Tailgate rust...how much to fix?
- Thread starter DEF4Runner
- Start date
Bluesky 07
Senior Member
Started digging in to my tailgate rust bubbles and in the immortal words of Top Gun’s Iceman, “This is not good, this is not good!”
For anyone not familiar with the issue, this is the inside of the hatch. The factory rattle dampener/sound deadener is stuck to the metal there. In perhaps their best impression ever of GM in the ‘80s, Toyota apparently applied the material before painting or treating the surface, so when the inevitable water shows up by leaking past the rear window weatherstripping, some gets trapped under the deadener and this happens.
It’s insidious b/c the material looks fine to a casual inspection, but the problem eventually manifests itself as rust bubbles on the hatch and when you scrape away the deadener, this is what you find. Clearly should have been a TSB (I’m assuming there wasn’t?) w/ repairs at Toyota’s expense.
Full writeup w/ pics once I get things back in order.
For anyone not familiar with the issue, this is the inside of the hatch. The factory rattle dampener/sound deadener is stuck to the metal there. In perhaps their best impression ever of GM in the ‘80s, Toyota apparently applied the material before painting or treating the surface, so when the inevitable water shows up by leaking past the rear window weatherstripping, some gets trapped under the deadener and this happens.
It’s insidious b/c the material looks fine to a casual inspection, but the problem eventually manifests itself as rust bubbles on the hatch and when you scrape away the deadener, this is what you find. Clearly should have been a TSB (I’m assuming there wasn’t?) w/ repairs at Toyota’s expense.
Full writeup w/ pics once I get things back in order.
Bluesky 07
Senior Member
Here’s the full extent:
I assume that if other parts of that surface haven’t rusted by now, they probably won’t. My plan is to grind off the rust I can, paint that area with rust reformer and then it and as much of the inside of the hatch as possible with primer. Then I will cover that area with PlastiDip as an extra seal (considered undercoating but prefer PD as it’s removeable).
Finishing the internal repairs today and have decided to monitor the outer surface bubbles but leave fixing them for another time.
I assume that if other parts of that surface haven’t rusted by now, they probably won’t. My plan is to grind off the rust I can, paint that area with rust reformer and then it and as much of the inside of the hatch as possible with primer. Then I will cover that area with PlastiDip as an extra seal (considered undercoating but prefer PD as it’s removeable).
Finishing the internal repairs today and have decided to monitor the outer surface bubbles but leave fixing them for another time.
Bluesky 07
Senior Member
That’s good advice but fixing wins big on cost. Actually, “fixing” isn’t the right word, my goal is preventing further damage for the foreseeable future.
I feel like if it’s just surface rust, then wire wheeling to bare metal, topcoating with something like Eastwood, then following up with a rust preventive coat to repel water would be enough.
If it gets to the point of making a hole that’s another story. The rust pattern on some pics makes it look like the adhesive failed in the middle and let water seep under.
I checked my deadener pad once and didn’t find anything on a prelim scraping and put Corrosion X HD over the top of it; but this makes me want to go back and scrape the whole damn thing off.
It’s so damn solidified though. I guess a wide spackle spatula or something will do the trick?
If it gets to the point of making a hole that’s another story. The rust pattern on some pics makes it look like the adhesive failed in the middle and let water seep under.
I checked my deadener pad once and didn’t find anything on a prelim scraping and put Corrosion X HD over the top of it; but this makes me want to go back and scrape the whole damn thing off.
It’s so damn solidified though. I guess a wide spackle spatula or something will do the trick?
Bluesky 07
Senior Member
The factory material is very difficult to remove unless there’s rust under it, in which case it flakes right off. So that’s a good test. I used a metal putty knife and tapped with a hammer in the tougher spots. Be sure you get all the pieces, flakes, & dust out of the bottom of the tailgate lest it block the drain holes. I used my hands to get the large pieces, then a ShopVac followed up by compressed air.
Bluesky 07
Senior Member
Finished up the tailgate & feel confident I met the goal of preventing further rust damage for the foreseeable future (fingers crossed). Notes & pics:
The factory material is very difficult to remove unless there’s rust under it, in which case mine flaked right off. So that’s a good test. I used a metal putty knife to remove it and tapped the bottom of the scraper handle with a hammer to get the tougher spots. As noted in my previous post, be sure you get all the pieces, flakes, & dust out of the bottom of the tailgate lest it block the drain holes. I used my hands to get the large pieces like the one below, then a ShopVac followed up by compressed air.
