I think it's 12 quarts total, but if you do a drain and fill by pulling the transmission pan drain plug it's only 4 quarts at a time. There's a few different methods for flushing the transmission fluid or you can do a series of drain and fills with some driving in between each one. Drain and fills won't get all the old fluid out, but if you do 4 or 5 of them there won't be much old fluid left mixed in there.I❤️4runners;3810986 said:
The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
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MCgrease08
New member
I don't know for sure, but I would imagine it would be able to accept a fob. My '97 SR5 only came with one physical key when I bought it. I actually called a mobile automotive locksmith yesterday to ask about getting two new fobs and he seemed confident that he can do it.
ETA: Actually, I just double checked the owner's manual and it looks like my '97 doesn't have the RS3000 module and never came with the FOB. Gues I'd better call the locksmith back.
hwell:
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Hi all,
I’m doing my very favorite task of troubleshooting electronics issues, this one involving my brake lights. Steps taken so far:
P: HMSL light stays on
S: Replaced plastic cushion between brake light switch and pedal
P: All brake lights stay off
S: Replaced brake light switch
P: HMSL works normally, lower brake lights stay on
S: Stare blankly
Pretty sure this is an ability issue on my end. The brake light switch is cheap, best I could get on short notice. I can order an OEM part and return the crappy switch, but I’d like to do more troubleshooting while I wait. Any direction would be appreciated. If this is a bad place for this question I’d be happy to move it. Thank y’all!
I’m doing my very favorite task of troubleshooting electronics issues, this one involving my brake lights. Steps taken so far:
P: HMSL light stays on
S: Replaced plastic cushion between brake light switch and pedal
P: All brake lights stay off
S: Replaced brake light switch
P: HMSL works normally, lower brake lights stay on
S: Stare blankly
Pretty sure this is an ability issue on my end. The brake light switch is cheap, best I could get on short notice. I can order an OEM part and return the crappy switch, but I’d like to do more troubleshooting while I wait. Any direction would be appreciated. If this is a bad place for this question I’d be happy to move it. Thank y’all!
fatherdoug
New member
I don't know for sure, but I would imagine it would be able to accept a fob. My '97 SR5 only came with one physical key when I bought it. I actually called a mobile automotive locksmith yesterday to ask about getting two new fobs and he seemed confident that he can do it.
ETA: Actually, I just double checked the owner's manual and it looks like my '97 doesn't have the RS3000 module and never came with the FOB. Gues I'd better call the locksmith back.
My '99 SR5(Bought in 2015) came with 2 factory key fobs - lock, unlock, rear window rolldown, and panic button.
gh25_
Member
Hard to close liftgate
Hey guys,
Lately I have been having some troubles closing my liftgate. I have to hold it and slam it pretty dang hard for it to actually close. I have seen others close their liftgates & they can just kinda let it come down and it the weight of the liftgate closes itself with ease. It's getting annoying since every time I open it I usually don't do it hard enough for it to close the first time and then I have to it again and close it. You have to kinda do it just right for it to close. I don't like the feel or the sound when I have to slam it, it's even worse with the liftgate window down too it rattles hard. Anyways. So my question is, since it's so hard to close what part would I probably need to replace? I'm guessing the latch would need replacing but I'm not 100% sure. Lmk what you guys think. I tried to lube it up too but it didn't really help
Thanks,
-GH
Hey guys,
Lately I have been having some troubles closing my liftgate. I have to hold it and slam it pretty dang hard for it to actually close. I have seen others close their liftgates & they can just kinda let it come down and it the weight of the liftgate closes itself with ease. It's getting annoying since every time I open it I usually don't do it hard enough for it to close the first time and then I have to it again and close it. You have to kinda do it just right for it to close. I don't like the feel or the sound when I have to slam it, it's even worse with the liftgate window down too it rattles hard. Anyways. So my question is, since it's so hard to close what part would I probably need to replace? I'm guessing the latch would need replacing but I'm not 100% sure. Lmk what you guys think. I tried to lube it up too but it didn't really help
Thanks,
-GH
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spartacus
Senior Member
I was looking at my friends 1999 4runner and she has a MASSIVE exhaust leak.
Between the Headers and the CAT Converter it is completely disconnected, is this a failed weld or is there a missing clamp?
Would you advise replacing the whole pipe or taking it to a muffler shop and rewelding?
