The bulb is part of the charging circuit, and if the bulb has been swapped to an LED that can cause the light to stay on at all times.
The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
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The bulb is part of the charging circuit, and if the bulb has been swapped to an LED that can cause the light to stay on at all times.
fatherohenry
Member
I don't know what I don't know about vacuum. This is probably something obvious but I'm not sure where to start. Apologies if this is way too much information. '96 4x4 auto.
I pulled out the old Android today to check the numbers and noticed the vacuum was reading as a negative number.
I read in this post that it should read -20 at idle (basically sea level in Sacramento) but that doesn't explain the positive reading in earlier pictures (from 6 different dates in the past 8 months). I've read other posts where it's suggested the number should be 17-21 with no mention of negative values. But I suppose that's with a real vacuum gauge, not Torque (ordered a gauge, arrives later today). I realize that side of the gauge has negative numbers. Is it possible the Torque app just never showed the negative sign before for some reason?
I checked all my old images and it's always been positive - like these from when I switched my jiggle valve from 12 - 6 o'clock:
The only thing I can think of that changed was that I cleaned the throttle body when I did the valve cover gaskets last month.
Could it have something to do with this gap? Should I even be able to see light through there? From the posts I've read I was under the impression that was kosher.
I drove from Sacramento to Portland and back after the VCG job and didn't have any issues (that I'm aware of!). Managed about 19.5mpg with 2 adults, fully loaded. I imagine if I'd hooked something up backwards I would have noticed.
Thanks for helping out this dumbass again!
I pulled out the old Android today to check the numbers and noticed the vacuum was reading as a negative number.
I read in this post that it should read -20 at idle (basically sea level in Sacramento) but that doesn't explain the positive reading in earlier pictures (from 6 different dates in the past 8 months). I've read other posts where it's suggested the number should be 17-21 with no mention of negative values. But I suppose that's with a real vacuum gauge, not Torque (ordered a gauge, arrives later today). I realize that side of the gauge has negative numbers. Is it possible the Torque app just never showed the negative sign before for some reason?
I checked all my old images and it's always been positive - like these from when I switched my jiggle valve from 12 - 6 o'clock:
The only thing I can think of that changed was that I cleaned the throttle body when I did the valve cover gaskets last month.
Could it have something to do with this gap? Should I even be able to see light through there? From the posts I've read I was under the impression that was kosher.
I drove from Sacramento to Portland and back after the VCG job and didn't have any issues (that I'm aware of!). Managed about 19.5mpg with 2 adults, fully loaded. I imagine if I'd hooked something up backwards I would have noticed.
Thanks for helping out this dumbass again!
It may not have had space to show the negative symbol when the number was in the -20's. Either way, if you ignore the number in the center and look at the analog side of it all the pictures shown are on the negative side of the gauge (the right side). +20 in/hg is about 9 psi so unless you installed a supercharger and pulley you aren't going to ever have that reading.
Definitely not common and should not still be leaking. I'm assuming that it was cleaned off thoroughly after each repair
spartacus
Senior Member
I really hope you're being serious, that'd be hilariously outrageous if soound: Even less intuitive than battery+brake=no alternator
I mis wrote. If the brake light was also on that would indicate that there is an alternator issue.
spartacus
Senior Member
With the motor running the battery terminals should be at 14-15V. With motor off Check battery to see if it is going down--should be 12V-12.5+V with engine off. Also check alternator fusible link in engine junction box.
Shakey Brakey
Hello all!
I've got a quick question for you. Recently, I've been noticing some shakiness when braking in my 2000 4Runner. It's like the car is stopping and starting, jolting forward as I brake. A few months ago, as I was coming down a mountain pass, my brakes were doing the same thing and I had to fully stand on the pedal to get it to slow down. My assumption is that this is due to ancient pads and rotors...
Which brings me to my next question(s): 1.) How hard of a job is that? Can I replace them in my driveway? and 2.) Are there any rotors & pads you folks would recommend? I see a lot online and don't really know what "quality" is.
YES, I do know about the Tundra upgrade. Currently, and possibly naively, I don't really see the point in that. My truck isn't lifted, no giant tires, no heavy bumper, etc. However, I may be missing the point entirely, so please do fill me in if that's the case.
Thanks so much for your help! As I've mentioned in here before, this truck is the first vehicle I've owned and I've loved learning how to work on it along the way.
Cheers!
Pete
Hello all!
I've got a quick question for you. Recently, I've been noticing some shakiness when braking in my 2000 4Runner. It's like the car is stopping and starting, jolting forward as I brake. A few months ago, as I was coming down a mountain pass, my brakes were doing the same thing and I had to fully stand on the pedal to get it to slow down. My assumption is that this is due to ancient pads and rotors...
