Speaker Replacement Opinions
- Thread starter keyser_soze
- Start date
so its to facillitate the addition of the sub? thanks.
mdrudy
New member
[MENTION=124049]keyser_soze[/MENTION]
Is this the same (or similar) sub that you are thinking of getting? It looks real similar but the model numbers are off a little bit and it says it has 150 watts as opposed to 125. Sorry if I jumped in here....didn't mean to hijack.
Soundstream USB-8A 8-Inch Powered Subwoofer Slim Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085CAYZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_7dm2vbSY92791
Is this the same (or similar) sub that you are thinking of getting? It looks real similar but the model numbers are off a little bit and it says it has 150 watts as opposed to 125. Sorry if I jumped in here....didn't mean to hijack.
Soundstream USB-8A 8-Inch Powered Subwoofer Slim Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085CAYZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_7dm2vbSY92791
keyser_soze
New member
Yes, a line out allows you to run a sub off of the factory head unit.
Soundstream used to make nice amps back in the 90s. They are still a decent company but they have changed parent companies and the quality has decreased a little.
That sub is very similar to what I ordered, both 8" powered subs meant to fit under a seat. That looks like a really good deal for $115. I thought the Sound Ordinance was a good deal at $150 and it came with an wiring kit.
The wattage ratings can be confusing and many times they are exaggerated. The Sound Ordinance says its amp is 250w peak and 125w RMS. Im not sure on the Soundstream since the manual is a little confusing. It looks like the subwoofer is rated at 200w RMS and the amp powering it is 85w RMS. Then it has a general 150w RMS rating, but doesnt mention any peak ratings.
Soundstream Manual
keyser_soze
New member
Please do, I have never had an under seat sub so I would like to see how it works out. Are you using the factory head unit? If so what line out kit did you go with?
No problem. I know a lot of people say the factory system is the worst they have ever heard. I have not listened to a 10' - 13' system, but my 15' entune sounds decent for a factory system and I don't think it has the bass roll off like the earlier systems.
I decided on the coaxial speakers for the front doors. I'm going to order them when I get paid at the end of the month. I will definitely update this thread with pictures and a review.
mdrudy
New member
I went with this line out converter. I hope it will do the job. It's been a while since I've worked on sound systems.
PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out
Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_sPO2vbHVCS41N
PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out
Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_sPO2vbHVCS41N
DesertRide
New member
Completed a full speaker swap this weekend on a 2015 SR5 with the following:
Dash - JL Audio TR350 3.5
Front Doors - Alpine SPR-69 6x9
Rear Doors - Alpine SPS-610 6.5
Rear - Alpine SPS-610 6.5
Simple install using aftermarket speaker mounts for seamless fit. Needed to complete a small bracket mod to fit the JLs in the dash. Very happy with the results!
Dash - JL Audio TR350 3.5
Front Doors - Alpine SPR-69 6x9
Rear Doors - Alpine SPS-610 6.5
Rear - Alpine SPS-610 6.5
Simple install using aftermarket speaker mounts for seamless fit. Needed to complete a small bracket mod to fit the JLs in the dash. Very happy with the results!
Rbiggers
New member
Yes, Crutchfield has always made excellent suggestions for me over the years. I like to do a review if the product holds up just as they say. This is my first experience with Kicker. But it's been a good one. The speakers were perfect for my needs.
Rbiggers
New member
Did you have any trouble fitting the Alpine 6.5s in the rear doors and back hatch? I installed a set of Polk DB651s in my rear doors this weekend. Crutchfield told me they wouldn't fit, but I gave it a shot since I had the door taken apart for Dynamat anyway. I used the Scosche SAT6 bracket and they mounted up perfectly, but the clearance was VERY tight with the stock grill covers when I put the door skin back on. I really had to work it around to get the bottom door clips to snap back in place. Maybe if I hadn't used speaker baffles between the speaker and bracket, it would have fit a little better? Can't see those baffles adding barely a quarter inch to the mounting height, though.
Did you have this problem, too? Just wondering as I still have another set of the Polk DB651s sitting on the shelf that I might put in the back hatch door. Thanks.
DesertRide
New member
I did not notice any issues with fit. I used the Metra speaker adapters for everything with the exception of the dash. The back hatch speakers are a breeze to install with how easy the panel pops on/off.
Any pictures and installations walk-thru? :thumb:
jeffrosheen
New member
JL Audio C2-350x Evolution? C2 Series 3-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com
Are these too deep for the dash replacement? Thinking about adding these with the Focal "made-to-fit" speakers in the doors
Are these too deep for the dash replacement? Thinking about adding these with the Focal "made-to-fit" speakers in the doors
keyser_soze
New member
Nice setup, any plans to add an amp?
I know you were asking DesertRide, but I do plan on taking some pictures comparing the factory speakers to the Kickers. Also of the mounting depths and clearances
I think the general consensus is that most 3.5" can fit with minimal modification to mount it. DesertRide has the JL TR series in the dash, the C2s look like they have a cover over the magnet but I think they should still fit.
keyser_soze
New member
*UPDATE*
Here is an album of the work I have done so far (The 6x9 mount was just a very quick job to test out the speakers and clearances)
4runner speaker install - Album on Imgur
I installed the front passenger 3.5" and 6x9 to test them out and compare them to the OEM speakers. The highs and mids sound much better, but the lows don't hit as hard as the cheap factory speakers. Another thing is with regular setting the highs can be a little harsh with the 6x9 3-way AND the 3.5" in the dash since they both have tweeters. I think if I just install the 3.5 in the dash and leave the OEM door speakers I can have the low end I want and the 3.5 can clear up the highs for me. (like most do with just the 3.5" Kappa's)
So after being underwhelmed by my initial listening I decided to do some more research. I found a few things... The factory head unit is a 4 channel 4 ohm unit. The front speakers are wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load. I cant get solid info on the rear from the forums, I would guess they are wired in parallel as well.
