Soundproofing cargo area ?

LockeLamora said:
They didn't do any on the outer panel, just the inner part, and they put a ton so its real hard if not almost impossible to fit some mlv over and get the panels back on. I will give that another go before i take everything off, or attempt it, but the cargo door we did and around the wheel wells sound alot better (more dense) when you knock them then the doors.
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I see. I thought you were pulling off tiles from the outer skin. If there are none there it will sound tinny.

Try a heat gun to remove a layer or two. (You need to get it over 150 degrees, maybe hotter) It's going to be really messy and painfully hot so wear some mechanics or leather gloves that you never want to use again. Or finds an area where the temps are sub 0. May come off that way as well.
 
tigger said:
I see. I thought you were pulling off tiles from the outer skin. If there are none there it will sound tinny.

Try a heat gun to remove a layer or two. (You need to get it over 150 degrees, maybe hotter) It's going to be really messy and painfully hot so wear some mechanics or leather gloves that you never want to use again. Or finds an area where the temps are sub 0. May come off that way as well.
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lol can't wait!
 
tigger said:
CLD in the outer skin, CCF and MLV on the inner skin.


I used vinyl to cover where the vapor barrier was then added a piece of CLD over that (just in case I have to get back inside.
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Wait I'm confused again. Isn't the vapor barrier on the inner skin? And you said you don't use CLD on the inner skin but then you said you used vinyl then CLD where the vapor barrier was.
 
Neauxla said:
Wait I'm confused again. Isn't the vapor barrier on the inner skin? And you said you don't use CLD on the inner skin but then you said you used vinyl then CLD where the vapor barrier was.
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Sorry to confuse. The vapor barrier is on the inner skin. I used CLD over the vinyl that I placed where the vapor barrier was. It was very thin vinyl and I wanted something thicker over the opening, but wanted to still have access to the inner door if needed.

There is no CLD actually stuck to the metal of the inner panel. Although there is nothing wrong with doing that and it is beneficial if you do add some to the inner panel.
 
tigger said:
Sorry to confuse. The vapor barrier is on the inner skin. I used CLD over the vinyl that I placed where the vapor barrier was. It was very thin vinyl and I wanted something thicker over the opening, but wanted to still have access to the inner door if needed.

There is no CLD actually stuck to the metal of the inner panel. Although there is nothing wrong with doing that and it is beneficial if you do add some to the inner panel.
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Ok, thanks. Might try my hand at this in the next few weeks to reduce some road noise.
 
tigger said:
Sorry to confuse. The vapor barrier is on the inner skin. I used CLD over the vinyl that I placed where the vapor barrier was. It was very thin vinyl and I wanted something thicker over the opening, but wanted to still have access to the inner door if needed.
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And you were still able to fit CCF and MLV over the thin vinyl+CLD that covered the opening?
 
tigger said:
I see. I thought you were pulling off tiles from the outer skin. If there are none there it will sound tinny.

Try a heat gun to remove a layer or two. (You need to get it over 150 degrees, maybe hotter) It's going to be really messy and painfully hot so wear some mechanics or leather gloves that you never want to use again. Or finds an area where the temps are sub 0. May come off that way as well.
Click to expand...

Just took a door off and really looked at it and thought about it...not gonna mess with it. It's fully covered by some roadkill extreme on the inside, yeah I would have liked to do all 3 layers, but I can't bring myself to do it right now.
 
trex9K said:
Is there anyone on the West Coast that specializes in sound proofing?
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Any car audio shop should be able to do this type of work, specifically the higher-end car audio shops in your area.

If they're selling swapmeet stereos (like Kenford or Rockwood!), they are not high-end. If they're selling Blaupunkt or Kenwood/Alpine/Pioneer, they are probably higher end stores.
 
I think you guys would be shocked as to how much quieting happens with just the CLD tiles. For those of you who are on the fence in doing this as a project, try installing JUST the CLD tiles in the doors ONLY, doing a good job covering the inner and outer skins, then see if that's enough soundproofing for you. That alone will almost eliminate any rattling and all the sound transfering through the metal body completely.

If its still not enough for you, then move forward with the other products to really insulate the outside noise from the interior.

I've done several vehicles with just the CLD tiles, most of them were done way back when people didn't even know of MLV and CCF, and they all quieted down considerably! Taking an '87 toyota xtra cab and putting CLD tiles everywhere was a night and day difference! Of course, I now have Ensolite throughout that same truck and it pulled it down even further in db reduction, but I still belive the CLD tiles did the most to quiet the cab down.

Can't say whether this is the case with the 4runner, as I did everything at once, but I'd definitely suggest doing at least CLD tiles yourself, taking your time to learn about what's behind the interior of your vehicle. It will make it much easier to tear back into it if/when you feel the reduction still isn't enough!
 
flyinhawaiian01 said:
I think you guys would be shocked as to how much quieting happens with just the CLD tiles. For those of you who are on the fence in doing this as a project, try installing JUST the CLD tiles in the doors ONLY, doing a good job covering the inner and outer skins, then see if that's enough soundproofing for you. That alone will almost eliminate any rattling and all the sound transfering through the metal body completely.

If its still not enough for you, then move forward with the other products to really insulate the outside noise from the interior.

I've done several vehicles with just the CLD tiles, most of them were done way back when people didn't even know of MLV and CCF, and they all quieted down considerably! Taking an '87 toyota xtra cab and putting CLD tiles everywhere was a night and day difference! Of course, I now have Ensolite throughout that same truck and it pulled it down even further in db reduction, but I still belive the CLD tiles did the most to quiet the cab down.

Can't say whether this is the case with the 4runner, as I did everything at once, but I'd definitely suggest doing at least CLD tiles yourself, taking your time to learn about what's behind the interior of your vehicle. It will make it much easier to tear back into it if/when you feel the reduction still isn't enough!
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If I'm gonna take my car apart. I'd rather do it all at once :
 
For the floors, just left it on top, it's heavy and won't move. For the wheel wells and doors Velcro. some people recommend glue but I didn't want to worry about getting some that would melt or smell. Industrial strength is what I've been using.
 

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I just spent 4 hours on the front passenger door...only to have to rip the MLV off because I couldn't get my panel back on.

FML
 
tigger said:
At Hawaiian said, you need to clean the door where you are sticking the CLD. It has to endure extreme heat and cold and not all types stick equally. The better you can clean it, the better the results.

Outer door skin with CLD applied.

150672d1427176612-stereo-prep-stereo06.jpg


Inner door with Radiant barrier. I had to change this out for CCF as it was too thick. I didn't take a picture of the replacement layer.
Make sure you replace the vapor barrier with something before adding this layer. (the plastic you removed to get to the inside)

152140d1428139988-stereo-prep-stereo63.jpg


Inner door with MLV

152141d1428139991-stereo-prep-stereo64.jpg
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How did you get your door panel back on? I tried for over an hour and ended up just ripping my MLV off.
 
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