Teotwaki's 2018 TRD Off Road Premium Build Thread

Would love to see more pictures and details on your second battery setup. What battery are you using for your house battery? and how did you come to chose it?

I purchased the same CTEK unit as you did but they sent me the new updated D250SA version (i'm not complaining). I'm piecing together my dual battery parts and looking for inspiration from others who have done it.

I had to go look up what was different about the "SA" model and it has to do with the "smart" alternators in newer vehicles.

Smart alternators are essentially those that have their output voltage controlled externally via the Engine Control Unit (ECU) rather than by an internal voltage regulator as found on traditional alternators.

When an alternator is running and producing a charging voltage the electromagnetic field generated inside it produces a mechanical load on the engine via the alternator drive belt. This load increases as the output voltage rises, meaning that the engine has to work harder to turn the alternator which consumes more fuel in the process. Traditional alternators maintain their voltage between 13.8-14.4V depending on the state of charge of the battery and various other factors. This means that there is always a significant load on the engine from the alternator which requires fuel to be consumed.

As smart alternators are ECU-controlled it enables manufacturers to vary the voltage output more than can be achieved with an internal regulator. This provides the opportunity to bring the voltage below 13.8V during periods when no further charging is required (e.g. when the battery is nearly full) meaning that engine loads are reduced, fuel consumption is reduced and emissions are lowered, all helping manufacturers to comply with industry environmental regulations.


For an "overlander" it would be cool to have at least a nominal capacity solar panel on the vehicle that was always plugged into the 250SA if the vehicle had a smart alternator.

For my 5th gen battery choices I have to say I've grown tired of the shortcomings of the expensive high end Odyssey and Optima brands. After 2009 (IIRC) Optima went to production in Mexico and quality sucked. There is some guy called Optima Jim who has the main purpose of trying to counter that bad news wherever it is posted on the forums. I personally have gone through a lot of Optima AGMs under the hood of my 4th Gen and that was one reason I chose the CTEK. Regardless of what voltage the alternator happens to be supplying the CTEK's DC-DC converter will output the right voltage to fully maintain the second battery. It is also great that it has the solar charger built in. Just watch out that you never ever exceed the CTEK voltage input limits. A normal car alternator is just not built to provide the charging profile those two brands need as the alternator is designed to charge a normal lead acid starter battery.

It just so happens that I have a pre-Mexico pair of Optima Blue tops that are still doing very well and I have a Sears Diehard Platinum (Odyssey PC-1500) that also looks to be doing well.

The PC-1500 type battery really likes a voltage that is higher than what a standard battery needs so I have had to pull it out every so often, discharge it to 10-ish volts and then hit it with a high current charge to recondition it

Initially I will give one of those a trial but my opinion is that money wise buying a CostCo marine battery and replacing it every one to two years could be cheaper.
 
Hi Jim, great info - especially for a newb like me. I'll start reading your blog next. I'm looking forward to exploring more of this great desert in our backyard as well as the rest of this and our other great States in my new rig.
 
Hi Jim, great info - especially for a newb like me. I'll start reading your blog next. I'm looking forward to exploring more of this great desert in our backyard as well as the rest of this and our other great States in my new rig.

Thanks and Hi to another California guy! :hello:

Be sure to explore the San Juan Mountains in Colorado, the Moab area in Utah and the desert in and around Death Valley.
 
Thanks! I did not see install pix in your build thread unless I missed them? I have a really nice stainless steel battery tray from my 4th gen but no matter how I examine it I still have to modify it quite a bit. I may sell it and buy the OffGrid tray even though they ask for a king's ransom. It does make for a simple install.

Nope, you didn't miss anything. I haven't finished the wiring yet so I haven't written anything up yet. But yes it is extremely easy install.
 
Early Tuesday I ordered the OffGrid battery tray after talking to Matt on the phone. He said he had one in stock and could rush ship it for me. Unfortunately the box did not get into the hands of the Post Office until today. That means no progress until next weekend. :moping:


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Completed a couple of small projects today. I fabbed a front license plate holder that is down below the bumper. Keeps the LEOs happy but I avoided drilling holes in my nice n' new front bumper. I also installed my aftermarket end links for the rear swaybar.

Here is a comparison shot -
IMG_5681-1.JPG

Nice build. Who makes these links?
 
