The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[spartacus]

That would be a good option if I didn't have brand new powder coated springs with no rust. Gonna sell the OME 890's though if anybody's interested.

Looked around and saw some spacers < $50. Some questions I would have:
1. The instructions essentially say 'jack up the car, unbolt the shocks and pan hard bar, and put them in'. There is no mention of removing parking brake brackets or pushing one side down with the jack or using spring compressors. Is this realistic?
2. The spacers go around the bump-stop rather than on top of it. This shortens the length of the bump stop inside the spring. Will this allow the axle to hit a skid plate or something?
3. Will the axle hit something in the current setup (soft spring, no spacer), or will the bump stop prevent that?

The spacers will sit on top of the cone lip inside the rear spring,The rear bump stops hit the rear axle when bottoming out. They are on the outside of the spring on either side. I have installed springs without taking out or loosening the panhard bar. You can undo the parking brake bracket, rear bottom shock bolt rear sway bar links and keep an eye on the rear brake line, as not to stretch it.
Here is a link. Will give you a better idea. It's the last 3rd of the video.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0HJx6HH2yno" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

also
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/t015bRXd0QE" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[5th4runner]

My spacers are cylinders that surround the bump stops on top of the springs. They actually extend the springs on top. The bump stops are cones that fit inside the spring on top and hit the axle if the spring gets too short.

 

[2002goldie]

May as well post here... My newly-acquired 2002 4runner sr5 (yet has factory leather/chrome, go figure!)

The wheels are Toyota (4th gen, I believe; crudely painted black, I know...) 17 inchers with 265/65r17 Kumho Crugen all-season.

My question is... Will 255/75r17 fit without any rubbing up/down? I believe, yes.

No rubbing as she sits now (highway mostly, with some beach driving, no off-road flexing stuff). And appears to have more than enough room to add an inch or two of diameter.

The new size would be narrower than present, so the only increase would be EVER so slightly in overall diameter.

I'm thinking it'd be no problem, but what say you fine folks?

Thanks!

 

[Bad Luck]

My spacers are cylinders that surround the bump stops on top of the springs. They actually extend the springs on top. The bump stops are cones that fit inside the spring on top and hit the axle if the spring gets too short.

The rear bump stops are located on the rear frame as seen in this picture: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/1286499-post1.html The cone bumper in the spring is a softer rubber than the frame bumpstop and meant to act as a cushion to slow the axle down some before contacting the stiffer/harder frame bumpstop. The cone bumper in the spring isn't entirely necessary and can be removed or trimmed as needed, but should not cause a problem if the spacer is placed between the spring and the cone.

 

[Endlessblockades]

May as well post here... My newly-acquired 2002 4runner sr5 (yet has factory leather/chrome, go figure!)

The wheels are Toyota (4th gen, I believe; crudely painted black, I know...) 17 inchers with 265/65r17 Kumho Crugen all-season.

My question is... Will 255/75r17 fit without any rubbing up/down? I believe, yes.

No rubbing as she sits now (highway mostly, with some beach driving, no off-road flexing stuff). And appears to have more than enough room to add an inch or two of diameter.

The new size would be narrower than present, so the only increase would be EVER so slightly in overall diameter.

I'm thinking it'd be no problem, but what say you fine folks?

Thanks!

I'm no expert but roughly calculated, the bigger size is about +1.5" in diameter and about .5" narrower, so you could visually add about .75" to the current tire where it comes closest to the fender/well while cycling lock-to-lock to get an idea of fit. Shouldn't have any UCA/spring clearance issues as you said. I'm not sure how to pre-calculate rubbing under suspension compression, however, but you say you don't expect to flex much. Not sure how you be able to resist hitting some trails though.......

 

[5th4runner]

The rear bump stops are located on the rear frame as seen in this picture: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/1286499-post1.html The cone bumper in the spring is a softer rubber than the frame bumpstop and meant to act as a cushion to slow the axle down some before contacting the stiffer/harder frame bumpstop. The cone bumper in the spring isn't entirely necessary and can be removed or trimmed as needed, but should not cause a problem if the spacer is placed between the spring and the cone.

Hmmm, that is interesting. The external bump stop you show should work then. The spacers are installed by pulling the cone out of the spring, inserting the cone into the spacers, then inserting the remaining cone into the spring. This adds a couple inches to the length of the spring, lifting the rear.

