The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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This is like pulling teeth here... If you had to pick a color from a color wheel or paint chips at your local Lowes/Home Depot, what color would the engine oil and transmission fluid be?


I’m sorry to be a pain or make this hard. It is something I haven’t worked on before and have limited knowledge. It is a pink color, Maybe fuchsia describes it best. Not light but not dark pink.


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Maybe Firestone didn't properly burp the cooling system and that is where your coolant went? Before you begin your day, remove the rad cap and top off the radiator, and fill the rad reservoir to the cold fill line. Then continue to monitor for coolant loss.

If you want to pressure test the system, you could find coolant dribbling from loose clamps through this. Pressure tool could be rented from Autozone (sku-449951, 940427T). Or Orielly (67085).


I have given up on working the system and taken to Firestone since the installed and warranty it. I hope that fixed the idle and will continue to troubleshoot from there if it doesn’t.


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I’m shopping for replacement engines via car-part.com, I’ve got a 1998 4wd, I can swap anything in from 1998-2002 right? Is the only difference between motors going to be with the throttle body?


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I’m shopping for replacement engines via car-part.com, I’ve got a 1998 4wd, I can swap anything in from 1998-2002 right? Is the only difference between motors going to be with the throttle body?


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Don't quote me on this, but I'm pretty sure fuel injectors changed in 99. I would plan on reusing your original harness and injectors/throttle body
 
According to Toyota part numbers, heads are the same for 96-02.
But, for some reason the block is broken down to 5/97-1/99. And 1 /99-...

I don't know what are the differences between the two.
 
Snorkel brand options

Ive been looking up snorkels for 98 my 4runner but all i keep seeing is safari and helix or however its spelled. Anyone know what other brands have snorkels for a 3rd gen? I was hoping to find something more boxed shaped rather than rounded out like that safari one. That one alpha equipt snorkel for the 5th gen looks sick! You guys think it'd be possible to find a way to fit it on a 3rd?
 
Ive been looking up snorkels for 98 my 4runner but all i keep seeing is safari and helix or however its spelled. Anyone know what other brands have snorkels for a 3rd gen? I was hoping to find something more boxed shaped rather than rounded out like that safari one. That one alpha equipt snorkel for the 5th gen looks sick! You guys think it'd be possible to find a way to fit it on a 3rd?
Have you seen this snorkel yet? https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-...snorkel-market-ebay-“arb-safari”-snorkel.html
 
Ive been looking up snorkels for 98 my 4runner but all i keep seeing is safari and helix or however its spelled. Anyone know what other brands have snorkels for a 3rd gen? I was hoping to find something more boxed shaped rather than rounded out like that safari one. That one alpha equipt snorkel for the 5th gen looks sick! You guys think it'd be possible to find a way to fit it on a 3rd?

I know you’re asking for a snorkel other than a Hilux, but this video will likely be helpful no matter which snorkel you end up with:

Hilux 167 Snorkel Install on a 3rd Gen Toyota 4Runner - YouTube
 
I have a 1996 4Runner with 275K on the 3.4. It has never overheated. I have a head gasket leak (you can hear the engine labor as it tries to clear the antifreeze out of the cylinder). This started about 2 years ago, and I've put maybe 100 miles on it since.

My mechanic says if he takes the head off to replace the head gasket, and the head is cracked, then I am stuck. He can't find un-cracked heads.

So before I take the plunge, what are the chances the head is cracked?
 
I have a 1996 4Runner with 275K on the 3.4. It has never overheated. I have a head gasket leak (you can hear the engine labor as it tries to clear the antifreeze out of the cylinder). This started about 2 years ago, and I've put maybe 100 miles on it since.

My mechanic says if he takes the head off to replace the head gasket, and the head is cracked, then I am stuck. He can't find un-cracked heads.

So before I take the plunge, what are the chances the head is cracked?

Anybody's guess, but if it's never overheated then probably very low. If he doesn't think they're warped (again, if it didn't overheat, probably very low chances) then even better. However that's arguably the least of your worries if you're contaminating your oil and running the engine
I have a very hard time believing he can't find any heads anywhere out there, that sounds like quite the stretch. I'm willing to bet he just couldn't find any locally. You could try and find a valvetrain shop nearby and run it by them to see what they say
 
Since this is the "anything goes" thread:

When installing the frame-side of the EimKeith panhard correction bracket, the provided washers go on the *inside* of that bracket with the bushing wedged between them, right?
 
Anybody's guess, but if it's never overheated then probably very low. If he doesn't think they're warped (again, if it didn't overheat, probably very low chances) then even better. However that's arguably the least of your worries if you're contaminating your oil and running the engine
I have a very hard time believing he can't find any heads anywhere out there, that sounds like quite the stretch. I'm willing to bet he just couldn't find any locally. You could try and find a valvetrain shop nearby and run it by them to see what they say

Good point about the oil contamination. I'd be happy to find a used engine and do a swap, but just don't have the time. And you are probably right on the heads and my mechanic. I kinda got the feeling he may not have wanted to project. Thanks again.
 
