The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[MTD]

So guys you know I had my knock sensor problems in sacrament elevation just about sea level. Well my knock sensors were not bad just going off all the time, and going off so often it would put the truck into limp mode.

Well again in Kansas it happened so I threw some 104 octane booster in it and basically I don't get the code any more. At 1200 ft there is so much dense air going into the motor it's causing me to knock right around 2k rpm unless I run $10 booster every gas tank.

I am also running 7 psi part throttle and 8-9 full throttle. It's crazy! So really I need to go down a smaller pulley while I'm in lower elevations, change my timing retard on the 7th and or do a water meth to help cool temps.

Also with my 170 thermo I'm still seeing temps in the 200 during large hills. I can only imagine what my EGT are spiking to. Yikes!

So wait you are going to a SMALLER pulley at a lower elevation? That makes no sense the air is denser as you loose elevation. My guess is that you are out of your tuned section of your map because the PSIa of KC is about 14.6. you may need to retune if you are staying there a while. I can help ya laborday weekend I will be in Lawarance visting my GF.

 

[J. B.]

So guys you know I had my knock sensor problems in sacrament elevation just about sea level. Well my knock sensors were not bad just going off all the time, and going off so often it would put the truck into limp mode.

Well again in Kansas it happened so I threw some 104 octane booster in it and basically I don't get the code any more. At 1200 ft there is so much dense air going into the motor it's causing me to knock right around 2k rpm unless I run $10 booster every gas tank.

I am also running 7 psi part throttle and 8-9 full throttle. It's crazy! So really I need to go down a smaller pulley while I'm in lower elevations, change my timing retard on the 7th and or do a water meth to help cool temps.

Also with my 170 thermo I'm still seeing temps in the 200 during large hills. I can only imagine what my EGT are spiking to. Yikes!

P0330 is a fault with the knock sensor circuit. Not necessarily the knock sensor itself. Typically you have to replace the knock sensor wiring harness. ~$30 part, but have to pull the whole intake off to get to it since it's in the engine valley.

edit: once you're finished with that... log your AFR through the rpm range at part load and full load. If they are off, time for a better tune.

 

[shootmymime]

So wait you are going to a SMALLER pulley at a lower elevation? That makes no sense the air is denser as you loose elevation. My guess is that you are out of your tuned section of your map because the PSIa of KC is about 14.6. you may need to retune if you are staying there a while. I can help ya laborday weekend I will be in Lawarance visting my GF.

Yeah yeah yeah I meant larger pulley.
It may be nice to meet you man!

P0330 is a fault with the knock sensor circuit. Not necessarily the knock sensor itself. Typically you have to replace the knock sensor wiring harness. ~$30 part, but have to pull the whole intake off to get to it since it's in the engine valley.

edit: once you're finished with that... log your AFR through the rpm range at part load and full load. If they are off, time for a better tune.

Yeah I replaced them both. Still getting the code. Around 2k. ARF look great. But when I'm that low rpm I'm still doing like 7 psi boost and it's not able to keep spark knock down.

 

[MTD]

Yeah yeah yeah I meant larger pulley.
It may be nice to meet you man!

It'd be nice to prove that I am not just an interwebz troll

 

[slimboiphat]

where do you guys recommend ordering a brand new s/c now that they are considered discontinued? And what would be the expected price range for the s/c and the installation kit?

 

[MTD]

where do you guys recommend ordering a brand new s/c now that they are considered discontinued? And what would be the expected price range for the s/c and the installation kit?

ebay, but there arn't any on there and they are steadily going up in price...

 

[J. B.]

Yeah I replaced them both. Still getting the code. Around 2k. ARF look great. But when I'm that low rpm I'm still doing like 7 psi boost and it's not able to keep spark knock down.

You replaced both knock sensors or the wire harness?
You need to replace the wire harness

 

[zacattack20]

I am having an issue now that I installed URD's 7th injector. All my wiring is correct per the wiring that was given with the kit. I have three left over wires that aren't mentioned on the instructions. White, White/Green, and Orange.


<img src="http://i1350.photobucket.com/albums/p779/zacforsale/D706D0A9-F734-4A0A-AEA8-A71B317552E9_zpsicd5wfhr.jpg" border="0" height="800">


But now I am getting codes for the O2 sensor and not just pending, they will become stored. The sensors are less than a month old and are denso brand so they aren't the problem.

