The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

98 4runner 3.4 supercharged engine replacement

I have a 98 4runner with a factory supercharger but my head gasket is blown. I have 200,000 plus miles and am looking to just replace the engine. any advice on what to do about putting the super charger on a long block?
 
It's pretty straightforward, just snap a photo or two of the vacuum hose routing, that's the only difficult part. Especially where the check valve is.
 
2.2” vs. stock

I have an 02 2WD that i’ve Recently put a 2.2” URD pulley on. Had to use a chain wrench to get the old one off and slightly damaged the ribs. I had a 3psi increase from 7.5 to 10.5 at sea level. It was great! What I’ve noticed though, is that when cruising on the highway (with cruise control) the truck down shifts out of OD more often. WIth the stock pulley i would just see an increase in rpm, a decrease in vac towards 0 and the truck would keep speed, now it shifts out of OD, rpms increase to 2500 give or take and then re-engages OD once the speed is reached. Am I crazy or does it seem the smaller pulley is making less power at lower RPM? Help!!
 
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I have an 02 2WD that i’ve Recently put a 2.2” URD pulley on. Had to use a chain wrench to get the old one off and slightly damaged the ribs. I had a 3psi increase from 7.5 to 10.5 at sea level. It was great! What I’ve noticed though, is that when cruising on the highway (with cruise control) the truck down shifts out of OD more often. WIth the stock pulley i would just see an increase in rpm, a decrease in vac towards 0 and the truck would keep speed, now it shifts out of OD, rpms increase to 2500 give or take and then re-engages OD once the speed is reached. Am I crazy or does it seem the smaller pulley is making less power at lower RPM? Help!!

Something else happened. Did you touch the transmission kick-down cable (if you own a 96-00)? Sounds like it's overtightened and shift happy. Pulley has absolutely no affect on vacuum due to the bypass valve. If anything, a smaller/lighter pulley would reduce drag on the engine, making it more efficient, not by much though.

Edit: nvm you said you have an 02, I missed that. Could also be the colder weather setting in and your transmission fluid is taking longer to heat up. Engine will rev higher until it reaches optimal temperature.
 
That the kicker! I haven’t touched anything else. The bonus power during higher RPM is awesome! But I feel the loss of low RPM power, and it hurts me deep. I just don’t understand it. I would absolutely get on board with the tranny fluid idea, but I have a 30-60 minute commute twice a day and it’s the same throughout. Appreciate the input though!!



Edit: I did do the elbow removal. But I’m not sure I can see the connection.
 
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That the kicker! I haven’t touched anything else. The bonus power during higher RPM is awesome! But I feel the loss of low RPM power, and it hurts me deep. I just don’t understand it. I would absolutely get on board with the tranny fluid idea, but I have a 30-60 minute commute twice a day and it’s the same throughout. Appreciate the input though!!



Edit: I did do the elbow removal. But I’m not sure I can see the connection.

It's possible the learned fuel trims are wonky. Did you pull the EFI fuse to reset the learned trims?
 
Hey guys, I need abit of help. Sorry if I miss something already on this thread. My question is I have a 1gen sc with FMU, should I run with the FMU or without it??
 
Random question:

Why do some of your run just meth, just 7th injector and why both? Are there pros and cons for each?

Yes, there are benefits for both. There's a 3rd option, bigger injectors plus meth, which is what I did. Short and sweet:

  • 7th injector is the easiest setup. It provides precise fuel adjustments and comes pretuned for our engines. Spraying before the supercharger cools the intake charge (poor man's intercooler) and also helps seal the rotors better, increasing boost.
  • Methanol injection is harder to tune, progressive systems are good but hard to put fuel exactly when you want it. Is cheaper than 7th injector, raises octane under boost and further cools the intake charge, more than the 7th injector. Also cleans up carbon deposits from your engine.
  • 7th injector + methanol is not very common. It's somewhat redundant, mostly just used in high boost applications (11+ PSI) to prevent against detonation and raise octane in places that do not have high octane fuel available.
  • Bigger injectors + meth allows more tuning and more room to add fuel, since stock injectors + 7th has their limits. Provides all the benefits of all above mentioned combos. Only necessary on high boost, high flow applications like how I'm building mine.
 
Yes, there are benefits for both. There's a 3rd option, bigger injectors plus meth, which is what I did. Short and sweet:

  • 7th injector is the easiest setup. It provides precise fuel adjustments and comes pretuned for our engines. Spraying before the supercharger cools the intake charge (poor man's intercooler) and also helps seal the rotors better, increasing boost.
  • Methanol injection is harder to tune, progressive systems are good but hard to put fuel exactly when you want it. Is cheaper than 7th injector, raises octane under boost and further cools the intake charge, more than the 7th injector. Also cleans up carbon deposits from your engine.
  • 7th injector + methanol is not very common. It's somewhat redundant, mostly just used in high boost applications (11+ PSI) to prevent against detonation and raise octane in places that do not have high octane fuel available.
  • Bigger injectors + meth allows more tuning and more room to add fuel, since stock injectors + 7th has their limits. Provides all the benefits of all above mentioned combos. Only necessary on high boost, high flow applications like how I'm building mine.