 

[2002goldie]

I'm no expert but roughly calculated, the bigger size is about +1.5" in diameter and about .5" narrower, so you could visually add about .75" to the current tire where it comes closest to the fender/well while cycling lock-to-lock to get an idea of fit. Shouldn't have any UCA/spring clearance issues as you said. I'm not sure how to pre-calculate rubbing under suspension compression, however, but you say you don't expect to flex much. Not sure how you be able to resist hitting some trails though.......

Easily!! Closest legal/public land trails are 3hrs from home

Thanks for the reply!

 

[ehnat36]

3rd gen exhaust issue

Alright. This is my first post on here so be easy on me. I have a 3rd gen 99 4runner 2.7 liter. My tailpipe has now been “removed” from the main exhaust system for the 4th time now after owning it for 7 years. It’s been welded and rewelded on, and I think it’s time for a new base exhaust system. Has anyone had to do this? Did you DIY? Brought it into a muffler place? Avg cost? Trying to figure out what the avg cost could be (I am not a rich person) and how long I can go with the tailpipe secured w/ wire onto the frame (I know there are issues w idling/CO issues!) TIA!

 

[Endlessblockades]

Alright. This is my first post on here so be easy on me. I have a 3rd gen 99 4runner 2.7 liter. My tailpipe has now been “removed” from the main exhaust system for the 4th time now after owning it for 7 years. It’s been welded and rewelded on, and I think it’s time for a new base exhaust system. Has anyone had to do this? Did you DIY? Brought it into a muffler place? Avg cost? Trying to figure out what the avg cost could be (I am not a rich person) and how long I can go with the tailpipe secured w/ wire onto the frame (I know there are issues w idling/CO issues!) TIA!

A good resource is the Search function. Scroll down the results a bit and you'll find lots of threads on the forum about cost-effective exhaust. Sounds like you should probably replace everything behind your Cat if it's original.

For example:

Best cost option for new cat-back exhaust system?

 

[jcmb45678]

I am looking to lift my third-gen 4runner 3in. Does anyone know an estimate of the cost of labor for this typically?

 

[spartacus]

I am looking to lift my third-gen 4runner 3in. Does anyone know an estimate of the cost of labor for this typically?

About $800 around here. More if you get the uca and diff drop.
Or $0.00 dollars if you do it your self.
ToyTec Boss Complete Suspension Lift Installation - YouTube

 

[JoeT4R]

Alright, after extensive reading through threads I’ve come to a certain idea for a conclusion but would also like to get other input.

My 01 with 305K on the clock exhibits this sort of “jumping” or “skipping” when around 50 mph, going up hill or just after driving for an extended period of time, like road trips especially. The info I’ve gathered is that it’s either related to plugs or coil packs. I replaced my plugs less than 30K ago, and I’ve got Denso plugs with Denso wires in there, so I’d like to think that isn’t my issue. But I’m curious about my coil packs. Still on the original Toyota/Denso ones. $150 for 3 new ones, not horrible but I’d rather not spend that if it isn’t needed. Any ideas?

 

[Devbot]

Alright, after extensive reading through threads I’ve come to a certain idea for a conclusion but would also like to get other input.

My 01 with 305K on the clock exhibits this sort of “jumping” or “skipping” when around 50 mph, going up hill or just after driving for an extended period of time, like road trips especially. The info I’ve gathered is that it’s either related to plugs or coil packs. I replaced my plugs less than 30K ago, and I’ve got Denso plugs with Denso wires in there, so I’d like to think that isn’t my issue. But I’m curious about my coil packs. Still on the original Toyota/Denso ones. $150 for 3 new ones, not horrible but I’d rather not spend that if it isn’t needed. Any ideas?

You know those are supposed to be replaced with spark plugs, right? :laugh::laugh: You're well overdue

 

[tpelletier]

2002 4R limited.

whats the low down with lower ball joints ?

Are you supposed to change them asap like a recall or after a certain number of miles ? is rockauto the place to go for this ?

also anyone know what kind of computer you need to read the engine light codes ?

 

[spartacus]

Alright, after extensive reading through threads I’ve come to a certain idea for a conclusion but would also like to get other input.

