tx_shooter
New member
That is the old style idler pulley. Have you looked at updating to the auto tension pulley setup?
The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread
- Thread starter SCRunner12
- Start date
That is the old style idler pulley. Have you looked at updating to the auto tension pulley setup?
I messed with it a bit more yesterday and got it to a point where it's running better than it ever has. I used your base O2 map and made some adjustments for my setup. I used the fuel map to add some fuel at high RPMs and tweaked the timing map to tune out some high load low RPM ping. I might have an intermittent vacuum leak because throughout the course of my tuning yesterday I somehow managed to eliminate the AFR spike upon initial throttle. I didn't do anything specifically to try to get rid of it though.
I still need to fine tune the fuel and timing maps. Also need to data log a full throttle run to make sure I'm getting the full boost pressure the 2.1" pulley can deliver. Thanks so much for your help!
Jszeszko
New member
No, I'd like to get a 2.2 pulley on it and do the URD tensioner while I'm at it, but at this point I'm just going to replace the old idler. I had my buddy who works in parts at Toyota find it, only cost $25 for a new OEM one.
nchacon1984
New member
Cant wait to contribute here. Going to start off by just installing it the way it comes from factory then hopefully go with the bigger pulley and 7th injector sometime next year. For the price Im getting it, cant really complain.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Where did you find the one you got?
nchacon1984
New member
One of my closest friends that i would only trust working on my cars when I need help had it laying around. He took it off his T100 that was wrecked. As soon as he heard I got a 4R he said "its yours when you want it" I am trading him for some civic parts I have laying around and some cash on top.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Nothing wrong with a supercharger-only system. Since it was almost free, slap it on and go play in the mud! Or snow, or dirt, or gravel, or whatever.
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Yoter
New member
Hey Tim, I just saw this one for sale at a good price if you are still looking:
https://ventura.craigslist.org/pts/d/toyota-trd-34l-supercharger/6707103667.html
nchacon1984
New member
here it is...installed.
Man o man, I'm enjoying my rig a lot more. I like the acceleration. Only problem I'm having now is that it'll bog or hesitate at times. No codes but did see a miss fire in cylinder 4-6 from my torque pro app. I'm thinking it might be the left over 87 gas in tank. Going to run it low and fill up with premium and see if that changes it after a few fill ups or maybe swapping out plugs for cooler ones might help it. Any help is appreciated Overall really happy with it.
Man o man, I'm enjoying my rig a lot more. I like the acceleration. Only problem I'm having now is that it'll bog or hesitate at times. No codes but did see a miss fire in cylinder 4-6 from my torque pro app. I'm thinking it might be the left over 87 gas in tank. Going to run it low and fill up with premium and see if that changes it after a few fill ups or maybe swapping out plugs for cooler ones might help it. Any help is appreciated Overall really happy with it.
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Pull the EFI fuse (not relay, fuse) in the engine bay to reset fuel trims and put some 91 or higher fuel and then give it a spin. Also on your next tune-up, replace the spark plugs with iridium plugs that are two steps colder, like the DENSO IK-22's. Will help with the misfires & hot engine temps.
nchacon1984
New member
Did it and no changes except now I got a P0325 code on the way to work. Might have to upgrade plugs, read somewhere else that upgrading injectors to supra ones help and replacing the thermostat with a 170 degree from URD helps too. Thought this was a install and go kind of thing, this is frustrating.
Make sure you do the “free FMU” mod, check all vac lines to make sure you didn’t miss one. I was getting the same code until I looked and saw I missed the small vac line up behind the throttle body. Also be aware the trd S/C was meant to run with the stock air box/intake. If you have any changes that let more air in then stock in will run lean.
Rockdawg84
New member
I would say more likely is that the seal has gotten hard and no longer is sealing well. But with that said it is not uncommon for engine crank snouts to develop a ware mark and causing the front main seal to leak so yes I guess it is very possible. to fix replace the pulley nad the front seal and good to go.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Is that a knock sensor code? Only one reason why you'd get that, you accidentally either pinched or disturbed the knock sensor when you installed the supercharger. Go ahead and try spark plugs, but know that if that's the knock sensor code it only throws that code when the harness or sensor has gone bad.
I've been working on fine tuning my maps and am hitting a snag with a couple things.
1. I can't seem to shake the P0171/2 (can't remember exactly which one. I'll have to check the scan tool again.) My AFRs seem to be correct based on the UEGO gauge, however this code comes back every time I reset it within a short period of time.
2. I'm having really bad stuttering/rich AFR under slight throttle at high load/low RPM. It's not ping, but the whole engine makes a thudding sound and the AFR goes rich. I got a log that captures what's happening, viewable here.
Any thoughts on these two issues?
For those that haven't read a few pages back I have an AEM F/IC 6 w/ larger injectors and a 2.1" pulley.
1. I can't seem to shake the P0171/2 (can't remember exactly which one. I'll have to check the scan tool again.) My AFRs seem to be correct based on the UEGO gauge, however this code comes back every time I reset it within a short period of time.
2. I'm having really bad stuttering/rich AFR under slight throttle at high load/low RPM. It's not ping, but the whole engine makes a thudding sound and the AFR goes rich. I got a log that captures what's happening, viewable here.
Any thoughts on these two issues?
For those that haven't read a few pages back I have an AEM F/IC 6 w/ larger injectors and a 2.1" pulley.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
What value is trace 2 in that graph?
Chances are you are running too rich, I had this exact problem. You only want one map active at a time (fuel or O2) especially in closed loop. If you are pulling or adding fuel AND skewing the O2 at the same time, there's a transition point where both maps are active and they fight each other, causing the AFR's to go haywire.
My advice is not to touch any fuel trims until over 2/3rds of your max boost, when you enter closed loop. Zero out those cells with values and you'll probably find that jerk/stuttering will go away. Took me a few months to figure that out.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Well, the day has finally come. I knew something was wrong after the camshaft install, but it finally happened this morning. My engine is dead. Heard the clattering noise again today, then I heard something snap. Engine lost all power and stumbled it back down the street and into the garage.
Looks like I'm in the market for a new engine.
Looks like I'm in the market for a new engine.
Bummer to hear about your engine going out, I hope you can find a suitable replacement quickly.
I forgot to label trace 2, it's the ignition trim. I went back to take a look at my maps and see if I was adjusting fuel and O2 at the same time. I somehow had a few values in the MAF map right about where I am having issues. I'll try tonight with those values zeroed out and see how it runs.
