The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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You're welcome! Unfortunately I can't comment on the OME front springs, as I am running Dobinson's up front. Their rear springs were too tall and stiff for my liking, so I switched to 906's.

Cool, thanks again. I'm going to go mow the lawn before I click buy on all this other stuff in my cart at Wheeler's.
 
Thanks, Leon! I didn't see the used option yesterday.

Guy I spoke with at Wheeler's told me 881s would be a better choice than 880s with 906s in the back. Do you agree?


881s and 906s and 5100s here. The basic Wheeler's-recommended noob package. Too bad I'm not qualified to provide analysis - I just drive the thing and am pleasantly surprised at its capabilities. Are you planning to use the OME springs with existing struts? I have a steel front bumper en route and am running heavy skids. I'm pretty sure I erred on the conservative side. We'll see how things hold up, but I wouldn't be surprised If I'm looking to upgrade travel/quality at some point in the future. 33s are next tires as well.

Edit - did anyone mention that OME springs for 3rd gens are side-specific? if you are buying used - caveat emptor.

endlessblockades-albums-y2k-ltd-3-4-a-picture57876-5100-label.jpeg
 
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...Are you planning to use the OME springs with existing struts?...

Plan was to get the 906s on and see what happens, maybe swapping the existing KYBs for 5100s or even 4600s. But with the 906s on the way I'm all amped up and about to pull the trigger on 5100s for the rear and assembled 881/5100 for the front from Wheeler's.

Are you running the longer 5100s in the rear? The 1.5" - 3" as opposed to 0 - 2". I've read that they're valved softer and that seems like something I'd like but who the hell knows until they're on.
 
Plan was to get the 906s on and see what happens, maybe swapping the existing KYBs for 5100s or even 4600s. But with the 906s on the way I'm all amped up and about to pull the trigger on 5100s for the rear and assembled 881/5100 for the front from Wheeler's.

Are you running the longer 5100s in the rear? The 1.5" - 3" as opposed to 0 - 2". I've read that they're valved softer and that seems like something I'd like but who the hell knows until they're on.

Guess we can put a pin in this. The thought of only updating the rear coils was too much for me.

I ended up ordering the rest from Wheeler's. Went with the shorter 5100s in the rear to make sure those 906s don't have a chance of ever popping out. Totally going to be worth it. Right?

Thanks for your help and patience everyone.
 

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Guess we can put a pin in this. The thought of only updating the rear coils was too much for me.

I ended up ordering the rest from Wheeler's. Went with the shorter 5100s in the rear to make sure those 906s don't have a chance of ever popping out. Totally going to be worth it. Right?

Thanks for your help and patience everyone.

Cool. The rig is going to feel planted. Might be a tad harsh at first if you are coming from extra-squishy OEM style struts, especially without any weight onboard.
 
Is it REALLY necessary to use two wrenches for ITREs? What happens if you just use one on the tie rod? I don't see the rack spinning or going anywhere..
 
Is it REALLY necessary to use two wrenches for ITREs? What happens if you just use one on the tie rod? I don't see the rack spinning or going anywhere..
It's a good idea rather than tighten against the gear in the rack, yes.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 
So it appears that my front struts are in the early stages of leaking. I’ve got the Sonoran Steel classic 1.2 system. It has 101K miles on it (installed 2014)

Billies in the front/rear (5100’s) with Tundra springs in the front and LC springs in the rear. Ideally I’d like to just swap my Tundra springs into another strut.
Should I consider replacement 5100’s? Or can I try something new? I want something that’ll keep my ride height where it is, give me a good daily driving experience as well as maintaining its off-road capabilities. Any info is welcomed and appreciated!
 
Any info is welcomed and appreciated!

Do you have Specific issues/complaints with the 5100's now? If no, then this should be a no-brainer, put back 5100's. If you have Specific issues, spell them out, in detail. *I* can't help as I only have experience with the 6112's, but someone else will have tried 5100's And other options that may address your Specific complaints.

Careful on chasing theoretical "better", it's usually easier to find something worse than to get better. From what I understand, that SS1.2 kit was pretty well fleshed out as being "the best" you could do at that price point, and you needed to double your budget to see any real improvement.
 
