Looks like you're new to the forum. Sometimes it's hard to tell if it's spam bot or not. Anyway welcome. Enjoy
Right on my man. A lot of work went into it as you know. So the rig is still in the shop. They couldn't get it on the lift today. I'm pretty stoked to see how they turn out. I'm guessing about 10-15hp more??? After the install I can put the SC on. I need a pic of the oil dipstick bracket though. I need to fab one up.
BTW doing the rear cargo door panels will make a big difference. I also stuck a piece of closed cell foam under the orange colored ecu on the right hand side. I swear that thing rattled every now and then. Now it's quiet back there.
Cool write up! Could you comment on how quiet your truck is now? Maybe in comparison to other vehicles you've ridden in?
I have extensive experience (and time + material invested) with soud deadening, not on the 4R, but on my other ride. Although the initial reduction in road noise was noticeable, it will still never be Lexus quiet and it's easy to get to a point of diminishing returns in terms of material added vs benefit. I'm curious on what practical level of quiet that can be achieved on the 4R.
I have extensive experience (and time + material invested) with soud deadening, not on the 4R, but on my other ride. Although the initial reduction in road noise was noticeable, it will still never be Lexus quiet and it's easy to get to a point of diminishing returns in terms of material added vs benefit. I'm curious on what practical level of quiet that can be achieved on the 4R.
Rock_Rat
Senior Member
Great question and observations about diminishing returns. A couple things to keep in mind. Any lifted rig with bigger tires will be noisier. I think the owner that would benefit the most from sound deadening on these is the one with a 100% stock engine, no ISR, no deckplate, AND stock 265/16" road tires as DD.
That being said, my rig is VERY quiet. It's actually noticeably quieter than my Camry XLE and other cars I have driven, especially, for a 3rd Gen 4runner which by nature are not quiet in the cabin. I haven't been able to perform a true dB calibration, however, using an APP I'm registering around 70dB. The true test is not what's on the app but the fact that I can have a normal conversation with the radio on. I have NO rattles in the rig either.
I've done both the deck plate and ISR mod, I'm driving on 33" Toyo AT (not MT's), and I just recently swapped gears to 4.88's (thus higher RPM's). I also have a TRD Cat Back installed and by the end of today will have the TRD headers installed. So for me ANY kind of deadening will be an improvement.
For me, I felt that diminishing returns would have been doing the roof. Most of the noise is road and engine noise and of course wind noise on the sides.
To actually truly see how effective it is I would have to ride in a rig setup similar to mine.
Quieter than a Camry XLE? I'm assuming older model. That would be pretty impressive especially with your mods. I'm very curious as to who owns the "quietest" 4Runner around here and what they've had to do to accomplish this.
The problem with sound deadening projects is over time, you'll be more attentive to the remainder noises that exist and that might bug you (haha). On a true luxury car, they are designed from the ground up to be quiet, down to the structural components, bushings, engine covers, laminated glass, and etc. That's why at the end, it requires exponentially more weight + costs to trim down the remainder of the noises.
From your pictures it looks like your deadening was mostly cabin only. To quiet engine noise, some extra damping on the firewall and a underhood damper actually makes a noticeable difference.
For wheel noise, extra deadening under the wheel liners may help. My experience with this one varies though. I've had noticeable differences when I did this on my old Mazda Protege, but minimal difference on my new Hyundai Genesis Coupe.
The problem with sound deadening projects is over time, you'll be more attentive to the remainder noises that exist and that might bug you (haha). On a true luxury car, they are designed from the ground up to be quiet, down to the structural components, bushings, engine covers, laminated glass, and etc. That's why at the end, it requires exponentially more weight + costs to trim down the remainder of the noises.
From your pictures it looks like your deadening was mostly cabin only. To quiet engine noise, some extra damping on the firewall and a underhood damper actually makes a noticeable difference.
For wheel noise, extra deadening under the wheel liners may help. My experience with this one varies though. I've had noticeable differences when I did this on my old Mazda Protege, but minimal difference on my new Hyundai Genesis Coupe.
Rock_Rat
Senior Member
The Camry is a 2010 with everything. I would definitely want to do more deadening on the firewall. It's pretty difficult on these due to the lack of room. My biggest concern now is going to be heat. Headers with an SC is going to increase the heat in the engine bay. I'll be watching it very closely.
TorqueOfTheDevil
Member
Great write up. +rep!
Makes a huge difference, I wish I'd used some of the pains tuff on mine, and better sound deadening materials!
Did you put any sound deadening on the inner part of the sheet metal on the tailgate?
Makes a huge difference, I wish I'd used some of the pains tuff on mine, and better sound deadening materials!
Did you put any sound deadening on the inner part of the sheet metal on the tailgate?
Rock_Rat
Senior Member
Thanks for the compliment and the +1 on the rep!! For some reason I can't find any pics of the rear cargo door itself. When I changed out the wiper motor I was able to put some Fat Mat on the sheet metal part of the door. Behind the large panel to the right wasn't a problem. Trying to get it behind the window frame/window in the center was a bit more challenging. I did it in small strips without the closed cell foam. That area is too tight.
I did add fat mat and foam to the interior panel. Here's the link to the panel when I added the E-series lights. Plenty of room. Rear Cargo Door Panel
