The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[connorms]

Good point, I watched the rack replacement video from Timmy and there's definitely new inners included, and the inner replacement video he posted looked like a giant PITA anyway I was definitely thinking "If im going this far into it i might as well replace the rack anyway."

I dont think it comes with new bushings or outer tie rods, though. So I think my plan should still include replacing those first?

Yeah if I could go back and do it again I would do polyurethane steering rack bushings and OEM outer tie rods. I chose to replace the inners instead of getting a new rack, and now a few years later my rack is on its way out so it ended up costing me a lot more by just replacing the inners instead of the whole rack

 

[I❤️4runners]

Hey all! I've been noticing for a while that the rear end of my 3rd gen looks like it's squatting a little bit. I replaced the shocks about 4 months ago as the stud on the original drivers side shock rusted and snapped off. So both shocks are replaced but the rear end is still slightly lower than the front. Is it possible the rear coil springs are worn out? I mean, do they slowly compress over long periods of time? It's only noticeable when you're looking straight at it from the side on a level surface. Any thoughts would be appreciated! Thanks guys!

 

[spartacus]

Hey all! I've been noticing for a while that the rear end of my 3rd gen looks like it's squatting a little bit. I replaced the shocks about 4 months ago as the stud on the original drivers side shock rusted and snapped off. So both shocks are replaced but the rear end is still slightly lower than the front. Is it possible the rear coil springs are worn out? I mean, do they slowly compress over long periods of time? It's only noticeable when you're looking straight at it from the side on a level surface. Any thoughts would be appreciated! Thanks guys!

You are correct. Rear springs do wear out over time and miles making the rear end squat.

 

[I❤️4runners]

You are correct. Rear springs do wear out over time and miles making the rear end squat.

OK great! Thank you for that conformation. This leads me to my next question: will replacing the rear springs bring the rear end up higher than the front? Would it be best to replace the springs all around or is it OK to just do the rears? Thank you for your help! I really appreciate it.

 

[Endlessblockades]

Can someone remind me of the purpose of the little bump on the driver's side of the dash where it meets the bottom of the windshield? A sensor of some kind? TY

 

[Bad Luck]

Can someone remind me of the purpose of the little bump on the driver's side of the dash where it meets the bottom of the windshield? A sensor of some kind? TY

Pretty sure it’s the sun load sensor for the automatic climate control

 

[96RedRunner]

Can someone remind me of the purpose of the little bump on the driver's side of the dash where it meets the bottom of the windshield? A sensor of some kind? TY

[MENTION=319302]Bad Luck[/MENTION] nailed it, look at page AC-13 of FSM Auto A/C: Solar Sensor.

 

[96RedRunner]

Thank you for the insight!

Your welcome, Did you go look at the mentioned Runner?

 

[OpenYota]

Trying to diagnose loose steering on my 98 Limited

-Wanders when im driving at lower speeds, or especially between 45-55mph
-Really terrible and loose when im in 4WD
-Activating Rear locker helps in or out of 4hi

My shop says its a whole new steering rack time. I do not want to drop the 1.5k minimum itll take to get this done, so I'm trying to make a list of things that I will be doing before resorting to either having the shop swap or i DIY the steering rack swap myself.

So far this is what I've got for troubleshooting steps, please let me know any suggestions if you think I need to include or forget about something

1. Steering collumn mod, tack welding the joint and stiffening the plastic ball joint by sandwiching a thin piece of plastic in there
2. Replace bushings on the steering rack
3. Replace outer tie rods
4. replace inner tie rods
5. If the steering still sucks, replace the whole rack?

Does this sound right?

You will likely spend more money having a shop do all of that work then just changing the entire rack itself.
And it won't be $1,500 to replace it either.
You'll pay around $650 for the rack and outer tie rods from McGeorge after shipping then another $300 in labour to swap the rack at a shop.
From my understanding getting the hard lines off the rack can be a PITA and strip so I'd rather let a shop deal with that personally.

 

[96RedRunner]

[MENTION=729989]slothy49[/MENTION] Wosrt-case is picking up a $700 used tranny from a wrecker and having your brother help out (lucky!)

Lucky it would be I've been looking for 6 months for one worthy of straight swap out.
01-02 only trans you can use, my neck o the woods start is $1200 for one @200k+ mi already pulled. Big risk.
If under 200k mi $1500 and up.
Of a dozen running vehicles at yard and private 200k+ mi 75% had cold fluid whine.
There is no cheap fix anymore. Rebuild of what you have is wiser choice. It ain't cheap.

 

[spartacus]

OK great! Thank you for that conformation. This leads me to my next question: will replacing the rear springs bring the rear end up higher than the front? Would it be best to replace the springs all around or is it OK to just do the rears? Thank you for your help! I really appreciate it.

