Steel City Racing: King of the Hammers 2019 Toyota 4Runner IFS 4600 Build Thread

One more question. I bought a AEM Air / Fuel Ratio gauge. It says to install 18” downstream, but before cats.

The URD Y-Pipe has an extra bung for it. But the bung is of course after the cats and 90 Degress vs 80 or 110 degrees (10 degree angle).

I couldn’t see a good spot before the cats that was far enough downstream and am thinking of doing after the cats in the URD Y-Pipe hole even though it isn’t perfect.

Think this will work?

I'm also asking Gadget about using the extra bung after the cats for AFR despite AEM's instructions to only use before the cats.

There really isn't a spot that is 18" downstream before the cats... After is likely my only choice and the URD Y-Pipe makes it easy with an extra bung already included.
 
Code:
"P0031 - Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 1" and P0031 came up 3 other times too.

Also had "C1223 - Malfunction in Antilock Brake System Control System", and "C1201 - Engine Control System Malfunction" which I assume are all due to the O2 Sensor code causing VSC to go off.

I also pinged Gadget as it isn't supposed to throw a code.

It's nice to have VSC off. Although I'd rather put a switch in to turn it off on demand.

Check all your abs wiring from the engine bay to the front wheels. The ABS malfunction makes me think you knocked a wire out of a harness since that and the VSC, and the engine control system are all on.
 
Check all your abs wiring from the engine bay to the front wheels. The ABS malfunction makes me think you knocked a wire out of a harness since that and the VSC, and the engine control system are all on.

I'll double check the wiring, but I spoke with Gadget and he said it sounds like we might have damaged the heater element in the bank 1 FRONT sensor. He said if I used an Impact on the Y-Pipe, which I did, I likely damaged the sensor (supposedly they are very brittle) with rattling of the pipe.

Anyone know the Denso part number on this sensor?

I found this on the forum:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/103523-p0031-04-4runner-v8-part.html
"OK. Just wanted to update in case anyone has similar problem. On V8's, the sensors are marked as following: Sensor 1 is pre-cat. Bank 1 is driver's side. Bank 2 his passenger side. I think this is reversed for V6's.
The 2 front (pre-cat) sensors are the same on the V8's. The Toyota part # is 8946560150. I bought mine OEM from Conicelli (Conicelli Partznet | Used dealership in ,) for $121 including shipping. Easiest way to get to it is through wheel well. There is a rubber flap with a bunch of snaps. Unsnap the snaps and flap will rotate out of the way. The little baby is tucked inside there. Hope this helps."
 
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Per Denso website:

Part/Stock # Engine Qty Notes
Air Fuel Ratio Sensor
234-9051
Engine: V8 (4.7L)
CC: 4663
CID: 285
2
Label: OE Style
Position: Upstream

Is this correct? If so, per Amazon ($106):
https://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-90...qid=1530560817&sr=8-1&keywords=denso+234-9051

Yes. Those are correct. That is what I ordered and they have worked great. I tried to cheap out and get ones off ebay and they were garbage imitations. Personally I would buy two and keep the one old one that is good for a spare. That's what did.
 
Pirate was not friendly to this question, so I'll post here instead :)

Suggestions needed: What fuel cell should we be looking at? Recall it'll be mounted in the cargo area just behind where the rear seat is today.

After 5-mins of Google Searching, I found:
JAZ Pro Sport II 22 Gal Fuel Cell (JAZ28012206)

https://www.kartek.com/parts/jaz-pro...4w-10-12h.html

What size is right?

What about internal baffles? I've heard nightmares of foam disintegrating and being sucked through the filters, pumps, and lines. Is there an alternative to foam?

KOH Rules state:
d) Safety fuel cells shall consist of a bladder enclosed in a smooth-skinned container. The container shall be constructed of 20 gauge steel, 0.060” aluminum. Magnesium is strictly prohibited. Container must be securely attached to vehicle with bolts or steel straps. All fittings must be built into the container skin and bonded to the container skin as an integral part of the tank or mechanically sealed by a ring and counter-ring system by either flat joint or an O-ring. Internal baffling is mandatory in all fuel cells. Foam is an acceptable form of internal baffling.
Bladder construction shall be of nylon or Dacron woven fabric impregnated and coated with a fuel resistant elastomer. Rotary molded polymer cells are acceptable when encapsulated in a container constructed of 20 ga. Steel or 0.060” aluminum.
 
That tank might be good if you want to run out of gas.

My advice is, don't run foam. There are lots of home brew alternatives. Some people swear by certain types of foam, good foam costs a lot and even then might not handle ethanol. Jaz's foam sucks dick imo
 
That tank might be good if you want to run out of gas.

My advice is, don't run foam. There are lots of home brew alternatives. Some people swear by certain types of foam, good foam costs a lot and even then might not handle ethanol. Jaz's foam sucks dick imo

Thanks. No foam! I'll probably use Alltech motorsports for baffling.