My 01 with 305K on the clock exhibits this sort of “jumping” or “skipping” when around 50 mph, going up hill or just after driving for an extended period of time, like road trips especially. The info I’ve gathered is that it’s either related to plugs or coil packs. I replaced my plugs less than 30K ago, and I’ve got Denso plugs with Denso wires in there, so I’d like to think that isn’t my issue. But I’m curious about my coil packs. Still on the original Toyota/Denso ones. $150 for 3 new ones, not horrible but I’d rather not spend that if it isn’t needed. Any ideas?

Take the plugs out and check their condition. Are tips worn covered in carbon etc. the gaps are good. Check the coil boots they might be worn causing a short at the block check the coil pack resistance Resistance
primary cold 0.67 - 1.05 Ω
Hot 0.85 - 1.23 Ω
seccndary cold.9.3 -16.0 kΩ
Hot 11.7 - 18.8 kΩ

 

[spartacus]

2002 4R limited.

whats the low down with lower ball joints ?

Are you supposed to change them asap like a recall or after a certain number of miles ? is rockauto the place to go for this ?

also anyone know what kind of computer you need to read the engine light codes ?

LBJ replacement every 100k or so miles or so, sooner if you off road. I've gone longer but I check for play every so often.
Oem from a dealer. lot of fake oems out there on ebay etc. There are dealers online that you can get two for around $200 but they don't come with a new Castle nut or cotter pin. If you buy them individually they come with castle nut and cotter pin but are little more money. Also order the right bolts for your year.
If you don't have the rubber dust cover, 8 flange head bolts torque 59ft lbs
If you do have the dust covers, 8 bolts with washers torque 37ft lbs.
Buy any decent Obd-II scanner then download Torque app on your phone or tablet and connect it via blue tooth.

 

[Devbot]

Would upgraded injectors help with leaning out at higher rpms, or is the only solutions adding a 7th?

 

[5th4runner]

The rear bump stops are located on the rear frame as seen in this picture: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/1286499-post1.html The cone bumper in the spring is a softer rubber than the frame bumpstop and meant to act as a cushion to slow the axle down some before contacting the stiffer/harder frame bumpstop. The cone bumper in the spring isn't entirely necessary and can be removed or trimmed as needed, but should not cause a problem if the spacer is placed between the spring and the cone.

Thanks everybody for the help. Results are in:
Used this spacer:
kt09107bk | Rear Leveling Kit -1-1/2 in | 4Runner 96-02| Daystar $42/set new.
Using these instructions:
https://www.daystarsuspensionparts.com/installation_instructions/daystar/p10503.pdf
Added the step of unbolting the parking brake cable bracket.
Forgot to unbolt the pan-hard bar on the driver's side. That made life difficult.
In addition to the floor jack it took the stock screw jack and a (small) bottle jack to adjust the axle up and or down on each side to jockey the springs.
The jack stand on the fuel tank side was a bit iffy (no room to straddle the frame, had to turn 90 deg.) so left the floor jack on the hitch beam at all times. It took a 4X6 on edge on the floor jack to lift the wheels off the ground from back there.
Took less than 3 hours including finding all the tools. What really helped was squirting penetrant into all threads a few days before, then loosening the bolts the day before without jacking up the vehicle. Took an impact wrench as things are rusty.
Everything went back in with a lot of waterproof moly grease.
Gave a bit less than the advertised 1.5" lift, didn't measure exactly.

 

[tpelletier]

LBJ replacement every 100k or so miles or so, sooner if you off road. I've gone longer but I check for play every so often.
Oem from a dealer. lot of fake oems out there on ebay etc. There are dealers online that you can get two for around $200 but they don't come with a new Castle nut or cotter pin. If you buy them individually they come with castle nut and cotter pin but are little more money. Also order the right bolts for your year.
If you don't have the rubber dust cover, 8 flange head bolts torque 59ft lbs
If you do have the dust covers, 8 bolts with washers torque 37ft lbs.
Buy any decent Obd-II scanner then download Torque app on your phone or tablet and connect it via blue tooth.

Thanks !

Also are LBJ only in the front or also in the rear ?
Are the front ones the only ones of concern ?

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Thanks !

Also are LBJ only in the front or also in the rear ?
Are the front ones the only ones of concern ?

Just the front .