The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[octanejunkie]

Find out where the weeping is coming from. Valve cover gaskets? Oil Cooler?

I've considered putting 1/2-1 quart of 20W in with the next oil change to modify viscosity very so slightly. It's what the Chevy guys do on higher mileage engines to account for bearing and seal wear.

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[JoeT4R]

Find out where the weeping is coming from. Valve cover gaskets? Oil Cooler?

I've considered putting 1/2-1 quart of 20W in with the next oil change to modify viscosity very so slightly. It's what the Chevy guys do on higher mileage engines to account for bearing and seal wear.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Doubt it’s VCG’s, could be the cooler. I’m thinking it’s coming from up top and making its way down to the bottom of the oil pan. I just hope it doesn’t worsen over time. Everything was cleaned up post-oil change at the beginning of June, so idk. I do plan to monitor it extensively though.

In your 4Runners, are you running a 5W or 10W-30?

 

[brillo_76]

Doubt it’s VCG’s, could be the cooler. I’m thinking it’s coming from up top and making its way down to the bottom of the oil pan. I just hope it doesn’t worsen over time. Everything was cleaned up post-oil change at the beginning of June, so idk. I do plan to monitor it extensively though.



In your 4Runners, are you running a 5W or 10W-30?

In my instances. Serveral of mine need valve pan etc redone on them. I run full synthetic 10w 30 and even mix it with a quart of locus heavy duty oil stabilizer to keep the oil in my engine. [Tetanus 1] On the ones that have seals all redone I run 5w-30 full synthetic.

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[octanejunkie]

Doubt it’s VCG’s, could be the cooler. I’m thinking it’s coming from up top and making its way down to the bottom of the oil pan. I just hope it doesn’t worsen over time. Everything was cleaned up post-oil change at the beginning of June, so idk. I do plan to monitor it extensively though.



In your 4Runners, are you running a 5W or 10W-30?

Could be cam seals, pull the timing cover to check.

I'm running 5W-30, I'm only at 248K and 311K respectively

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[octanejunkie]

Adjustable rear control arms for lifted trucks

The upper arms are literally toothpick sized.

Any reason not to replace these with aftermarket adjustable to correct pinion angle and beef up a weak point?

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[brillo_76]

Adjustable rear control arms for lifted trucks

The upper arms are literally toothpick sized.

Any reason not to replace these with aftermarket adjustable to correct pinion angle and beef up a weak point?

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They can come loose. My one had adjustable rear upper control arms on it. They were loose when I removed them.

So if your replacements have a locking mechanism so they can't work themselves loose. That probably be a better setup.

I personally prefer the aftermarket mavotech upper control arms as they are alot Beefer then the oem ones. They are tube like the lowers. Downside is they non adjustable. As I have had 2 or 3 oem upper control arms snap off..

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[octanejunkie]

They can come loose. My one had adjustable rear upper control arms on it. They were loose when I removed them.

So if your replacements have a locking mechanism so they can't work themselves loose. That probably be a better setup.

I personally prefer the aftermarket mavotech upper control arms as they are alot Beefer then the oem ones. They are tube like the lowers. Downside is they non adjustable. As I have had 2 or 3 oem upper control arms snap off..

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Nice. Got a PN for those Mevotech arms?

I'm ready to pull my rear sway bar off and have a spare set of rear links, but would rather avoid carrying more spare parts lol

 

[Spiker Engineering]

So recently, I’ve noticed more wetness on and around my oil drain pan. Yesterday I crawled beneath it and wiped everything off that I could see was wet/damp with oil. I’m planning to extensively monitor this over the next few months, checking it daily/weekly/as regular as possible.

I'll be curious to follow this. I run 5W-30 full synthetic in mine, at 210K. I have a super tiny leak, I would call it more of a continuously replenishing film, that I traced to the oil pan to block interface. It is not coming from anywhere above (oil cooler, VCG, etc); the only other possibility is the rear main seal, but I think it's dry on the rear side of the motor, and the leak is originating at the front.

I'm not planning to drop the pan just for this, and I am trying to learn to embrace the leak... but in reality, I'm like you, and I would prefer not to have it.

So if a solution as simple as thicker oil may be the answer, I'd love to try it.

 

[JoeT4R]

I'll be curious to follow this. I run 5W-30 full synthetic in mine, at 210K. I have a super tiny leak, I would call it more of a continuously replenishing film, that I traced to the oil pan to block interface. It is not coming from anywhere above (oil cooler, VCG, etc); the only other possibility is the rear main seal, but I think it's dry on the rear side of the motor, and the leak is originating at the front.

I'm not planning to drop the pan just for this, and I am trying to learn to embrace the leak... but in reality, I'm like you, and I would prefer not to have it.

So if a solution as simple as thicker oil may be the answer, I'd love to try it.

I’ll be posting any updates on my build thread/TacomaWorld. And I think you said it perfectly, and I’d have to revise my above post as say exactly what you said— more of a continuously replenishing film. That’s exactly what it is. But it bugs me nonetheless. I recently tightened my VCG bolts and the rear most driver side was the loosest. Not hand loose, but took a few turns for sure.

