The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
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SPECIAL EDDIE
New member
2001 LIMITED AWD 252k miles, runs & drives great - 12V at 1 year old Battery - 12V at white wire Terminal in nearby Relay Box - 4V at all my Power Points & no start - New Denso Starter I installed when this happened last Month & I thought original may be shorted - Ign Switch ? - a Main Power Relay somewhere ___? - Last 40 mile drive was in heavy rain w/ AWD on - Thanx in advance.
spartacus
Senior Member
COR = circuit opening relay. It functions to energize the fuel pump whike starting and motor running. In our trucks it's the EFI relay.
spartacus
Senior Member
Assuming you are having problems on intial start up.
12volts at the battery is too low. Battery should be 12.6v at rest and 13.5vt o 14.4 with the motor running.
gh25_
Member
Ahhhhh that makes more sense now. Thank you for that explanation. So glad I finally know what he meant lol. Good to know. I just picked up a bunch of OEM Denso relays from a low milage 98 4runner at the junkyard
Appreciate it!
-GH
Shlop
New member
Also have a thread made on this on main.
1998 4x4 Limited w/ 230k and a 02 RWD Limited w/180k both on factory suspensions and are really rough riding. I’m looking to do replacements in my garage for both front and rear on the 4x4 and I need to look closer at the 2Runner to see what it needs but I feel like it should be front and back as well. 4x4 also needs a complete brake rehaul and a few other things need to happen while I’m down there.
I want to raise clearance a bit for both, as the 2Runner is a road trip and camper and the 4 is my daily and snow driver with possible light overlanding in the future. One has 17s but both will eventually. Same setup on both would be great so I know what’s happening on the second go around but I am willing to do different mods if it makes sense.
Including all suspension and brakes for the 98 I’d like parts to be under $1k if possible.
Do I have suggestions? My main goal is just a bit of extra clearance and to affix the last suspensions these 2 cars will ever need with a smooth ride. I’m capable of anything that has a YouTube tutorial but please let me know if I’m mistaken if thinking installing proper lifts will fix my issues.
1998 4x4 Limited w/ 230k and a 02 RWD Limited w/180k both on factory suspensions and are really rough riding. I’m looking to do replacements in my garage for both front and rear on the 4x4 and I need to look closer at the 2Runner to see what it needs but I feel like it should be front and back as well. 4x4 also needs a complete brake rehaul and a few other things need to happen while I’m down there.
I want to raise clearance a bit for both, as the 2Runner is a road trip and camper and the 4 is my daily and snow driver with possible light overlanding in the future. One has 17s but both will eventually. Same setup on both would be great so I know what’s happening on the second go around but I am willing to do different mods if it makes sense.
Including all suspension and brakes for the 98 I’d like parts to be under $1k if possible.
Do I have suggestions? My main goal is just a bit of extra clearance and to affix the last suspensions these 2 cars will ever need with a smooth ride. I’m capable of anything that has a YouTube tutorial but please let me know if I’m mistaken if thinking installing proper lifts will fix my issues.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Front strut perch positioning
Hey everyone. Im replacing my front and rear suspension with KYB Gas A Just struts and 2021 springs. I purchased new top hats as well for the front so I could have the new strut fully assembled prior to starting the repair. My question is, does the perch orientation matter? On the struts I purchased, the perch is welded on and with the spring fully seated, it’s going to be in the front of the strut (parallel with the front bumper) instead of parallel with the wheel like the oem struts are. Will this cause any issues or should I be ok?
Hey everyone. Im replacing my front and rear suspension with KYB Gas A Just struts and 2021 springs. I purchased new top hats as well for the front so I could have the new strut fully assembled prior to starting the repair. My question is, does the perch orientation matter? On the struts I purchased, the perch is welded on and with the spring fully seated, it’s going to be in the front of the strut (parallel with the front bumper) instead of parallel with the wheel like the oem struts are. Will this cause any issues or should I be ok?
gomezdanny6921
New member
Hey you guys! So I made my own retrofitted hesdlights and I tapped into my corner lights and the 10a fuse kept blowing so I switched is with a 15a and it now works perfectly is this safe? Thanks
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Replace ball joints
Hi everyone, I’m very confused on all the parts I need to replace my ball joints I’m also a little confused which ones I’m trying to replace. I always hear that the lower ball joints commonly fail on 3rd gen 4Runners. I bought one a year ago and have slowly replaced things and done maintenance to it but the ball joints im at a loss for. I found some on oemgenuineparts.com part number 43340-39465 but I’m curious if I buy that I will then also need to buy multiple bolts or seals or whatever.
