Soundproofing cargo area ?

[tigger]

How did you get your door panel back on? I tried for over an hour and ended up just ripping my MLV off.

I should get some updated pics. In this pic, I have the MVL to the edges. It wouldn't work that way, so I ended up trimming the MLV to just inside of the panel clips. Once I did that, it fit just fine.

So the sides and bottom are now trimmed to just inside of the tape line. How I did that was instead of trimming to fit the door, I laid the door panel on the bench and cut the MLV to fit inside of that. Once it was trimmed to lay in there, there were no more issues installing the panels. Did that with the tail gate panel as well.

 

[Neauxla]

I should get some updated pics. In this pic, I have the MVL to the edges. It wouldn't work that way, so I ended up trimming the MLV to just inside of the panel clips. Once I did that, it fit just fine.

So the sides and bottom are now trimmed to just inside of the tape line. How I did that was instead of trimming to fit the door, I laid the door panel on the bench and cut the MLV to fit inside of that. Once it was trimmed to lay in there, there were no more issues installing the panels. Did that with the tail gate panel as well.

Guess I will give it another try next weekend

 

[Peglegs]

There are 2 areas on the front door panel that stick out and will need space to get the door panel back on. At the top is a point to help align it, and at the bottom on the backside of the cupholder is an area that sticks out a lot. The original vapor barrier had an area indented to make space.

 

[Neauxla]

There are 2 areas on the front door panel that stick out and will need space to get the door panel back on. At the top is a point to help align it, and at the bottom on the backside of the cupholder is an area that sticks out a lot. The original vapor barrier had an area indented to make space.

[MENTION=120209]tigger[/MENTION] Did you do anything to accommodate this? Slack in the MLV?

 

[IanMohammed]

Soundproofing and Gas Mileage

Here's a weird question; Did anyone see a negative effect on gas mileage after installing their sound proofing? I did it to my camry and now I want to do it to the 4R but the camry definitely had a negative effect afterwards. I did the dynomat in the doors, trunk and upgraded the carpet, just fyi.

 

[Hawaiian4runner]

Here's a weird question; Did anyone see a negative effect on gas mileage after installing their sound proofing? I did it to my camry and now I want to do it to the 4R but the camry definitely had a negative effect afterwards. I did the dynomat in the doors, trunk and upgraded the carpet, just fyi.

Dynomat is pretty heavy. How much did you use? I gain more weight after a good buffet than the weight of my dynomat. Sounds to me like your jumping to the wrong conclusion.

 

[flyinhawaiian01]

BWWWAAHAAHAHAHAAAA!!! Eh Hawaiian, which buffet? Kengos??? LOL!

I have a roll of fatmat, its 50 feet, thing is only 23lbs. I only used about half that roll in the 4runner! You'd have to use about 8 or 10 rolls of the stuff to actually notice a decrease in performance. And the other stuff shouldn't be much more than another 10 or so pounds.

 

[Neauxla]

I dunno about Dynamat but my Kno Noise was 1lb/sq. foot

 

[Hawaiian4runner]

BWWWAAHAAHAHAHAAAA!!! Eh Hawaiian, which buffet? Kengos??? LOL!

I have a roll of fatmat, its 50 feet, thing is only 23lbs. I only used about half that roll in the 4runner! You'd have to use about 8 or 10 rolls of the stuff to actually notice a decrease in performance. And the other stuff shouldn't be much more than another 10 or so pounds.

Kengos I wish. They've been gone for over 10 years. To tell you the truth, I don't buffet much any more. Getting too old. I don't get my monies worth

 

[Hawaiian4runner]

BWWWAAHAAHAHAHAAAA!!! Eh Hawaiian, which buffet? Kengos??? LOL!

I have a roll of fatmat, its 50 feet, thing is only 23lbs. I only used about half that roll in the 4runner! You'd have to use about 8 or 10 rolls of the stuff to actually notice a decrease in performance. And the other stuff shouldn't be much more than another 10 or so pounds.

While we're on the subject of sound proofing. All of the insulation people I know and also the so called experts on the internet pretty much all say that Open Cell Foam is a better sound insulator than Closed Cell. They say closed cell is for thermal insulation. What's your take on that?

 

[LockeLamora]

While we're on the subject of sound proofing. All of the insulation people I know and also the so called experts on the internet pretty much all say that Open Cell Foam is a better sound insulator than Closed Cell. They say closed cell is for thermal insulation. What's your take on that?