I’ll try to post any updates on this thread as well if/when possible.

 

[brillo_76]

Oh mine are not seeps [Tetanus1]. Mine are leaks. I tried to get away with 5w 30 full synthetic and the leaks were very bad. So I not only jumped to 10w -30 I went back to adding 1qt of lucus. Now I still slightly seep and it's slowed down enough I can get 5k miles till the next oil change.

I tried to put mobile 1 full synthetic into a 1983 toyota 22R engine. Back in the late 90s. Not only did it leak out it shorted out my starter.

I had to back to conventional to keep it in the seals.

If you are just having microscopic seeps. The jump in oil weight will most likely stop those. If they get to be leaks that won't be enough.

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[Spiker Engineering]

If you are just having microscopic seeps. The jump in oil weight will most likely stop those. If they get to be leaks that won't be enough.

I'll have to try this out, sure beats dropping the oil pan.

 

[JoeT4R]

Oh mine are not seeps [Tetanus1]. Mine are leaks. I tried to get away with 5w 30 full synthetic and the leaks were very bad. So I not only jumped to 10w -30 I went back to adding 1qt of lucus. Now I still slightly seep and it's slowed down enough I can get 5k miles till the next oil change.

I tried to put mobile 1 full synthetic into a 1983 toyota 22R engine. Back in the late 90s. Not only did it leak out it shorted out my starter.

I had to back to conventional to keep it in the seals.

If you are just having microscopic seeps. The jump in oil weight will most likely stop those. If they get to be leaks that won't be enough.

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So in addition to switching to 10W-30, did you switch to a high mileage oil as well? I’m contemplating doing that, but running 10W-30 makes me nervous. My owners manual suggests that I can run 5 or 10, but I have always ran 5W-30, nothing else. Would you recommend 10W-30 in a high mileage flavor?

 

[Bad Luck]

If anything I’d run a higher secondary oil weight like 5w40. That would give you a thicker oil when hot which is when the oil flows the easiest

 

[cl4Rk]

I’ve been running Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 Heavy Duty diesel engine oil with seemingly good results (but I haven’t done a Blackstone analysis yet).

 

[96RedRunner]

Would you recommend 10W-30 in a high mileage flavor?

I would, I've used Hi-mileage 10W-30 or 40 conventional 500k mi two different 5VZ's for 22 yrs and counting.
I won't swap on a engine nearing 100k, one 5VZ had 74k one 198k when I got them.
I used Rotella T4 10w-30 for cleanup on 198k 5VZ when I puchased it would still be using it if I could find it on a regular basis.

 

[JoeT4R]

I would, I've used Hi-mileage 10W-30 or 40 conventional 500k mi two different 5VZ's for 22 yrs and counting.
I won't swap on a engine nearing 100k, one 5VZ had 74k one 198k when I got them.
I used Rotella T4 10w-30 for cleanup on 198k 5VZ when I puchased it would still be using it if I could find it on a regular basis.

500K miles?! That's insane! I'm considering the SuperTech full synthetic high mileage. Unsure if I want to stick with 5W-30 or try out 10W-30. I've only ever ran 5W-30, so it make me nervous trying to play around with other options. And of course, I stocked up on my regular full synthetic 5W-30 (Kirkland Signature from Costco) and have 12 quarts of that sitting in the closet, which covers me for the next two oil changes. But I am willing to try a high mileage oil in between (for my next change) if I'm convinced enough to do so.

 

[96RedRunner]

There ya go.

 

[Toya!]

Anyone know the difference in part # 44510-35090 vs 44050-35030

I have no abs braking and trying to see what abs pump I need but these two come up. I have a 1999 limited if it helps

 

[Brian.]

Anyone know the difference in part # 44510-35090 vs 44050-35030

I have no abs braking and trying to see what abs pump I need but these two come up. I have a 1999 limited if it helps

090 is just an older part number, 030 is the current part number... same item.

 

[fatherohenry]

I recently got new tires. You'd think by now I'd know enough to take more than a glance at new things but I didn't.

While washing the wheels for the first time since I got the new tires I noticed 3 weights on the outside of the left rear wheel with 2 on the inside. All 5 appear to 30 grams each. Both sets are opposite each other on the wheel.

Is it normal to use over 5oz to balance a new tire or could there be something wrong with the wheel?

For what it's worth, here's the overall weight situation:

• LF 0 outside, 30 inside
• LR 3 x 30 outside, 2 x 30 inside opposite each other
• RF 0 outside, 30 & 15 inside
• RR 30 outside, 0 inside

This was done at America's/Discount and they told me they used Hunter road force machines.

She rides smooth at any speed so I suspect I'm just being a tool but I figured I might as well ask the experts. This is nowhere near as extreme as some posts I've come across but just because it's not as bad doesn't mean it's good, right?

(4Runner was driven between images. Weights are indeed opposite each other)