The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

So I have a quick question that id like some honest opinions about I recently bought a 96 Trd runner supercharged and what not its running great other than a check engine light due to knock sensor which I will be fixing tomorrow. The engine is original with 267k miles and I am wondering if that's too many miles to expect it to make a long trip of 400 miles and 7 hours I am moving and would like to take it with me but I definatly don't want to end up on the side of the road broken down, I understand everyone says these 3.4s are bullet proof but I need a little more confirmation on if any of you would do something like that, and if so what precautions would u take thanks!

First off, good choice of team allegiances. But what are you doing in New Mexico???

Second, the fluids will clue you in here. Check all fluids for contamination or neglect. If any are bad, replace before your trip.

Third, if you don't floor it, driving a supercharged 4Runner is almost exactly like a N/A one. There's really no difference on how it drives unless you give it a lot of gas.

P.S. for those with the noise issues, mine rattled like that too. New nose cone took care of it but I bought a complete nose cone, not just the rebuild kits. No noise anymore for me. There's something to be said for the simplicity of it, even if it is $200.
 
First off, good choice of team allegiances. But what are you doing in New Mexico???



Second, the fluids will clue you in here. Check all fluids for contamination or neglect. If any are bad, replace before your trip.



Third, if you don't floor it, driving a supercharged 4Runner is almost exactly like a N/A one. There's really no difference on how it drives unless you give it a lot of gas.



P.S. for those with the noise issues, mine rattled like that too. New nose cone took care of it but I bought a complete nose cone, not just the rebuild kits. No noise anymore for me. There's something to be said for the simplicity of it, even if it is $200.


Actually working on getting out of New Mexico haha hence the post, thanks for the input I was planning on doing a full tune up before I left including t belt do you think I should take the trip slow and make engine brake stops along the way or just take the full shot all at once?
 
Actually working on getting out of New Mexico haha hence the post, thanks for the input I was planning on doing a full tune up before I left including t belt do you think I should take the trip slow and make engine brake stops along the way or just take the full shot all at once?

As long as the motor is running in the right temp range I see no reason to make stops to let it cool off. Do you have a transmission temp gauge? That is another vital piece of information to have.
 
Actually working on getting out of New Mexico haha hence the post, thanks for the input I was planning on doing a full tune up before I left including t belt do you think I should take the trip slow and make engine brake stops along the way or just take the full shot all at once?

If you're doing all that then you should be fine.

Word of experience: don't do any major engine work without at least a week or two of driving until a major trip. If you mess something up that takes a few days to pop up (CEL) you'll be killing yourself if you're somewhere in the middle of the Mojave desert when it does go bad.

I tend to mess up at least one thing every time I open up the engine so I give myself a little time for fixing the small things.
 
Sorry for the random question but I am in the process of removing my supercharger and there is a hex bolt that is pretty much impossible to get to it's the middle one, how the heck do people get this off I read through about 5 whole threads and posts can anyone help here.
 
Sorry for the random question but I am in the process of removing my supercharger and there is a hex bolt that is pretty much impossible to get to it's the middle one, how the heck do people get this off I read through about 5 whole threads and posts can anyone help here.

I just happened to have the right length of socket and a narrow wrench... not much else to it really. If it's stuck try some penetrating oil first.
 
Hmmm I can't see how any type of tool would even fit in there.....did you remove the throttle body? [MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION]
 
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Hmmm I can't see how any type of tool would even fit in there.....did you remove the throttle body? [MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION]
Yes the throttle body has to come off. Go to the op of this thread and snag the install instructions and do them in reverse.
 
Not really a meth kit install write up

As the title states, this isn't really a write up as the instructions are pretty straight forward and relatively easy. The purpose is just to share my experiences with the Devils own kit, and offer those that are going down the same path some install hints and options.
First some install pics:
 

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I used the factory washer fluid bottle as you can use the water meth as washer fluid... less work, and save space in the engine bay. The supplied self sealing tank tap and low level float switch work really well, and are so easy to install. The only gaff I had on the whole install is that the float switch is too long for the location I installed it, so its not functioning. Wiring for the switch is easy... one to ground, one to the controller. Next I installed the pump on the air filter box. It doesn't inhibit removal or airflow, and was the logical place for me.
 

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Next, as you can see above, I ran the tubing from the pump to the oneway check valve. Then from the check valve I tee'd off and ran tubing to the first injector just before the TB, then to the EGR port on the SC. Basically I Couldn't tell which point would be most beneficial, so I installed at both locations. To install you drill and tap the location, then just screw in the NPT style injector. All of the hardware is very well designed, easy to use, and quality material.
 

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Reference previous photos.
Wiring the kit was straight forward, and the instructions do a fine job of explaining everything adequately. Basically, the pump's power connects to the battery (I added a hot battery bus/ constant power). The negative is connected to the controller. The controller itself has a constant power supply, ignition source, ground, signal (float switch), pump ground control, and boost line. I drilled an extra hole and grommet through the fire wall for the additional wiring. I tee'd the boost line off of the boost gauge supply line, so I wouldn't have to run a boost line through the fire wall again.

Results, opinion, and conclusion:

I added the meth kit as I was convinced I had knock after installing a smaller pulley (pulley boys 2.3") Although the noise proved to be just an annoying rattle, I have the benefit of now knowing that my engine has a level of protection against knock, and a bit more power. I've done a "ghetto tune" of basically watching my AFR's on the engine link app:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...rans-fluid-temp-other-things-your-iphone.html

I then adjusted the controller to spray when I needed it. The only times I seem to be lean are when I'm high boost low RPM high gear... highway partial throttle. So I have the controller progressively spray starting at higher boost levels. (I'm making a solid 10psi)

Limitations:
With this set up, you can't spray unless you are in boost... Which means, if you have knock outside of boost, this will not help you.
You also can't adjust your computer, or fine tune, as this does't have an ecu piggy back. You could add an additional ecu piggy back and still be cheaper than URD's kit.
Also, you need to have water/meth mix at your disposal... (Washer fluid, water, straight meth all work... You just have to have it with you on long trips).
Benefits:
Running higher boost with knock protection
I could theoretically run lower octane gas
more power, more boost!

Let me know if you guys have questions... all in all DO makes a great kit, and its pretty easy to install.
 
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