Twisted Sid
Member
Weld broke. I'd try an exhaust shop first before replacing it
gh25_
Member
Just went out to my truck right now to try that. The strike plate uses counter sunk screws on the top of the plate so no matter how you move it it ends up being automatically centered by the counter sunk when you tighten it down, basically there is no way to adjust it the way your suggesting. The plate always goes back to the same position. The latch operates fine but it looks like the rubber is all worn off so not sure if that has anything to contribute to it. :banana:
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spartacus
Senior Member
Tighten the screws snug not overly tight and tap it with a rubber or plastic mallet.
gh25_
Member
ylwfshr_08
New member
High Idle Issues
Hey! I'm new to this forum, so I have to post here now. But, I'm 15, just purchased my first 4Runner 4x4 Limited, and I believe I may have high idle, I haven't been able to test it when warmed up yet, because it's not in a state to run as of now. But when I started the motor for the first time (In 75 degree weather) It wants to idle at 1250rpm. Is that normal? Or am I missing something here? Thanks for the help!
Hey! I'm new to this forum, so I have to post here now. But, I'm 15, just purchased my first 4Runner 4x4 Limited, and I believe I may have high idle, I haven't been able to test it when warmed up yet, because it's not in a state to run as of now. But when I started the motor for the first time (In 75 degree weather) It wants to idle at 1250rpm. Is that normal? Or am I missing something here? Thanks for the help!
spartacus
Senior Member
It's normal for it to idle high until it warms up.
FatherSonRunner
New member
Freedom Off-road coil overs?
Anyone have any experience with Freedom Off-road? They have adjustable coil overs for a great price. I know there are a number of folks using their UCA’s. Any advice would be great.
Anyone have any experience with Freedom Off-road? They have adjustable coil overs for a great price. I know there are a number of folks using their UCA’s. Any advice would be great.
Useatorquewrench
New member
Does anyone have a wiring harness for a 96, 4x4, AT, 6 cyl 3.4? Have had a disastrous month and am in urgent need of one. Thanks
3rd Gen w rust
I'm sorry I'm new here needing help. We just bought a used 3rd gen. Very cool...2001 only 144k miles but it has the rust underneath. It's crazy was so well taken care of in every other area but was from Illinois. We are from central texas and mechanics here aren't used to this and don't want to touch it. I hate to do this but we might need to just sell it to someone in another part of the country. Just want to break even on what we paid or close to it. Any suggestions on how to go about this?
I'm sorry I'm new here needing help. We just bought a used 3rd gen. Very cool...2001 only 144k miles but it has the rust underneath. It's crazy was so well taken care of in every other area but was from Illinois. We are from central texas and mechanics here aren't used to this and don't want to touch it. I hate to do this but we might need to just sell it to someone in another part of the country. Just want to break even on what we paid or close to it. Any suggestions on how to go about this?
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I just got new mounts and new suspension on a 3rd get 4wd SR5 last week. Ive always noticed a mild burning smell of old oil the past year or so. I noticed today that it started torquing when I shifted into reverse. I got under it today and saw lots of old trans fluid, some new, caked on where the engine and trans connect. As my wife shifted into reverse, I noticed that the transmission twists or torques and followed by a swirling sound. The noise stops when put into drive. Do y'all have any thoughts? My first thought was that's its low on trans fluid but it obviously has leaked out somehow. In the past almost 2 years that Ive had it, there have never been any oil stains in the driveway, Thanks in advance. Ive got videos and pics if it will help.
I just got new mounts and new suspension on a 3rd get 4wd SR5 last week. Ive always noticed a mild burning smell of old oil the past year or so. I noticed today that it started torquing when I shifted into reverse. I got under it today and saw lots of old trans fluid, some new, caked on where the engine and trans connect. As my wife shifted into reverse, I noticed that the transmission twists or torques and followed by a swirling sound. The noise stops when put into drive. Do y'all have any thoughts? My first thought was that's its low on trans fluid but it obviously has leaked out somehow. In the past almost 2 years that Ive had it, there have never been any oil stains in the driveway, Thanks in advance. Ive got videos and pics if it will help.
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Post pictures of the frame rust especially by the lower control arm mounts on the inside of the frame and the front/rear of the rear axle. The rust may not be as bad as you think.
spartacus
Senior Member
The transmission twistin could be the transmission mount going bad or loose. The noise could be the carrier bearings or you joints. The leak one place to check that others have remedied by replacing the orings, are the two bolts on the trans driver side, one a dummy plug and another for the speed sensor even though 4x4 with abs don't use it.
I second that. I have a little rot on both sides on the inside of the rear lower control arms but Im getting that addressed with Autorust technicians here in Rhode Island. They also manufacture replacement T caps that are vehicle specific
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