Basically I’m wondering if I buy that part with its correlating other side if everything I need to replace it will come with it. Also wondering how the control arms tie into that because I’ve heard you might as well replace those too while you’re in there but I have no idea which ones to get.
I appreciate any help, I know only as much as I’ve already replaced which is not much. Thanks guys.
Hi everyone, I’m very confused on all the parts I need to replace my ball joints I’m also a little confused which ones I’m trying to replace. I always hear that the lower ball joints commonly fail on 3rd gen 4Runners. I bought one a year ago and have slowly replaced things and done maintenance to it but the ball joints im at a loss for. I found some on oemgenuineparts.com part number 43340-39465 but I’m curious if I buy that I will then also need to buy multiple bolts or seals or whatever.
Basically I’m wondering if I buy that part with its correlating other side if everything I need to replace it will come with it. Also wondering how the control arms tie into that because I’ve heard you might as well replace those too while you’re in there but I have no idea which ones to get.
I appreciate any help, I know only as much as I’ve already replaced which is not much. Thanks guys.
Devbot
New member
No, fuses exist as a failsafe. They don't just pull those numbers out of a hat, it's what the circuit can handle - in fact fuses are typically rated for double the expected load. Permitting higher voltage than that can cause all sorts of things to fry, short out and even catch fire. That's usually a guaranteed way to melt wires at the very least.
Can you get away with it? Possibly, you wouldn't be the first to have this idea by any means and sometimes it's worked fine for people in, some instances. Sometimes permanently, sometimes for a week at a time. But in the end it's also screwed over many more.
There's of course other factors to consider, and someone here might do the math and chime in that it's actually alright - but the general rule of thumb is downsizing fuses is fine, going bigger is never a good idea.
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gomezdanny6921
New member
So do you know if there is anyways I can still get my halo lights to work if I can’t tap both unit to my corner lgihts without them causing a blown 10 every time
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Devbot
New member
I don't, sorry man
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Front Tract Width?
As new zero miles maybe free full tank of gas. I'm wondering how current tract width differ's from stock width.
OE tract width same F to R? Current Suspension width is narrower than rear solid axle.
Toyota have this info stashed some dark corner I haven't looked?
As new zero miles maybe free full tank of gas. I'm wondering how current tract width differ's from stock width.
OE tract width same F to R? Current Suspension width is narrower than rear solid axle.
Toyota have this info stashed some dark corner I haven't looked?
gh25_
Member
Fake OEM Knock sensors?
Hey guys, recently got around to tearing into my 3rd gen for the much needed valve cover gaskets. Unfortunately the second reason why is it also sprang a coolant leak from the front most passenger side coolant channel. That means I had to take all the manifolds off down to that so I can replace the old leaky gaskets. After I took it all apart I realized I should probably replace a few other things while I'm down here just to get it out of the way. So since the knock sensors are right there where I need to fix my coolant leak I decided to buy some new ones to replace those old ones since I am not aware if they were ever replaced or not. I am 19 with a limited budget so if I could prevent having to spend 300+ dollars on OEM knock sensors I definitely would. (AKA I am broke). So I ended up buying a "OEM" pair on eBay (yeah I know). They got here today and I opened the package and took a look at them and I thought something is off. I am just wondering if anyone can confirm if these are actually real OEM Denso sensors or just some knock offs that have the Denso stamped on them. I mean they look kinda legit. I know that usually when you get cheap non OEM sensors they tend to fail pre maturely is what it sounds like and I am not trying to tear I all the way down again just for those sensors because they were cheapo fakes.
