Sparky 97Runner
New member
3rd Gens are super solid 4wd vehicles. If it's rust free and the frame is straight buy it and start wrenching!
The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
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Devbot
New member
...well don't tell us what these "issues" are or anything, that'd be silly
This is your only warning bud! Do not try to use common sense or logic on the internet! You're going to ruin it for everyone!!! :banplease:
CoCoCo4Runner
New member
Oh sweet, a “questions that don’t deserve their own thread” thread
This should be simple, I’ve got a 1998 4wd Limited. Can I fit the 231 Tundra brakes?
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This should be simple, I’ve got a 1998 4wd Limited. Can I fit the 231 Tundra brakes?
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cl4Rk
Member
Oh sweet, a “questions that don’t deserve their own thread” thread
This should be simple, I’ve got a 1998 4wd Limited. Can I fit the 231 Tundra brakes?
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Pretty sure those split-spoke* wheels won’t allow you to fit 231s without spacers or some cutting/grinding.
* I have the same wheels. They are usually listed as: “16" 4 RUNNER 96-98 16x7 alloy w/Chou Seiki manufacturer shank style lug nuts requires washer”
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CoCoCo4Runner
New member
Got it, thanks! There are quite a few variations on the 4runner wheels.
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Devbot
New member
There are ZERO 3rd gens that can fit 231s without cutting/grinding, regardless of wheel size
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CoCoCo4Runner
New member
Adventure Taco made a good write on what rims fits the 231's.
Lighting Wiring
I’ve been the proud owner of a ‘98 SR5 Manual Transmission for about a month. I’ve already spent a weekend at the pick a part junkyards getting things for my truck.
My interior dome light works on the ON setting but not the DOOR setting. I know my door sensors work because I can’t lock the car if the door is open, it chimes at me when I open the door with the key in, etc.
I’ve switched out my light with another from a donor truck - same exact problem.
The only other thing I can think of is the cargo area light isn’t working at all. Could the DOOR setting be on a circuit with that light that the ON setting isn’t on?
Any advice?
Update:
I changed the cargo light bulb. It now also works in the ON position but not the DOOR position.
I’ve been the proud owner of a ‘98 SR5 Manual Transmission for about a month. I’ve already spent a weekend at the pick a part junkyards getting things for my truck.
My interior dome light works on the ON setting but not the DOOR setting. I know my door sensors work because I can’t lock the car if the door is open, it chimes at me when I open the door with the key in, etc.
I’ve switched out my light with another from a donor truck - same exact problem.
The only other thing I can think of is the cargo area light isn’t working at all. Could the DOOR setting be on a circuit with that light that the ON setting isn’t on?
Any advice?
Update:
I changed the cargo light bulb. It now also works in the ON position but not the DOOR position.
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spartacus
Senior Member
Take the light out and clean all the contacts. There is a spring with a ball on the switch lever that will fall out, don't loose that.
Spriggs53
New member
Driveline Groan/drone
I know this question probably deserves a thread but I don’t have my count up and I’m at a super loss.
I’ve got a 02 SR5 2wd, auto trans. Not that long ago I installed a 2” lift right after I did the timing belt job, ever sense then I’ve been getting a groaning/droning noise when I give it the tiniest bit of gas anywhere above 50mph. The FIL is quite a seasoned mechanic so I got him to help me locate the noise. We lifted the rear off the ground, put it in drive and let it idle. The noise started almost immediately, not only that, when I went to turn on the 4R it made a loud clunk/clang and grind from the trans somewhere, likely where the torque converter sits inside. It didn’t do that on the ground. The droning/groaning sound was coming from all over the drive shaft, mostly where it mates with the transmission. We listened with a stethoscope everywhere. The diff was quiet, the transmission was quiet, but where the DS meets the Trans there was a good bit of noise, so we figured drive shaft. I brought it to my trans mechanic and he started with the diagnosis of pinion bearings or something with the diff, I can’t remember. He loaded it up on his lift and did the same thing we did: he put it in gear, let it idle and immediately he heard it. He agreed with us; its the driveshaft. Yesterday, I get my new driveshaft, I march outside with all my tools and I replace the driveshaft. I drive to work this morning and what do I hear? That same droning/groaning noise coming from the same area. I’ve been doing research all day and the only thing I can figure is the pinion bearing, but most people report a whining noise. There is not whining noise. This isn’t a constant noise, its only when I give it the tiniest big of gas on the ground. So thats concludes my… rant?