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1999 limited

Reference emblems:
i know you can remove plastic emblems with fishing line but anyone have thoughts on how to reapply them. I dont want to use a glue or expoxy, does someone make the rubber stuff...thoughts appreciated.
 
Reference emblems:
i know you can remove plastic emblems with fishing line but anyone have thoughts on how to reapply them. I dont want to use a glue or expoxy, does someone make the rubber stuff...thoughts appreciated.

Also wondering this. I believe 3M makes some adhesive specifically for car emblems but to avoid buying a bunch just to use it once I don't see why some small dabs of RTV or the like wouldn't work fine. Haven't tried it myself though, I have a missing badge in the rear and been meaning to try it but haven't had the time to get around to it
 
OK so my tale of woe:
Bought an '02 with OME nitrogen shocks and OME (890?) springs installed in back. They were using it to haul heavy stuff. The combo lifted the back so they merely put spacers on the struts in front to level it off.
Problem number one with the setup was that the front axles came down at an angle and wore thru the outside tread on each tire quite a bit faster than the inside tread. It also rode like a brick.
Thus I broke down and bought some 'OEM' rear springs from NAPA for the rears. Didn't have time to deal with it for a couple years so don't know what brand. Finally had them installed because a CV joint blew a seal in front. Everything was so rusty I decided to let a shop cut and grind and swear. In front they just junked the struts and replaced them with new ones, no spacers. They also replaced the axle on one side.
In back they put on my 'OEM' springs, and also did the ball joints etc. (rusted out) but left the OME nitrogen shocks.
So you can guess what happened. The back started to sag and after about a month it is noticeably lower. Probably moogs, don't know.
Thus I would like to fix the sag. One thought is to put a spacer on top.
So, how big a deal would it be to put on a spacer? I want to go the cheapest route DIY. I have a pair of spring compressors so am thinking to clamp a spring, lower the vehicle, pop in the spacer, then raise the vehicle. Repeat for the other side.
Don't know if the shocks can be adjusted with some nitrogen or not instead?
I am worried that aside from the annoying tilt that the drive shaft might hit something as well?
Any advice would be appreciated.
 
OK so my tale of woe:
Bought an '02 with OME nitrogen shocks and OME (890?) springs installed in back. They were using it to haul heavy stuff. The combo lifted the back so they merely put spacers on the struts in front to level it off.
Problem number one with the setup was that the front axles came down at an angle and wore thru the outside tread on each tire quite a bit faster than the inside tread. It also rode like a brick.
Thus I broke down and bought some 'OEM' rear springs from NAPA for the rears. Didn't have time to deal with it for a couple years so don't know what brand. Finally had them installed because a CV joint blew a seal in front. Everything was so rusty I decided to let a shop cut and grind and swear. In front they just junked the struts and replaced them with new ones, no spacers. They also replaced the axle on one side.
In back they put on my 'OEM' springs, and also did the ball joints etc. (rusted out) but left the OME nitrogen shocks.
So you can guess what happened. The back started to sag and after about a month it is noticeably lower. Probably moogs, don't know.
Thus I would like to fix the sag. One thought is to put a spacer on top.
So, how big a deal would it be to put on a spacer? I want to go the cheapest route DIY. I have a pair of spring compressors so am thinking to clamp a spring, lower the vehicle, pop in the spacer, then raise the vehicle. Repeat for the other side.
Don't know if the shocks can be adjusted with some nitrogen or not instead?
I am worried that aside from the annoying tilt that the drive shaft might hit something as well?
Any advice would be appreciated.

5th Gen 4runner take off springs are pretty cheap on CL. post up on wtb thread in this forum may be some one has got some from when they upgraded,
 
5th Gen 4runner take off springs are pretty cheap on CL. post up on wtb thread in this forum may be some one has got some from when they upgraded,
That would be a good option if I didn't have brand new powder coated springs with no rust. Gonna sell the OME 890's though if anybody's interested.

Looked around and saw some spacers < $50. Some questions I would have:
1. The instructions essentially say 'jack up the car, unbolt the shocks and pan hard bar, and put them in'. There is no mention of removing parking brake brackets or pushing one side down with the jack or using spring compressors. Is this realistic?
2. The spacers go around the bump-stop rather than on top of it. This shortens the length of the bump stop inside the spring. Will this allow the axle to hit a skid plate or something?
3. Will the axle hit something in the current setup (soft spring, no spacer), or will the bump stop prevent that?
 
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