Here is the link: NEW GENUINE TOYOTA DENSO KNOCK SENSORS FOR 1993-2006 Lexus & Toyota, 89615-12090 | eBay
Without looking too close they seem legit. I got them in the Genuine Toyota parts box too but I am really just not sure. I compared them to the ones that were on my truck and they seem quite different too, the ones I just bought are taller and they don't have little valleys on the points of the hex. I am not sure, I mean it's possible denso changed the look of the knock sensor a little bit since 20+ years ago when they were making them.
If anyone can confirm these are fake or real or if I should even use them I would appreciate it lol. In hindsight I should have just bit the bullet and bought OEM and have the piece of mind. The ebay seller has good reviews and he is located here in California not far from me. They seemed legit on the ebay page, I have bought OEM toyota stuff before too for a good price like that on ebay and it was legit.
Here's a link to some pictures so you know what I am talking about.
The one on the left is the one old from my truck and the one on the right is the new one(s) I just bought. Hopefully this link works:
Album — Postimages
Hey guys, recently got around to tearing into my 3rd gen for the much needed valve cover gaskets. Unfortunately the second reason why is it also sprang a coolant leak from the front most passenger side coolant channel. That means I had to take all the manifolds off down to that so I can replace the old leaky gaskets. After I took it all apart I realized I should probably replace a few other things while I'm down here just to get it out of the way. So since the knock sensors are right there where I need to fix my coolant leak I decided to buy some new ones to replace those old ones since I am not aware if they were ever replaced or not. I am 19 with a limited budget so if I could prevent having to spend 300+ dollars on OEM knock sensors I definitely would. (AKA I am broke). So I ended up buying a "OEM" pair on eBay (yeah I know). They got here today and I opened the package and took a look at them and I thought something is off. I am just wondering if anyone can confirm if these are actually real OEM Denso sensors or just some knock offs that have the Denso stamped on them. I mean they look kinda legit. I know that usually when you get cheap non OEM sensors they tend to fail pre maturely is what it sounds like and I am not trying to tear I all the way down again just for those sensors because they were cheapo fakes.
Here is the link: NEW GENUINE TOYOTA DENSO KNOCK SENSORS FOR 1993-2006 Lexus & Toyota, 89615-12090 | eBay
Without looking too close they seem legit. I got them in the Genuine Toyota parts box too but I am really just not sure. I compared them to the ones that were on my truck and they seem quite different too, the ones I just bought are taller and they don't have little valleys on the points of the hex. I am not sure, I mean it's possible denso changed the look of the knock sensor a little bit since 20+ years ago when they were making them.
If anyone can confirm these are fake or real or if I should even use them I would appreciate it lol. In hindsight I should have just bit the bullet and bought OEM and have the piece of mind. The ebay seller has good reviews and he is located here in California not far from me. They seemed legit on the ebay page, I have bought OEM toyota stuff before too for a good price like that on ebay and it was legit.
Here's a link to some pictures so you know what I am talking about.
The one on the left is the one old from my truck and the one on the right is the new one(s) I just bought. Hopefully this link works:
Album — Postimages
They look legit to me. Whenever I buy stuff from eBay or other more sketchy websites I’ll also look up the part number on Toyotas website and see if everything matches up and they look about the same to me. You could always put them on and hope and pray, if it doesn’t work then you’ll know buy once, cry once is true lol
gh25_
Member
Adding something
Oops, one thing I also forgot to mention is that the ones I just bought they don't' have any numbers / letters on the side like the ones that came off my truck do. Not sure if that has any significance though. I looked up pictures of what a supposed OEM one is and I saw it has the lettering. Anyways
- GH
Oops, one thing I also forgot to mention is that the ones I just bought they don't' have any numbers / letters on the side like the ones that came off my truck do. Not sure if that has any significance though. I looked up pictures of what a supposed OEM one is and I saw it has the lettering. Anyways
- GH
gh25_
Member
Hey there.
There are only a few ball joints on the front of a 3rd gen. Your Lower ball joint, upper ball joint, and tie rod. Lower Ball joints are the real important one that fails and have failed on too many peoples rigs to count. I don't think the upper ball joint is at necessary since the upper control arm sees much less load than the lower. Doing your upper ball joint isn't a bad idea but the lower ball joint is one you have to do, unless your cruising for a bruising.