Do you have Specific issues/complaints with the 5100's now? If no, then this should be a no-brainer, put back 5100's. If you have Specific issues, spell them out, in detail. *I* can't help as I only have experience with the 6112's, but someone else will have tried 5100's And other options that may address your Specific complaints.

Careful on chasing theoretical "better", it's usually easier to find something worse than to get better. From what I understand, that SS1.2 kit was pretty well fleshed out as being "the best" you could do at that price point, and you needed to double your budget to see any real improvement.

I don’t have any specific issues or complaints against the 5100’s. I think my curiosity for something “better” or different is just because I’ve only ever had the OEM Tocikos, then the 5100’s. So I don’t have experience with other components.

I’ve also heard the same, that the SS 1.2 is pretty well regarded in the world of 3rd gen suspension setups. I just want to know if there’s another option out there that might be worth trying. I’m not wheeling my rig these days, maybe the occasional drive on sand but that’s it. It might just be easiest if I were to replace them with a new set of 5100’s and call it a day.
 
Okay, another dumb question. I picked up some OME 906s on Amazon. I was expecting to see a few of the top coils much closer together based on my understanding of progressive rate as well as all the images I've seen of them online.

While they're not labelled, one is at most 3/16" longer than the other. I was expecting a bigger difference, at least a solid 1/4" or 3/8".

Am I reading too much into this as usual or did I shoot myself in the foot trying to save some money?


HkM4DD4.jpg


What I expected:

1517178291.jpg
 
Okay, another dumb question. I picked up some OME 906s on Amazon. I was expecting to see a few of the top coils much closer together based on my understanding of progressive rate as well as all the images I've seen of them online.

While they're not labelled, one is at most 3/16" longer than the other. I was expecting a bigger difference, at least a solid 1/4" or 3/8".

Am I reading too much into this as usual or did I shoot myself in the foot trying to save some money?


HkM4DD4.jpg

I know I led you down this track, so my bad. I ordered from the same folks but received the correct springs:

Kl8buel.jpg


Looks like it's a hit or miss with these guys - the good news is that you should be able to return these as "inaccurate website description", since obviously it's a different spring than shown in photo.

I would hold out for the correct (progressive) version!
 
I know I led you down this track, so my bad. I ordered from the same folks but received the correct springs:

I would hold out for the correct (progressive) version!

Not your bad at all but now I'm even more confused. I spoke with someone at Wheeler's and they told me "stock changes" and the coil spacing has "nothing to do with progressive rate". What in the world does that mean? I didn't realize 906s were even made in a non-progressive version. (image from Wheeler's site)

I'm returning what I received but who do I order from to get the correct coils?
 

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I spoke with someone at Wheeler's and they told me "stock changes" and the coil spacing has "nothing to do with progressive rate". What in the world does that mean?

It means you spoke to someone who doesn't know what they're talking about.

In fact, coil spacing is the only thing that determines spring rate in a coil spring with a constant coil and wire diameter.

SPRING-TYPES-1.jpg
 
It means you spoke to someone who doesn't know what they're talking about.

That was the impression I got but I'm trying to be a nicer person in my old age, give people the benefit of the doubt!

Being a web developer, it really bothers me when images don't match products. Guess I'll order from Wheeler's and keep my fingers crossed. At least the 881/5100s for the front will be here tomorrow.
 
No one knows?

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I was hoping for a reply myself... about to tackle one spot of frame rust on my FJ60. Better safe than sorry, I don't really have much in the way of electronics so I'll just do the battery. If you have an immobilizer ECU, might be smart to disconnect that unit (such a PITA to reset that and the dealer will want north of $1000 ~ takes a few minutes to get to, totally worth the effort). So many other modules on the 4runner though, you couldn't possibly get them all in a reasonable time frame.

What sliders are you going with? I've been eyeing the trailgear generics mostly due to price.
 
No one knows?

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Keep ground clamp as close as possible to each weld you do. Keep path short.
It too easy not to disconnect both batt posts.
Welding PCK frame bracket I didn't disco battery, doing LCA reinforcement wires near by I did.
 
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