Man, giving my business to offgrid was a huge mistake. If I wanted super late delivery (without the nasty emails) I could have saved a bunch of money and ordered from any of the many competitors. Matt's true colors came out when I emailed about the late delivery. :eek:

C4Fab looks really good. I wonder if it fits a 2018?
2014-4Runner-Spare-Battery-Tray-C4-Fabrication-3.jpg


I should probably sell the offgrid bracket at cost or maybe weld over the logo on the battery clamp before any install occurs.
 
Man, giving my business to offgrid was a huge mistake. If I wanted super late delivery (without the nasty emails) I could have saved a bunch of money and ordered from any of the many competitors. Matt's true colors came out when I emailed about the late delivery. :eek:

C4Fab looks really good. I wonder if it fits a 2018?


I should probably sell the offgrid bracket at cost or maybe weld over the logo on the battery clamp before any install occurs.

Sorry for steering you that way! I actually received my product quickly and had a great experience but had I known about this I wouldn't have sent you that way. Sorry Jim
 
Sorry for steering you that way! I actually received my product quickly and had a great experience but had I known about this I wouldn't have sent you that way. Sorry Jim


Don't apologize! Genuine customer service can handle complaints better than praise because it's about more than separating a customer from a couple of hundred bucks for a quick sale.
 
The offgrid aluminum battery bracket will end up being a simple mounting platform for my stainless steel bracket that has a far better layout for holding a battery. If for some reason the offgrid battery clamp ever comes loose the battery can slide towards the engine and short a battery terminal to ground. Therefore make sure the battery's positive terminal is the one towards the engine. My stainless steel bracket has tabs that limit lateral battery movement even if the clamp were to ever come loose. Much better design.

I ran a test fit of the aluminum bracket and found it is not great fit in my 2018. The bracket appears to have overly long slotted holes in two spots to try allow for variations across the 4Runner years. This creates a need for oversized washers to go under the button head bolts and take up all that slop.

The elaborate baseplate standoff mount (hollow tube with 4 Allen head screws) is a problem area for fitment as it aligns poorly. The stock Toyota flanged nut will not fit. Hopefully I can find a metric washer with a very slim profile that I can get down in there as I don't want the baseplate to have any vertical movement. I'll probably go with a stainless steel Nyloc nut.
 

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Great progress today on the final bracket setup using the modified stainless steel bracket from my 4th Gen and that aluminum bracket I recently bought.

The Optima was for a test fit as I've not decided which battery I will drop in. The Blue top is pre-Mexico production and is 9 years old but doing well.
 

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Hey how do you like the radflo’s on the 5th gen? I’m think about getting their stage 2 set up with the total chaos UCA from metal tech 4x4. Are you running their 2” in rear lift springs as well with the 2.0” or 2.5” rear shocks?? Thanks!
 
Hey how do you like the radflo’s on the 5th gen? I’m think about getting their stage 2 set up with the total chaos UCA from metal tech 4x4. Are you running their 2” in rear lift springs as well with the 2.0” or 2.5” rear shocks?? Thanks!

Love the Radflos! My rear shocks are 2.5" and the rear springs were custom through Overland Warehouse and set up to handle towing my trailer. OW has since gone out of business.
 
Toyota outlet panel modified by me. For handling the Engel fridge and two way radio in the cargo area that will be connected to the second battery. I may add a switch to turn off the volt meter.
 

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Made a bunch of progress over the last couple of weeks

Second battery bracket installed:
IMG_5793-1.jpg


The battery is actually an Odyssey PC1500 that was private labeled for Sears as a DieHard Platinum. Almost 5 years old and seems to be doing well.
IMG_5812-1.jpg


This battery will be used for the fridge and the two way radios. It is maintained by a CTEK 250S Dual. (I recently upgraded to the "SA" version).
IMG_5797-1.jpg


Yup. Tearing apart a new car. Craziness! :bigok:
IMG_5800-1.jpg


Here is the Toyota AC Power Outlet Panel modified for a LED readout DC Voltmeter, dual Anderson PowerPole outlet and high quality cig lighter socket. The meter pulls less than 0.009 Amps so I just leave it on all the time.
IMG_5811-1.jpg


Radio is installed and plugged into the PowerPole outlet. I also modified the Engel Fridge power cord to use an Anderson PowerPole.
IMG_5810-1.jpg


Mojave Desert test drive :dancin:
IMG_5814-1.jpg
 

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