The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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bghawkins said:
I'm sorry I'm new here needing help. We just bought a used 3rd gen. Very cool...2001 only 144k miles but it has the rust underneath. It's crazy was so well taken care of in every other area but was from Illinois. We are from central texas and mechanics here aren't used to this and don't want to touch it. I hate to do this but we might need to just sell it to someone in another part of the country. Just want to break even on what we paid or close to it. Any suggestions on how to go about this?
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Bad Luck said:
Post pictures of the frame rust especially by the lower control arm mounts on the inside of the frame and the front/rear of the rear axle. The rust may not be as bad as you think.
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at84lp said:
I second that. I have a little rot on both sides on the inside of the rear lower control arms but Im getting that addressed with Autorust technicians here in Rhode Island. They also manufacture replacement T caps that are vehicle specific
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I third that. My guess is that the rust isn't nearly as bad as you think. My frame was swiss cheese in spots and I was able to get it repaired.

What are you looking for the mechanics to do? Are you worried about the condition of the frame, or just looking for stuff like suspension refresh? What are they telling you is the reason they don't want to work on it?

You may just need someone who can weld in patches. You don't need a mechanic to do that.
 
Near the passenger side rear tire, it is really bad. You can literally push your fingers up and it's soft. Took it to a new mechanic yesterday. He thinks needs to switch out entire frame. This kind of makes me nervous but I guess it can be done. The rest of the truck is in such good shape, i guess if we do this, we are good to go. I'm hoping he finds a frame already out of another truck because if he has to dis-assemble one, will cost so much more. Has anyone replaced entire frame and felt good about it? :)
The other option he said is just drive it another year or so till it gets too bad then just sell it for 3K for the engine. Ugh
 
MCgrease08 said:
I third that. My guess is that the rust isn't nearly as bad as you think. My frame was swiss cheese in spots and I was able to get it repaired.

What are you looking for the mechanics to do? Are you worried about the condition of the frame, or just looking for stuff like suspension refresh? What are they telling you is the reason they don't want to work on it?

You may just need someone who can weld in patches. You don't need a mechanic to do that.
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I just want SAFETY. It's for a 16 year old driver. I've taken it to 5-6 different shops and I don't know why they don't want to work on it. I think the rust thing is just so unfamiliar here that it isn't common for them. Or, maybe they're lazy. :)
 
Don’t know how far you may be from Houston, but Restoration Station might be able to offer some suggestions.

Never met them personally, but their rehab work seems on-the-beam.

I imagine there are Texans around the boards who might have suggestions depending on where you live, too
 
bghawkins said:
Near the passenger side rear tire, it is really bad. You can literally push your fingers up and it's soft. Took it to a new mechanic yesterday. He thinks needs to switch out entire frame. This kind of makes me nervous but I guess it can be done. The rest of the truck is in such good shape, i guess if we do this, we are good to go. I'm hoping he finds a frame already out of another truck because if he has to dis-assemble one, will cost so much more. Has anyone replaced entire frame and felt good about it? :)
The other option he said is just drive it another year or so till it gets too bad then just sell it for 3K for the engine. Ugh
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We can spitball until everyone is blue in the face, but without seeing pictures no one is going to be able to help determine a path forward. Some sections of the frame are known to rot and there are replacement frame sections that can be welded in.

You are likely getting told it's beyond repair because Texas generally doesn't have to deal with any rust repairs or really any rust beyond a few surface rust spots. I've worked in shops in the rust belt before moving back to Arkansas and what people here consider "dangerous" levels of rust are still quite solid by northern standards.
 
 
bghawkins said:
Ok here are some photos...so appreciate the help! The truck has been so well taken care of besides this!

These are all on the passenger side near muffler - that's the bad spot (for us Texans) ;)

Dropbox - IMG-7643.jpg - Simplify your life

Dropbox - IMG-7645.jpg - Simplify your life

Dropbox - IMG-7647.jpg - Simplify your life

Dropbox - IMG-7648.jpg - Simplify your life

Dropbox - IMG-7652 (1).jpg - Simplify your life

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/gopx...53-1.jpg?rlkey=eqjcky0ocjxlprjen86rqfwdj&dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/gopx...53-1.jpg?rlkey=eqjcky0ocjxlprjen86rqfwdj&dl=0
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Oh my lord have mercy on your frame...

I aint no expert but that feels like it's in need for a frame swap other than repair at this point. Seller spray painted over the rust to try to hide it
 
bghawkins said:
Ok here are some photos...so appreciate the help! The truck has been so well taken care of besides this!

These are all on the passenger side near muffler - that's the bad spot (for us Texans) ;)
Click to expand...

Hard to tell from the photos but that's 3 different spots in the frame?
 
