The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[Cargo Cult]

Does anyone know the part number for the small rubber boot on the underside of the automatic transmission shift assembly? The one that goes around the metal bar linking the shifter to the transmission. Photos attached. Thanks!
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
Imgur: The magic of the Internet

 

[cl4Rk]

Does anyone know the part number for the small rubber boot on the underside of the automatic transmission shift assembly? The one that goes around the metal bar linking the shifter to the transmission. Photos attached. Thanks!
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
Imgur: The magic of the Internet

This has part numbers in the video but also the description:

Auto Trans Shifter Bushing Replacement & Transfer Case Shifter Seat Replacement (3rd Gen 4runner) - YouTube

 

[Riceye]

Does anyone know the part number for the small rubber boot on the underside of the automatic transmission shift assembly? The one that goes around the metal bar linking the shifter to the transmission. Photos attached. Thanks!
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
Imgur: The magic of the Internet

Can you find the part and number on this page?
partsouq.com

 

[queens770]

Getting the infamous ABS, brake, VSV and Traction Control lights on the dashboard in my 02. Weird thing is, I only get the long beep sound when stopping (sometimes) like when I’m about to turn into my complex. Replaced the gas cap not that, this all started when I just started my vehicle to work on something because I didn’t want the battery to die with all the lights on. I wasn’t even driving. Drives fine, nothing else out of ordinary. Disconnected negative for 12 hours, disconnected positive as well. NO CODES being thrown at all. Don’t know if it’s a glitch or a short possibly. Been through damn near all these threads, brakes work fine, spoiler brake light works fine, next step I guess is checking the traction control sensors. IDK, any advice would be helpful. 2WD SR5 ‘02

 

[Skulking]

Getting the infamous ABS, brake, VSV and Traction Control lights on the dashboard in my 02. Weird thing is, I only get the long beep sound when stopping (sometimes) like when I’m about to turn into my complex. Replaced the gas cap not that, this all started when I just started my vehicle to work on something because I didn’t want the battery to die with all the lights on. I wasn’t even driving. Drives fine, nothing else out of ordinary. Disconnected negative for 12 hours, disconnected positive as well. NO CODES being thrown at all. Don’t know if it’s a glitch or a short possibly. Been through damn near all these threads, brakes work fine, spoiler brake light works fine, next step I guess is checking the traction control sensors. IDK, any advice would be helpful. 2WD SR5 ‘02

ABS codes won't show up on the OBDII reader. You need to pull them separately. Post 7 in this thread covers pulling ABS codes and what they are. Let us know what codes you have and we can help from there.

 

[Shadco]

I’ll try posting this here. The 15 post rule keeps me from starting a thread about this and I’m not the kind of guy that will make a bunch of useless posts to get to 15.

If I lock the car with the fob and unlock shortly after everything works as it should, first press unlocks drivers door, second all doors.

if I leave the truck for a few minutes and unlock with the fob the alarm goes off and I have to use the key to stop it.

I have 2 fobs programmed and both behave the same way.

It was suggested elsewhere that perhaps the battery was week but that isn’t the case as I replaced it with a new one.

Anyone have any ideas?

2000 Limited with multi mode and 3.4 V6 175K miles.


.

 

[Bad Luck]

I’ll try posting this here. The 15 post rule keeps me from starting a thread about this and I’m not the kind of guy that will make a bunch of useless posts to get to 15.

If I lock the car with the fob and unlock shortly after everything works as it should, first press unlocks drivers door, second all doors.

if I leave the truck for a few minutes and unlock with the fob the alarm goes off and I have to use the key to stop it.

I have 2 fobs programmed and both behave the same way.

It was suggested elsewhere that perhaps the battery was week but that isn’t the case as I replaced it with a new one.

Anyone have any ideas?

.

I really appreciate you not making a bunch of pointless posts in order to get your count up. Lots of folks resort to useless necromancy on old and dead posts to get to 15 posts and it's annoying to me.

But to your problem, I would first check inside the rubber boot between the rear body and the rear hatch. The wiring in there gets frayed/cracked/broken after years of opening and closing and can cause some weird things. If you have an OEM remote lock/unlock system then the brains/control module are in the rear hatch. It might also be helpful for anyone else looking to help if we knew your year/engine/transmission/2 or 4 wheel drive/trim package (base/SR5/Limited). It may make a huge difference or it might not.

Any other electrical gremlins/problems?
You do have the OEM remote system, correct?

 

[Shadco]

Thanks for the suggestion added info to OP.

.

 

[Bad Luck]

I'm looking for some confirmation here. I have a 2000 v6/manual/4wd and when I shift the transfer case into 4 low the ABS still functions. Is that normal? For some reason I thought 4 low disabled the ABS and illuminated the ABS light on the instrument cluster.

 

[cl4Rk]

I'm looking for some confirmation here. I have a 2000 v6/manual/4wd and when I shift the transfer case into 4 low the ABS still functions. Is that normal? For some reason I thought 4 low disabled the ABS and illuminated the ABS light on the instrument cluster.

