Airaid intake tubing to replace the oem setup with silencer attachment? yes/no?
I did it. Kept OEM on a shelf just in case. Opens up some space in the engine bay. It’s louder. Pretty sure that’s it. I personally like it better but I also know it’s not giving me any meaningful performance enhancement.
I wanna do it, but I just don’t know if I can justify $159 for a tube. Know what I mean? I DO want it for the appearance, and definitely want it to clean up the engine bay, so as to assist with changing plugs and wires much more easily. I’ll think on it for a while. Thank you for your input!
Are you asking about doing a 1” front differential drop on a stock-height 4Runner?
I don’t know that it would hurt anything, but I also don’t know what you’d gain. AFAIK, you only need a diff drop once a lift gets high enough to make your CV angles too extreme, leading to at best reduced droop, at worst premature wear or failure.
At stock height, the CV angles are as-designed (ideal).
I have about a 1”-1.5” lift in the front and I don’t need a diff drop. But it seems like the consensus on this forum is once your lift gets higher than 2”-3” or so, you’ll want a diff drop.
Is there a problem you’re trying to solve or just curious?
Maybe someone with more info will chime in.
The cheapest I've found is McGeorge. You can save a little bit of money by buying both LBJ's together 04005-02235 but you'll need to order two castle nuts 90171-A0005 as well.Best deal on oem lower ball joints? Camelback is a bit more expensive than McGeorge, but does anyone know any place better?
They are a slightly different design and will require different tie rod ends and you'll lose some steering angle. See post above this for LBJ kit part number. Also, you probably adjusted your rear drums too tight and they are dragging. Try loosening the adjusters a couple notches.Hey guys, back again. Had to do some front brake work on my 3rd gen, rotors, calipers and pads. My rears seemed loose so I manually adjusted them and noticed that my ebrake lever was pretty hard to pull after 5 clicks and when I checked the temp of the rears with my infrared after a 30 mile round trip from town, they were both at 150-160f. Are these specs relatively normal or do I need to readjust them?
EDIT: out of pure curiosity, has anyone successfully used 1st gen tundra/sequoia LBJ's on a 3rd gen before? I saw a post and for the of me, can't find it.
They are a slightly different design and will require different tie rod ends and you'll lose some steering angle. See post above this for LBJ kit part number. Also, you probably adjusted your rear drums too tight and they are dragging. Try loosening the adjusters a couple notches.
I'll give that a try, see if it helps. The prices for the LBJ's and castle nuts were good until I saw how much they wanted for shipping. Then again I live in Hawaii so shipping cost shouldn't have been a surprise for me.....
Hey guys, back again. Had to do some front brake work on my 3rd gen, rotors, calipers and pads. My rears seemed loose so I manually adjusted them and noticed that my ebrake lever was pretty hard to pull after 5 clicks and when I checked the temp of the rears with my infrared after a 30 mile round trip from town, they were both at 150-160f. Are these specs relatively normal or do I need to readjust them?
EDIT: out of pure curiosity, has anyone successfully used 1st gen tundra/sequoia LBJ's on a 3rd gen before? I saw a post and for the of me, can't find it.
I'll give that a try, see if it helps. The prices for the LBJ's and castle nuts were good until I saw how much they wanted for shipping. Then again I live in Hawaii so shipping cost shouldn't have been a surprise for me.....
have you tried amayama...Genuine Japanese Car Part Imports - Amayama
they ship from japan, the shipping except heavy stuff is "ok"' takes a few weeks. But prices are real low...so sometimes even with the shipping you get better than dealer.....the local dealer sucks here and charges 20 to 30% over MSRP, and he is the only dealer for over 300 miles and that next one....they own too.
I live opposite of you....alaska.... and shipping is nuts to here too unless I use amazon prime or something....even places that say free shipping ...in small print say not to AK or Hawaii
what up guys was wondering what suspension you guys recommend? I'm kind of leaning towards bilstein 5100 but would love to hear your guys input? Also anything else I have to change while I'm doing that job?
How much weight are you running and how much lift do you want (if any at all)?
i want about 2.5 to 3 inches want to be able to put some bigger tires and eventually overland the runner
Have you read through the Lift Information/FAQ yet?