I also did some reading on r/CarAV and found the following basic info... most people don't like 6x9s, the front sound stage is most important, and components are recommended for the front
These are my new options:
1. return the 6x9s and 6.5s, keep the dash 3.5s and the under seat sub, run the OEM door and rear speakers. It will sound decent and only cost $190
2. return all the Kicker speakers and get a decent set of components, run the OEM rear speakers. My only worry is that if I get decent components that the factory headunit (no factory amp) wont be able to give them enough power to really sound good. If I have to add anamp the price is really going to jump.
KICKER | 6x9" CS Components[7] these would easily fit and are only $140
Focal IS 690TOY 6"x9" component speaker system designed to fit select Toyotas at Crutchfield.com[8] I really dont want to spend this much if they are only going to be slightly better than OEM + 3.5s
3. Keep all the Kickers and install an amp. I already have a harness adapter I made for the sub inputs so all I would have to do is add the rear channel outputs for the amp and the returns for all the speakers. The drawback is this is slowly creeping up in price, would the benefits of the amp justify the price?
Both of these have high level inputs and can fit under my seat
$118 PRIME Amplifiers R300X4 - Prime 300 Watt 4-Channel Amplifier | Rockford Fosgate®[9]
$89 GM-A4604 - <b>NEW!</b> - 4-Channel Bridgeable Amplifier | Pioneer Electronics USA[10]
Here is an album of the work I have done so far (The 6x9 mount was just a very quick job to test out the speakers and clearances)
4runner speaker install - Album on Imgur
I installed the front passenger 3.5" and 6x9 to test them out and compare them to the OEM speakers. The highs and mids sound much better, but the lows don't hit as hard as the cheap factory speakers. Another thing is with regular setting the highs can be a little harsh with the 6x9 3-way AND the 3.5" in the dash since they both have tweeters. I think if I just install the 3.5 in the dash and leave the OEM door speakers I can have the low end I want and the 3.5 can clear up the highs for me. (like most do with just the 3.5" Kappa's)
So after being underwhelmed by my initial listening I decided to do some more research. I found a few things... The factory head unit is a 4 channel 4 ohm unit. The front speakers are wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load. I cant get solid info on the rear from the forums, I would guess they are wired in parallel as well.
I also did some reading on r/CarAV and found the following basic info... most people don't like 6x9s, the front sound stage is most important, and components are recommended for the front
These are my new options:
1. return the 6x9s and 6.5s, keep the dash 3.5s and the under seat sub, run the OEM door and rear speakers. It will sound decent and only cost $190
2. return all the Kicker speakers and get a decent set of components, run the OEM rear speakers. My only worry is that if I get decent components that the factory headunit (no factory amp) wont be able to give them enough power to really sound good. If I have to add anamp the price is really going to jump.
KICKER | 6x9" CS Components[7] these would easily fit and are only $140
Focal IS 690TOY 6"x9" component speaker system designed to fit select Toyotas at Crutchfield.com[8] I really dont want to spend this much if they are only going to be slightly better than OEM + 3.5s
3. Keep all the Kickers and install an amp. I already have a harness adapter I made for the sub inputs so all I would have to do is add the rear channel outputs for the amp and the returns for all the speakers. The drawback is this is slowly creeping up in price, would the benefits of the amp justify the price?
Both of these have high level inputs and can fit under my seat
$118 PRIME Amplifiers R300X4 - Prime 300 Watt 4-Channel Amplifier | Rockford Fosgate®[9]
$89 GM-A4604 - <b>NEW!</b> - 4-Channel Bridgeable Amplifier | Pioneer Electronics USA[10]
iambhooper
New member
A pool table doing what a pool table does best... holding stuff! Nice!
What do you think of the powered sub? I had a local shop replace the 3.5s, but need some base. Did you pull the signal from the front speakers or rear?
What do you think of the powered sub? I had a local shop replace the 3.5s, but need some base. Did you pull the signal from the front speakers or rear?
DEERUNNER
Member
May be due to not enough power, but usually accompanied by distortion if under powered. You may want to check the phase of the new woofer and the new speakers. Out of phase speakers will often sound hollow and have less bass. The woof can have a large effect. Also add some foam around the 3.5 speakers to block the back waves from cancelling certain frequencies.
keyser_soze
New member
I haven't installed the sub yet. I just got the harness adapters today so I will probably put the sub in on thursday or friday.
I haven't installed the sub yet. I was just working on the speakers and comparing them to the OEM and things kinda slowed down there.
They are not out of phase. The lows sound good, they are more accurate than the OEM just not a deep. I was on a car av forum and someone posted about how I needed to finish and seal up the mount to get the lows. Also I was listening with the door panel off. Just by putting the door panel back on made the lows a little better. Im going to finish up the mount today and I think that will bring the lows as deep as the OEM speakers.
I really don't want to add an amp or components because of the added price and wiring complexity. I think I'm going to stay with the 6x9s, 3.5s and sub. I think Im going to save some time and money and return the rear speakers. Most of the AV guys say the front sound stage is most important and the rear speakers are just fill. That and I usually don't have rear passengers, and even if I do I don't care what they think of my stereo.
