The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[fatherohenry]

If the bearings are good, no grinding, no noise and no excessive play, then just go for the seal replacement.

Thanks! I've only used that bent-arm Lisle puller for crank and cam seals. Think the larger Lisle seal puller (that I already own) would suffice or would a slide hammer be a better choice?

 

[octanejunkie]

Thanks! I've only used that bent-arm Lisle puller for crank and cam seals. Think the larger Lisle seal puller (that I already own) would suffice or would a slide hammer be a better choice?

I think either tool could potentially work if used right.

Have you watched the Timmy the Toolman video on wheel bearings?

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[fatherohenry]

I think either tool could potentially work if used right.

Have you watched the Timmy the Toolman video on wheel bearings?

Thanks again. Yep, I've watched that and the manual hub swap video. I should just replace the seal before I talk myself into doing the wheel bearings for the sake of doing them since I've done so much else up front. I mean what the hell, it's only three tanks of gas, right?

 

[octanejunkie]

Thanks again. Yep, I've watched that and the manual hub swap video. I should just replace the seal before I talk myself into doing the wheel bearings for the sake of doing them since I've done so much else up front. I mean what the hell, it's only three tanks of gas, right?

Three tanks of gas, ten hail marys and five our fathers

 

[fatherohenry]

Three tanks of gas, ten hail marys and five our fathers

It's been 4 decades since my last confession. But Toyota tithing has become a part of my life.

 

[azmanny]

Hey all, any aftermarket hitch i can bolt on like this picture? Not my picture. It’s a curt bumper but i’m not sure the model or if he welded it on.

No welding capability at the moment

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

 

[Bad Luck]

Hey all, any aftermarket hitch i can bolt on like this picture? Not my picture. It’s a curt bumper but i’m not sure the model or if he welded it on.

No welding capability at the moment

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

Not with that much clearance. The one in the photo looks like a custom one made for high clearance without running the rear bumper. All the bolt on ones you will find bolt on to the bottom of the frame rails so the receiver will be low enough to clear the oem rear bumper.

 

[jman11788]

Just finished a new oem (seiken) brake booster install and noticed the air is gone and brake pedal is much firmer however it feels like there is less power assist than there was before.

 

[Cali-desert]

Tundra springs

Heys guys! I just got what I thought were the yellow/yellow and yellow/blue springs but turns out they are red/yellow and red/blue. Anybody know if I can use them or not? I’m thinking they are from a crew cab not access cab so they are stiffer maybe… I appreciate any help!

 

[fatherohenry]

Reboot or Replace?

While changing my oil today I noticed grease from the left CV boot. I suspect it's from manual rotation when putting the knuckle back in a couple days ago, like I disturbed something. I noticed a smaller amount of grease last June when replacing rack and sway bar bushings. This is the first grease I've seen since and it's much worse.

It's not lifted and only sees pavement.

I'm trying to decide between rebooting and simply replacing the CV axles. Front end feels great. No popping noises or anything. I have nothing to compare it to but I've read that if the axle was bad, I'd know.

Local dealership wants $145 + $75 core or $53 for the reboot kit. Either way I assume it's good practice to do both sides.

My concern is parts availability if I wait until I actually have to replace the axles. It's "sort of" a DD as I've only put 50k miles on it since I bought it 10 years ago. Heck, at the rate I drive I don't have to do another timing belt job until 2042 and aircabinman's kids could be selling those kits for $2300!

 

[Bad Luck]

While changing my oil today I noticed grease from the left CV boot. I suspect it's from manual rotation when putting the knuckle back in a couple days ago, like I disturbed something. I noticed a smaller amount of grease last June when replacing rack and sway bar bushings. This is the first grease I've seen since and it's much worse.

It's not lifted and only sees pavement.

I'm trying to decide between rebooting and simply replacing the CV axles. Front end feels great. No popping noises or anything. I have nothing to compare it to but I've read that if the axle was bad, I'd know.

Local dealership wants $145 + $75 core or $53 for the reboot kit. Either way I assume it's good practice to do both sides.

My concern is parts availability if I wait until I actually have to replace the axles. It's "sort of" a DD as I've only put 50k miles on it since I bought it 10 years ago. Heck, at the rate I drive I don't have to do another timing belt job until 2042 and aircabinman's kids could be selling those kits for $2300!

If you have the time I would do a reboot. You will need a cv boot clamp pliers, and I think mtbtim has a video on how to reboot the axles. If you can wait a few extra days I think amayama is the cheapest for reboot kits.

 

[Riceye]

While changing my oil today I noticed grease from the left CV boot. I suspect it's from manual rotation when putting the knuckle back in a couple days ago, like I disturbed something. I noticed a smaller amount of grease last June when replacing rack and sway bar bushings. This is the first grease I've seen since and it's much worse.

It's not lifted and only sees pavement.

I'm trying to decide between rebooting and simply replacing the CV axles. Front end feels great. No popping noises or anything. I have nothing to compare it to but I've read that if the axle was bad, I'd know.

Local dealership wants $145 + $75 core or $53 for the reboot kit. Either way I assume it's good practice to do both sides.

My concern is parts availability if I wait until I actually have to replace the axles. It's "sort of" a DD as I've only put 50k miles on it since I bought it 10 years ago. Heck, at the rate I drive I don't have to do another timing belt job until 2042 and aircabinman's kids could be selling those kits for $2300!