The wiring instructions say pink/blue into the white wire into the ECU and pink into the white wire to the sensor.

Anyone with a '98 have any issues or see something that isn't right on the wiring instructions? I emailed URD and Gadget just told me to check my wiring. I have double checked it and he didn't email me back today.

Well I got an email back from him saying to try the green and green/white wires to the O2 sensor wire instead of the pink ones. It has seemed to have fixed the issue. Since my instructions mention no use of the white wires can anyone tell me what those are for?

 

[SCRunner12]

where do you guys recommend ordering a brand new s/c now that they are considered discontinued? And what would be the expected price range for the s/c and the installation kit?

Try the dealership, they are supposed to have some in stock. They should be able to track one down for you.

 

[maverickhawk]

where do you guys recommend ordering a brand new s/c now that they are considered discontinued? And what would be the expected price range for the s/c and the installation kit?

Wow, hard to believe it's been two months since I ordered mine. I was going to wait a year or two before I got one, but I freaked out when the email to the dealerships went out. So I sucked it up and started my search.
I started by calling my hometown dealership, they got the email but didn't care because they had only installed two in the last eight years so I called all the Kansas City dealerships. They didn't care unless I wanted to order one even though it would be on back order. I tried St Louis, Denver, Dallas, no luck, no leads. Then for some reason I talked to parts manager in Denton Texas. This guy was really nice, and the first to be truly helpful. He said he could look on the computer and see all the ones on back order all over the US, nearly twenty. However he told me of five that were in stock and which dealerships had them.
I suppose it's who you talk to but I'll bet there are a few out there. There has to be if each dealership was allowed to order five during June.
Be careful when you find one. You will become addicted to more mods with it.
If you can turn a wrench, you can install it yourself.

 

[shootmymime]

You replaced both knock sensors or the wire harness?

You need to replace the wire harness

Bank 2 ks and harness

 

[Itz_magic]

Soo did i catch ping on video ? https://vimeo.com/136310362

 

[Itz_magic]

Or is it the belt slipping

 

[SCRunner12]

where do you guys recommend ordering a brand new s/c now that they are considered discontinued? And what would be the expected price range for the s/c and the installation kit?

Might want to check out this one [MENTION=55309]slimboiphat[/MENTION]
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-t4r-items/203800-fs-2nd-gen-s-c-more-va-beach-va-2k-obo.html

 

[masphx]

I opened up my used Supercharger to reseal it. I decided to inspect it and found that some of the coating has flaked off...




Should I...
-Run it as is
-strip the coating off (what should I use?)
-Re-recoat

I overland this 4Runner so reliability trumps boost performance. I'm leaning towards stripping the coating so it does not get sucked into the engine.

Also, some inside pics of the housing...

 

[slimboiphat]

Might want to check out this one [MENTION=55309]slimboiphat[/MENTION]
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-t4r-items/203800-fs-2nd-gen-s-c-more-va-beach-va-2k-obo.html

thanks for the look out.:thumb:

 

[gamefreakgc]

I'm no expert with superchargers by any means, but that housing and the rotors look a little beat up. I would suspect the bearings, by looking at the scour marks on the back it looks like the rotors have a bit of play.

I don't think just stripping the coating would be a good idea, since it's kind of a non-stick surface that keeps them clean. But I have no idea how to re-coat them with something that will withstand the high RPM's the charger sees. I think a performance shop might be able to point you in the right direction if you bring it in, or a machine shop that has experience with superchargers.

 

[MTD]

I can't see the pictures here at work, but from what Jerod is describing I would deffinately send it in to be rebuilt and recoated, especially if it is scoreing the side of the blower. If you want it to be reliable you either need to get it rebuilt or not install it.. the coating going into the motor is the least of your problems, you don't want a bearing to self descruct in the middle of nowhere.

Here is who I would reccomend to rebuild it:

Stiegemeier Porting Service

 

[MTD]

Soo did i catch ping on video ? https://vimeo.com/136310362

Sound quality is not good enough to hear ping, but that screech after the first pull may have been the belt if that is the noise you are worried about.

 

[Itz_magic]

Sound quality is not good enough to hear ping, but that screech after the first pull may have been the belt if that is the noise you are worried about.

That was the sound i was worried about