Thoughts, questions, concerns, ideas? Am I over thinking this?
P.S. the rear axle seals were leaking so I did that not that long ago, but that was after noticing the noise.
P.S.s. Its got 147000 miles, 0 abuse.
I know this question probably deserves a thread but I don’t have my count up and I’m at a super loss.
I’ve got a 02 SR5 2wd, auto trans. Not that long ago I installed a 2” lift right after I did the timing belt job, ever sense then I’ve been getting a groaning/droning noise when I give it the tiniest bit of gas anywhere above 50mph. The FIL is quite a seasoned mechanic so I got him to help me locate the noise. We lifted the rear off the ground, put it in drive and let it idle. The noise started almost immediately, not only that, when I went to turn on the 4R it made a loud clunk/clang and grind from the trans somewhere, likely where the torque converter sits inside. It didn’t do that on the ground. The droning/groaning sound was coming from all over the drive shaft, mostly where it mates with the transmission. We listened with a stethoscope everywhere. The diff was quiet, the transmission was quiet, but where the DS meets the Trans there was a good bit of noise, so we figured drive shaft. I brought it to my trans mechanic and he started with the diagnosis of pinion bearings or something with the diff, I can’t remember. He loaded it up on his lift and did the same thing we did: he put it in gear, let it idle and immediately he heard it. He agreed with us; its the driveshaft. Yesterday, I get my new driveshaft, I march outside with all my tools and I replace the driveshaft. I drive to work this morning and what do I hear? That same droning/groaning noise coming from the same area. I’ve been doing research all day and the only thing I can figure is the pinion bearing, but most people report a whining noise. There is not whining noise. This isn’t a constant noise, its only when I give it the tiniest big of gas on the ground. So thats concludes my… rant?
Thoughts, questions, concerns, ideas? Am I over thinking this?
P.S. the rear axle seals were leaking so I did that not that long ago, but that was after noticing the noise.
P.S.s. Its got 147000 miles, 0 abuse.
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Devbot
New member
Yes, it is most likely your u-joint. Long story short the needle bearings inside the caps wear down at a certain angle which becomes altered after a lift, causing them to ride on nothing but high/low spots. Even a tiny amount of play in a u-joint can cause a clunk when shifting into gear or coming to a stop. Replace the whole driveshaft with aftermarket, they're cheaper than OEM and it's impossible to replace the u-joints in the OEM double cardan due to design. You can look up more about it if you want but that's the jist, I've pretty much written this exact post like 5-10 times over the past couple months and I'm damn tired of it lol (nothing on you of course, just saying). It's extremely common when lifting a vehicle that's has some mileage on it, and yet from what I've seen here almost no mechanic knows it - lots like you who take it to somebody that ends up just as stumped as them. Makes you wonder how much salt they're worth eh?
Spriggs53
New member
Yes, it is most likely your u-joint. Long story short the needle bearings inside the caps wear down at a certain angle which becomes altered after a lift, causing them to ride on nothing but high/low spots. Even a tiny amount of play in a u-joint can cause a clunk when shifting into gear or coming to a stop. Replace the whole driveshaft with aftermarket, they're cheaper than OEM and it's impossible to replace the u-joints in the OEM double cardan due to design. You can look up more about it if you want but that's the jist, I've pretty much written this exact post like 5-10 times over the past couple months and I'm damn tired of it lol (nothing on you of course, just saying). It's extremely common when lifting a vehicle that's has some mileage on it, and yet from what I've seen here almost no mechanic knows it - lots like you who take it to somebody that ends up just as stumped as them. Makes you wonder how much salt they're worth eh?
I appreciate the quick a precise reply.
I’m fairly certain you specifically told me this not that long ago on a different thread, which I found very informative btw, thank you for that. I even told my trans mechanic that and he agreed, so I guess you could say I took your advice and thats why I bought a whole new drive shaft. So, u-joints and everything is brand new—in theory. I didn’t feel too good about the places I found an aftermarket driveshaft, so I ordered OEM from Camelback Toyota in AZ for $391. Which makes me wonder, was I sent a bad driveshaft or am I missing something else?