I just did both of my lower ball joints L/R recently as it was one of the first things I have done since I bought my truck. There is only a few parts you will be replacing if you so choose along with your LBJ's. The castle nut that is underneath the LBJ you will be replacing and you should also replace your tie rod castle nut if you choose. Another part I would recommend you replace too are the four 14mm bolts that screw the LBJ into the hub itself. As for the control arms, which one do you mean? There is a lower and upper. Usually you do your upper control arm for better performance and not really for maintenance sake. You can replace your full lower control arm but that is a lot more involved than just replacing the lower ball joints. When I did mine I accidently mushroomed the threads on my tie rod so I ended up getting L/R tie rods too which I could recommend if they have never bee replaced. I believe OEM tie rods are only about 65 bucks? Honestly it's up to how through you want to be. Just replacing your lower ball joints and tie rods is a good place to start, and you'll be good for a long while. In the future you can also replace your upper ball joint but replacing it requires a press to get the old one out and the new one in, the LBJ and tie rods are much easier and use regular tools to replace them. I am not sure how you plan to build your truck or if you go off-roading but if your going to get bigger tires and a lift you can think about knocking out two birds with one stone if you get aftermarket upper control arms (for off roading and stuff). That is what I plan on doing since I haven't replaced mine yet. I'll have the upgraded UCA's with a fresh upper ball joint in it.
For the lower ball joints I think everyone who will talk to you will tell you to buy OEM. Aftermarket brands have been known to fail again pre maturely. OEM is not really that expensive so I think it's worth the piece of mind, unless you want to replace them every oil change lol. For the lower ball joints I got the "recall" kit from Toyota which is supposedly supposed to be beefier / remedy the issue of them failing catastrophically.
Here are all the Toyota part numbers you'll need for the stuff:
Lower ball joint Left & Right kit #04005-02235
LBJ Castle nut (need 2) #90171-A0005
14MM flanged bolt (need 8) #90080-10066
Driver side (Left) Outer tie rod #45047-39215
Passenger side (right) Outer tie rod #45046-39335
Tie rod castle nuts (need 2) (tie rods might come with them but I wouldn't trust they would) #90171-14042
The only thing I am missing are replacement cotter pins for the castle nuts but you could probably go to any hardware store by you and find some 1/8th" cotter pins.
Hope this helped.
Devbot
New member
Well if you're young and on a limited budget you probably shouldn't be replacing parts for the hell of it and opening yourself up to a can of worms, especially without any prior research. Just a bit of advice... Take it from someone who had a knock sensor gremlin and spent maybe $1000 trying to chase it. It is far from a cheap job to do over and over again
Boxes don't matter. Anybody can pay a few bucks to have counterfeit packaging produced or find shady dealership employees selling excess stock online. That's why you never buy "genuine" parts off ebay
Toyota used two different sensors. Matsushiita and Denso brand. Best case scenario you've bought Matsus and if your car had Densos from the factory, you're VERY likely to start throwing codes now. Toyota originally used Matsus then later switched due to poor quality
The long and skinny of it is knock sensor circuit is very sensitive to the waveform they put out, and Matsus put out a wave that is ALLLL over the place and extremely messy, even when brand new. Denso has a much, MUCH more consistent wave that is almost identical every time and exactly what the ECU wants to see - if the ECU isn't receiving a near perfect signal it assumes the sensors are faulty. An example of this waveform is somewhere in the FSM and you can check it by hooking up the sensors to a cheap oscilloscope
If your car came with Matsus you can use either or, but not the other way around. If you had Densos, you will almost certainly need Denso sensors. If I remember right they have varying part numbers, I'd have to go back and check my KS thread to see. Like you said, Densos are stubbier, have branding on them and are different colored
Be careful not to pinch your knock sensor harness between the manifolds, or else you'll be doing it all over again, which is VERY easy to do since Toyota didn't allocate a lick of room for it. Again, ask me how I know... I did it twice :frusty:
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