Generally speaking front springs don't sag on the 3rd gens. The choice for the rears is many .you can go with 99 rear springs which are the tallest year for 3rd gens or a number of other options. I have the ome 906 which tend to be on the stiffer side and lift about 1.5 to 2 inches.
**Rear Coil Spring Discussion - The Perfect 3rd Gen Rear Spring**

 

[JoeT4R]

OK great! Thank you for that conformation. This leads me to my next question: will replacing the rear springs bring the rear end up higher than the front? Would it be best to replace the springs all around or is it OK to just do the rears? Thank you for your help! I really appreciate it.

So many variables come into play, but it's okay to do only the rears. You have a lot of different options, as mentioned above, and it just depends on what kind of results you want to yield.

 

[96RedRunner]

OK great! Thank you for that conformation. This leads me to my next question: will replacing the rear springs bring the rear end up higher than the front? Would it be best to replace the springs all around or is it OK to just do the rears? Thank you for your help! I really appreciate it.

New factory spring stance is level to slighty higher in rear. Depending on milage old springs front new rear
will give you a raked stance more than factory. And the ride to match, old squishy front firmer new rear
does effect handling characteristics. Because of that I always change all four shocks and springs.

 

[Shlop]

You will likely spend more money having a shop do all of that work then just changing the entire rack itself.
And it won't be $1,500 to replace it either.
You'll pay around $650 for the rack and outer tie rods from McGeorge after shipping then another $300 in labour to swap the rack at a shop.
From my understanding getting the hard lines off the rack can be a PITA and strip so I'd rather let a shop deal with that personally.

This is definitely a good point, and my thoughts as well. But I was quoted over 1300 for the rack replacement parts and labor. I dont know if that even included outer ties, new bushings, and an alignment after the fact, either.

 

[Shlop]

Where am I supposed to be sourcing my genuine or OEM parts from online, for the best prices? So I can put together a shopping list and cost/risk analysis assess for all these jobs I need done vs what my shop quotes

Outer ties, Rack, Brakes (full replace), CV leak

98 Limited 4wd, btw

 

[OpenYota]

Where am I supposed to be sourcing my genuine or OEM parts from online, for the best prices? So I can put together a shopping list and cost/risk analysis assess for all these jobs I need done vs what my shop quotes

Outer ties, Rack, Brakes (full replace), CV leak

98 Limited 4wd, btw

McGeorge Toyota has the lowest prices of all and is on the East coast. Camelback Toyota has slightly higher prices but is on the west coast so compare prices and assess shipping costs compared to where you're located.

Don't be afraid to purchase parts on your own and bring them to the shop so they only charge you for labour, only downside is that they will void the warranty on the work but at least you have the piece of mind that you are installing quality OEM parts and saving on the cost.

Also, the front breaks are generally easy to do yourself if you have the wrenching know how, can't comment on the rears as I have not done those personally.

 

[I❤️4runners]

New factory spring stance is level to slighty higher in rear. Depending on milage old springs front new rear
will give you a raked stance more than factory. And the ride to match, old squishy front firmer new rear
does effect handling characteristics. Because of that I always change all four shocks and springs.

OK, thank you so much for your input guys! I really appreciate it. For now I kinda just want to restore my factory ride height. I'm now toying with the idea of replacing the fronts too but can I get buy without replacing the front shocks as well? I'm not looking to lift the truck or anything so I'm wondering if the factory shocks are going to be fine if I replace the springs. You said milage can come into play and I have 280,000 on mine. With that in mind do you think it'd be good to just go ahead and do the fronts? Again thank you so much for you help. This forum is awesome!

 

[octanejunkie]

Where am I supposed to be sourcing my genuine or OEM parts from online, for the best prices? So I can put together a shopping list and cost/risk analysis assess for all these jobs I need done vs what my shop quotes

Outer ties, Rack, Brakes (full replace), CV leak

98 Limited 4wd, btw

I search from parts.toyota.com (national database) then order online from my local Toyota dealer and pickup in person to save on shipping.

Amayama.com is another option if you have time to wait and is often much lower than national as they source from Asian and Middle Eastern (Japan and Saudi Arabia) warehouses.

Timmy the Toolman's videos (@mtbtim) will walk you through most every job, big and small, and give you all the critical information needed.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[96RedRunner]

Where am I supposed to be sourcing my genuine or OEM parts from online

Olathe Toyota in KS is close to you, is a good source I've used living in third coast area.

 

[96RedRunner]

just want to restore my factory ride height. I'm now toying with the idea of replacing the fronts too but can I get buy without replacing the front shocks as well?

Editing what I posted:
"It is always best to change all four shocks and springs".

Do you want a piece meal ride and handling or like new ride and handling?
Going cheap gets you cheap if that works go for it. No love for Runner
99 tall springs with factory equivalent shocks for your desired outcome is a very good package.