Front (visible when looking into the tailgate)
Underside
Dust & particles collect at the bottom. This is after most had been removed. Get as much of it as you can.
I scraped, grinded, & wire brushed the rust until nothing else was coming off then painted with rust reformer.
I wanted secondary corrosion protection besides the Rust Reformer paint. Considered undercoating & PlastiDip but ultimately chose Fluid Film:
Decided to do my sound deadening while the hatch was disassembled. I reinstalled the plastic factory vapor barrier and covered it with a foam board piece that I waterproofed with Flex Seal.
Attached it with metal HVAC tape but forgot to get a pic of it installed.
Final step was adding Noico Green to the inside of the hatch trim. Haven’t gone anywhere yet so no report on whether it’s quieter now.
The factory material is very difficult to remove unless there’s rust under it, in which case mine flaked right off. So that’s a good test. I used a metal putty knife to remove it and tapped the bottom of the scraper handle with a hammer to get the tougher spots. As noted in my previous post, be sure you get all the pieces, flakes, & dust out of the bottom of the tailgate lest it block the drain holes. I used my hands to get the large pieces like the one below, then a ShopVac followed up by compressed air.
Front (visible when looking into the tailgate)
Underside
Dust & particles collect at the bottom. This is after most had been removed. Get as much of it as you can.
I scraped, grinded, & wire brushed the rust until nothing else was coming off then painted with rust reformer.
I wanted secondary corrosion protection besides the Rust Reformer paint. Considered undercoating & PlastiDip but ultimately chose Fluid Film:
Decided to do my sound deadening while the hatch was disassembled. I reinstalled the plastic factory vapor barrier and covered it with a foam board piece that I waterproofed with Flex Seal.
Attached it with metal HVAC tape but forgot to get a pic of it installed.
Final step was adding Noico Green to the inside of the hatch trim. Haven’t gone anywhere yet so no report on whether it’s quieter now.
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jsmith21
New member
So I’ve known I’ve had this problem for a while now, decided to look into it today and here’s what I found. Sucks; this is the only rust on my whole truck. I have a spare liftgate that needs to be painted, but was curious if the original could be saved. I’m gonna say no.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Bluesky 07
Senior Member
That's a shame, as is the fact that Toyota's process for the tailgate was so obviously and critically flawed. Every vehicle has its issues but this one's a jaw-dropper.
jsmith21
New member
Man I know. It pisses me off, but Toyota isn’t going to do anything for an 11 year old vehicle so I guess it is what it is. It still really pisses me off though. Wonder if they did the same thing with the 5th gen?
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yotafool
New member
Just had my liftgate rust inspected while my 07 sport was in the body shop getting some body damage to the rear driver’s side quarter panel fixed and painted. The shop thought they could fix it for $1,000 originally before in depth inspection. After really investigating area the shop called me and will not even attempt to fix. Quoted me $2,100 for new lift gate shell painted... Wondering if there’s some way I could grind down, weld on new strip of steel on outside over length of liftgate (to beef up compromised shell) prime, and have bottom portion of liftgate linex’d?
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i had to redo some rust-work towards the bottom edge of my hatch recently. i sanded it thoroughly, used white (color of my truck) rust paint over 'bare' metal x3 coats, then x3 krylon fusion clear, stuffed a hole on inside of this area on bottom of hatch with stickybumps original scent surf wax, turtle waxed the entire area. well see how it holds up. id buy a junked hatch or entire hatch before spending thousands to repair whats going on with mine. i replaced hatch motor and luckily i didnt have major rust all in there behind the moisture seal, just the bottom of my hatch.
Gonna spend some money on this.
Replacing the panel with Toyota OEM piece.
New seal.
Expensive.
~ $3600
Rest of the vehicle is very good
94K on a 2007 SR5 model
Frame is especially good.
I'm third owner.
Bought last October.
Walkaround of vehicle at time of drop-off
https://youtu.be/InpuXvs9__4
Replacing the panel with Toyota OEM piece.
New seal.
Expensive.
~ $3600
Rest of the vehicle is very good
94K on a 2007 SR5 model
Frame is especially good.
I'm third owner.
Bought last October.
Walkaround of vehicle at time of drop-off
https://youtu.be/InpuXvs9__4
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Last edited:
Jakeepoo3
New member
Well do you have a welder? At least that area is flat and no contour. Just a crease and bend. I would never pay that much for anything. You can buy all the equipment and consumables yourself for less than the shop quote. If you like to diy and learn new skills and sh1t.