Which brings me to my next question(s): 1.) How hard of a job is that? Can I replace them in my driveway? and 2.) Are there any rotors & pads you folks would recommend? I see a lot online and don't really know what "quality" is.
YES, I do know about the Tundra upgrade. Currently, and possibly naively, I don't really see the point in that. My truck isn't lifted, no giant tires, no heavy bumper, etc. However, I may be missing the point entirely, so please do fill me in if that's the case.
Thanks so much for your help! As I've mentioned in here before, this truck is the first vehicle I've owned and I've loved learning how to work on it along the way.
Cheers!
Pete
spartacus
Senior Member
O'Reilly' s can check your charging system and tell you if the alternator is good also if the battery is being discharged which triggers the light on the dash. They can also tell you if you have a bleed off on the charging line.
spartacus
Senior Member
It's fairly easy. lots of threads on the forum discussing pads and rotors.
Brake Pad/Rotor Recommendations
Here is a video.
Disk Brake Service - YouTube
The front brakes are pretty straight forward. The rear brakes require a little more time/skill. Stock brakes are fine for stock vehicles in my opinion.
Judging by your description it sounds like you may have a problem with rear brakes rather than front brakes. Typically rear brakes out of round/warped will cause a lurching forward/backward sensation and out of round/warped front brakes will cause the steering wheel to shake when braking. A good way to isolate your issue is to drive around 40-50 mph, hold the hand brake release button and pull the hand brake. If you get a vibration then the problem is with your rear brakes. If you press the brake pedal and the steering wheel shakes then you have a problem with the front brakes.
It's always a good idea to check the rear brakes to see if they are wet before replacing the rear brakes. If they are wet then you will need to replace the rear axle seals before fixing the rear brakes otherwise you will continue to have bad rear brakes. Either remove the wheel and drum off the back axle and inspect your brake shoes or remove the rear wheel speed sensors and look at the tone ring through the hole where the rear wheel speed sensors go. If you spin the wheel/axle while watching the tone ring and it's wet then that confirms you have a bad axle seal.
Probably more info than you wanted, but it's there if you want it. Let me know if you have any questions.
fatherohenry
Member
What threw me for a loop was the negative display. That phone lives in the car with no wi-fi or cell service so the app didn't update. I figured something else must have changed which of course means I did something wrong. Oh well. I'll get back to learning about the vacuum system in the 5VZ-FE. Thanks!
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Alstyn
New member
1999 Limited heat wont work?
I just purchased a 1999 4Runner limited last month and I've had some issues getting the heat to work. At first I just thought it was the digital climate control because none of the knobs or buttons would change the display or output of cold air. I shipped it off through eBay to be refurbed.
I finally got it back and its been fixed and is fully functional, however when you set it to "HOT" it's still blowing freezing air. I think it may be a problem with a blend door actuator but don't know how to check, where to find it, where to buy it if a replacement is needed. any ideas or suggestions?
I just purchased a 1999 4Runner limited last month and I've had some issues getting the heat to work. At first I just thought it was the digital climate control because none of the knobs or buttons would change the display or output of cold air. I shipped it off through eBay to be refurbed.
I finally got it back and its been fixed and is fully functional, however when you set it to "HOT" it's still blowing freezing air. I think it may be a problem with a blend door actuator but don't know how to check, where to find it, where to buy it if a replacement is needed. any ideas or suggestions?
Brian.
Member
My gut instinct is that you have a clogged heater core and need a coolant flush (probably a power flush). Next thought is that if you need that, you're probably on borrowed time with the radiator and transmission. Radiator is #1 killer of the transmissions and one of the top 2 reasons why 4runners die (lower ball joints failing being the other reason).
All sorts of videos out there on how to flush your cooling system yourself, and this is what I'm talking about for a power flush ~ Amazon.com: OTC 6043 Blast-Vac Multipurpose Cleaning Gun : Automotive
But it could be that the seller simply disconnected the heater core because it was clogged or leaking and they didn't want to bother with fixing it for a sale. So you'd need to check that too.... Good luck!
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Did you confirm that the heater valve opens when set to heat? No hot water => no heat.
Alstyn
New member
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He did mention that the radiator was just replaced, is it possible it didn't get reconnected? car runs and drives fine.
Alstyn
New member
Alstyn
New member
you've solved it! Heater valve is stuck or non functioning. Moved the arm myself and heat came!:thanks:
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Awesome! :welcome:
MelodyRad
New member
I already did this and told me that both the battery and alternator are healthy. they are new. but didnt mention anything about bleeding of charge line.
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