swimmerdude1127's build thread

swimmerdude1127 said:
Haha that's why I said I cleaned it up! That's not the final shot. They're looking pretty good. I'm actually contemplating using some kind of non-permanent adhesive to fit the switch brackets very flush in their mounting locations. Any suggestions?


Thanks for the compliment. I'm wondering how it would do if I tried adding some solder to the connection points to give them a little height?
Click to expand...

I would just try a new bulb...

I'm confused about what you mean about the switch brackets?? Are they loose or are you looking to make them lower profile?
 
Antman said:
I would just try a new bulb...

I'm confused about what you mean about the switch brackets?? Are they loose or are you looking to make them lower profile?
Click to expand...

They're tight enough to stay in but because of the curvature of the dash they don't stay flush. In some spots the flange sticks up about 1/16".

I can't try a new bulb exactly because the "bulb" is a fitting from VLED that goes to the ballast for the V3 Tritons. I'll try calling them and see if they can get me out a new "bulb" tomorrow.
 
swimmerdude1127 said:
I can't try a new bulb exactly because the "bulb" is a fitting from VLED that goes to the ballast for the V3 Tritons. I'll try calling them and see if they can get me out a new "bulb" tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Interested to see if this fixes anything. I installed the v3 triton switchbacks last week and have the same experience. I just figured it was the relay trying to figure out whether or not to be in amber or white mode. It's annoying but I've mostly gotten used to it.
 
4ShoreRunner said:
Interested to see if this fixes anything. I installed the v3 triton switchbacks last week and have the same experience. I just figured it was the relay trying to figure out whether or not to be in amber or white mode. It's annoying but I've mostly gotten used to it.
Click to expand...

Nice! We're in this together!

I'm going to try using needle nose pliers to slightly bend up the connectors inside the Hella housing (keep in mind I have the Shrockworks bumper) and/or add some solder to make them taller. Obviously if I'm getting a good connection 70% of the time it's gotta be damn close. The driver side has been fine.
 
swimmerdude1127 said:
Nice! We're in this together!

I'm going to try using needle nose pliers to slightly bend up the connectors inside the Hella housing (keep in mind I have the Shrockworks bumper) and/or add some solder to make them taller. Obviously if I'm getting a good connection 70% of the time it's gotta be damn close. The driver side has been fine.
Click to expand...

Hmm... I just realized it was only one side for you. I need to double check but I think it happens on both sides for me.

Hopefully we can find a fix!
 
20" amber spot on the top hoop tubing. Never enough lights.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    130.8 KB · Views: 787
Went out with a buddy who has 35's on his Taco. Was surprised how much difference just slightly bigger tires made, even though he doesn't have lockers. I know on the taco forum there are guys who cut outer fenders on the body up to do 35's on a 3" lift.

Would something like that even be possible with our trucks?
 
Been gone for way too long! Soon to come is the CBI rear bumper install and the Pelfreybilt battery cage install.

In my haste I painted the battery cage red. Then I realized it's stainless so it didn't need to be painted at all. Oh well, red will give it some contrast under the hood.
 
Had a "duh" moment just now... I got another SCS-6 to go with a full size spare to mount on my soon-to-be-installed CBI rear.

So my question for all those guys running a full size spare, I assume you're doing a 5-tire rotation pattern. So what do you do for the odd one out as far as TPMS goes?
 
swimmerdude1127 said:
Had a "duh" moment just now... I got another SCS-6 to go with a full size spare to mount on my soon-to-be-installed CBI rear.

So my question for all those guys running a full size spare, I assume you're doing a 5-tire rotation pattern. So what do you do for the odd one out as far as TPMS goes?
Click to expand...

I don't do a 5 tire rotation myself. It really doesn't end up saving money since you have to purchase 5 tires every time (yes, longer between purchases, but you purchase 5 instead of 4 tires). I did end up swapping my spare in though as I slightly bent a rim when aired down really low in deep snow. Hit a big rock I couldn't see when I was driving fast. Oops. I just live with the light on. With oversized muds, it isn't really all that informative anyway.
 
swimmerdude1127 said:
So my question for all those guys running a full size spare, I assume you're doing a 5-tire rotation pattern. So what do you do for the odd one out as far as TPMS goes?
Click to expand...

I have been rotating 5 tires for years. My theory is the spare actually gets used rather than be a brand new spare that never gets used and withers away by the time you end up using it. Plus if you decide to go bigger or different brand on the next set you've used all 5 instead of having 1 tire you have to get rid of or that ends up different than the rest. I also removed my TPS sensors and live with the light on all of the time. They are made out metal that does not bend up against rocks and had one sheared off while wheeling. I wasn't able to fill it up with air and it caused a leak and the bead came off the rim, so now I always use cheap rubber ones.

I take the spare and put it on the rear passenger, rear passenger to front passenger, front passenger to rear driver, rear driver to front driver and the front driver goes to spare.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 381 (members: 2, guests: 379)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,075
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top