The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

......... Since you placed an order, send an email to URD and let them know you ordered the products, live at 4000-5000 ft elevation and would like a base tune. The base tune will be lightyears ahead of having no tune.

I didn't realize there were different tunes available.... Magnuson prices are going up by $500 next week, so I'm going to order a combo kit from URD for the 7th kit/SC w/2.2 pulley. I'll be installing an AFR and boost gauge, but I'm not super savvy on tuning myself. Reliability is certainly more important that absolute peak power for me, however, I would like to run the 2.2 pulley if I can make it run well.

I live at sea level in CA, so 91 octane is all i'll be able to run. Should I not bother with a specific tune from URD??
 
I didn't realize there were different tunes available.... Magnuson prices are going up by $500 next week, so I'm going to order a combo kit from URD for the 7th kit/SC w/2.2 pulley. I'll be installing an AFR and boost gauge, but I'm not super savvy on tuning myself. Reliability is certainly more important that absolute peak power for me, however, I would like to run the 2.2 pulley if I can make it run well.

I live at sea level in CA, so 91 octane is all i'll be able to run. Should I not bother with a specific tune from URD??

You'll want the tune. At sea level you're run a lot more lean and need the extra fuel from the 7th injector, especially with the 2.2. Can't run the 2.2 without a tune without risking damaging the motor.
 
You'll want the tune. At sea level you're run a lot more lean and need the extra fuel from the 7th injector, especially with the 2.2. Can't run the 2.2 without a tune without risking damaging the motor.

Thanks a lot! One more question... I noticed some people on this threads talking about the "Dynamic tensioner kit" and I noticed that URD has an option to add a "Tensioner pulley" to the SC/7th kit. It looks like the kit is a whole replacement kit and the pulley is just that. Would I need either of those? From reading the URD website, it looks like their tensioner pulley is just for those racing off-road and jumping their rigs, but some people on my local FB 3rd Gen group said the pulley upgrade increases the life of the blower bearings. Thoughts?

URD 5vz Idler Pulley for TRD Supercharger Dynamic Tensioner - Underdog Racing Development
 
Thanks a lot! One more question... I noticed some people on this threads talking about the "Dynamic tensioner kit" and I noticed that URD has an option to add a "Tensioner pulley" to the SC/7th kit. It looks like the kit is a whole replacement kit and the pulley is just that. Would I need either of those? From reading the URD website, it looks like their tensioner pulley is just for those racing off-road and jumping their rigs, but some people on my local FB 3rd Gen group said the pulley upgrade increases the life of the blower bearings. Thoughts?

URD 5vz Idler Pulley for TRD Supercharger Dynamic Tensioner - Underdog Racing Development

When I bought just the supercharger from URD a few years ago, it came with the dynamic tensioner
 
Thanks a lot! One more question... I noticed some people on this threads talking about the "Dynamic tensioner kit" and I noticed that URD has an option to add a "Tensioner pulley" to the SC/7th kit. It looks like the kit is a whole replacement kit and the pulley is just that. Would I need either of those? From reading the URD website, it looks like their tensioner pulley is just for those racing off-road and jumping their rigs, but some people on my local FB 3rd Gen group said the pulley upgrade increases the life of the blower bearings. Thoughts?

URD 5vz Idler Pulley for TRD Supercharger Dynamic Tensioner - Underdog Racing Development

In my experience, I've never had my belt slip off my pulley on the dynamic tensioner. It looks like that is the main purpose for changing the pulley. Now there is a difference between the static vs the dynamic tensioner that you can get with our superchargers. Dynamic tensioner being the better option. Imo, you dont need to change the pulley on the dynamic tensioner. Maybe what they describe, but that's very few people. Like off-road racing applications or I guess if you want matching color pulleys, like the 2.2 or 2.1 red anodized aluminum pulley.
 
Question for you experts: Ever since installing my 2.2" pulley and the 7th injector kit, I am getting a really strong burnt rubber smell from the engine bay. I had this about 2 years ago also, so I replaced the valve cover gaskets, and the smell went away. But now its back.

Could the smaller pulley be creating more pressure inside the engine, and cause more oil to leak out? Any thoughts on this?

Would installing an oil catch can in line with the PCV valve help eliminate the smell problem?

Do you think I have to replace the valve cover gaskets again so soon?
 
When was the last time the PCV valve was actually replaced? I've noticed a supercharged engine goes through PCV's quicker than a N/A engine, probably because there's more pressure pushing oil and fuel vapor out that tiny valve. It's a $5 part, pick up a new grommet too while you are at it. I've replaced mine twice now.

