The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[4Reak Show]

Yeah gotta check the basic obviously. The video sounds like it's boosting (?) so perhaps the vacuum bypass valve is stuck to "on" (?). See if the lever moves and move the other way maybe.
Also, I had a main SC-to-intake bolt loose by a couple turns on accident when I did mine a long time ago. (Not the same symptoms but easily overlooked in the chaos). So go thru the intake bolts again and make sure it's all snug. Vacuum leak there would throw a wrench it in for sure.
Next guess would be a dirty IAC by how it sounds. Couple screws and you can rotate the guts with throttle body attached and feel for a sticky part. If it sticks, soak brake/throttle body cleaner in its ports and exercise the guts to clean it.
It's a Toyota so it's gotta be something simple. And if it ran fine BEFORE, then it's gotta be something you did.
Good luck.

 

[Bootboy]

That piece looks like the large washer that goes between the supercharger and the tall bracket on the driver's side cylinder head to me. Very easy to lose, I also dropped mine in the engine and it eventually fell out.



My money's on the vacuum hose routing is wrong. Double check all hoses to make sure they are connected and routed correctly, also make sure the MAF is plugged in correctly and the intake tube is on snug.

I don't think the piece is a washer, the hole doesn't go all the way through.

Unfortunately, the previous owner cobbled together some really shoddy vacuum line splices and created many possible places for leaks... Ugh.

I'll do all of the above mentioned procedures and get back to you.

 

[Bootboy]

IAC? Sorry but I'm drawing a blank...

I've checked and rechecked my vacuum lines. Still nothing. I'm to the point now that I'm thinking about pulling the SC again and reconnecting everything very deliberately.

Is there a chance that I over filled the SC oil and it's leaked into the SC out of the nose cone?

 

[4Reak Show]

Idle Air Control valve. It's what allows the engine to idle. If it sticks closed, no air is bypassing the throttle plate, and it will NOT hold an idle. Sometimes the vehicle's computer has compensated enough over time due to gunk build up. If you disconnected your battery the internal memory (and those compensations) will be forgotten and the computer will be trying to run on baseline defaults. But those are based on a brand new IAC.
Sooooo if you disconnected your battery during this particular series of repairs/maintenance, that would be the avenue I'd be walking down.... Cleaning that mother.
There's a bunch of write ups on how to clean the 3.4 IAC here on the forum. Pretty non intrusive compared to complete SC R&R....
Worth a search if you have the time.

Good luck

 

[Bootboy]

Found it!

To my embarrassment, when I put the throttle body on last week, the gasket slipped out and only got bolted on one corner. It pivoted off the lower rear bolt and swung nearly out of sight, leaving massive gaps on the back and bottom of the TB. I feel pretty sheepish.

I took the time to remove the throttle body and clean it well along with the IAC. Since the gasket got marred by being squished funny, I used just a smidgen of gasket maker to seal it up. Runs great now.

Unfortunately, the SC still rattles pretty bad at 6-800 RPMS. I've gotta get the bearings done, oil change and cleaning was insufficient.

Just relieved that it's running well.

Thanks for all you help guys.

 

[4Reak Show]

Glad you found it and glad it was simple!
...still a bummer about your noise though...
Have you posted a video of the noise for us by chance?

 

[Bootboy]

Glad you found it and glad it was simple!
...still a bummer about your noise though...
Have you posted a video of the noise for us by chance?

I don't have a video but if you look up trd super charger noise on you tube, the first 4 or 5 results are pretty representative. Here's one example:https://youtu.be/17GSC0cKq14

Sounds pretty classic. Hollow rattly sound at low rpm (650-800rpm, very narrow window.) that goes away with simply raising the rpms a little. Turning the AC on does the trick

 

[Bluecobra]

Looking at the different ways to tune the fuel and timing on a 1998 4runner. I like the AEM and feel it will do what they say it will. How about the URD product? Is it as good as the AEM? Only looking at it because the PnP harness is cheaper than the Boomslang.

Anywhere else to get a harness that is PnP for the AEM that doesn't cost quite as much?

 

[gamefreakgc]

Found it!

To my embarrassment, when I put the throttle body on last week, the gasket slipped out and only got bolted on one corner. It pivoted off the lower rear bolt and swung nearly out of sight, leaving massive gaps on the back and bottom of the TB. I feel pretty sheepish.