Thanks for the reply. Ive been seeing a lot about meth injection on FB, so its made me wonder whats the deal with that. lol.
 
Hey guys --

Pretty stoked -- getting the 4Runner TRD SC tuned via the AEM-6 FIC at a local tuner tomorrow. It has the 2.37" pulley on it and I'm giving them the 2.2" URD pulley to put on once they get it running right w/ the 2.37". I have the dynamic tensioner so no idler pulley adjustment is needed.

Is there anything special they need to know when changing the pulley? He asked if it's one of those ones where you need a puller and the SC has to cool off overnight. I've never changed it... so I have no idea. I see a nut and it's barely been used so it isn't rusty or anything like that.

Please advise --
Thanks!
-Steve
 
Well I finally figured out why my truck was not running correctly. It wasn't anything to do with the AFR, turned out I had a bad knock sensor. I used paperclips in the harness to "switch" bank sensors...and the bad sensor followed the code.

On that note, I got it running correctly and my truck saved my mom and I's life. We lived in Paradise, CA and the entire town has burned down. I was towing a tiny house on wheels with an F250. Would could not get out via evac route, tried going down hill on gravel road but the fire just popped in front of us. I had to abandon the tiny house, mom turned around in the 4Runner and drove until we were surrounded by flames and she couldn't see. We sat there waiting to burn to death (or die of smoke but not enough smoke inside the truck). When the leaves and light stuff burned off, I could see. Hopped in front seat and drove through flames. All blinkers, mirrors, plastics are melted. Barely GTFO. I'd post pics of my burned Mercedes, Nissan, motorcycles but I don't know how.

So my point being...make sure you have an evac plan for earthquake, fire, tornado or whatever. Make sure you have a running vehicle. I may put bumpers on now that I can ram mailboxes, fences, etc. but hopefully I never go through this again.
 
Wow, just wow and glad to hear y'all made it out safely.

Real life reminder on the importance of having (and tested) an emergency plan.

Best of luck,

Eddie

On that note, I got it running correctly and my truck saved my mom and I's life. We lived in Paradise, CA and the entire town has burned down. I was towing a tiny house on wheels with an F250. Would could not get out via evac route, tried going down hill on gravel road but the fire just popped in front of us. I had to abandon the tiny house, mom turned around in the 4Runner and drove until we were surrounded by flames and she couldn't see. We sat there waiting to burn to death (or die of smoke but not enough smoke inside the truck). When the leaves and light stuff burned off, I could see. Hopped in front seat and drove through flames. All blinkers, mirrors, plastics are melted. Barely GTFO. I'd post pics of my burned Mercedes, Nissan, motorcycles but I don't know how.

So my point being...make sure you have an evac plan for earthquake, fire, tornado or whatever. Make sure you have a running vehicle. I may put bumpers on now that I can ram mailboxes, fences, etc. but hopefully I never go through this again.
 
Hey guys --

Pretty stoked -- getting the 4Runner TRD SC tuned via the AEM-6 FIC at a local tuner tomorrow. It has the 2.37" pulley on it and I'm giving them the 2.2" URD pulley to put on once they get it running right w/ the 2.37". I have the dynamic tensioner so no idler pulley adjustment is needed.

Is there anything special they need to know when changing the pulley? He asked if it's one of those ones where you need a puller and the SC has to cool off overnight. I've never changed it... so I have no idea. I see a nut and it's barely been used so it isn't rusty or anything like that.

Please advise --
Thanks!
-Steve

The pulley is not press fit, it's keyed and can be pulled off with a regular pulley puller. Small 3 jaw should work fine. HOWEVER, that nut is a pain to get off if it's been there a long time. You'll need to keep the belt on and use and impact hammer or drill. You cannot take it off with just a socket wrench.
 
The pulley is not press fit, it's keyed and can be pulled off with a regular pulley puller. Small 3 jaw should work fine. HOWEVER, that nut is a pain to get off if it's been there a long time. You'll need to keep the belt on and use and impact hammer or drill. You cannot take it off with just a socket wrench.

I had a hell of a time getting the nut off. I was finally able to do it using a chain wrench with a rubber strap underneath it to protect the original pulley. Still damaged it a little.
 
I had a hell of a time getting the nut off. I was finally able to do it using a chain wrench with a rubber strap underneath it to protect the original pulley. Still damaged it a little.

That nut was the reason why I got air tools lol. I was thinking of getting some anyway, but that sucker was stuck! Plus I started flipping/dismantling 4Runners so it came in handy a lot.
 

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