The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[michaelmike]

Prec you answer me several times wet abs no code pull it out and drive it RR code immediately. I’m going to try to buy another abs/vsc/trac module it is most common fix but I’m afraid new seal in diff and everyone says doi it all when you pull it out! 1500 a side looks like for me to do just have shop across the wa press on new parts SMH Always wanted 3rdGen never ran across the one I wanted until now. I’m had Nissans worked in the Smyrna TN manufacturing plant very similar sure do go about things different. Again thank you for your help this has actually been fun hands haven’t been cut or burned or bruised with these lovely black highlighting my fingernails

 

[michaelmike]

While they aren't smoked, they are clear. I run these on my truck and think they look extremely clean. They're DEPO brand and have a good reputation/reviews. I also have DEPO taillights. For only $32 I'd say give em a shot.

DEPO Clear Front Bumper Signal Light Pair For 1999-2001 Toyota 4Runner 4 Runner | eBay

I replaced whole thing with a 4 POD LED white amber light and a LED blinker the used template cutout transferred to plexiglass glass with tabs I added to template to insert over I also tinted plexiglass glass and painter chrome bumper black now whole front of truck is black I love it I also added LED round to replace running lights and aimed them down a bit and into the ditch. Makes me feel like I’m chasing someone I sure am silly old man

 

[jrm]

It not that i cant get the FOB thru the programming process, its that once the process/sequence is complete the system beeps 4 times signaling that the programming was unsuccessful instead of beeping 3 times signaling the programming was successful..

 

[slothy49]

Potential 3rd Gen Buyer

Looking at a 3rd gen on monday! Would be my first 4runner. It's an 01 Limited and the seller says he put in a new OEM radiator in the last year. I know that the pink milkshake is a concern on this gen. I'm waiting for hime to get back to me on details of why he replaced the radiator (it's at 260K so I don't want to automatically assume it was pink milkshake). However, incase it was due to the milkshake issue, what can I do/check to verify the health of the transmission and rest of the car after the fact before purchasing? Is there anyways I can get a good idea if it has or has not had the milkshake issue if the seller isn't forthcoming with me? Is worst case scenario sourcing a donor transmission from a parts car? Brother is a professional mechanic so big jobs aren't as big of a nightmare to me, just like to know what I'm getting myself into.

 

[JoeT4R]

Looking at a 3rd gen on monday! Would be my first 4runner. It's an 01 Limited and the seller says he put in a new OEM radiator in the last year. I know that the pink milkshake is a concern on this gen. I'm waiting for hime to get back to me on details of why he replaced the radiator (it's at 260K so I don't want to automatically assume it was pink milkshake). However, incase it was due to the milkshake issue, what can I do/check to verify the health of the transmission and rest of the car after the fact before purchasing? Is there anyways I can get a good idea if it has or has not had the milkshake issue if the seller isn't forthcoming with me? Is worst case scenario sourcing a donor transmission from a parts car? Brother is a professional mechanic so big jobs aren't as big of a nightmare to me, just like to know what I'm getting myself into.

I'm not exactly sure how you could "check" the health of the transmission, but I would first look at the color of the fluid and determine if the fluid has ever been changed. In general I'd do a few drain and fills just out of an abundance of caution. In an effort to eliminate the possibility of the pink milkshake, I'd recommend installing an external transmission cooler and bypassing the radiator. If you have any thoughts that it could have a bad transmission I'd likely pass up on the rig altogether, but if money and resources isn't an issue then I say go for it. I'm sure others while chime in with other ideas that will be good food for thought.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

 

[Endlessblockades]

[MENTION=729989]slothy49[/MENTION] Most owners who give a hoot about longevity replace the radiator proactively - like the LBJs.These are the 2 well-known maintenance necessities that pop up on most owner's radar. I wouldn't assume it was done as a result of a catastrophe until you learn more about the history. If the fluid is translucent the AT shifts well, chances are very good that it will be OK. Wosrt-case is picking up a $700 used tranny from a wrecker and having your brother help out (lucky!)

 

[96RedRunner]

Looking at a 3rd gen on monday! Would be my first 4runner. It's an 01 Limited, Radiator at 260k mi.

Things I found out after purchasing my 01 @ 198k mi. having basic maint performed over it's life.
Things new to platform starting 01.
VSC ABS Trac control module known failure point for some.
Brake Master Cylinder can become a issue can be rebuilt to a point, new one $2300 availability is becoming a issue.
A340F for 01 has changes, OverDrive planetary gear assembly failure is known of.
@227k mi now, bought it with bad control module, MC went bad, Trans has started whining at start up with cold fluid.
Had it to do again "Run Forest Run" but I'm in too deep now.