I have a 2000/v6/4WD auto, so maybe not apples to apples, but I had it in my mind that ABS was still on in 4LO, but would turn off during locker engagement. (I don’t have an e-locker (yet…) either, so take this with a grain of salt.)

 

[Shadco]

I really appreciate you not making a bunch of pointless posts in order to get your count up. Lots of folks resort to useless necromancy on old and dead posts to get to 15 posts and it's annoying to me.

But to your problem, I would first check inside the rubber boot between the rear body and the rear hatch. The wiring in there gets frayed/cracked/broken after years of opening and closing and can cause some weird things. If you have an OEM remote lock/unlock system then the brains/control module are in the rear hatch. It might also be helpful for anyone else looking to help if we knew your year/engine/transmission/2 or 4 wheel drive/trim package (base/SR5/Limited). It may make a huge difference or it might not.

Any other electrical gremlins/problems?
You do have the OEM remote system, correct?

So after reading the alarm portion of the manual I think the issues is that the alarm arms after 30 seconds and for some reason when I use the fob it thinks I’m forcing the lock on the door.

.

 

[srq-dalton]

Please help

So I was doing a LED Light conversion on my dash today. Got everything buttoned up and it looks great. But then I noticed that my gas gauge was at 0 and my gas light was on! took It back apart and everything looked good. (I have a full tank but its still reading as 0). What should I do???

PLEASE HELP

 

[srq-dalton]

Pls help

So I was doing a LED Light conversion on my dash today. Got everything buttoned up and it looks great. But then I noticed that my gas gauge was at 0 and my gas light was on! took It back apart and everything looked good. (I have a full tank but its still reading as 0). What should I do??? Im not good with car electronics

PLEASE HELP

 

[Skulking]

So I was doing a LED Light conversion on my dash today. Got everything buttoned up and it looks great. But then I noticed that my gas gauge was at 0 and my gas light was on! took It back apart and everything looked good. (I have a full tank but its still reading as 0). What should I do???

PLEASE HELP

What year is your 4Runner?

The first thing to do is look over what else isn't working. It's possible that your fuel sender happened to die while you were doing this, but it is more likely that something hasn't actually been reconnected properly, or that something was damaged. If one of the plugs isn't fully seated, there should be something else out as well. On my 2000, I'd be looking at thing like does the speedometer work, does the ABS light light up/ turn off at the appropriate times during startup, and does the door open light come on since those are on the same connector as the fuel gauge.

 

[jcmb45678]

Hey yall, I went to start my 01 this morning it would not start. I at first suspected a dead battery I proceeded to jump the car and clean battery posts no luck. All lights come on but it sounds like there's a clicking noise when I crank it. Any suggestions on what is wrong?

 

[Brian.]

Hey yall, I went to start my 01 this morning it would not start. I at first suspected a dead battery I proceeded to jump the car and clean battery posts no luck. All lights come on but it sounds like there's a clicking noise when I crank it. Any suggestions on what is wrong?

If it's not the battery (verify that with a multimeter, you need more than 11vdc while actively trying to start, batteries can fail in a way that they show 12v+ under no load), then it's the starter. Common enough, easy DIY brush replacement but you can "test" by tapping the starter while someone tries to start. Usually this will get it cranking and is a good verification.

 

[stombox1791]

Is this a southeast 4Runner?

I emailed a guy about a 3rd gen today. He sent the attached pictures. A couple of quick questions:

1. Is this a southern car, or does it look like it's been up north in the salt?

2. Is there enough rust to be worried about it?


Thanks!

 

[Brian.]

I emailed a guy about a 3rd gen today. He sent the attached pictures. A couple of quick questions:

1. Is this a southern car, or does it look like it's been up north in the salt?

2. Is there enough rust to be worried about it?


Thanks!

Not a ton of visible rust, but more than my TN 4runner. Sadly, it's the inside parts that tend to be the worst, and those aren't pictured. And especially the one that's right next to the exhaust (pass side), the heat makes that the single worst place.

 

[Devbot]

I emailed a guy about a 3rd gen today. He sent the attached pictures. A couple of quick questions:

1. Is this a southern car, or does it look like it's been up north in the salt?

2. Is there enough rust to be worried about it?


Thanks!

I'd be hesitant to say it lived in salt, but I'd also be hesitant to say it's a southern car, they typically hold up pretty well. Could be very coastal I suppose, salt from the sea air will rust cars as well. Either way I am but a simple yank and a good ol boy will have to chime in for a definitive answer
Definitely not too much rust, rust will almost always start on weld seams before spreading out so realistically it's in a fairly good place to try and save. But like Brian said the inside of the frame can be way worse than the outside so I would definitely take a peek. However I think many of the salt belters here would agree in so far so good

 

[cl4Rk]

2. Is there enough rust to be worried about it?

Looks mostly surface. But I’d still want to bang on things with a hammer and see if you can push a screwdriver through any of the weld seams.

IMO you really need to get eyes (and hammer or screwdriver) on the INBOARD side of those lower trailing arm mounts.

Best of luck!