If it were me, I'd wipe the axle and surrounding areas clean and run it to see if more grease reappears. If the clamp on the narrow end is weak, you can cut it off and replace with a wide cable tie. If the boot is cracked, well, then it needs replacing.

The tulip joint is less likely to suffer than the ball/cage type joint. Also, don't give up your original axles and joints. The quality of many replacements (especially the 'new' ones rather than 'remanufactured') is poor. If you need to pay someone to fix it for you, specify that you want the axle to be rebuilt/rebooted with quality parts.

 

[Sparky 97Runner]

While changing my oil today I noticed grease from the left CV boot. I suspect it's from manual rotation when putting the knuckle back in a couple days ago, like I disturbed something. I noticed a smaller amount of grease last June when replacing rack and sway bar bushings. This is the first grease I've seen since and it's much worse.

It's not lifted and only sees pavement.

I'm trying to decide between rebooting and simply replacing the CV axles. Front end feels great. No popping noises or anything. I have nothing to compare it to but I've read that if the axle was bad, I'd know.

Local dealership wants $145 + $75 core or $53 for the reboot kit. Either way I assume it's good practice to do both sides.

My concern is parts availability if I wait until I actually have to replace the axles. It's "sort of" a DD as I've only put 50k miles on it since I bought it 10 years ago. Heck, at the rate I drive I don't have to do another timing belt job until 2042 and aircabinman's kids could be selling those kits for $2300!

That grease looks white and thin. I wonder if it's been broken down by water or de-greaser left behind from a previous rebuild. I'd want to get in there and check it out asap.

 

[fatherohenry]

If you have the time I would do a reboot. You will need a cv boot clamp pliers, and I think mtbtim has a video on how to reboot the axles. If you can wait a few extra days I think amayama is the cheapest for reboot kits.

I have more time than money so that's easy. Amayama is double the cost at my local dealerships so that's another easy one. Pliers should arrive Monday. I was all set to reboot until I took a closer look into that part number (43448-35030) .

What concerns me now is that the part number shows up on PartSouq as OSC instead of Toyota and I haven't been able to track it down on any dealer sites.

1. How can I tell if these are OEM axles?
2. If they aren't, will the Toyota reboot kit actually work? (and would it be worth the trouble?)

I don't want to waste $110 on boot kits if they won't work and I'm not keen on paying $230 each if I can't get the core charge back.

That grease looks white and thin. I wonder if it's been broken down by water or de-greaser left behind from a previous rebuild. I'd want to get in there and check it out asap.

It's certainly not the black grease I see in Tim's video. Another reason to question if these aren't aftermarket.

 

[cl4Rk]

If you have the time I would do a reboot. You will need a cv boot clamp pliers, and I think mtbtim has a video on how to reboot the axles. If you can wait a few extra days I think amayama is the cheapest for reboot kits.

[MENTION=217643]fatherohenry[/MENTION]

CV Axle Reboot & Replacement With CV Boot Stretch Mod - YouTube

If you go with Toyota kit, like [MENTION=319302]Bad Luck[/MENTION] said you’ll need a specialty tool, I like my Lisle 30800 CV Boot Clamp Pliers. You’ll also need snap ring pliers. It’s all in the video.

My local 3rd gen group got together today and we did several cv reboots. The Toyota kit should work even if the axle is aftermarket. A few members also used aftermarket kits to reboot their cvs. The Toyota kit has more (and presumably better) grease.

 

[fatherohenry]

If you go with Toyota kit, like [MENTION=319302]Bad Luck[/MENTION] said you’ll need a specialty tool, I like my Lisle 30800 CV Boot Clamp Pliers. You’ll also need snap ring pliers. It’s all in the video.

My local 3rd gen group got together today and we did several cv reboots. The Toyota kit should work even if the axle is aftermarket. A few members also used aftermarket kits to reboot their cvs. The Toyota kit has more (and presumably better) grease.

Thanks, [MENTION=633155]cl4Rk[/MENTION]. I was just watching that video again and at 16:30 Tim mentions that Sean wasn't sure if the axles were OEM so that also answers my question.

The Lisle tool wasn't available on Amazon so I went with what looked like the equivalent from GearWrench.

Did any of you replace the diff seals? (90311-47027 L and 90311-77013 R)

 

[cl4Rk]

Did any of you replace the diff seals? (90311-47027 L and 90311-77013 R)

I did not, and nobody in my group did either. I guess I probably should’ve while it was all opened up.

 

[fatherohenry]

I did not, and nobody in my group did either. I guess I probably should’ve while it was all opened up.

Thanks, that's what I'm thinking. Now I just have to get that diff drain plug out!

 

[octanejunkie]

Technically you can use any tri-lobe boot kit, there aren't many on the market. Once the grease gets contaminated, and turns light grey or milky white you will need to clean and rinse everything very well and inspect for corrosion and/or pitting.

Make sure you order a few extra clamps/straps, it's not unusual to get it wrong a few times your first time trying.

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[fatherohenry]

...Once the grease gets contaminated, and turns light grey or milky white you will need to clean and rinse everything very well and inspect for corrosion and/or pitting...

Ideally I'd disassemble and inspect before ordering parts. This is why I'm tempted to just replace from the start. Guess I've got to ask myself one question. Do I feel lucky?