The other thing to look at is your belts, all 3 of them. Do you have any uneven wear or fraying on the edges? Is your supercharger belt misaligned or you find it sliding to one side of the tensioner? If yes, it's probably the belt creating the burning rubber smell. I would see if there's any defect with the 2.2" pulley if that's the case.

I had a catch can on mine for a year or so, it did a fantastic job of catching all the water vapor. Oh wait, they are supposed to catch oil? Nope, none of that to be found.
 
Question for you experts: Ever since installing my 2.2" pulley and the 7th injector kit, I am getting a really strong burnt rubber smell from the engine bay. I had this about 2 years ago also, so I replaced the valve cover gaskets, and the smell went away. But now its back.

Could the smaller pulley be creating more pressure inside the engine, and cause more oil to leak out? Any thoughts on this?

Would installing an oil catch can in line with the PCV valve help eliminate the smell problem?

Do you think I have to replace the valve cover gaskets again so soon?

I get this smell whenever I smash the throttle and can feel the s/c belt slipping a bit...but I am also running the 2.1" pulley. FWIW, I have a catch can...I am not sure it does much of anything but felt like it "might" be worth doing...no regrets but I doubt it provides a significant benefit...haven't had to drain it since installed....maybe 6 mo ago. Curious to hear what you figure out.
 
When was the last time the PCV valve was actually replaced? I've noticed a supercharged engine goes through PCV's quicker than a N/A engine, probably because there's more pressure pushing oil and fuel vapor out that tiny valve. It's a $5 part, pick up a new grommet too while you are at it. I've replaced mine twice now.

The other thing to look at is your belts, all 3 of them. Do you have any uneven wear or fraying on the edges? Is your supercharger belt misaligned or you find it sliding to one side of the tensioner? If yes, it's probably the belt creating the burning rubber smell. I would see if there's any defect with the 2.2" pulley if that's the case.

I had a catch can on mine for a year or so, it did a fantastic job of catching all the water vapor. Oh wait, they are supposed to catch oil? Nope, none of that to be found.

I get this smell whenever I smash the throttle and can feel the s/c belt slipping a bit...but I am also running the 2.1" pulley. FWIW, I have a catch can...I am not sure it does much of anything but felt like it "might" be worth doing...no regrets but I doubt it provides a significant benefit...haven't had to drain it since installed....maybe 6 mo ago. Curious to hear what you figure out.

Thanks for replying guys! The PCV valve was replaced 3 years ago. I've only had the supercharger on for the last 2 years, and just installed the 2.2" pulley last month. I only put about 9-10K miles on the truck per year.

I will definitely replace the PCV valve. I will check the belts too. It doesn't sound like the catch can will be of much help.

Thanks.
 
A reminder to periodically check your hoses. I was looking over mine and noticed the bypass valve hose had become very loose on the brass fitting on the back. A hose clamp made sure that the boost leak didn't get any worse. The hose actually seems too large for the fitting, I think it should have been a size smaller. Those leaks are sneaky!
 
Hey I know there is info out there on rebuilding the gray 1st gen S/C especially by chris360hawks. But I was wondering about replacing bearings and seals in rotor plate. I've read that it is very difficult and requires extreme tolerances on realigning the rotors. How does one make sure that the rotors go back on with the right orientation/tolerances? I feel I can tackle the job but this whole thing about proper exact alignment has me a bit concerned. Has anyone done this and any advice you can give?
 
I have no experience removing the rear bearings, sorry. I did stumble across this video pressing them out a while back though but note there are some differences in the housing. YouTube

On a similar note, has anyone ported the intake side of the rotor housing? I have an overbored throttle body so thinking about porting the intake. Also thinking about opening up the intake runner into the housing, as well as the exit port to accommodate the extra flow. If anyone has experience, I would really appreciate it.
 
what is everyone's thoughts on the increase in price on the 3.4l superchargers from Magnuson?...went up by $500 approximately depending on who you bought it from.


I love how everything to do with the 3rd Gen Toyota 4Runner is going up in value over time. The 4runner is so ruggedly elegant that it gets better with time! When will these trucks ever depreciate in value?






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what is everyone's thoughts on the increase in price on the 3.4l superchargers from Magnuson?...went up by $500 approximately depending on who you bought it from.