 

[cavscout85]

New Question - Odd Instrument Cluster Short

Hello all,

I have a 3rd gen (2001) 4Runner that has recently developed an odd and intermittent short that I am having difficulty in diagnosing. When I engage the Cruise Control, more often than not, it seems to short out most of the instrument cluster. I lose the temp, tach, speed and fuel sensors and most of the warning lights on the cluster. After some period of time, sometimes while driving and sometimes after sitting for a while, everything comes back to normal. Also, sometimes I lose the cluster sensors for no reason at all. I mention the Cruise control because that is the most consistent behavior that kills it.

So, I am trying to figure out what I need to fix/replace. I should add that this vehicle, since I purchased it, has had power lock problems (I can unlock the car, but cannot lock it with door or key fob) and research on this site leads me to believe I may have to swap out the ECU. However, others indicate it may be the fuse block that needs to be replaced even though I have never blown a fuse. Finally, I have also seen that I may need to replace the speed sensors. Hence, I am very confused as to where to start and don't want to just randomly replace things as I am one of those mechanics that tend to make things worse before actually fixing my problem.

 

[Boom_ROASTED]

I have a bad habit of crushing these. Is there any reason I should not place these washers here? Other than if it happened to prevent the terminal from being tight enough.

Would the type of metal make a difference?

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

 

[slothy49]

Things I found out after purchasing my 01 @ 198k mi. having basic maint performed over it's life.
Things new to platform starting 01.
VSC ABS Trac control module known failure point for some.
Brake Master Cylinder can become a issue can be rebuilt to a point, new one $2300 availability is becoming a issue.
A340F for 01 has changes, OverDrive planetary gear assembly failure is known of.
@227k mi now, bought it with bad control module, MC went bad, Trans has started whining at start up with cold fluid.
Had it to do again "Run Forest Run" but I'm in too deep now.

Thank you for the insight!

 

[slothy49]

[MENTION=729989]slothy49[/MENTION] Most owners who give a hoot about longevity replace the radiator proactively - like the LBJs.These are the 2 well-known maintenance necessities that pop up on most owner's radar. I wouldn't assume it was done as a result of a catastrophe until you learn more about the history. If the fluid is translucent the AT shifts well, chances are very good that it will be OK. Wosrt-case is picking up a $700 used tranny from a wrecker and having your brother help out (lucky!)

Yeah I've been hearing that replacing the radiator is just another piece of routine maintenance on these. What interval do most people go with? Seller seems legit and trustworthy, so thats good. He sent pics of the old radiator and it had developed a crack on the top end, so no pink milkshake. My brother is a huge reason I feel comfortable buying a vehicle this age and mileage hahaha!

 

[slothy49]

I'm not exactly sure how you could "check" the health of the transmission, but I would first look at the color of the fluid and determine if the fluid has ever been changed. In general I'd do a few drain and fills just out of an abundance of caution. In an effort to eliminate the possibility of the pink milkshake, I'd recommend installing an external transmission cooler and bypassing the radiator. If you have any thoughts that it could have a bad transmission I'd likely pass up on the rig altogether, but if money and resources isn't an issue then I say go for it. I'm sure others while chime in with other ideas that will be good food for thought.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

If I get the truck, I will definitely be installing a transmission cooler. What do most people go with? I think I read there's two sizes that are commonly chosen. Definitely doing a full fluid change on the whole vehicle too. Thank you!

 

[Endlessblockades]

Yeah I've been hearing that replacing the radiator is just another piece of routine maintenance on these. What interval do most people go with? Seller seems legit and trustworthy, so thats good. He sent pics of the old radiator and it had developed a crack on the top end, so no pink milkshake. My brother is a huge reason I feel comfortable buying a vehicle this age and mileage hahaha!

My original radiator was still working when I bought the rig and swapped it at 225k. Interval of 100k miles should be fine, I'd say. I'd ask your brother to do a (OEM parts only!) lower ball joint job unless the seller can prove beyond a shadow of a doubt that it's been done and you see little to no play.

 

[spartacus]

Hello all,

I have a 3rd gen (2001) 4Runner that has recently developed an odd and intermittent short that I am having difficulty in diagnosing. When I engage the Cruise Control, more often than not, it seems to short out most of the instrument cluster. I lose the temp, tach, speed and fuel sensors and most of the warning lights on the cluster. After some period of time, sometimes while driving and sometimes after sitting for a while, everything comes back to normal. Also, sometimes I lose the cluster sensors for no reason at all. I mention the Cruise control because that is the most consistent behavior that kills it.

So, I am trying to figure out what I need to fix/replace. I should add that this vehicle, since I purchased it, has had power lock problems (I can unlock the car, but cannot lock it with door or key fob) and research on this site leads me to believe I may have to swap out the ECU. However, others indicate it may be the fuse block that needs to be replaced even though I have never blown a fuse. Finally, I have also seen that I may need to replace the speed sensors. Hence, I am very confused as to where to start and don't want to just randomly replace things as I am one of those mechanics that tend to make things worse before actually fixing my problem.

