soundproof rear cargo on 4th gen (pics)

to cut down on noise, u will need 2 layers of dynamat on the headliner, one on the floor, plus u have to lay a thick foam pad over it to get it more quiet, u guys did fully deaden the doors right? inside one layer and then outside one layer? i used the mega bulk pack and that covered everything but headliner and floor, still need some more to finish the job, but now its good enough. also when u guys dynamat the tailgate one in and out, do not roll the window down and open it, itll fall back on u if u dont force it up completely.

I think that assertion may be a little strong. You don't necessarily need two layers of dynamat over each other to cut down on noise. It may cut down on more noise, but at some point you get smaller and smaller incremental gains...
 
dynamat is mass, the more mass u have on the hollow metal, the more solid itll feel. dynamat is not really a vibration stopper, its more of a mass, obsorbs vibration and also seals, also controls the sound, this is what an installer told me, from what i remember. this guy did 2 layers on his roof in the subaru, its solid, my 4runner roof is hollow and its noisy when it rains.
 
I did all four doors (outer skin, some of the outer 1/2 of inner skin, & inside of inner skin) & the tailgate. I only used 1 layer on the roof; I was concerned with it possibly "peeling" off. I did use 2 layers on parts of the floor. I also did as much of the exterior panels as I could reach on the rear 1/4s.

If you attempt this, I recommend outlining any panels / brakets that mount flush to the body and NOT adding anything there. I was concerned about fitment of panels on replacement. In my photos, you can see I left spaces where the front seats mount and where the rear panels mount to the floor in the cargo area (among others...). I also did not cover over any of the rubber grommets.

My roof, although not "silent", is much less "hollow" now in the rain.
 
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That installer misled you or may have misspoke. Dyna-mat's purpose is actually vibration dampening. It's been used for stereo installs for years because is doesn't allow sheet metal the chance to transmit vibration. Sheet metal in a car works the same way as a tuning fork, albeit in a far more curtailed way. If you were to place the smallest amount of dyna-mat (or even chewing gum!) on a tuning fork, it would stop the vibration of the tines and though you'd hear the initial impact of the striker on the fork, you wouldn't hear the reverberations as you would normally. The dyna-mat is far more refined than chewing gum, but the principal is very similar. As a sound dampener it works to a certain point (NOTHING is perfect). Initial impacts will still be heard (rock noise, etc), and road noise is impossible to eliminate 100% from a vehicle, but the Dyna-mat does a great job of cutting down on road noise.

Cheers!
 
Back in my heavy-bass days, I used sound deadening like crazy. My 2nd gen. was completely covered in the stuff.

I have a few suggestions for anyone wanting to try laying this stuff down.

First, clean all of the surfaces well. This should be fairly obvious but the tacky material/adhesives will stick much better on a clean surface.

Second, use a heat gun or hair dryer to completely dry the surface where you will be laying the matting down. ANY moisture that might be trapped between the panels and the deadening material will get out through the panel, not the matting. Plus, the heat will make the material more pliable and help the adhesive to stick better.

Third tip/trick...buy a cheap pair of scissors or a box cutter that you won't be upset with tossing out after all the cutting is done. The rubberized compound used to make this stuff will likely stick (kinda smears if that makes sense) to any blade that cuts it. My wife was pissed off about her favorite scissors.

Lastly, Dynamat is killer stuff but relatively expensive. There are other companies that make virtually the same products for less. I used B-Quiet sound deadening material products on my second sound-deadened car (the first used Dynamat) and felt it was equal quality and was happy with both.

I don't mean to hijack this thread, just trying to give some insight. Also, great work on the original post. It looks great.
 
Back in my heavy-bass days, I used sound deadening like crazy. My 2nd gen. was completely covered in the stuff.

I have a few suggestions for anyone wanting to try laying this stuff down.

First, clean all of the surfaces well. This should be fairly obvious but the tacky material/adhesives will stick much better on a clean surface.

Second, use a heat gun or hair dryer to completely dry the surface where you will be laying the matting down. ANY moisture that might be trapped between the panels and the deadening material will get out through the panel, not the matting. Plus, the heat will make the material more pliable and help the adhesive to stick better.

Third tip/trick...buy a cheap pair of scissors or a box cutter that you won't be upset with tossing out after all the cutting is done. The rubberized compound used to make this stuff will likely stick (kinda smears if that makes sense) to any blade that cuts it. My wife was pissed off about her favorite scissors.

Lastly, Dynamat is killer stuff but relatively expensive. There are other companies that make virtually the same products for less. I used B-Quiet sound deadening material products on my second sound-deadened car (the first used Dynamat) and felt it was equal quality and was happy with both.

I don't mean to hijack this thread, just trying to give some insight. Also, great work on the original post. It looks great.


These are tips that I left out, so thank you for adding them! The box taped to the table worked for me, and my box cutter has disposable blades. surprisingly enough (maybe not given the cold), the blade did not get gunked up at all. Also, I got the dynamat extreme kit (qty9, 4 sq. ft. sheets) for 45 bucks from Amazon. good price!
 
glock.... I used between 120 & 150 square feet. I originally ordered a 60 square foot roll and unfortunatly I got more involed in it than I had expected and had to order a second roll. I also used some cheap soundproofing (the extra amount over 120') for areas that I doubled up or areas that didn't really need much or any (like the transmission tunnel.
So, I would say that if you are planning on doing a fairly thorough job, had at least 100 square feet on hand.

brochogg, I completely agree with your suggestions, I cleaned all the areas I did with denatured alcohol. Also press this stuff FIRMLY to the surface. I occationally would get an airbubble under it. Just slit the bubble with the razor & work the air out. I looked at B-Quiet & think it was comparable to the RAMMat that I used
 
Great write-up! I'm planning on doing this someday. Pics of how the rear cargo net clips come apart would've been handy 2years ago when i put in the toyota XM kit.
 
Pics of how the rear cargo net clips come apart would've been handy 2years ago when i put in the toyota XM kit.

Don't i know it!!! I just used some pliers to mangle one and then check it out. that clip cost me 15 bucks at the stealership!!! So I figured I'd post pics to save some others some cash...
 

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