I love how everything to do with the 3rd Gen Toyota 4Runner is going up in value over time. The 4runner is so ruggedly elegant that it gets better with time! When will these trucks ever depreciate in value?

.


I felt that at 3k for just the blower it was already overpriced. At 3500 it's definitely overpriced for the gains you'll see and additional money you would need in tuning and what not. I would of liked to see Magnuson give the supercharger a refreshed design and possibly incorporate an intercooler like all their other superchargers use. I think that would warrant a increase in price and it would make the truck run so much better.

But offering the same 20+ year old design that has known issues and asking nearly as much as a lot of 3rd gens will sell for just seems a little ridiculous to me
 
I felt that at 3k for just the blower it was already overpriced. At 3500 it's definitely overpriced for the gains you'll see and additional money you would need in tuning and what not. I would of liked to see Magnuson give the supercharger a refreshed design and possibly incorporate an intercooler like all their other superchargers use. I think that would warrant a increase in price and it would make the truck run so much better.

But offering the same 20+ year old design that has known issues and asking nearly as much as a lot of 3rd gens will sell for just seems a little ridiculous to me

100% agreed, even at $2000 invest (supercharger plus piggyback ecu) its still a stretch to say its worth it or not, IMO. Granted, I haven't wired in the piggyback yet cause other stuff broke.:becky:
 
I felt that at 3k for just the blower it was already overpriced. At 3500 it's definitely overpriced for the gains you'll see and additional money you would need in tuning and what not. I would of liked to see Magnuson give the supercharger a refreshed design and possibly incorporate an intercooler like all their other superchargers use. I think that would warrant a increase in price and it would make the truck run so much better.

But offering the same 20+ year old design that has known issues and asking nearly as much as a lot of 3rd gens will sell for just seems a little ridiculous to me

That's why I bought mine with it already attached! I paid about a $1500 premium over a non-supercharged 4Runner of similar options & mileage at the time.

Have you looked at the cost for the current 4Runners though? It's freakin' $6000! So compared to others systems it's a steal. I just hopped on their site again and the Tundra supercharger is $7000...
 
Quick question for those running the supra injectors. I have read in a few places that the 5vz uses an air assist style injector, the benefits of doing this seem kinda unclear from my reading but I would assume its for better fuel atomization. Looking at supra injectors I am seeing two options, non air assist P/N 23250-46030 or air assist P/N 23250-46050. Im leaning toward running the air assist style to keep it as close to the same as the stock injectors. Has anyone tried this? I know the non air assist injectors drop right in but the air assist style seems to be a little different and I dont know if it would fit. Im hoping to order these in the next week or so but I need to make a decision on what style to get first haha.

Links

Air assist
https://www.amazon.com/Re-Manufactu...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KDKWECBC39C8DXDB21V2

Non air assist
https://www.amazon.com/Re-Manufactu...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=W6XGKY3P6HVVG4EA09X2
 
Quick question for those running the supra injectors. I have read in a few places that the 5vz uses an air assist style injector, the benefits of doing this seem kinda unclear from my reading but I would assume its for better fuel atomization. Looking at supra injectors I am seeing two options, non air assist P/N 23250-46030 or air assist P/N 23250-46050. Im leaning toward running the air assist style to keep it as close to the same as the stock injectors. Has anyone tried this? I know the non air assist injectors drop right in but the air assist style seems to be a little different and I dont know if it would fit. Im hoping to order these in the next week or so but I need to make a decision on what style to get first haha.

Links

Air assist
https://www.amazon.com/Re-Manufactu...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KDKWECBC39C8DXDB21V2

Non air assist
https://www.amazon.com/Re-Manufactu...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=W6XGKY3P6HVVG4EA09X2



Hello there.

I recently did this and went with the 46030 set

The drivebility is amazing!

Here is what I did to make them fit

Remove the lower seal from your original injector

Swap it to the new injector on the bottom

It’s not an injector o-ring I am referring to. It’s the lower seal thing

Here is each injector side by side. Original is on the left, new ones on the right
ccda7343e35d3ea823f9b52dcab17c97.jpg


Both with seals removed

c2106e7a2e9fd55e03e84ea9d749c4b5.jpg


Swap the seal from the old one to the new one
3a6bdbcd7f3aca26a0cd1aa4801e2b9c.jpg


And this is what it will look like when it’s done

527962d9c6e9c7a6a8df9f02e9f3ee79.jpg


And they fit like a glove

3b5f04522ad50912b620ba0fea5b597d.jpg



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