I took the time to remove the throttle body and clean it well along with the IAC. Since the gasket got marred by being squished funny, I used just a smidgen of gasket maker to seal it up. Runs great now.

Unfortunately, the SC still rattles pretty bad at 6-800 RPMS. I've gotta get the bearings done, oil change and cleaning was insufficient.

Just relieved that it's running well.

Thanks for all you help guys.

I put mine on upside down once. I still don't know how I managed to do that, it was late though so I might have already been checked-out mentally.

oil change unfortunately has a very small chance of fixing the rattle. Only new bearings but I think you already figured it out. If you can manage to find one cheap, the nose cone kits are by far the easiest way to go. Either than or sent it to a performance shop to be professionally rebuilt.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Looking at the different ways to tune the fuel and timing on a 1998 4runner. I like the AEM and feel it will do what they say it will. How about the URD product? Is it as good as the AEM? Only looking at it because the PnP harness is cheaper than the Boomslang.

Anywhere else to get a harness that is PnP for the AEM that doesn't cost quite as much?

AEM is ahead of almost every other performance/tuning product on the market. They have been making performance products for a long time and are very reliable.

 

[lkhunter]

I put mine on upside down once. I still don't know how I managed to do that, it was late though so I might have already been checked-out mentally.

oil change unfortunately has a very small chance of fixing the rattle. Only new bearings but I think you already figured it out. If you can manage to find one cheap, the nose cone kits are by far the easiest way to go. Either than or sent it to a performance shop to be professionally rebuilt.

Rollingperformance.Com

 

[gamefreakgc]

Rollingperformance.Com

Changing the front bearings without a shop press is a chore to say the least. Plus it's virtually impossible for a DIY'ers like us to remove the rear needle bearings.

A year or so ago I bought a Toyota nose cone kit off a member for $160. Took me only a couple of hours, and that was also cleaning up the engine and inspecting the rotors, etc.

 

[White Stripe]

no i do not have the o2 calibrator, not sure if it will work with mine because on 2000 its an afr sensor.

i dont have any ping unless im in super low rpm and heavy throttle just of the verge of the trans kickdown. but i have to try to initiate the ping.

i want this fixed because the highways out here are 80 mph and running that fast makes the intake temps rise quite a bit while going up a small hill (193 up to 205 at times,) in the heat of the summer they have been up to 215 before i turn on the heaters in the cab and drop the windows to try and dissipate some of the heat (using the heater core as a radiator)

I may end up selling this and going with a meth kit or MTD set up with larger injectors.

In the end, i just wish it would work properly, the way its designed to.

For some reason URD in their factory programming for the 7th injector programs it kinda funny. The 7th injector has the ability to force the factory ecm to open loop. But URD has the 7th injector programmed to not force open loop until 7psi. So that means that no matter how much fuel the 7th pushes into the intake, the ECM will pull back fuel from the factory 6 injectors to bring everything to 14.7:1. The factory ecm does go to open loop when you have it at wide open throttle, and you will at that point notice on a wideband that the engine is running nice and rich. But otherwise you will only get 14.7:1 until you hit 7psi. But you can go into the R4 software and change this setting to the minimum allowed setting which is 1.5psi or a little higher psi if you want. This will force open loop and keep the stock ecm from adapting back to 14.7:1. Easy peasy if you know about this.

 

[White Stripe]

Could use some help or more like advise. Started tearing down my supercharger when it sounded like the bearings might be toast. When I opened it found this...

I would assume its salvageable, but what do you think?

Those rotors and housing looks totally normal. Its supposed to look like that, leave the alone do not smooth it out. Put new bearings and seals in and you will be good to go.

 

[Bluecobra]

Ordered my AEM FIC-6, Boomslang harness and 440cc injectors today. Blower should be back from High Speed Labs next week and I can get it all put back together and begin the tuning process. Already rebuilt the snout and installed the 2.1 pulley.

Any advice on the tuning?

