The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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This may be a dumb question, but does anyone make some sort of front diff cap that allows you to pull a CV shaft and plug the hole so you can drive without losing all your gear oil?
Seems like a million dollar idea :snacker:
 
Besides Toyota E locker swap, here's some options that don't include swapping the whole axle:

aftermarket selectable locker.
Auto locker.
Torsen LSD.

Any of the above combined with a regear.

Thanks for this.

Can you give suggestions as to locker vs LSD? And more info on the regear? Is that a separate purchase? What are the benefits/downsides?
 
This may be a dumb question, but does anyone make some sort of front diff cap that allows you to pull a CV shaft and plug the hole so you can drive without losing all your gear oil?
Seems like a million dollar idea :snacker:

There was someone that took apart a bad axle and used just to part of the axle that goes into the front diff to plug it

EDIT: If you have to remove the old axle shaft that broke then you might as well just carry a spare shaft to install IMO.
 
There was someone that took apart a bad axle and used just to part of the axle that goes into the front diff to plug it

EDIT: If you have to remove the old axle shaft that broke then you might as well just carry a spare shaft to install IMO.

That's what I was thinking of doing if it wasn't available, good to know that would actually work lol
I'm not talking about wheeling specifically, I'm hunting down a howl and trying to eliminate parts :lol:
Unfortunately dont have a spare set already so I was just looking for a super cheap work around but that's the way she goes I guess
 
Hey everyone!

I’m tackling the front and rear shocks/struts on my 99 Limited and have a quick question before I order the parts. I’m on a bit of a budget so decided on KYB Gas A Just struts for the front and rear. When it comes to springs, I’ve been seeing very mixed opinions on Moog. Are they really as bad as some people here say? I don’t wheel or anything. Basically all paved road driving with some dirt roads if I’m going camping. If Moog are actually as bad as people say, what are some other budget springs (under $300 for front and rear together)?

Thanks!
 
Hey everyone!

I’m tackling the front and rear shocks/struts on my 99 Limited and have a quick question before I order the parts. I’m on a bit of a budget so decided on KYB Gas A Just struts for the front and rear. When it comes to springs, I’ve been seeing very mixed opinions on Moog. Are they really as bad as some people here say? I don’t wheel or anything. Basically all paved road driving with some dirt roads if I’m going camping. If Moog are actually as bad as people say, what are some other budget springs (under $300 for front and rear together)?

Thanks!

For the rear oem 99 talls are a good option. Front oem springs generally are fine and rarely give out at stock weight. OME 880 or 881 will be good option for stock suspension.
 
For the rear oem 99 talls are a good option. Front oem springs generally are fine and rarely give out at stock weight. OME 880 or 881 will be good option for stock suspension.

Good deal, I actually saw a thread that said pairing the rear 99 tall (PN 48231-35210) with PN 48131-35400 / 48131-35350 in the front is a good combo and will give about a 1 inch lift which I wouldn’t mind so think I’m going to go that route. I shouldn’t have any issues using KYB Gas A Just struts with those larger springs, right?
 
Good deal, I actually saw a thread that said pairing the rear 99 tall (PN 48231-35210) with PN 48131-35400 / 48131-35350 in the front is a good combo and will give about a 1 inch lift which I wouldn’t mind so think I’m going to go that route. I shouldn’t have any issues using KYB Gas A Just struts with those larger springs, right?

As long as the KYB part number is the same for all 3rd Gen 4x4(96-02) 4runners then you are good to go.
 
7Hi everyone. New here.
3rd gen 2wd with 200k.

If you were me, and I was you, would you do your front wheel bearings?
I bought koyo, not oem.
In the middle of a suspension refresh.

I was going to do them, until I pulled the knuckle off and noticed a very, very smooth bearing.
It has some turning noise, but sounds good overall.

I can also make it move just a hair (makes a noise) when I turn the hub by hand and try to shake it.
I know that some extremely minimal play could be normal sometimes.

My fear is that I'll potentially cause more problems by changing them, than if I had just left it alone.

I have read threads on peoples bearings failing for no reason after replacement, why bother on something that is fine?

But then again, what if the slight play is not normal, and the seals are bad?


Both situations can cause similar feelings of regret.

Wheel bearings do fail, but is it preventative to change them? Not sure when I'll have my steering knuckle in my hand with a press ready to go.

Can you get 300k+ on originals, even with light wheeling?

Wwyd?

Obviously no right answer here, but a different opinion might be interesting.
 
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hi there, new here with a question

my 97 4runner was leaking very very little oil since I bought it 3 months ago. reputable shop here in Seattle area noted one halfmoon leaking some drops, degreased the engine, dyed oil with UV thing so it reflect UV light and let me drive it for 300-400 miles. After that they didnt fine any other leak except for that halfmoon.