Home
 
Update: I'm close to being finished with the DD - maybe 2-weeks left - then I can stop driving the 4th gen and the true tear-down begins. More updates below:

In Process:
- Front Suspension and Steering are being fabricated
- Front RCV Front Axle Shafts are being engineered
- Rear RockSolidToys 4-Link Suspension brackets are completed
- Rear Currie RJ60 is being made (not sure if they have done gearing or not yet)
- AEM Fuel System gauges (2) likely go in this week

Still working on:
- URD MAF Calibrator in the mail
- Fiberwerx Fenders in the mail
- PRP Seats being ordered
- Locking down sponsors for Armor and Tires
- Lock down fuel cell dimensions and dual-pump system

I'm also struggling to find reasonably priced 4th gen salvage doors shells (4) and lift gate to gut. If anyone knows of any in the Southeast, PM me!
 
More to come on the steering, IFS, and axle shafts. One hint here: The steering, IFS Suspension, and Axle Shafts are NOT available on the market today :).

Marlin LT and Mar-Rack maybe?

Loving the discussion and seeing how this progresses. Interested in seeing the Atlas case in the works too!
 
Quick Update: Four salvage doors are being loaded on a pallet as we speak and will be go out tonight. Picked up all 4 shipped for less than 1 locally. Patience paid off big and allows me to put $ back into other parts of the budget.

More updates:
- Warn Zeon 10-S Platinum Winch in the mail
- URD MAF Calibrator in the mail
- Fiberwerx Fenders in the mail
- PRP Seats Ordered
- PRP Harnesses Ordered
- Solid progress on the Front Suspension and Steering this week

Will dive into fuel cell and system later this week. Need to take some measurements of the cargo area before I order a cell - any suggestion on a good type for a good price (size TBD)?

Still looking to lock down my final tire sponsor. If you've got suggestions, PM me. I've got good pricing from one option already, but think we can get more.
 
Question: 3/4 Salvage doors are Limited with Side cladding. The '06 is obviously a limited.

One of the doors (Drivers) is a smooth SR5. Is it possible to put the Limited Cladding on the SR5 so they all match before I wrap it?

They're on Ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-4Ru...m=352355011892&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Thanks.
I'd imagine it's the same mounting points. I ripped mine off a couple weekends ago.

936f5c5df8bf934f33142325faa25582.jpg


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Update:
I've been out of town the past week, but here is a quick update on this build:
1) Our new Warn ZEON Platinum 10-S winch arrived yesterday. It's a thing of beauty and the remote will definitely come in handly for our co-driver at KOH!

37209595_381241072399839_4960854477201473536_n.jpg


2) I knocked out a few small projects, including swapping in a new O2 sensor damaged when we did the Y-Pipe cat delete (this 4.7L V8 is really squeezed in there). The new sensor eliminted the CEL I was getting. I'm still waiting on the URD MAF Calibrator to arrive and will install my AEM gauges before we do final tuning.

37328905_381460289044584_638569578586177536_n.jpg


3) The Salvage doors arrive on Wed. Then I'll check out the internal bracing and see how much more we want to cut. I'm hoping they are really light in already gutted condition.

4) We are now only down to one sponsor need for tires. I've reached out to BFG, Goodyear, Maxxis, Nitto, Cooper, and Falken. So far Falken and Maxxis have shown strongest interest.

5) I've finalized plans with two additional sponsors. More to come on these in a few weeks.

Finally, the DD should be back from paint by the end of next week at the latest and ready for reassembly. As soon as it is done, the interior tear-down on this one will begin along with the doors and front fenders. Then the transformation will really begin to take shape. Thanks for your patience!
 

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I'd imagine it's the same mounting points. I ripped mine off a couple weekends ago.

936f5c5df8bf934f33142325faa25582.jpg


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I think the 1 SR5 door is flat panel, so it may not work. They'll be "modified" regardless, so no big deal either way. Just wanted them to be uniform for the wrap if possible.
 
I thought it may help to give a glimpse into the behind the scenes a little more. If you're only watching this thread for the hardcore stuff that is yet to come, skip this post.

From what I know so far, here is what it takes to make something like this Steel City Racing KOH project happen! Since I really committed to this build in May, I've spent a lot of time:
- Reading the Ultra4 rulebook 3-4 times and making lists of everything I have to get done to pass tech and stay within the 4600 class rules
- Creating a budget and a "dream build" list of To-Dos that fit the vision of this build and the 4600 class rules
- Pulling together the story of this project, which was critical for grabbing initial sponsor interest
- Filling out sponsorship paperwork, online forms, and legal documents - probably 50 forms filled out in total
- Building momentum with sponsors. Once you land 2-3, it does get easier.
- Landing sponsors, we are now up to 15 with 1 mandatory (Tires) sponsor remaining and 3 optional ones outstanding
- Creating relationships with groups like Marlin Crawler and RockSolidToys who believe in your vision and are willing to do whatever it takes to make it happen. Without BigMike and Wyatt in particular - and their willingness to connect us with others in the industry and build amazing parts for this rig - this build would be tough!

