The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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Rigid Radiance Pods

Curious if anyone is running these on their 3rd gen. Looking to do the True North Fabrication DIY Grille with LED cutouts and running the amber radiance pods. Any idea where to run the lead for the amber lights? I'd like them to run full-time when the 4runner is started.
 

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Curious if anyone is running these on their 3rd gen. Looking to do the True North Fabrication DIY Grille with LED cutouts and running the amber radiance pods. Any idea where to run the lead for the amber lights? I'd like them to run full-time when the 4runner is started.
Im running SRQ's satoshi grille with lights (pretty similar) and I personally found tapping them into my old fog leads worked perfect. If you don't have fog lights/if that's not an option I don't see why running them to a switch wouldn't suffice just fine
 
‘99 Limited. Shifted into 4WD, would not shift out. Tried all suggestions, no luck. Finally tapped on what I think to be actuator and it popped out. This is what I tapped on but it does not look like any actuator on net photos. Any thoughts on a maintenance plan before the next CO winter?
The best thing you can do for those transfer cases is exercise them regularly. I try to put mine into 4HI at least once a week and 4HI Locked at least every other week. I also use 4HI every time it rains enough for the roads to be wet.
 
Last week I started wiping off some grime while I was inspecting the brakes. It occurred to me that the grime might actually be serving a purpose so I stopped.

I saw this on the driver's side today before replacing my front sway bar bushings. It's the first time I've noticed any grease being flung about like that. Am I looking at a bad CV axle, reboot, something entirely different?
 

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Last week I started wiping off some grime while I was inspecting the brakes. It occurred to me that the grime might actually be serving a purpose so I stopped.

I saw this on the driver's side today before replacing my front sway bar bushings. It's the first time I've noticed any grease being flung about like that. Am I looking at a bad CV axle, reboot, something entirely different?
Torn cv boot. You can reboot those or get replacement axles. Timmy has a good youtube video for rebooting the stock axles and stretching the boots so they don't rub: CV Axle Reboot & Replacement With CV Boot Stretch Mod - YouTube Part numbers and torque values are in the video description.
 
Torn cv boot. You can reboot those or get replacement axles. Timmy has a good youtube video for rebooting the stock axles and stretching the boots so they don't rub: CV Axle Reboot & Replacement With CV Boot Stretch Mod - YouTube Part numbers and torque values are in the video description.

I watched that video last night and it looks like I could muddle my way through it after buying a couple more tools. I should've known better than to try and clean anything! Probably tore it myself while wiping. Guess that's to expected at 25 years.
 
I watched that video last night and it looks like I could muddle my way through it after buying a couple more tools. I should've known better than to try and clean anything! Probably tore it myself while wiping. Guess that's to expected at 25 years.
It's pretty common for axle boots to start leaking after any change in ride height. They spent the last 200k miles used to a certain ride height and don't like the change.
 
It's pretty common for axle boots to start leaking after any change in ride height. They spent the last 200k miles used to a certain ride height and don't like the change.

There was no change in ride height. The only suspension change I made before this appeared was replacing LBJs. Either way, it's old. I'll have to get to both sides after I do the brakes and rack bushings. Funny how everything was "fine" until I got it in my head to wrench on this thing myself!
 
There was no change in ride height. The only suspension change I made before this appeared was replacing LBJs. Either way, it's old. I'll have to get to both sides after I do the brakes and rack bushings. Funny how everything was "fine" until I got it in my head to wrench on this thing myself!
Every time I fix something on my 4Runner something else breaks. I've had the same squeak for almost a year because I'm afraid of what will break after I fix that lol
 
New owner: the automatic transmission shift lever has a ton of play in it. I got under the car and it seems like the link doesn't really have anything bracing it to prevent side-to-side motion. Is there something above the floorboards/within the transmission lever housing that is maybe worn or loose?
 
New owner: the automatic transmission shift lever has a ton of play in it. I got under the car and it seems like the link doesn't really have anything bracing it to prevent side-to-side motion. Is there something above the floorboards/within the transmission lever housing that is maybe worn or loose?

Sounds like you need new shifter bushings. Part # is 9038511003 and I think it fits both the 4WD and the 2WD models. You will need 4 for the 4WD model or 2 for the 2WD.
 
Thanks! It also feels a little like it wants to shift out of gear--like there is almost no resistance to moving between gears and very little "notch" when you have arrived at the gear selection. Will that "feel" maybe come back with new bushings?
 
Thanks! It also feels a little like it wants to shift out of gear--like there is almost no resistance to moving between gears and very little "notch" when you have arrived at the gear selection. Will that "feel" maybe come back with new bushings?

Yup, it should feel tight when shifting and there should be no movement side to side! It's the best maintenance thing i've done to the truck interior wise.

I watched Timmy the Toolman's video while doing this job because it was the best video out there for this job:
Auto Trans Shifter Bushing Replacement & Transfer Case Shifter Seat Replacement (3rd Gen 4runner) - YouTube
 
Spectre drop in air filters. Opinions/experiences?

Snake oil, a meme, etc. At absolute most you'll see a 1-2hp difference at the cost of dirtying your MAF faster and ultimately installing something that requires more maintenance than before. Many would argue they're not particularly good for your engine as they act less like a filter and more like a fine mesh, hold it up to the light and you can typically see through these "high flow" filters, which is exactly how they achieve these flow rates.
 
Looking at a half rack, mostly to haul bigger stuff that won’t fit inside. Most of the aftermarket seems to use square extruded aluminum cross bars, like this.
64a1f5d02c2cd6557fe1be16d01e8121.jpg


I also have a kayak rack and a bike rack that fit on the factory cross bars. These seem to be made for bars that are of a more aerodynamic shape. Will they fit an aftermarket square bar?

529baad7ae4f8255ac988b4e60a33bd5.jpg


547778eb7f45e31b7c778a58bb40f822.jpg
 
Looking at a half rack, mostly to haul bigger stuff that won’t fit inside. Most of the aftermarket seems to use square extruded aluminum cross bars, like this.
64a1f5d02c2cd6557fe1be16d01e8121.jpg


I also have a kayak rack and a bike rack that fit on the factory cross bars. These seem to be made for bars that are of a more aerodynamic shape. Will they fit an aftermarket square bar?

529baad7ae4f8255ac988b4e60a33bd5.jpg


547778eb7f45e31b7c778a58bb40f822.jpg
It should, light bars are a pretty "universal" mount. Almost always just some pegs on the side of the bar with some threads in the center for you to screw the brackets to. If I'm not mistaken that bar is from Raxiom (I have their 10" bar and it look incredibly similar) and if that's the case I would highly recommend going with someone else. Their light output is terrible, ffs my 10" bar was dimmer than my high-beams and barely brighter than my low-beams...
 
I am looking at purchasing a 3rd gen 4Runner but the inspection report came up with a lot of issue. I wonder if the repair is even worth it or I stay away.
It’s a 96 with 300k miles.
 
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