CC actuator module could be bad or have corrosion or short. look at the wiring diagram for the cc actuator. When you press the cc button does the cruise control light come on?

 

[Shlop]

Trying to diagnose loose steering on my 98 Limited

-Wanders when im driving at lower speeds, or especially between 45-55mph
-Really terrible and loose when im in 4WD
-Activating Rear locker helps in or out of 4hi

My shop says its a whole new steering rack time. I do not want to drop the 1.5k minimum itll take to get this done, so I'm trying to make a list of things that I will be doing before resorting to either having the shop swap or i DIY the steering rack swap myself.

So far this is what I've got for troubleshooting steps, please let me know any suggestions if you think I need to include or forget about something

1. Steering collumn mod, tack welding the joint and stiffening the plastic ball joint by sandwiching a thin piece of plastic in there
2. Replace bushings on the steering rack
3. Replace outer tie rods
4. replace inner tie rods
5. If the steering still sucks, replace the whole rack?

Does this sound right?

 

[Shlop]

Trying to diagnose loose steering on my 98 Limited

-Wanders when im driving at lower speeds, or especially between 45-55mph
-Really terrible and loose when im in 4WD
-Activating Rear locker helps in or out of 4hi

My shop says its a whole new steering rack time. I do not want to drop the 1.5k minimum itll take to get this done, so I'm trying to make a list of things that I will be doing before resorting to either having the shop swap or i DIY the steering rack swap myself.

So far this is what I've got for troubleshooting steps, please let me know any suggestions if you think I need to include or forget about something

1. Steering collumn mod, tack welding the joint and stiffening the plastic ball joint by sandwiching a thin piece of plastic in there
2. Replace bushings on the steering rack
3. Replace outer tie rods
4. replace inner tie rods
5. If the steering still sucks, replace the whole rack?

Does this sound right?

Also, what else should I be doing while I'm down in that suspension area and while I have things taken off and am on the ground under there? The brakes need to be done badly. I have service records dating back to 2009 on this and cant find any instance of any actual suspension work. Seems like its probably still all original down there so what can I do to make the driving experience better? What wearable parts should i just get out of there and replace? What should I be looking for? I've never worked on steering/suspension so im new at this but I want to learn for this car and save a bunch of money by doing it myself.

 

[connorms]

Trying to diagnose loose steering on my 98 Limited

-Wanders when im driving at lower speeds, or especially between 45-55mph
-Really terrible and loose when im in 4WD
-Activating Rear locker helps in or out of 4hi

My shop says its a whole new steering rack time. I do not want to drop the 1.5k minimum itll take to get this done, so I'm trying to make a list of things that I will be doing before resorting to either having the shop swap or i DIY the steering rack swap myself.

So far this is what I've got for troubleshooting steps, please let me know any suggestions if you think I need to include or forget about something

1. Steering collumn mod, tack welding the joint and stiffening the plastic ball joint by sandwiching a thin piece of plastic in there
2. Replace bushings on the steering rack
3. Replace outer tie rods
4. replace inner tie rods
5. If the steering still sucks, replace the whole rack?

Does this sound right?

I would recommend skipping out on replacing the inner tie rods if you don't feel any play in yours. When I bought them a few years ago it costed ~$500 through my local Toyota dealer, so if you're going with OEM parts I'd recommend putting that towards a new rack, which I think comes with new inner tie rods already. I may be wrong on this, just going off of memory from when I did a front suspension refresh ~3 years ago. Either way, they're pretty expensive just to be throwing in without knowing if your current ones are bad or not.

 

[Boom_ROASTED]

Just wanted to add that yes a new rack will include inner tie rods and boots

 

[JoeT4R]

If I get the truck, I will definitely be installing a transmission cooler. What do most people go with? I think I read there's two sizes that are commonly chosen. Definitely doing a full fluid change on the whole vehicle too. Thank you!

Hayden or B&M. I've got the B&M 70268 (the smaller one I think) or some people will do the B&M 70264 (larger I think)

 

[Shlop]

I would recommend skipping out on replacing the inner tie rods if you don't feel any play in yours. When I bought them a few years ago it costed ~$500 through my local Toyota dealer, so if you're going with OEM parts I'd recommend putting that towards a new rack, which I think comes with new inner tie rods already. I may be wrong on this, just going off of memory from when I did a front suspension refresh ~3 years ago. Either way, they're pretty expensive just to be throwing in without knowing if your current ones are bad or not.

Good point, I watched the rack replacement video from Timmy and there's definitely new inners included, and the inner replacement video he posted looked like a giant PITA anyway I was definitely thinking "If im going this far into it i might as well replace the rack anyway."

I dont think it comes with new bushings or outer tie rods, though. So I think my plan should still include replacing those first?