In today's age, the currency is no longer build-threads on forums. I'm doing build threads like this for ideas, diversity of thought, and because I think they are mostly extinct today which is a shame. Instead, it's social media that brings sponsors to the table. So, I had to:
- Create a rendering of how the vehicle will look
- Create social media campaigns for Facebook and Instagram (more time consuming than I had expected)
- Get the word out on forums, family & friends, and with Toyota enthusiasts.
- Constantly post new content to keep the interest (tough some days)

I then was finally able to get rolling - so, I started
- Looking for a no-rust, low mileage, affordably priced 4th gen v8 4x4 Sport or Limited (much harder to find than expected)
- Finishing my DD so I can tear into this one (still have a few weeks left - it's in Paint now)

We entered Phase I - Engine Performance, which I could do while the DD wasn't complete:
- Install Magnaflow exhaust, URD y-pipe with cat delete, new Denso O2 sensors, aFe Power air intake, URD 170 degree thermostat, AEM AFR and Fuel Pressure gauges, Doug Torley Headers (not yet installed), and URD MAF Calibrator (in the mail)

At the same time, I am still acquiring parts:
- The Warn ZEON 10-S Platinum winch arrived
- Fiberwerx Fenders are in the mail
- Front seats and harnesses are in the mail (seat brackets arrived)
- Salvage doors arrive on a 18-wheeler today (still looking for a liftgate)

Once the DD is done in a few weeks, I can tear out the 4th gen interior and remove exterior stuff, remove the stock doors, start on the fuel system, and work on armor (more to come here with a sponsor I just landed on Monday).

As we speak, the following is also in process:
- Rear RJ60 is ordered and being built
- Front suspension prototype should be complete in the next 2-4 weeks
- Front steering prototype is on the same timeline
- Front RCV Next Gen axle shafts are being engineered but won't be ready till the Fall
- Rear bumper prototype is being engineered and will be ready in the Fall
- Atlas II is being ordered
- Rear 4-Link is done and ready to be installed once the front suspension is on
- Coilovers, Coils, and Shocks are ready to go once the suspension is on
- Tires (still need a sponsor here) and Wheels will be ordered
- Driveshafts are envisioned and final specs will be dialed in once the suspension is on and final angles/measurements can be taken
- Roll cage is envisioned

All of that while balancing family life and running a small business. Note that the 4runner will be in CA for the real fabrication, starting in August.

So, if you're just looking at pictures, I think you may not be seeing the full story of what all has gone into this build thus far.

Lastly, as a shameless plug, if you want to help this build to keep up momentum with happy sponsors, please follow it on IG and FB and tell your friends. We need more followers - which will come from word of mouth from forum members like you and with momentum once the "sexy" fabrication side of the build really takes off. Social media is today's sponsorship currency, period!

And please PM me with any ideas or contacts you may have for Tire Sponsorship!
 
Are you doing any fab work yourself or is it getting shipped to CA and all being done at once?

I'm only doing minor stuff here in AL: Engine mods, tuning/gauges, fuel system, body work, fiberglass fenders, seats, bumpers/sliders/skids, winch, safety, and navigation. Then I drive it to CA, so there's a limit and specific sequencing on what I can actually do and when.

The major stuff will be done in CA: F/R Suspension fab, coils/coilovers/shocks, steering, sway bars, F/R axles and Front RCVs, transfer case, driveshafts, roll cage, wheels/tires, and vehicle wrap. Suspension/Drivetrain fab work will be done by BigMike at Marlin Crawler and Wyatt Scott RockSolidToys. Others will be announced.
 
I'm only doing minor stuff here in AL: Engine mods, tuning/gauges, fuel system, body work, fiberglass fenders, seats, bumpers/sliders/skids, winch, safety, and navigation. Then I drive it to CA, so there's a limit and specific sequencing on what I can actually do and when.

The major stuff will be done in CA: F/R Suspension fab, coils/coilovers/shocks, steering, sway bars, F/R axles and Front RCVs, transfer case, driveshafts, roll cage, wheels/tires, and vehicle wrap. Suspension/Drivetrain fab work will be done by BigMike at Marlin Crawler and Wyatt Scott RockSolidToys. Others will be announced.

After that is it staying in CA or getting shipped back to you for tuning and testing?
 
After that is it staying in CA or getting shipped back to you for tuning and testing?

It’ll stay in CA till the race is over. We’ll do Cage then Wrap at the end. Then we’re off to JV for ON SITE shock tuning and testing. And we have a pro driver who is going to “immerse” us in all things KOH and The Hammers. I’ll be flying to CA as needed in Sept, Oct, Nov, Dec, and Jan. And of course KOH in Feb.

Most Tuning and Testing will take place beginning around Thanksgiving is my best guess.
 

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