 

[4Reak Show]

For some reason URD in their factory programming for the 7th injector programs it kinda funny. The 7th injector has the ability to force the factory ecm to open loop. But URD has the 7th injector programmed to not force open loop until 7psi. So that means that no matter how much fuel the 7th pushes into the intake, the ECM will pull back fuel from the factory 6 injectors to bring everything to 14.7:1. The factory ecm does go to open loop when you have it at wide open throttle, and you will at that point notice on a wideband that the engine is running nice and rich. But otherwise you will only get 14.7:1 until you hit 7psi. But you can go into the R4 software and change this setting to the minimum allowed setting which is 1.5psi or a little higher psi if you want. This will force open loop and keep the stock ecm from adapting back to 14.7:1. Easy peasy if you know about this.

I talked to gadget awhile back, and although he initially tried to just sell me additional URD equipment, he did tell me that the 7th DOES do closed loop enrichment (I'm imagining that it's by lying to the main ECU proportionally opposite to the amount that it adds fuel via the 7th injector. Still not 100% on that particular aspect however.) he also told me about never going below the "1.5 PSI" in the settings, but I could have sworn that someone on this thread had said that gadget told him specially to go to 1 PSI (?).

I was thinking, and why wouldn't we want it to start adding fuel any time it's boosting? Why the 1.5 PSI as the minimum? Think about it: at WOT the absolute highest a NA engine can pull is 0 PSI (atmospheric). It's a philysical impossibly for it to create more pressure unless it's super/turbo charged. Therefore, shouldn't we want that magic 11.8:1 AFR at 0 psi and above?

I'm experimenting with this in my settings and I gotta say I like the results. My truck's pick-up is insane the minute I start boosting. I'm floating around low 11's/high 10's any time I'm hearing the supercharger whine and confirmed via the boost gauge hitting 0 psi and above. And I don't even drive it that hard. Talking like 1/2-3/4 throttle and it f*cking flies. And that includes additional timing retard in the low end for audible ping.

Does anyone else have any thoughts on this or the reasoning behind the 1.5 PSI situation? It just doesn't add up to me and the results seem to speak for themselves...richer is safer from what I'm learning so why not?

 

[MTD]

I talked to gadget awhile back, and although he initially tried to just sell me additional URD equipment, he did tell me that the 7th DOES do closed loop enrichment (I'm imagining that it's by lying to the main ECU proportionally opposite to the amount that it adds fuel via the 7th injector. Still not 100% on that particular aspect however.) he also told me about never going below the "1.5 PSI" in the settings, but I could have sworn that someone on this thread had said that gadget told him specially to go to 1 PSI (?).

I was thinking, and why wouldn't we want it to start adding fuel any time it's boosting? Why the 1.5 PSI as the minimum? Think about it: at WOT the absolute highest a NA engine can pull is 0 PSI (atmospheric). It's a philysical impossibly for it to create more pressure unless it's super/turbo charged. Therefore, shouldn't we want that magic 11.8:1 AFR at 0 psi and above?

I'm experimenting with this in my settings and I gotta say I like the results. My truck's pick-up is insane the minute I start boosting. I'm floating around low 11's/high 10's any time I'm hearing the supercharger whine and confirmed via the boost gauge hitting 0 psi and above. And I don't even drive it that hard. Talking like 1/2-3/4 throttle and it f*cking flies. And that includes additional timing retard in the low end for audible ping.

Does anyone else have any thoughts on this or the reasoning behind the 1.5 PSI situation? It just doesn't add up to me and the results seem to speak for themselves...richer is safer from what I'm learning so why not?

First off before anyone gets too confused what year is your truck?

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[4Reak Show]

Oh haha good call. The engine ECU is '99 Tacoma, and it uses 02 sensors not AFR's.

 

[MTD]

Looking at the different ways to tune the fuel and timing on a 1998 4runner. I like the AEM and feel it will do what they say it will. How about the URD product? Is it as good as the AEM? Only looking at it because the PnP harness is cheaper than the Boomslang.

Anywhere else to get a harness that is PnP for the AEM that doesn't cost quite as much?

Build your own harness from an old ecu and wiring harness, that's what I did. Plus URD's isn't a true plug and play... It's a harness extension that you have to wire your piggy back into anyway

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[MTD]

Oh haha good call. The engine ECU is '99 Tacoma, and it uses 02 sensors not AFR's.

Yep that's why you can do that. Anyone with a newer Tacoma or 99+ 4runner can't do that and should go with the AEM system for sure

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