Does anyone have a diagram/pictures or know of which electrical connections are for the transmission?

I’ve had a P0770 for ages and have tried other fixes to no avail and have read that dirty or broken connectors can lead to triggering the code.

Any advice?
 
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Bad Luck said:
Does anyone know of a quick way to determine if a 2000 SR5 came equipped with key fobs? The vehicle in question only came with 2 valet keys.
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Look for the "chirper". It's in the rear corner, passenger side of the engine compartment, on the inside of the fender. (Answer valid only for '99+ 3rd gens.)

s-l1600.jpg


78195d1356591306-remote-keyless-entry-9808d1147702060-pics-how-mute-beep-sound-keyless-entry-buzzer1-jpg
 
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SugarRhino said:
Don’t know how far you may be from Houston, but Restoration Station might be able to offer some suggestions.

Never met them personally, but their rehab work seems on-the-beam.

I imagine there are Texans around the boards who might have suggestions depending on where you live, too
Click to expand...

Dropped it at Restoration Station today! This place seems SOLID. He thinks he can fix us all up without a frame swop. Will keep you posted! Thanks for the recomendation!
 
I need a little help

So I’m 16 and I just got my first car, a 1998 4Runner limited 4x4. I’m not very experienced with cars but would like to learn a little bit. I tried to take a picture cause I’m not sure how to explain my problem but couldn’t figure out how to get pictures to work so I’ll do my best. I’m having trouble where the wire from the fuse box connects to the positive battery terminal. The piece that connects the fuse box wire to the terminal is bent so now the fuse box wire cannot slide in. I’m not sure what to do about this I’ve tried in every way I can think of to bend it back into shape but it won’t bend. I’m sure I can just buy one of these easily but I’m not sure what the part is called to buy it lol. Would love to hear some feedback!!
 
E-locker sensor

Hey there guys,

I recently pulled a e-locker rear end off this guys rolled 3rd gen so I can swap it over to my 1998 2WD. I've been taking notes / part #'s of things I want to replace. One of the things I want to replace is the sensor that sits on top of the 3rd member. It looks like a knock sensor for the engine. It's the switch / sensor that tells the computer that the e-locker if it is on or off. I asked my local Toyota dealer guy for the part number and he provided #84222-12010 saying that it is the right one I am looking for From what it seems like, the same switch is used also on the transfer case as the 4WD switch. I was going to just buy an aftermarket dorman switch since it's not a crucial part & it's easy to replace if it ends up being no good, so no need to shell 88 for an OEM one, yet.... My question is should I be fine just using the 4WD switch for my e locker. The switches look identical and they are both 2 prong switches.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-oe-solutions/dorman-oe-solutions-2-terminal-4-wheel-drive-switch/doe0/600554/v/a/7921/automotive-suv-1998-toyota-4runner
 

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gh25_ said:
Hey there guys,

I recently pulled a e-locker rear end off this guys rolled 3rd gen so I can swap it over to my 1998 2WD. I've been taking notes / part #'s of things I want to replace. One of the things I want to replace is the sensor that sits on top of the 3rd member. It looks like a knock sensor for the engine. It's the switch / sensor that tells the computer that the e-locker if it is on or off. I asked my local Toyota dealer guy for the part number and he provided #84222-12010 saying that it is the right one I am looking for From what it seems like, the same switch is used also on the transfer case as the 4WD switch. I was going to just buy an aftermarket dorman switch since it's not a crucial part & it's easy to replace if it ends up being no good, so no need to shell 88 for an OEM one, yet.... My question is should I be fine just using the 4WD switch for my e locker. The switches look identical and they are both 2 prong switches.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-oe-solutions/dorman-oe-solutions-2-terminal-4-wheel-drive-switch/doe0/600554/v/a/7921/automotive-suv-1998-toyota-4runner
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Should be fine if the plug matches.
 
Parts help w/ rear LCA

So i found bolt to replace rear LCA bolts Product ID: 90119-14069 but I cant seem to find it for the front bolt. Do they use the same size ? I want to keep parts from Toyota if I can rather than matching threads etc.. anyone have an answer?
 
iso rear wind deflector feet

2000. have the long panel with the cut out for the 3rd brake light. but have misplacced the "feet " that attaches it to the rear hatch, and all the screws.
tried looking up part numbers, no luck. only 2 wreckers within 300 miles and none have. Posted in the forsale buy section but no luck yet. Found the full set up for 65 plus shipping....which to alaska would not be cheap im betting...just need the feet and hardware

ideas ?
 
Currently shopping for heads for my 99 5vz.

Found some 2002 heads for sale. Supposedly the head gasket blew, he had the heads redone then at some point later he blew the crankshaft somehow.

Does anyone know if there's any difference between the 99 heads and the 2002?
 
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