Spare CV

Based on your location I'd think you end up in the rocks pretty often. No breakage?
Yep, all the time. No breakage so far, but I don't hammer on it with the front locked and am careful about how much wheel droop and steering angle I am using.
 
But that is not the type of force needed to get the snap ring to release on these. It does much better with a quick snap/jerk/tap.... and why risk damaging the seal.

Friends tease me about me packing my slide hammer... Until they need to borrow it. Best to use tools designed for the job is just my personal preference. I'm with you on this one.
 
Yep, all the time. No breakage so far, but I don't hammer on it with the front locked and am careful about how much wheel droop and steering angle I am using.
good point about wheel drop, but it sort of works out that there is usually 0 TQ with full wheel drop. But it can grab from that position when trying to use momentum... I'm such a wuss with the throttle on mine. I cringe at situations that absolutely require lots of momentum. Still trying to learn those boundaries.
 
But that is not the type of force needed to get the snap ring to release on these. It does much better with a quick snap/jerk/tap.... and why risk damaging the seal.

It's just done that way because it's easy and quick. Not because it's the best necessarily. That's how all the old manuals do it as well. I doubt you'll see a mechanic in a shop use a slide hammer very often. Doesn't make it right, just how it's normally done. I think the slide hammer is probably easier most of the time and replaced the pry bar due to the easy of getting into the right spot.

Toyota used to suggest something similar for example:
cf444f3a768d4f3b6e0f8f2de3fe3888.jpg

large.jpg
 
Last edited:
Is it fair to say you really are doing a trail repair if you have a Limited and can't switch to RWD with a broken CV axle?
 
Is it fair to say you really are doing a trail repair if you have a Limited and can't switch to RWD with a broken CV axle?

If the cv axle is actually broken - probably not. You'll need to remove it because the loose end will flop around. This would be the case on either a limited or any other model. If you go really slow it probably won't damage anything else, but it may.

If you don't have a trail spare - the only way I know of to get you off the trail would be to pull the axle out, disassemble it. Then re-install the remaining part of the cv joints back into the differential and into the hub to keep contaminants out. In that case you could then lock the center diff and drive in 2wd.
 
Is it fair to say you really are doing a trail repair if you have a Limited and can't switch to RWD with a broken CV axle?

Yes. You will need to do a trail repair. I carry a spare CV on technical trails for that purpose. Haven't needed it yet, but if I didn't have it...
 
That's what I did when I replaced my front diff.

Has anyone broken a CV on a 5th gen or 2010+ FJC, yet? Not counting boots, but actual broken OEM joint or shaft?

My son ('04 LE) broke one of the NAPA new replacements (not a re-man). It was less than 10 days old and broke in the shaft, not one of the joints. I would guess there was a defect in the shaft. He was in the dirt, but relatively smooth ground and running at 30 mph. When it broke it flailed around enough to take out the PS pump.
 
Is it fair to say you really are doing a trail repair if you have a Limited and can't switch to RWD with a broken CV axle?

The CV axles turn on all models all the time since there is no hub disconnect... Only difference on the limited is that they are being driven by the diff all the time, vs just turned by the wheels when in 2wd on a part time system.

A hurt CV would might let you limp out in 2wd, but it seems like any breakage would be flopping around pretty bad unless you took it apart like JetBoy mentioned.
 
If you break an axle and have no spare you could try this: break the boot band on the inboard t-case boot end, and pull the tripod (and axle) out of the bell, while leaving the bell intact and in-place, it will stay in place and act as a seal, and would not cause any additional damage. The only thing that needs to be left behind is the bell. Of course, you would still have to be prepared with tools to loosen the knuckle bottom, and to pull the axle parts and the shaft out of the hub. You could stick a rag or something into the hole left from the absence of the outer axle and hub.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but you also need the outer piece still bolted into the hub. That shaft with the 32mm nut is what holds the hub together....
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but you also need the outer piece still bolted into the hub. That shaft with the 32mm nut is what holds the hub together....
Good point. I was thinking about getting out of a trail in limp mode. The hub assembly is only pressed together, not sure how long it would hold up without the axle shaft in back and nut pressing against the front.
 
Cool. So people just need to do the same thing you explained with the inner cv bell with the outer cv bell. Cut the boots, pull out the axle and tripod assembly, then re-install the inner bell to the diff and outer bell back in the hub.

:cheers:
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,055
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top