Devbot
New member
Oh duh yeah sorry I obviously didn't read all the way through lmao. Fwiw I haven't heard good things recently about Toyota's u-joints (nor do I have good experience, had one that was faulty right out the box and even my local driveline shop has been staying clear of them due to complaints) so it would be possible but not entirely likely. Something I would try is to get underneath it and try to wiggle the driveshaft all sorts of directions and listen for any noise whatsoever. You may be like me and have one of your caps not fully seated which will definitely cause the noise you're referring to; if that's the case sometimes they can be a real b*tch to track down, thus the purpose of giving it a sufficiently good wiggle all over. To explain further I have a slight bit of play in ONE cap of the 3 u-joints that's only a few dozen thou (stupidly hard to see with your eyes) and it will ONLY show play/make noise when the driveshaft is pushed on from a very specific point, and in only one direction - pushing literally anywhere else in any other way feels just as solid as ever, but that one spot makes a clunk like clockwork. It would also be a good idea to carefully watch the gap between each cap/joint as you do, sometimes you see things you can't hear
Novice 4Runner
New member
Exhaust Manifold, Water Pump + Other Repairs
Looking for thoughts and advice on what to do wrt a cracked exhaust manifold and some other issues. I'm not mechanically savvy, at all, alas. I wanted to make a thread, but I don't like making pointless posts, so post count isn't climbing.
Anyway, my shop is recommending an exhaust manifold replacement and water valve replacement. I've noticed that the exhaust manifold seems to be a common issue, and that there may be upgrades. Looking for any info/recommendations for that.
Then, is there any other work y'all would recommend to cut down labor costs while that work is being done? Or any engine upgrades or modifications that make sense to do at the same time?
It's a '98 base, manual trans, 3rz with 270k miles. Engine rebuilt around 200k.
Looking for thoughts and advice on what to do wrt a cracked exhaust manifold and some other issues. I'm not mechanically savvy, at all, alas. I wanted to make a thread, but I don't like making pointless posts, so post count isn't climbing.
Anyway, my shop is recommending an exhaust manifold replacement and water valve replacement. I've noticed that the exhaust manifold seems to be a common issue, and that there may be upgrades. Looking for any info/recommendations for that.
Then, is there any other work y'all would recommend to cut down labor costs while that work is being done? Or any engine upgrades or modifications that make sense to do at the same time?
It's a '98 base, manual trans, 3rz with 270k miles. Engine rebuilt around 200k.
Devbot
New member
Really the correct answer is gonna be replace them and there's not really a good macguyver fix for cracked manifolds or headers at such an age; you can try something like exhaust tape or JB Weld but the problem is they get so hot and the metal is so rusted/oxidized now that most band-aids tend to come undone, and rather quickly. High heat epoxy might hold better if the metal is properly sanded and cleaned up around the crack but that's not always possible, you'd have to give it a whirl to find out. But that's just my 2 cents from what I know, there may be a redneck wizard on here that knows better! If you aren't already this exhaust leak is gonna cause a bunch of codes eventually, and probably an unpleasant ride so I would address it with some haste
It's very common to do a full timing belt job when doing the water pump as you'll have everything already accessible, if not removing some worn parts in the process already. A good rule of thumb is aiming to do timing belts/water pumps around every 100k, so you would be pretty close to "due" in that sense but they can obviously last longer OR shorter depending on a litany of variables. It can be a little costly if you're not expecting it and seem like daunting work but you'll spruce up your engine a good bit and it's actually a very straightforward job, not even that long of one with our vehicles. If you're not that "experienced" with a wrench you can always follow along to an instructional video or something - it might go a little slow but you'll get it done, and in the end it'd be faster than bumbling through it blind
Novice 4Runner has a 3RZ so timing chain not a timing belt, and I'm not sure it the water pump on those is run off the chain or an accessory belt or devil magic
Really the only option to fix a cracked exhaust manifold is to replace the exhaust manifold. I'm not very familiar with the 3RZ so what are you calling the " water valve"? Are you referring to the water pump or the valve for the heater core?
I cleaned everything but the same problem persists. Light works with ON setting but not with DOOR (even when other systems in the truck tell me that the doors are open).
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