I did valve cover gasket job following timmy the toolman video and it worked out well, no halfmoons leaks anymore. But the leak form somewhere else is still there though :( Today I removed the guard and was laying there with UV light trying to find the oil trace up there. And I think I found it! Please see attached photo.
The photo was taken from the passenger side under the car.

Could anyone tell me what kind of plug is this?
THANKS!

uDXhak2.jpeg
 
Found this in the driveway after replacing my starter contacts.

mNFOpmW.jpg


I thought it was the part shown below, but I just went out to check and it's still there.
As far as I can tell there's only supposed to be 1 on the starter and I can't find the part being used elsewhere.
Any thoughts?

bvgPkZ2.jpg


28199-74110

Thanks!
 

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Found this in the driveway after replacing my starter contacts.

mNFOpmW.jpg


I thought it was the part shown below, but I just went out to check and it's still there.
As far as I can tell there's only supposed to be 1 on the starter and I can't find the part being used elsewhere.
Any thoughts?

bvgPkZ2.jpg


28199-74110

Thanks!

There are actually two of these dust protectors on the starter, one on the solenoid and one on the body. Here they are on my starter:

uBSrX8o.jpg
 
There are actually two of these dust protectors on the starter, one on the solenoid and one on the body.

Thanks, Leon. I wonder why they only show the upper one in the parts diagram.

I've been trying to order this part online for the past 50 minutes. Different browsers, logged in, logged out, incognito, different cards, different swear words. Guess I'll have to show up and order in-person like a caveman.


Edit: that ^ is in reference to the new Toyota parts websites. The "online guy" at the dealership said he's been tearing his hair out due to all the complaints.
 
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Thanks for this.

Can you give suggestions as to locker vs LSD? And more info on the regear? Is that a separate purchase? What are the benefits/downsides?

Locker - when engaged, power delivered to both wheels evenly, both wheels turn at same speed, maximizing traction.
This is the go-to for off road applications.
Pros: Maximize traction, stronger differential (with ARB $$$), less maintenance than LSD (arguable for ARB, definitely not less than a TruTrac), cheap (for auto-locker)
Cons: price (for selectable locker), complexity (for selectable locker)

LSD - when engaged, attempts to deliver power more equally, but doesn't actually lock.
Most people don't use an LSD off road unless you go with a helical design like the TruTrac.
Pros: cheaper than selectable locker (with TruTrac)
Cons: doesnt lock, less traction, more maintenance (except with TruTrac), expensive (compared to auto locker), less options

Regear - regear makes sense to do at the same time as a locker. Mostly not needed unless you are running bigger tires. A regear basically allows you to trade some top-end speed for acceleration/torque or vice versa. People do this when running bigger tires because bigger tires essentially changes your final drive ratio such that you lose a lot of acceleration/torque.
 
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Hi guys,

So last week I posted about opinions on 99 tall springs and today the opportunity came about to get brand new front and rear springs from a 2021 for $75 and I was wondering if these will fit on a 99 limited without having to modify the truck. If so, how much could I expect the lift to be? I don’t really want to go above 1” but $75 vs $580 is very enticing.

Thanks!
 
Hi guys,

So last week I posted about opinions on 99 tall springs and today the opportunity came about to get brand new front and rear springs from a 2021 for $75 and I was wondering if these will fit on a 99 limited without having to modify the truck. If so, how much could I expect the lift to be? I don’t really want to go above 1” but $75 vs $580 is very enticing.

Thanks!

The fronts are too long wont work. The rear springs will give you a 2inch lift but tend to fall out when fully extended when wheeling according to some. The 5th Gen rear shocks are about 22"vs the 3rd Gen which are about 20".
 
Hey guys, I’m trying to figure out the best way to attach this back (tailgate hatch). I usually would do super glue but I don’t know if that’s the play here. Or should I just buy another rubber weather strip and use the adhesive that comes with it?
 

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My transmission fluid (in the pan) keeps turning dark brown,and thinning out, even after giving it a full flush using the cooler send line hose technique.
(Turn engine on to drain a quart, add one, drain, add, etc.)

It still works, but it feels different shifting only when the fluid is brown.

I took the cooler hose off and pressurized the rad, and didn't see/hear anything in that area of the radiator, so it can't be coolant working it's way in there.

Anyone have any idea what it could be?
Filter that gets clogged once in a while, then burns up all the fluid?
 
My transmission fluid (in the pan) keeps turning dark brown,and thinning out, even after giving it a full flush using the cooler send line hose technique.
(Turn engine on to drain a quart, add one, drain, add, etc.)

It still works, but it feels different shifting only when the fluid is brown.

I took the cooler hose off and pressurized the rad, and didn't see/hear anything in that area of the radiator, so it can't be coolant working it's way in there.

Anyone have any idea what it could be?
Filter that gets clogged once in a while, then burns up all the fluid?

How fast are we talking, like how many miles? Manual or automatic? If the latter typically your next step should be to look at your radiator and consider replacing it, but if it's happening unreasonably fast that might be a different story as well
 
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