Use both but lay down some resonance tiles too!

 

[tigger]

[MENTION=120209]tigger[/MENTION] Did you do anything to accommodate this? Slack in the MLV?

I removed the foam block on the back side of the door panel, then built it back up a little with some foam insulation tape and some scrap pieces of radiant barrier to keep the panel from resonating. I also ran the insulation around the door panel to replace the foam strip that was there with something a little better
Frost King E/O 3/4 in. x 7/16 in. x 10 ft. Black High-Density Rubber Foam Weatherstrip Tape-R734H - The Home Depot

Here's a weird question; Did anyone see a negative effect on gas mileage after installing their sound proofing? I did it to my camry and now I want to do it to the 4R but the camry definitely had a negative effect afterwards. I did the dynomat in the doors, trunk and upgraded the carpet, just fyi.

Depends on the level you go to. I added 50+ sq ft of KnoKnoise at 1lb/sq ft. The closed cell foam weighed very little.
And the MLV was close to 3/4 lb/sq ft. So I am in the range of 125 to 150 lbs of additional weight. The equivalent of an additional passenger.

While we're on the subject of sound proofing. All of the insulation people I know and also the so called experts on the internet pretty much all say that Open Cell Foam is a better sound insulator than Closed Cell. They say closed cell is for thermal insulation. What's your take on that?

You don't want to use open cell foam in a wet environment as it absorbs water and then will mildew. Each reduces certain frequencies but closed cell foam works better in conjunction with MLV.

 

[Neauxla]

I removed the foam block on the back side of the door panel,

That would have been good to know. What's that foam block for anyway? I couldn't tell. Has anyone else done this?

 

[tigger]

That would have been good to know. What's that foam block for anyway? I couldn't tell. Has anyone else done this?

Sorry, didn't write it up as a DIY. Was just part of the build thread. But I did mention in my build thread that I removed everything on the back side of the door.

This was done a year ago, so all of the details don't come back to me immediately.

I think the foam block is just to add pressure in the large non-secured area to reduce vibrations, but I could be wrong.

 

[Neauxla]

Yeah, I know. Just frustrated I spent so long on that damn door and ended up ripping it all out. :cheers:

 

[Peglegs]

While we're on the subject of sound proofing. All of the insulation people I know and also the so called experts on the internet pretty much all say that Open Cell Foam is a better sound insulator than Closed Cell. They say closed cell is for thermal insulation. What's your take on that?

You are correct. The way it works is Open cell foam absorbs the sound waves by getting inside the cells and cancelling themselves out by being bounced around the cell into each other. Closed cell foam does not absorb because the sound waves can't get into the cells.

Closed cell foam is used in a car as a mechanical decoupler between things that make noise when they bounce against each other, like mass loaded vinyl and door frame, or dangling wires and door frame

Open cell foam in areas that get wet (between your inner and outer door frames) will mold. closed cell foam is much less likely to mold

The thickness of the open cell foam determines what frequencies will be absorbed due to the length of sound waves. skinny = only high frequencies. Most automotive uses of foam are mainly decoupling. Dash pads are helpful for tweeters mounted above or in the dash

These guys are smarter than me on the automotive topic: https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

Also, on the weight topic mentioned elsewhere. There is a thread on DIYMA.com that tested many brands of CLD tiles with weight as one of the tests. If I had more time I would link it, but it can be found easily. If I remember correctly Dynamat Pro did real well at dampening with one of the lowest weights in the group.
I'm mixing products from sounddeadershowdown and raammat

 

[Neauxla]

For those that have done this, how different is removing as re-attaching the tailgate panel than the other doors? How do you re-attach it with the tailgate up?

 

[sandcrawler]

For those that have done this, how different is removing as re-attaching the tailgate panel than the other doors? How do you re-attach it with the tailgate up?

it's quite easy; no screws to remove like the doors. just pull at the tabs, unplug the light harnesses, and slip it up and out the top window channel. [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] has a good demo here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/92013-antmans-thread-40.html#post1147349

 

[Neauxla]

Thanks! Hopefully I don't need stronger hydraulics w/ the added weight of the knonoise

 

[sandcrawler]

Thanks! Hopefully I don't need stronger hydraulics w/ the added weight of the knonoise

you probably will. eventually, at least. Lift Support Depot has good, inexpensive ones.